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Discussion Starter #41
Update: I make awesome harnesses that make it so that you can get Sync 3 to work, plug and play! Feel free to to PM me for more details!



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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade with HD Radio & Sirius XM
 

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Anyone know where I can source just the Sync3 LCD screen? I've got a FiST sync3 unit with a 6" screen, and I also have a sync3 APIM from somewhere else. But no screen to try either of them... ebay is expensive for a screen alone, in the $500+ range.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Anyone know where I can source just the Sync3 LCD screen? I've got a FiST sync3 unit with a 6" screen, and I also have a sync3 APIM from somewhere else. But no screen to try either of them... ebay is expensive for a screen alone, in the $500+ range.
I sell screens for $350. I have one with a couple bubbles at the bottom (no difference in how well it works) that I'd let go for $250.


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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade with HD Radio & Sirius XM
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Anyone know where I can source just the Sync3 LCD screen? I've got a FiST sync3 unit with a 6" screen, and I also have a sync3 APIM from somewhere else. But no screen to try either of them... ebay is expensive for a screen alone, in the $500+ range.
Also, just fixed that screen so it looks a lot better. Still willing to take $100 off ($250 total) do you need the connector between the screen and APIM too?


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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade with HD Radio & Sirius XM
 

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I've been putting together bits and pieces of information from different sites, so to be honest i'm not 100% sure.

My car has the 5inch display so yeah more differences, I just noticed too that my 12pin connector does not have wires in pin 6 + 12.
So going by what I've read if you haven't tried forscan yet is to change the first 2 lines only in the APIM to your factory asbuilt settings and your camera might work.

I'm only learning as I go, still waiting for my parts to arrive.
Nice Work doing this mate, before this thread I was already in the planning stage for the same conversion.
Below is what I had figured out after going through some wiring diagrams.
where did you order your parts from? im new so im just learning as im going
 

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EDIT: This post has been heavily modified and updated to make it easier to find all of the necessary components, tips, & tricks to do this upgrade.

So for the past couple of weeks, I've been working out how to upgrade my 2017 Focus ST1 package to have the upgraded infotainment system, Sync 3.

I've decided to initially give out a re-wiring diagram/guide, which seems to be the most undocumented part of the entire conversion process. I purchased a full shop manual of just wiring diagrams in all 2017 Focus models and learned how to read it, for everyone's benefit. Over the past few days I've slaved over this book and figured out all of the differences in wiring between Sync 1 and Sync 3.

I present to you, my hard work, all in a spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gcnD6WD13f6KCUbdTTUSo0fGOTXCJtv5HmeemhjlwD8/edit?usp=sharing

Here's what you need to get started... I recommend having all of the below before even attempting this project.

PARTS NEEDED FOR SYNC 3 UPGRADE

  • Sync 3 Mounting Brackets (both the metal ones that attach to the screen, and plastic Sync 2 (MFT) or 3/ACM Bracket)
  • Wire Coathanger, unfolded and straightened (for taping and pushing new wires to various parts of the car)
TOOLS NEEDED FOR UPGRADE
Not all of the tools listed below are 100% required -- you could get away with doing the projects another way that may or may not increase the install time.

  • Wire Coathanger, unfolded and straightened (for taping and pushing new wires to various parts of the car)
  • Electrical Tape -- Get good 3M stuff from Home Depot
  • A Windows Laptop
Now for the fun part, tearing the car apart.

Installation Instrucations
PLEASE NOTE:These steps can be dangerous if not done correctly. I am not responsible for any damages you may cause to your car due to incorrect wiring or user error duing the installation process.

Step 1: Thoroughly go through my guide... note that at the bottom of the spreadsheet there are multiple tabs -- this is where you will find Wiring Diagrams and Programming Tips & Tricks: Ford Focus 2016+ Sync (ST1) to Sync 3 Guide

Step 2: Once you have all of the necessary parts ready, be sure to set aside the time to do this project. Plan for it to take a solid day, possibly longer including programming. Once you're ready, tear apart your dash and remove your Sync 1 system. There are lots of good YouTube videos on this just from guys who are re-doing their stereos.

Step 3: To remove your dash, pop off the trim around the center console shift area (starts on the side near the hvac panel and wraps around behind the shifter). You will find a T25 hex screw under the trim, near the shift knob. Remove this.

Step 4: Remove your shift knob by forcefully turning it counter clockwise. The knob and spring will pop out. Set the spring on your magnet tray and your shift knob in your cupholder for safe keeping.

