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Discussion Starter #41
Update: I make awesome harnesses that make it so that you can get Sync 3 to work, plug and play! Feel free to to PM me for more details!



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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade with HD Radio & Sirius XM
 

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Anyone know where I can source just the Sync3 LCD screen? I've got a FiST sync3 unit with a 6" screen, and I also have a sync3 APIM from somewhere else. But no screen to try either of them... ebay is expensive for a screen alone, in the $500+ range.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Anyone know where I can source just the Sync3 LCD screen? I've got a FiST sync3 unit with a 6" screen, and I also have a sync3 APIM from somewhere else. But no screen to try either of them... ebay is expensive for a screen alone, in the $500+ range.
I sell screens for $350. I have one with a couple bubbles at the bottom (no difference in how well it works) that I'd let go for $250.


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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade with HD Radio & Sirius XM
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Anyone know where I can source just the Sync3 LCD screen? I've got a FiST sync3 unit with a 6" screen, and I also have a sync3 APIM from somewhere else. But no screen to try either of them... ebay is expensive for a screen alone, in the $500+ range.
Also, just fixed that screen so it looks a lot better. Still willing to take $100 off ($250 total) do you need the connector between the screen and APIM too?


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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade with HD Radio & Sirius XM
 

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I've been putting together bits and pieces of information from different sites, so to be honest i'm not 100% sure.

My car has the 5inch display so yeah more differences, I just noticed too that my 12pin connector does not have wires in pin 6 + 12.
So going by what I've read if you haven't tried forscan yet is to change the first 2 lines only in the APIM to your factory asbuilt settings and your camera might work.

I'm only learning as I go, still waiting for my parts to arrive.
Nice Work doing this mate, before this thread I was already in the planning stage for the same conversion.
Below is what I had figured out after going through some wiring diagrams.
where did you order your parts from? im new so im just learning as im going
 

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EDIT: This post has been heavily modified and updated to make it easier to find all of the necessary components, tips, & tricks to do this upgrade.

So for the past couple of weeks, I've been working out how to upgrade my 2017 Focus ST1 package to have the upgraded infotainment system, Sync 3.

I've decided to initially give out a re-wiring diagram/guide, which seems to be the most undocumented part of the entire conversion process. I purchased a full shop manual of just wiring diagrams in all 2017 Focus models and learned how to read it, for everyone's benefit. Over the past few days I've slaved over this book and figured out all of the differences in wiring between Sync 1 and Sync 3.

I present to you, my hard work, all in a spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gcnD6WD13f6KCUbdTTUSo0fGOTXCJtv5HmeemhjlwD8/edit?usp=sharing

Here's what you need to get started... I recommend having all of the below before even attempting this project.

PARTS NEEDED FOR SYNC 3 UPGRADE

  • Sync 3 Mounting Brackets (both the metal ones that attach to the screen, and plastic Sync 2 (MFT) or 3/ACM Bracket)
  • Wire Coathanger, unfolded and straightened (for taping and pushing new wires to various parts of the car)
TOOLS NEEDED FOR UPGRADE
Not all of the tools listed below are 100% required -- you could get away with doing the projects another way that may or may not increase the install time.

  • Wire Coathanger, unfolded and straightened (for taping and pushing new wires to various parts of the car)
  • Electrical Tape -- Get good 3M stuff from Home Depot
  • A Windows Laptop
Now for the fun part, tearing the car apart.

Installation Instrucations
PLEASE NOTE:These steps can be dangerous if not done correctly. I am not responsible for any damages you may cause to your car due to incorrect wiring or user error duing the installation process.

Step 1: Thoroughly go through my guide... note that at the bottom of the spreadsheet there are multiple tabs -- this is where you will find Wiring Diagrams and Programming Tips & Tricks: Ford Focus 2016+ Sync (ST1) to Sync 3 Guide

Step 2: Once you have all of the necessary parts ready, be sure to set aside the time to do this project. Plan for it to take a solid day, possibly longer including programming. Once you're ready, tear apart your dash and remove your Sync 1 system. There are lots of good YouTube videos on this just from guys who are re-doing their stereos.

Step 3: To remove your dash, pop off the trim around the center console shift area (starts on the side near the hvac panel and wraps around behind the shifter). You will find a T25 hex screw under the trim, near the shift knob. Remove this.

