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I have been able to test out this new oil catch can kit from Damond, and would like to show some feed back in here! For starters, an oil catch can is a MUST have on our cars! This is the kit to buy! Most kits that I have seen act as a go between, between the valve cover vent and air intake tube, well, those just wont work.

Here is a picture of the kit layed out when I first got it in the mail, and this is what to expect in your kit.



My initial though when I tool it out of he packaging "wow, this just feels like a quality piece". The can itself is powder coated black and bears a "DM" logo on it in an awesome gold color! The welds are flawless, and even the bracket is powder coated, making it feel like more that a piece of metal with holes drilled into it, feels like it came off an assembly line for a lack of a better way to explain it.

There are a few key features I want to point out that I believe put this kit far above the rest. The first, Ford factory connectors! That's right, this kit is "plug and play", there is no need to attach it to the engine with hose clamps, zip ties or any of that! Why is there zip ties and hose clamps in the kit you may now be asking, that's to clamp the hoses to the catch can itself, and the zip ties to lock down the lines so they are not just flopping around. The second feature is where it is mounted. Personally I think the mounting selection is genius! It is mounted using an existing bolt that holds the PCM bracket. This will put the can near the bottom of the car, which means two things, gravity works with the can not against, and will be easy to drain while doing an oil change, or anything under your car for that matter. With that said, the can has a high flow drain valve attached to the bottom to allow fast and simple draining! The third key feature is an inline check valve. I haven't seen one on any other kit. this means its a back up PCV valve more or less, making sure your boost pressure is not lost, and is also a fail safe for the factory PCV.

Below is a picture of where the can will mount. The black plastic box to the right of the catch can is the holder for your PCM.



Damond has done a lot of research and development with this kit, and use the actual PCV valve behind the intake manifold. This is where the most oil contamination will come from, and believe me, its a lot. When I took the throttle body off, the inside of the intake manifold was soaked! Oil was actually dripping from the throttle body. Here is a couple of pictures of the throttle body.





Depending on how handy you are with tools, installation should take you about an hour to an hour and a half. It's a small car with a tight engine bay so the working room is a little cramped. You will need to remove your throttle body to install this, I know, sounds scary right? Well its actually not, it's 4 8mm bolts at an electrical connector, wiggle it around a little bit and it will come our from the bottom of the car. Take my advice NOW, the instructions will tell you to disconnect the battery. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. As I said, its tight working space, and the throttle body is close to the starer and can be very easy to arc across the starter terminals with the throttle body. So do yourself a favor and disconnect the throttle body, will save you a headache in the long run!

I haven't had many miles on the car with this on, So i haven't seen how much oil is actually being collected. I will be sure to update soon with how well it is doing its job!

All in all, knowing the research, time and development that went into this product, and for the pure excellent craftsmanship you cant beat the price! Under $200 to prolong and protect your car that cost you $20k plus!

The guys at Damond are awesome, very friendly and knowledgeable. They were able to answer any question I threw at them while i was installing this to test it for them.

Seriously, if your planning to buy an oil catch can, spend the money on this! I promise you wont be disappointed.
 

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Informative review, and very nicely engineered OCC. Love the check valve.

I'm still trying to figure out whether a higher mounting point is more desirable than a lower mounting point, though. Seems like a higher mount would make condensing vapors more likely to do so and run back to sump.
 

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Cold and low
 

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Take my advice NOW, the instructions will tell you to disconnect the baZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzz
:saint:


*lol*

What should I disconnect? :crazy:

Thanks a lot for the review :D

Think i gonna buy this when i install the bigger turbo!

Thumps up!
 

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I have this installed now. after 15000 miles I decided to jump on the band wagon. Thank goodness i did because when I pulled manifold and saw my valve situation it was bad. My poor car. It could only compared to a person running a marathon and smoking a pack or more cigarettes a day. Lungs coated in thick black tar!

I too had oil dripping from throttle body and inside of manifold coated in thin layer of oil. I worked from my back while doing installing with ramps so absolutely no room to do most anything as described in instructions. Everything was difficult. It was also cold and dark outside so this could have compounded my situation.