Step 5: Next, use your trim tool to pry off the Passenger Airbag On/Off warning lamp (between the HVAC panel & the Media Panel). Do not pry from the bottom, pry from the top, left to right, to avoid breaking anything.

Step 6: Remove the four T25 Torx screws that are under the Passenger Airbag On/Off warning trim/light. These screws hold both the lower trim and upper trim in place. Some of these screws are directly visible, some are pointed up towards the Media Console faceplate. Place the screws in your magnet tray for safe keeping.

Step 7: Remove the T25 Torx screw that attaches the center console trim right behind the shift knob. Set this aside for safe keeping in your magnet tray. Next, use your trim removal tool to pry up on the entire shift trim area... this trim needs to be removed first. Once all clips are up, pull out the trim and unplug all connectors that are attached to it (HVAC, Traction Control, USB, 12V Power, etc). Set this trim aside.

Step 8: Pull up and out from the bottom of your current media console face plate in order to remove it. It will feel really difficult... but that's normal. Keep tugging and it will come off. Just double check to make sure you have ALL FOUR screws removed if you really can't get it to budge.

Step 9: Remove the Sync 1 APIM, ACM, & Screen screws. Save the screws in your magnet tray, you'll use them to put in the Sync 3 mounting hardware. These should all be held in by T25 screws... but the APIM may be mounted with hex, I can't recall.

Step 10: Move your 54 Pin APIM connector up to the top of the console area. You'll need to cut a few small zip ties back where the cable runs from. I recommend a small pair of long handled dykes to get the job done. This is a super important step so your APIM harness can reach the Sync 3 system.

Step 11: Once the APIM wiring harness is repositioned, start going to town on following my wiring diagram. ONLY DO ONE WIRE AT A TIME TO AVOID CONFUSION. There are multiple wires that have the same color and striping, so please please please do it this way. Soldering is the #1 recommended method, but I suppose you could use crimp connectors if you really wanted to. Skip placing in pins 8 & 38 during this process. We'll wire this up separately outside of the car to make our lives easier. Top tip: It's probably easier to do the repinning portion first, that way you know what spaces are empty that you need to fill with new pins and wiring. Print out the wiring diagram spreadsheet and cross things off as you go, or you'll get super confused. Also, when running the cables for the hazard switch, make them EXTRA long. these will need to go up behind the ACM and on top of it (between the APIM & ACM to reach the proper location on the trim.

Step 12: Once you are done soldering and rewiring, test your Screen and APIM. Just hand hold it and plug it in, then start the car. It should start up! (don't worry about PIN 8 & 38 yet).

Top tip: If it doesn't start up, chances are you're missing CANBUS lines (VMM13 & RMM13 are vital in getting it to turn on). If it doesn't work, check your wiring again... but it should work. Give it a minute to boot, sometimes APIMs that have been off for a while take a minute to boot up. Other things to check... make sure there is a wire passing between the apim and screen. This wire should have a blue connector and a yellow connector on it.

Step 13: Now that we know your screen works, it's time to replace your USB Hub. Go sit in the back seat of your car. Remove the back part of your center console, then use your fingers to pinch and push up on the clips that keep the original USB hub latched in. It should pop up. Pop out the USB cord that is a part of the old hub. This isn't necessary anymore.

Top tip: Go sit in the back seat of your car... remove the two screws on the inside of the center console lid first (they will be covered by two silver tabs. Pop off the back of the center console by forcefully pulling up and out from the small tray area that's there (do this from the back seat).

Step 14: Solder two 6 foot wires to the WPT-1239 Pigtail. Make one black and one white so you can tell the difference between ground and signal easily. on the other end of this, solder one APIM Pin/Wire to each wire. Top tip: See the pinouts of the WPT-1239 connector to see which you should solder a white cable onto and which you should solder a black cable onto.

Step 15: It's time to pull wires. With your straightened coat hanger, fold an inch section over to make a hook. Feed this from the back of the car, up through the front on the right side of the shifter. From there, electrical tape your new 6' Mini USB to Mini USB cable, along with the two wires (with the WPT-1239 connector on the end) you're running from the apim to the USB hub to the coat hanger, and pull the wire back through to the rear console. Leave a good extra 8" so you can work on plugging in the hub afterwards. Run the extra cable up into the area where the USB hub rests and plug in the hub to both power and the mini USB cable. DO NOT SEAT THE USB HUB IN IT'S HOLE YET.

Top tip: After pulling the wires, use zip ties to securely fasten these wires to the old wires running back there. This will make sure that the wires do get caught in the shift mechanism while you are driving.