Step 4: Remove your shift knob by forcefully turning it counter clockwise. The knob and spring will pop out. Set the spring on your magnet tray and your shift knob in your cupholder for safe keeping.

Step 5: Next, use your trim tool to pry off the Passenger Airbag On/Off warning lamp (between the HVAC panel & the Media Panel). Do not pry from the bottom, pry from the top, left to right, to avoid breaking anything.

Step 6: Remove the four T25 Torx screws that are under the Passenger Airbag On/Off warning trim/light. These screws hold both the lower trim and upper trim in place. Some of these screws are directly visible, some are pointed up towards the Media Console faceplate. Place the screws in your magnet tray for safe keeping.

Step 7: Remove the T25 Torx screw that attaches the center console trim right behind the shift knob. Set this aside for safe keeping in your magnet tray. Next, use your trim removal tool to pry up on the entire shift trim area... this trim needs to be removed first. Once all clips are up, pull out the trim and unplug all connectors that are attached to it (HVAC, Traction Control, USB, 12V Power, etc). Set this trim aside.

Step 8: Pull up and out from the bottom of your current media console face plate in order to remove it. It will feel really difficult... but that's normal. Keep tugging and it will come off. Just double check to make sure you have ALL FOUR screws removed if you really can't get it to budge.

Step 9: Remove the Sync 1 APIM, ACM, & Screen screws. Save the screws in your magnet tray, you'll use them to put in the Sync 3 mounting hardware. These should all be held in by T25 screws... but the APIM may be mounted with hex, I can't recall.

Step 10: Move your 54 Pin APIM connector up to the top of the console area. You'll need to cut a few small zip ties back where the cable runs from. I recommend a small pair of long handled dykes to get the job done. This is a super important step so your APIM harness can reach the Sync 3 system.

Step 11: Once the APIM wiring harness is repositioned, start going to town on following my wiring diagram. ONLY DO ONE WIRE AT A TIME TO AVOID CONFUSION. There are multiple wires that have the same color and striping, so please please please do it this way. Soldering is the #1 recommended method, but I suppose you could use crimp connectors if you really wanted to. Skip placing in pins 8 & 38 during this process. We'll wire this up separately outside of the car to make our lives easier. Top tip: It's probably easier to do the repinning portion first, that way you know what spaces are empty that you need to fill with new pins and wiring. Print out the wiring diagram spreadsheet and cross things off as you go, or you'll get super confused. Also, when running the cables for the hazard switch, make them EXTRA long. these will need to go up behind the ACM and on top of it (between the APIM & ACM to reach the proper location on the trim.

Step 12: Once you are done soldering and rewiring, test your Screen and APIM. Just hand hold it and plug it in, then start the car. It should start up! (don't worry about PIN 8 & 38 yet).

Top tip: If it doesn't start up, chances are you're missing CANBUS lines (VMM13 & RMM13 are vital in getting it to turn on). If it doesn't work, check your wiring again... but it should work. Give it a minute to boot, sometimes APIMs that have been off for a while take a minute to boot up. Other things to check... make sure there is a wire passing between the apim and screen. This wire should have a blue connector and a yellow connector on it.

Step 13: Now that we know your screen works, it's time to replace your USB Hub. Go sit in the back seat of your car. Remove the back part of your center console, then use your fingers to pinch and push up on the clips that keep the original USB hub latched in. It should pop up. Pop out the USB cord that is a part of the old hub. This isn't necessary anymore.

Top tip: Go sit in the back seat of your car... remove the two screws on the inside of the center console lid first (they will be covered by two silver tabs. Pop off the back of the center console by forcefully pulling up and out from the small tray area that's there (do this from the back seat).

Step 14: Solder two 6 foot wires to the WPT-1239 Pigtail. Make one black and one white so you can tell the difference between ground and signal easily. on the other end of this, solder one APIM Pin/Wire to each wire. Top tip: See the pinouts of the WPT-1239 connector to see which you should solder a white cable onto and which you should solder a black cable onto.