First off, removing manifold was a must must must for me. I could be disillusioned but doing this made things so much easier to get to plus you get to see the oily mess on valves and why you are doing this. Start by disconnect bolt on upper clamp FMIC tubing from throttle body. Pull down rubber tubing and bend out of the way. Next is to disconnect electrical connection at this point. Good luck in getting this done from your back with car seven inches above you. Hold off like I did and disconnect later. Move on and take the 4 bolts out of throttle body from below. Do yourself another favor and just leave throttle B sitting there for now. Proceed to top of car and get ready to remove manifold. Loosen its 5 bolts, 1 air sensor bolt and sensor from front, 2 separate electrical connectors loose from back to free manifold movement, and detach PVC connection from back/bottom. At this point I just twisted manifold up and around onto top of engine up closer to windshield so I did not have to disconnect more wires and BS. Let it sit there. I then proceeded to clean my valves and then occ install. Once the manifold is out of the way lift out throttle body and disconnect connector as per instructions. Clean it off. From here follow the instructions and try to duplicate where the hoses run. It's a cluster fug in this area so good luck. On side note my valves where nasty, gunked up after 15,000 miles. Use carburetor cleaner and wire and bristle rifle cleaning accessories to remove some of the carbon liquid goo. Took many many hours of soaking, scrubbing, removing nasty soupy fluid but I think I was somewhat successful. Got it all back together and car runs so I'd call it a successful install.

This was just my approach and others may have better success in some areas but removing the manifold seemed to help me not beat my head into ground. Space is very limited in most of these areas. Here's to cleaner intake valves! Cheers
 

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Thanks for the review and info. I will be buying this product ASAP! I noticed Damond Motorsports has a coupon code active from November 28th to December 1st. Code: BlackCyberFST5.
 

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First off, removing manifold was a must must must for me. I could be disillusioned but doing this made things so much easier to get to plus you get to see the oily mess on valves and why you are doing this. ................................................
This was just my approach and others may have better success in some areas but removing the manifold seemed to help me not beat my head into ground. Space is very limited in most of these areas. Here's to cleaner intake valves! Cheers
Seriously good information. If anyone is looking for a good way to remove the IM and TB, check out the Steeda instructions for their TB spacer. Also a few good points from others in that thread for nuances regarding some of the clips. I installed my IM spacer and found it helpful and will do my TBspacer with new OCC.

Nice thing about a detailed install like yours and others is the overall perspective it provides in moving forward with a PITA install procedure.

Thanks again.
 

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I did mine today without removing throttle body. I just removed manifold bolts and got behind it. Pulling it off was a pita. The worst was installing the catch can. I did everything from up top and never dropped the bottom or raised the car. Quality looking piece for a good price.
 

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First I would like to thank the rest of the posters in this thread for the helpful tips. I would also like to thank unfitproduct for the top mount idea. Now that we have all the credits taken car of.

After some discussion with Matt, I also added their VTA option. Nifty little part even if it does look like an ST boat drink umbrella. Well here are some various shots of the install including mounting bracket. For the DYI it was made of 1.5" x 1.25" aluminum flat stock, clamp ring mounted to the bracket (threaded the hole in the flatstock and a neoprene compression tape between the OCC and clamp ring. It bolts directly to the IM right bottom bolt.

I have been asked before about the covers and I am still working on the next generation of mounting brackets using the stock pin posts to more readily accomodate various mods. As such, I am not posting anything else at this time relating to those.
 

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Gets my vote for most beautiful engine bay. Sweet... JP
 

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Ohhhmmmmgggg! I couldn't stop staring
 

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Oooooh! I'm glad it came out looking so fantastic!~
Congrats Double!! This is my first time seeing it finished, and I gotta say I like the style, Great work.
 

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From day one since i've joined this forum, I"ve always told folks to get a OCC (even showed pics) This little device will help your engine out in the long run! Make sure you drain it.
 

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i have 12k miles on my car and have taken off my charge pipes multiple times as well as intake and have never seen oil in there. i do have a jlt catch can on the intake side, but that rarely catches anything. time to get this can. i hate to see what my valves look like. should be interesting to see when i pull intake manifold..
 

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Has anyone actually looked at their intakes after install and see if these are actually stopping anything? I have seen ports and still show plenty of build up with OCCs. I have the can, just have not installed it as I dont think they are actually protecting against anything useful.

Also most of the build up from what I have seen if actually due to how these engines work, as they open the intake port to help get the exhaust gases out on the exhaust stroke. I am going on 25k miles and have zero performance issues, even right now with it being close to zero degrees out. No starting issues or anything and the car is not driven that hard during the week of back and forth to work, etc.
 

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Oil in the pipes where it should not be.
The car was 3,000 miles new before the OCC was installed, (same with the turbo)
That could be oil coming from the turbo, going off how that trail is, it looks like the oil is being blown in and then when engine is shut off, slowly drains back down.
 
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