Step 16: Finish running the two wires and USB cable up the back cavity of the center console. Place the signal cable (white) in Pin 8, and the ground cable (black) in Pin 38.

Step 17: Use your Torx screws to place the black plastic mount for the Sync 2/3 system on the mounting points (there are predrilled holes there!)

Top tip: There's a portion that looks like a hook on the plastic bracket... that goes on the bottom.

Step 18: Hold your hazard switch harness and connector up, then grab your ACM (CD Player), connect it all back up, then rest it in place while you route your Hazard switch harness. The two white nubs on the back of the cd player should rest in the hooks on the bottom of the plastic mounting bracket. Run the hazard switch connector over the top of the acm, but under the black plastic bracket... there's a small half circle channel that's provided as a channel for the cable to passthrough. Utilize it!

Top tip: Double check that everything is working before screwing it back together. Hazard lights should work nomatter what... don't worry if your volume control and stuff doesn't work off the bat... usually takes programming to get it to work right.

Step 19: Plug in your APIM, Fakra GPS, & the 6' USB cord you ran from the back of the car (plug it into the BLACK USB socket). The APIM should slide into place. Before screwing anything together, turn on the car and make sure Sync 3 boots up... double check the USB connection in the back by plugging in a USB stick or Phone. If USB doesn't work at first try switching which port the USB cable is plugged INTO ON THE USB HUB IN THE CONSOLE. One port is input, one port is output as a passthrough. If neither port works, Pop out the Sync 3 screen and APIM and double check the that USB port didn't pop out when sliding the screen and APIM into place. Repeat the USB hub port trick if it still doesn't work. At this point you should have a working hub. If it works, pop the hub into place in the center console compartment, then repace the back cover/trim that's in the back seat. Don't forget to screw it back into place from the inside of the compartment.

Top tip: Again, double check your work and make sure that there are no abnormalities when putting the car back together. Make sure your senses are heightened and you can smell if something is burning or doesn't seem right. The chances of something happening are super slim as long as you follow this guide to a T, but always be safe, nomatter what.

Step 20: Use the Torx screws from the 4.2" screen mount to attach the APIM/Screen & ACM to the plastic mounting bracket. This should be 6 screws. Starting at step 8, go in reverse order to put the car back together.

Programming Instructions
PLEASE NOTE:These steps can be dangerous if not done correctly. Make sure you back everything up before making any changes. I am not responsible for any damages you may cause to your car through programming changes.

Please view the tab "Sync 3 Hex Settings" along with "ACM - Audio Control Module" to see hex values inside of my spreadsheet guide.

Step 1: Buy a Focus compatible OBDII reader... Here's the one I use from Amazon

Step 2: Download ForScan (pc only -- don't get it for Android) -- Get a free ForScan license: Download ForScan Here

Step 3: Connect to your car in ForScan -- Start with the switch on MS CANBUS, then when prompted, switch it to HS CANBUS... this allows ForScan to read every module in your car.

Step 4: Once connected to your car, click the thing that looks like a Computer Processor on the lefthand side... this will allow you to see and edit the hexidecimal values of every module in your car.

Step 5: We are only going to go into and adjusting the APIM and ACM settings. DO NOT GO INTO ANY OTHER MODULES. To enter the APIM Module configuration, highlight "APIM (Asbuilt)" in the list, then click the blue Play button in the bottom left hand corner of the application.

Step 6: Firstly back up your initial configuration by clicking "Save All" under all of the Hex values. Save this file in a folder marked as your car's initial config -- for mine I made a folder called "Orig Focus ST Config" and named the file "Orig Config.xml"

Step 7: Now is the part where we experiment, because it really depends on what modules you've installed in your car (Sirius Enabled ACM, Nav Enabled APIM, etc). The best thing you can do is find a vehicle that is spec'd as similarly to yours as possible and copy the AsBuilt data from its VIN. For example, if you have a Sync 3 APIM with Nav, copy the VIN of a Focus ST ST3 package. If you don't have nav, copy the VIN from an ST2 package. Go to the Ford AsBuilt data website and paste in that VIN to get the real hexidecimal data that is coded onto that car. It's important that we only change the values within the APIM and ACM. Put the ForScan window and the AsBuilt data window next to each other so you can cross reference the data. Copy over the lines from the AsBuilt data to ForScan (make sure that the programming lines are EXACTLY the same when doing this). By that I mean make sure that 7D0-01-01 on the Ford AsBuilt data is copied to 7D0-01-01 in ForScan. Once you copy each relevant line from the AsBuilt data, click "Write All." This should write without any faults.