Step 15: It's time to pull wires. With your straightened coat hanger, fold an inch section over to make a hook. Feed this from the back of the car, up through the front on the right side of the shifter. From there, electrical tape your new 6' Mini USB to Mini USB cable, along with the two wires (with the WPT-1239 connector on the end) you're running from the apim to the USB hub to the coat hanger, and pull the wire back through to the rear console. Leave a good extra 8" so you can work on plugging in the hub afterwards. Run the extra cable up into the area where the USB hub rests and plug in the hub to both power and the mini USB cable. DO NOT SEAT THE USB HUB IN IT'S HOLE YET.

Top tip: After pulling the wires, use zip ties to securely fasten these wires to the old wires running back there. This will make sure that the wires do get caught in the shift mechanism while you are driving.

Step 16: Finish running the two wires and USB cable up the back cavity of the center console. Place the signal cable (white) in Pin 8, and the ground cable (black) in Pin 38.

Step 17: Use your Torx screws to place the black plastic mount for the Sync 2/3 system on the mounting points (there are predrilled holes there!)

Top tip: There's a portion that looks like a hook on the plastic bracket... that goes on the bottom.

Step 18: Hold your hazard switch harness and connector up, then grab your ACM (CD Player), connect it all back up, then rest it in place while you route your Hazard switch harness. The two white nubs on the back of the cd player should rest in the hooks on the bottom of the plastic mounting bracket. Run the hazard switch connector over the top of the acm, but under the black plastic bracket... there's a small half circle channel that's provided as a channel for the cable to passthrough. Utilize it!

Top tip: Double check that everything is working before screwing it back together. Hazard lights should work nomatter what... don't worry if your volume control and stuff doesn't work off the bat... usually takes programming to get it to work right.

Step 19: Plug in your APIM, Fakra GPS, & the 6' USB cord you ran from the back of the car (plug it into the BLACK USB socket). The APIM should slide into place. Before screwing anything together, turn on the car and make sure Sync 3 boots up... double check the USB connection in the back by plugging in a USB stick or Phone. If USB doesn't work at first try switching which port the USB cable is plugged INTO ON THE USB HUB IN THE CONSOLE. One port is input, one port is output as a passthrough. If neither port works, Pop out the Sync 3 screen and APIM and double check the that USB port didn't pop out when sliding the screen and APIM into place. Repeat the USB hub port trick if it still doesn't work. At this point you should have a working hub. If it works, pop the hub into place in the center console compartment, then repace the back cover/trim that's in the back seat. Don't forget to screw it back into place from the inside of the compartment.

Top tip: Again, double check your work and make sure that there are no abnormalities when putting the car back together. Make sure your senses are heightened and you can smell if something is burning or doesn't seem right. The chances of something happening are super slim as long as you follow this guide to a T, but always be safe, nomatter what.

Step 20: Use the Torx screws from the 4.2" screen mount to attach the APIM/Screen & ACM to the plastic mounting bracket. This should be 6 screws. Starting at step 8, go in reverse order to put the car back together.

Programming Instructions
PLEASE NOTE:These steps can be dangerous if not done correctly. Make sure you back everything up before making any changes. I am not responsible for any damages you may cause to your car through programming changes.

Please view the tab "Sync 3 Hex Settings" along with "ACM - Audio Control Module" to see hex values inside of my spreadsheet guide.

Step 1: Buy a Focus compatible OBDII reader... Here's the one I use from Amazon

Step 2: Download ForScan (pc only -- don't get it for Android) -- Get a free ForScan license: Download ForScan Here

Step 3: Connect to your car in ForScan -- Start with the switch on MS CANBUS, then when prompted, switch it to HS CANBUS... this allows ForScan to read every module in your car.

Step 4: Once connected to your car, click the thing that looks like a Computer Processor on the lefthand side... this will allow you to see and edit the hexidecimal values of every module in your car.

Step 5: We are only going to go into and adjusting the APIM and ACM settings. DO NOT GO INTO ANY OTHER MODULES. To enter the APIM Module configuration, highlight "APIM (Asbuilt)" in the list, then click the blue Play button in the bottom left hand corner of the application.

