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Discussion Starter #21
Dear god I want to punch something right now. Running into a few last issues, not sure if I need to flash something differently or what.

Yesterday, I was able to get Android Auto working, but only after plugging in a USB stick with the Sync 3 update on it. I shut my car off after the update and it stopped working. I plugged it in again, "updated" again, and then Android Auto started working again... continue the cyle once the car was shut off... didn't really bother me since it would do the update process within a few minutes...

So today, I decide that I want to lay a little rubber on the road. Android Auto is on and working just fine. I rev up to 3000 and let her rip... the car almost hits redline, android auto shuts off, and goes to the regular sync system. Weird. I think, no big deal, I'll just try to update the system again... the system. won't. update. I have no idea what's wrong or why this is happening. I've tried doing a master reset, but that didn't work.

If anyone has any suggestions on what I can do now... I'm all ears :crying:
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Just a loose cable



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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade
 

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Another Update
I was able to modify my factory usb cable to fit the Sync 3 APIM by adding the extra groves the newer plug has, No Carplay through the original hub (and no Android phones to test)
Happy still as I can now play FLAC files on usb :)

I also have updated the firmware on my IPC to the newer F1ET facelift type to see if I could get rid of the bright blue screen on opening the doors, It worked (after alot of headaches) I gained the digital speedo but lost the parking sensor sounds, still have the sensor display in reverse but no parking lines. I have been told if I upgrade my BCM it should work...

So for now I'm just going to leave it how it is, my next task is to convert the ACM to line out but it seems I get no 727-**-** lines in forscan to edit the module.
Thinking of maybe buying another module from a Mondeo(Australian Fusion) and see what happens
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Another Update
I was able to modify my factory usb cable to fit the Sync 3 APIM by adding the extra groves the newer plug has, No Carplay through the original hub (and no Android phones to test)
Happy still as I can now play FLAC files on usb :)

I also have updated the firmware on my IPC to the newer F1ET facelift type to see if I could get rid of the bright blue screen on opening the doors, It worked (after alot of headaches) I gained the digital speedo but lost the parking sensor sounds, still have the sensor display in reverse but no parking lines. I have been told if I upgrade my BCM it should work...

So for now I'm just going to leave it how it is, my next task is to convert the ACM to line out but it seems I get no 727-**-** lines in forscan to edit the module.
Thinking of maybe buying another module from a Mondeo(Australian Fusion) and see what happens
I finally got everything working. The most important thing to know is that if you're on Sync 3 v3 you NEED the new hub, no exceptions to get Android Auto OR Apple Carplay to work. I found that crap out after I ordered and installed a brand new APIM because I thought the one I had was fried -_- Turns out just my brain is fried.
 

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I have been following your build closely and have attempted it myself on my 2017 SE. I am almost finished, my only issue now is getting Android Auto to work on the front USB port (next to shifter). Where did you plug the front port USB cable into? I got a mini USB male to mini USB female adapter to plug the front port into the new center console usb hub, but I am not sure if the new cable is working properly. Android Auto looks like it wants to start up but fails. If I plug my phone straight into the center console usb hub, android auto starts immediately. I have checked all the cable connections and they seem fine. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yeah that won't work. You can only get it to work with the rear USB port that's been swapped to the updated hub (with the + & - wires running from the sync system).
I have been following your build closely and have attempted it myself on my 2017 SE. I am almost finished, my only issue now is getting Android Auto to work on the front USB port (next to shifter). Where did you plug the front port USB cable into? I got a mini USB male to mini USB female adapter to plug the front port into the new center console usb hub, but I am not sure if the new cable is working properly. Android Auto looks like it wants to start up but fails. If I plug my phone straight into the center console usb hub, android auto starts immediately. I have checked all the cable connections and they seem fine. Any suggestions?
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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade
 

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Yeah that won't work. You can only get it to work with the rear USB port that's been swapped to the updated hub (with the + & - wires running from the sync system).

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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade
You are going to think I am crazy but I got Android Auto working from the front (dash) usb port! So that mini USB male to mini USB female cable I got from amazon was crap.

I ended up making my own cable from the leftover usb cables I pulled from Sync 1. My car had a black usb cable and grey usb cable plugged into the Sync 1 module. The black cable went to the dash usb port, and the gray one went to the center console arm rest usb port. The gray one was actually a two sided mini usb cable connected to a female mini usb to regular usb cable going to the center console. I used the female mini usb cable, cut the regular usb end off, cut the grey mini usb off the other cable and soldered that onto the female mini usb cable. Once I got it back together, I was getting android auto working, but only for 5-10 mins. I would get a communications error 12 on my phone. So I did some google research and figured out that I need a Usb 3.1 gen2 type c to regular usb cable for android auto to properly work. So I went down to walmart and got one for $7. I stress tested it for over 5 hours straight with uber driver and waze running and was still able to charge my phone. I would call this a success! I think the only issues that I have left is not being able to hear a sync voice, and getting phone calls to come through the speakers. Probably just forscan stuff though. But yeah, everything else works! Thank you so much for your guide!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Oh dude! I was actually thinking of trying that, but with how many damn times I had my dash apart I just couldn't give two ****s about it anymore haha. I just run a Gen2 cable from out of my center console and leave my phone in my cupholder.