Step 8: During writing, the APIM will restart. ForScan will tell you to shut off your vehicle. Turn off the vehicle and open the door (to make sure that the APIM module fully shuts off). Wait 5-10 seconds, then start your car and reconnect to ForScan. This will be a majority of your time spent programming.

Step 9: Test what works and what doesn't. Most likely most things will work (steering wheel controls, auto dimming, etc.). Save this setup by clicking "Save All" and putting the file in a New folder for your new programming. Name the file something like "New Programming-No Volume Working" or something that describes what is and isn't working. This will help you go back to a step that you know what works and doesn't work if you mess up and make it so that more things don't work.

Step 10: The main issue with copying the AsBuilt from an ST2 or ST3 and using it in an ST1 is the fact that there's no DSP or Amp module in the back of the car. Totally fine, just go the the "Sync 3 Hex Settings" tab in this spreadsheet. These settings are from a Ford Explorer, but APIM settings are very similar between all models. To fix the DSP/Amp issue, we need to make the APIM stop looking for it... See this part of my guide. Once you figure out how to change that, Write All. It may give you an error, it's giving you this because the HEX checksum is wrong (last two digits of the line). This is okay... clicking continue will have ForScan calculate the proper checksum. Shutdown your car, open the door, wait 10 seconds, start the car. Test and Save a Backup as necessary.

Step 11: If you kept your ST1 ACM (cd player) you don't have Sirius, so make sure that it doesn't display in the APIM sources. See this line of my guide for more information. Once you figure out how to change that, Write All. It may give you an error, it's giving you this because the HEX checksum is wrong (last two digits of the line). This is okay... clicking continue will have ForScan calculate the proper checksup. Shutdown your car, open the door, wait 10 seconds, start the car. Test and Save a Backup as necessary.

Step 12: If you put a Sony ST2 or ST3 ACM in your car, you'll need to program your ACM to output right right signals. To do this, just go to the ACM Configuration and follow the programming changes from the ACM tab of this spreadsheet. You'll want to do the following... change the Sound Output Options to "00 - Regular Speakers" ... also while you're in here, it's a good opportunity to change your Audio Equalizer to give you more bass response. Change this hex value to "0" for better bass response. Write the changes, shutdown your car, open the door, wait 10 seconds, and start the car again.

Step 13: I can't tell you exactly how to program your APIM because there are so many different ways that you could have your car configured. I suggest reading through the "Sync 3 Hex Settings" tab in this spreadsheet and comparing what your car has and doesn't have and program your car according to that.

In the near future I will be updating this thread with photos & a video of the upgrade process. Hopefully what I have now has been helpful for you!

If you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to reach out!
this information is great, thank you for putting so much time into this! im fairly new here but its a very general question but i'm curious because i don't know if i should really do it myself .. but how long did this process take?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I make harnesses and give out my .abt files for easy programming. You can do it for cheap if you find the parts yourself. I also have a kit with everything you need for $1k or $1200 with Nav and Sync 3.4

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I sent you a PM. I need a harness

I make harnesses and give out my .abt files for easy programming. You can do it for cheap if you find the parts yourself. I also have a kit with everything you need for $1k or $1200 with Nav and Sync 3.4

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I have done the retrofit and have the programming 95% of the way done but I have two issues I can't figure out.

• I can't here the voice command chimes or it's voice
•climate control lights stay on regardless of ambient light or headlight status

Can anyone give me some advice on what I'm missing here? The climate control isn't a big deal but the chimes/voice feedback is annoying
 

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Did anyone else notice that the google document just got deleted? I was reading it a few days ago, but when I got on to print it all out today it was gone.
 

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Hi everyone and happy new year for all
I’am from France and i would like to upgrade my 2012 c max basic system ( i am not sure it’s sync) i have a 5 inch navigation screen with voice control but the module behind the glove box looks like a Bluetooth one rather then a sync module even though it has 54 pins connecteur and an usb plug so please if someone can help do that
Kind regards.
 

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I make harnesses and give out my .abt files for easy programming. You can do it for cheap if you find the parts yourself. I also have a kit with everything you need for $1k or $1200 with Nav and Sync 3.4

Sent from my ONEPLUS 6 using Tapatalk
You still around brian?
 

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EDIT: This post has been heavily modified and updated to make it easier to find all of the necessary components, tips, & tricks to do this upgrade.