Step 6: Firstly back up your initial configuration by clicking "Save All" under all of the Hex values. Save this file in a folder marked as your car's initial config -- for mine I made a folder called "Orig Focus ST Config" and named the file "Orig Config.xml"

Step 7: Now is the part where we experiment, because it really depends on what modules you've installed in your car (Sirius Enabled ACM, Nav Enabled APIM, etc). The best thing you can do is find a vehicle that is spec'd as similarly to yours as possible and copy the AsBuilt data from its VIN. For example, if you have a Sync 3 APIM with Nav, copy the VIN of a Focus ST ST3 package. If you don't have nav, copy the VIN from an ST2 package. Go to the Ford AsBuilt data website and paste in that VIN to get the real hexidecimal data that is coded onto that car. It's important that we only change the values within the APIM and ACM. Put the ForScan window and the AsBuilt data window next to each other so you can cross reference the data. Copy over the lines from the AsBuilt data to ForScan (make sure that the programming lines are EXACTLY the same when doing this). By that I mean make sure that 7D0-01-01 on the Ford AsBuilt data is copied to 7D0-01-01 in ForScan. Once you copy each relevant line from the AsBuilt data, click "Write All." This should write without any faults.

Step 8: During writing, the APIM will restart. ForScan will tell you to shut off your vehicle. Turn off the vehicle and open the door (to make sure that the APIM module fully shuts off). Wait 5-10 seconds, then start your car and reconnect to ForScan. This will be a majority of your time spent programming.

Step 9: Test what works and what doesn't. Most likely most things will work (steering wheel controls, auto dimming, etc.). Save this setup by clicking "Save All" and putting the file in a New folder for your new programming. Name the file something like "New Programming-No Volume Working" or something that describes what is and isn't working. This will help you go back to a step that you know what works and doesn't work if you mess up and make it so that more things don't work.

Step 10: The main issue with copying the AsBuilt from an ST2 or ST3 and using it in an ST1 is the fact that there's no DSP or Amp module in the back of the car. Totally fine, just go the the "Sync 3 Hex Settings" tab in this spreadsheet. These settings are from a Ford Explorer, but APIM settings are very similar between all models. To fix the DSP/Amp issue, we need to make the APIM stop looking for it... See this part of my guide. Once you figure out how to change that, Write All. It may give you an error, it's giving you this because the HEX checksum is wrong (last two digits of the line). This is okay... clicking continue will have ForScan calculate the proper checksum. Shutdown your car, open the door, wait 10 seconds, start the car. Test and Save a Backup as necessary.

Step 11: If you kept your ST1 ACM (cd player) you don't have Sirius, so make sure that it doesn't display in the APIM sources. See this line of my guide for more information. Once you figure out how to change that, Write All. It may give you an error, it's giving you this because the HEX checksum is wrong (last two digits of the line). This is okay... clicking continue will have ForScan calculate the proper checksup. Shutdown your car, open the door, wait 10 seconds, start the car. Test and Save a Backup as necessary.

Step 12: If you put a Sony ST2 or ST3 ACM in your car, you'll need to program your ACM to output right right signals. To do this, just go to the ACM Configuration and follow the programming changes from the ACM tab of this spreadsheet. You'll want to do the following... change the Sound Output Options to "00 - Regular Speakers" ... also while you're in here, it's a good opportunity to change your Audio Equalizer to give you more bass response. Change this hex value to "0" for better bass response. Write the changes, shutdown your car, open the door, wait 10 seconds, and start the car again.

Step 13: I can't tell you exactly how to program your APIM because there are so many different ways that you could have your car configured. I suggest reading through the "Sync 3 Hex Settings" tab in this spreadsheet and comparing what your car has and doesn't have and program your car according to that.

In the near future I will be updating this thread with photos & a video of the upgrade process. Hopefully what I have now has been helpful for you!

If you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to reach out!
this information is great, thank you for putting so much time into this! im fairly new here but its a very general question but i'm curious because i don't know if i should really do it myself .. but how long did this process take?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I make harnesses and give out my .abt files for easy programming. You can do it for cheap if you find the parts yourself. I also have a kit with everything you need for $1k or $1200 with Nav and Sync 3.4

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I sent you a PM. I need a harness

I make harnesses and give out my .abt files for easy programming. You can do it for cheap if you find the parts yourself. I also have a kit with everything you need for $1k or $1200 with Nav and Sync 3.4

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I have done the retrofit and have the programming 95% of the way done but I have two issues I can't figure out.

• I can't here the voice command chimes or it's voice
•climate control lights stay on regardless of ambient light or headlight status

Can anyone give me some advice on what I'm missing here? The climate control isn't a big deal but the chimes/voice feedback is annoying
 
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