For the phone call stuff look at ForScan programming... Under the APIM change it to stop looking for the Sony sound processor (first digit of line 7D0-01-01 should be the number "2", not "A").

Also go into the ACM and change line 727-01-01. It will probably be programmed to something like **A0-****-****. Change the 3rd and 4th digits to 0 so it'll be **00-****-****.

That should get calling working. Check the programming part of my guide for more details.

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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Alright, another uncalled for update. I was thinking to myself yesterday... you know what? I just replaced ALL my speakers with Infinity Primus (same ones from the popular upgrade)... I couldn't help but notice they lacked bass and range, even when pushing up the EQ. I decided (after a month of listening like that and an instant stroke of genius) to go into ForScan again... this time I changed the 2nd digit of 727-01-02 on the ACM... so x*xx. On my configuration this was set to 3. I changed it to 0 (the same as most of the highest end cars are programmed). This immediately gave me MUCH more bass response and even better treble! Hopefully this helps anyone that's run into this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hey @Superb think you might be able to give a fellow Australian a hand with his Sync 3 conversion? Seeing as how I don't know the wiring differences are on the Australian model. This is the pic he sent me of what car he has. I'll see about getting him in this thread.


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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Glad to hear it! Let me know if you have any issues along the way... I think I ran into just about all of them so I'd be happy to help
Stopping in to say that this project has convinced me to go this route. I appreciate all of the work that's gone into this.
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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade
 

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Discussion Starter #34
@Duece McCracken any possibility of getting this thread re-labelled to "A Guide on Replacing ST1 Sync with Sync 3" ?

I'd also love to see this get stickied in the Guides part of this forum! I put a ton of time and research into figuring this out (80+ hours) and I'd love for everyone to have this resource if they're interested in doing the upgrade. I'm doing a bunch of updates to my initial post to reflect the entire process of replacing Sync with Sync 3.

Let me know, thank you!
 

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@Duece McCracken any possibility of getting this thread re-labelled to "A Guide on Replacing ST1 Sync with Sync 3" ?

I'd also love to see this get stickied in the Guides part of this forum! I put a ton of time and research into figuring this out (80+ hours) and I'd love for everyone to have this resource if they're interested in doing the upgrade. I'm doing a bunch of updates to my initial post to reflect the entire process of replacing Sync with Sync 3.

Let me know, thank you!
Yeah, NP.
 

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I have an opportunity to get all the Sync 3 parts/modules (and hopefully wiring pigtails or more) out of a 2015 ST3 that's in the process of being parted out for a great price. Any potential issues with using the 2 model year old parts to upgrade my 2017 ST1? It sounds like I'll need to get a newer part or two but all the big pieces should move over. Also potentially the automatic HVAC controls, though I'm not sure if I want to try to convert my base controls over.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
If it's a 2015 be careful... It's probably My Ford Touch (Sync 2). Sync 3 didn't come until 2016+. If you're worried about it not being Sync 3 shoot me a pic of the APIM. Also, would love to hear more about this parts car. Looking for Carbon Fiber interior pieces.

As for HVAC, I haven't dived into that. The wiring is completely different and there's no way you're going to get dual zone without completely replacing the entire dash harness and possibly even ducting all the way to the compressor. There also a temperature sensor in there somewhere. My buddy is going to *try* but I'm not sure if it's going to be possible. I would love to see what happens with just replacing the control panel though. Perhaps this could bring some sort of automation? Hm.

I have an opportunity to get all the Sync 3 parts/modules (and hopefully wiring pigtails or more) out of a 2015 ST3 that's in the process of being parted out for a great price. Any potential issues with using the 2 model year old parts to upgrade my 2017 ST1? It sounds like I'll need to get a newer part or two but all the big pieces should move over. Also potentially the automatic HVAC controls, though I'm not sure if I want to try to convert my base controls over.
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Is it possible to tell if it's Sync 2 or Sync 3 from an interior shot with the dash assembled? I'm hoping for some pictures Tuesday. Is it just the APIM that needs to be Sync 3 or are the other bits different between 2 and 3 as well?

I did ask about CF interior bits as well and apparently it doesn't have them. I don't think those were standard that early after the facelift, even on ST3.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Unfortunately there isn't a way to tell just from looking at it without taking it apart. We can probably tell from the VIN, though. Feel free to PM me when the time comes.

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Just sent a PM with the VIN number of the car being parted out.
 
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