So for the past couple of weeks, I've been working out how to upgrade my 2017 Focus ST1 package to have the upgraded infotainment system, Sync 3.

I've decided to initially give out a re-wiring diagram/guide, which seems to be the most undocumented part of the entire conversion process. I purchased a full shop manual of just wiring diagrams in all 2017 Focus models and learned how to read it, for everyone's benefit. Over the past few days I've slaved over this book and figured out all of the differences in wiring between Sync 1 and Sync 3.

I present to you, my hard work, all in a spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gcnD6WD13f6KCUbdTTUSo0fGOTXCJtv5HmeemhjlwD8/edit?usp=sharing

Here's what you need to get started... I recommend having all of the below before even attempting this project.

PARTS NEEDED FOR SYNC 3 UPGRADE

  • Sync 3 Mounting Brackets (both the metal ones that attach to the screen, and plastic Sync 2 (MFT) or 3/ACM Bracket)
  • Wire Coathanger, unfolded and straightened (for taping and pushing new wires to various parts of the car)
TOOLS NEEDED FOR UPGRADE
Not all of the tools listed below are 100% required -- you could get away with doing the projects another way that may or may not increase the install time.

  • Wire Coathanger, unfolded and straightened (for taping and pushing new wires to various parts of the car)
  • Electrical Tape -- Get good 3M stuff from Home Depot
  • A Windows Laptop
Now for the fun part, tearing the car apart.

Installation Instrucations
PLEASE NOTE:These steps can be dangerous if not done correctly. I am not responsible for any damages you may cause to your car due to incorrect wiring or user error duing the installation process.

Step 1: Thoroughly go through my guide... note that at the bottom of the spreadsheet there are multiple tabs -- this is where you will find Wiring Diagrams and Programming Tips & Tricks: Ford Focus 2016+ Sync (ST1) to Sync 3 Guide

Step 2: Once you have all of the necessary parts ready, be sure to set aside the time to do this project. Plan for it to take a solid day, possibly longer including programming. Once you're ready, tear apart your dash and remove your Sync 1 system. There are lots of good YouTube videos on this just from guys who are re-doing their stereos.

Step 3: To remove your dash, pop off the trim around the center console shift area (starts on the side near the hvac panel and wraps around behind the shifter). You will find a T25 hex screw under the trim, near the shift knob. Remove this.

Step 4: Remove your shift knob by forcefully turning it counter clockwise. The knob and spring will pop out. Set the spring on your magnet tray and your shift knob in your cupholder for safe keeping.

Step 5: Next, use your trim tool to pry off the Passenger Airbag On/Off warning lamp (between the HVAC panel & the Media Panel). Do not pry from the bottom, pry from the top, left to right, to avoid breaking anything.

Step 6: Remove the four T25 Torx screws that are under the Passenger Airbag On/Off warning trim/light. These screws hold both the lower trim and upper trim in place. Some of these screws are directly visible, some are pointed up towards the Media Console faceplate. Place the screws in your magnet tray for safe keeping.

Step 7: Remove the T25 Torx screw that attaches the center console trim right behind the shift knob. Set this aside for safe keeping in your magnet tray. Next, use your trim removal tool to pry up on the entire shift trim area... this trim needs to be removed first. Once all clips are up, pull out the trim and unplug all connectors that are attached to it (HVAC, Traction Control, USB, 12V Power, etc). Set this trim aside.

Step 8: Pull up and out from the bottom of your current media console face plate in order to remove it. It will feel really difficult... but that's normal. Keep tugging and it will come off. Just double check to make sure you have ALL FOUR screws removed if you really can't get it to budge.

Step 9: Remove the Sync 1 APIM, ACM, & Screen screws. Save the screws in your magnet tray, you'll use them to put in the Sync 3 mounting hardware. These should all be held in by T25 screws... but the APIM may be mounted with hex, I can't recall.

Step 10: Move your 54 Pin APIM connector up to the top of the console area. You'll need to cut a few small zip ties back where the cable runs from. I recommend a small pair of long handled dykes to get the job done. This is a super important step so your APIM harness can reach the Sync 3 system.

Step 11: Once the APIM wiring harness is repositioned, start going to town on following my wiring diagram. ONLY DO ONE WIRE AT A TIME TO AVOID CONFUSION. There are multiple wires that have the same color and striping, so please please please do it this way. Soldering is the #1 recommended method, but I suppose you could use crimp connectors if you really wanted to. Skip placing in pins 8 & 38 during this process. We'll wire this up separately outside of the car to make our lives easier. Top tip: It's probably easier to do the repinning portion first, that way you know what spaces are empty that you need to fill with new pins and wiring. Print out the wiring diagram spreadsheet and cross things off as you go, or you'll get super confused. Also, when running the cables for the hazard switch, make them EXTRA long. these will need to go up behind the ACM and on top of it (between the APIM & ACM to reach the proper location on the trim.

Step 12: Once you are done soldering and rewiring, test your Screen and APIM. Just hand hold it and plug it in, then start the car. It should start up! (don't worry about PIN 8 & 38 yet).

Top tip: If it doesn't start up, chances are you're missing CANBUS lines (VMM13 & RMM13 are vital in getting it to turn on). If it doesn't work, check your wiring again... but it should work. Give it a minute to boot, sometimes APIMs that have been off for a while take a minute to boot up. Other things to check... make sure there is a wire passing between the apim and screen. This wire should have a blue connector and a yellow connector on it.

Step 13: Now that we know your screen works, it's time to replace your USB Hub. Go sit in the back seat of your car. Remove the back part of your center console, then use your fingers to pinch and push up on the clips that keep the original USB hub latched in. It should pop up. Pop out the USB cord that is a part of the old hub. This isn't necessary anymore.

Top tip: Go sit in the back seat of your car... remove the two screws on the inside of the center console lid first (they will be covered by two silver tabs. Pop off the back of the center console by forcefully pulling up and out from the small tray area that's there (do this from the back seat).

Step 14: Solder two 6 foot wires to the WPT-1239 Pigtail. Make one black and one white so you can tell the difference between ground and signal easily. on the other end of this, solder one APIM Pin/Wire to each wire. Top tip: See the pinouts of the WPT-1239 connector to see which you should solder a white cable onto and which you should solder a black cable onto.

Step 15: It's time to pull wires. With your straightened coat hanger, fold an inch section over to make a hook. Feed this from the back of the car, up through the front on the right side of the shifter. From there, electrical tape your new 6' Mini USB to Mini USB cable, along with the two wires (with the WPT-1239 connector on the end) you're running from the apim to the USB hub to the coat hanger, and pull the wire back through to the rear console. Leave a good extra 8" so you can work on plugging in the hub afterwards. Run the extra cable up into the area where the USB hub rests and plug in the hub to both power and the mini USB cable. DO NOT SEAT THE USB HUB IN IT'S HOLE YET.

Sfat: După ce trageți firele, folosiți legături cu fermoar pentru a fixa în siguranță aceste fire pe firele vechi care merg acolo. Acest lucru vă va asigura că firele nu vor fi prinse în mecanismul de schimbare în timpul deplasării.

Pasul 16: Finalizați rularea celor două fire și cablul USB în sus în cavitatea din spate a consolei centrale. Plasați cablul de semnal (alb) în Pin 8, iar cablul de masă (negru) în Pin 38.

Pasul 17: Folosiți șuruburile Torx pentru a plasa suportul de plastic negru pentru sistemul Sync 2/3 pe punctele de montare (există găuri predilectate acolo!)

Sfat: este o porțiune care arată ca un cârlig pe suportul de plastic ... care merge pe partea de jos.

Pasul 18: Țineți fasciculul și conectorul comutatorului de pericol, apoi apucați ACM-ul (CD Player), conectați-l înapoi, apoi lăsați-l la loc în timp ce rotați hamul comutatorului Hazard. Cele două bucăți albe din spatele CD player-ului trebuie să se sprijine în cârligele de pe partea inferioară a suportului de montare din plastic. Rulați conectorul comutatorului de pericol peste partea superioară a acm-ului, dar sub suportul de plastic negru ... există un canal de semicerc mic, care este furnizat ca un canal pentru trecerea prin cablu. Folosește-l!

Sfat: Verificați dublul dacă totul funcționează înainte de a înșuruba împreună. Luminile de pericol ar trebui să funcționeze în mod normal, ceea ce ... nu vă faceți griji dacă controlul volumului și lucrurile nu funcționează ... de obicei, este nevoie de programare pentru a merge corect.

Pasul 19: Conectați-vă APIM-ul, GPS-ul Fakra și cablul USB de 6 'pe care l-ați rulat din spatele mașinii (conectați-l la priza USB NEGRU). APIM ar trebui să alunece în loc. Înainte de a înșuruba nimic, porniți mașina și asigurați-vă că Sync 3 se lansează ... verificați dublă conexiunea USB din spate prin conectarea unui stick USB sau a unui telefon. Dacă USB nu funcționează la început, încercați să comutați ce port este conectat cablul USB ÎN PE HUB USB ÎN CONSOLE. Un port este de intrare, un port este ieșit ca passthrough. Dacă niciun port nu funcționează, scoateți ecranul Sync 3 și APIM și verificați dublu dacă portul USB nu a apărut când glisați ecranul și APIM în loc. Repetați trucul portului hub USB dacă încă nu funcționează. În acest moment ar trebui să aveți un hub de lucru. Dacă funcționează, deschideți butonul în locul în compartimentul consolei centrale, apoi reparați capacul / ornamentul din spate care se află în bancheta din spate. Nu uitați să o înșurubați din nou în loc din interiorul compartimentului.

Sfat: din nou, verificați-vă de două ori munca și asigurați-vă că nu există anomalii atunci când puneți mașina din nou laolaltă. Asigurați-vă că simțurile vă sunt crescute și puteți mirosi dacă ceva arde sau nu vi se pare corect. Șansele să se întâmple ceva sunt foarte slabe atâta timp cât urmați acest ghid către un T, dar fiți întotdeauna în siguranță, mai bine.

Pasul 20: Folosiți șuruburile Torx de pe ecranul de 4,2 "pentru a atașa APIM / Screen & ACM la suportul de montare din plastic. Acesta ar trebui să fie șuruburi 6. Începând cu pasul 8, mergeți în sens invers pentru a pune mașina la loc.

Instrucțiuni de programare
VĂ RUGĂM NOTĂ: Acești pași pot fi periculoși dacă nu sunt făcuți corect. Asigurați-vă că recuperați totul înainte de a efectua modificări. Nu sunt responsabil pentru daunele pe care le-ați putea provoca mașinii dvs. prin modificări de programare.

Vă rugăm să vizualizați fila „Sincronizarea 3 Hex Setări” împreună cu „ACM - Modul de control audio” pentru a vedea valorile hex în interiorul ghidului meu de calcul .

Pasul 1: Cumpărați un cititor OBDII compatibil Focus ... Iată cel pe care îl folosesc de la Amazon

Pasul 2: Descărcați ForScan (doar PC - nu-l primiți pentru Android) - Obțineți o licență ForScan gratuită: Descărcați ForScan aici

Pasul 3: Conectați-vă la mașina dvs. în ForScan - Începeți cu comutatorul de pe MS CANBUS, apoi, atunci când vi se solicită, treceți-l pe HS CANBUS ... acest lucru permite lui ForScan să citească fiecare modul din mașină.

Pasul 4: Odată conectat la mașina dvs., faceți clic pe lucrul care arată ca un procesor de computer în partea stângă ... acest lucru vă va permite să vedeți și să editați valorile hexidecimale ale fiecărui modul din mașina dvs.

Pasul 5: Vom intra și să reglăm setările APIM și ACM. NU INTRATI NICI ALTE MODULURI. Pentru a intra în configurația modulului APIM, evidențiați „APIM (Asbuilt)” din listă, apoi faceți clic pe butonul albastru Redare din colțul din stânga jos al aplicației.

Pasul 6: În primul rând, faceți o copie de siguranță a configurației inițiale, făcând clic pe „Salvați toate” sub toate valorile Hex. Salvați acest fișier într-un folder marcat ca configurație inițială a mașinii dvs. - pentru al meu am realizat un folder numit „Orig Focus ST Config” și numit fișierul „Orig Config.xml”

Pasul 7: Acum este partea în care experimentăm, deoarece depinde cu adevărat de modulele pe care le-ați instalat în mașina dvs. (Sirius Enabled ACM, Nav Enabled APIM, etc). Cel mai bun lucru pe care îl puteți face este să găsiți un vehicul care este specificat la fel de mult cu al dvs. posibil și să copiați datele AsBuilt din VIN. De exemplu, dacă aveți un APIM Sync 3 cu Nav, copiați VIN-ul unui pachet Focus ST ST3. Dacă nu aveți nav, copiați VIN-ul dintr-un pachet ST2. Accesați site-ul de date Ford AsBuiltși lipiți în acel VIN pentru a obține datele hexidecimale reale care sunt codate pe mașina respectivă. Este important să schimbăm doar valorile din APIM și ACM. Puneți fereastra ForScan și fereastra de date AsBuilt unul lângă altul, astfel încât să puteți încrucița datele de referință. Copiați peste liniile din datele AsBuilt în ForScan (asigurați-vă că liniile de programare sunt exact aceleași atunci când faceți acest lucru). Prin asta mă refer la asigurarea faptului că datele 7D0-01-01 de pe Ford AsBuilt sunt copiate în 7D0-01-01 în ForScan. După ce copiați fiecare linie relevantă din datele AsBuilt, faceți clic pe „Scrieți toate”. Acest lucru ar trebui să scrie fără greșeli.

Pasul 8: În timpul scrierii, APIM se va reporni. ForScan vă va spune să opriți vehiculul. Opriți vehiculul și deschideți ușa (pentru a vă asigura că modulul APIM se închide complet). Așteptați 5-10 secunde, apoi porniți mașina și reconectați-vă la ForScan. Aceasta va fi majoritatea timpului dvs. petrecut în programare.

Pasul 9: Testează ce funcționează și ce nu. Cel mai probabil, majoritatea lucrurilor vor funcționa (comenzile volanului, întunecarea automată etc.). Salvați această configurare făcând clic pe „Salvați toate” și introduceți fișierul într-un folder nou pentru noua dvs. programare. Numește fișierul ceva de genul „Programare nouă, fără volum de lucru” sau ceva care descrie ce este și nu funcționează. Acest lucru vă va ajuta să reveniți la un pas în care știți ce funcționează și nu funcționează dacă vă încurcați și faceți astfel încât să nu funcționeze mai multe lucruri.

Pasul 10: Problema principală cu copierea AsBuilt dintr-un ST2 sau ST3 și utilizarea acestuia într-un ST1 este faptul că nu există niciun modul DSP sau Amp în spatele mașinii. Total bine, trebuie doar să mergeți fila „Setări sincronizate 3 hex” din această foaie de calcul. Aceste setări sunt de la un Ford Explorer, dar setările APIM sunt foarte similare între toate modelele. Pentru a remedia problema DSP / Amp, trebuie să facem ca APIM să nu mai caute ... Vezi această parte a ghidului meu. După ce îți dai seama cum poți schimba asta, scrie totul. Este posibil să vă producă o eroare, vă dă acest lucru deoarece suma de control HEX este greșită (ultimele două cifre ale liniei). Acest lucru este în regulă ... făcând clic pe continuare va avea ForScan să calculeze controlul corespunzător. Opriți mașina, deschideți ușa, așteptați 10 secunde, porniți mașina. Testați și salvați o copie de rezervă, dacă este necesar.

Pasul 11: Dacă ați păstrat ACM-ul ST1 (CD player) nu aveți Sirius, asigurați-vă că nu se afișează în sursele APIM. Vedeți această linie a ghidului meu pentru mai multe informații. După ce îți dai seama cum poți schimba asta, scrie totul. Este posibil să vă producă o eroare, vă dă acest lucru deoarece suma de control HEX este greșită (ultimele două cifre ale liniei). Acest lucru este în regulă ... făcând clic pe continuare va avea ForScan să calculeze verificarea corespunzătoare. Opriți mașina, deschideți ușa, așteptați 10 secunde, porniți mașina. Testați și salvați o copie de rezervă, dacă este necesar.

Pasul 12: Dacă introduceți un ACM Sony ST2 sau ST3 în mașină, va trebui să vă programați ACM pentru a emite semnale corecte. Pentru a face acest lucru, trebuie doar să accesați configurația ACM și să urmați modificările de programare din fila ACM a acestei foi de calcul. Veți dori să faceți următoarele: schimbați opțiunile de ieșire a sunetului în „00 - Difuzoare obișnuite” ... de asemenea, în timp ce sunteți aici, este o ocazie bună de a schimba egalizatorul audio pentru a vă oferi un răspuns mai mic. Modificați această valoare hexagonală în „0” pentru un răspuns mai bun la bas. Scrieți modificările, opriți mașina, deschideți ușa, așteptați 10 secunde și porniți din nou mașina.

Pasul 13: Nu vă pot spune exact cum să vă programați APIM, deoarece există atât de multe moduri diferite de a putea configura mașina. Vă sugerez să citiți fila „Setări sincronizate 3 hex” din această foaie de calcul și să comparați ceea ce are și nu are mașina dvs. și să vă programați mașina în funcție de aceasta.

În viitorul apropiat voi actualiza acest thread cu fotografii și un videoclip al procesului de actualizare. Sper că ceea ce am acum v-a fost de folos!

Dacă aveți întrebări sau sugestii, nu ezitați să vă adresați!
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