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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
EDIT: This post has been heavily modified and updated to make it easier to find all of the necessary components, tips, & tricks to do this upgrade.

So for the past couple of weeks, I've been working out how to upgrade my 2017 Focus ST1 package to have the upgraded infotainment system, Sync 3.

I've decided to initially give out a re-wiring diagram/guide, which seems to be the most undocumented part of the entire conversion process. I purchased a full shop manual of just wiring diagrams in all 2017 Focus models and learned how to read it, for everyone's benefit. Over the past few days I've slaved over this book and figured out all of the differences in wiring between Sync 1 and Sync 3.

I present to you, my hard work, all in a spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gcnD6WD13f6KCUbdTTUSo0fGOTXCJtv5HmeemhjlwD8/edit?usp=sharing

Here's what you need to get started... I recommend having all of the below before even attempting this project.

PARTS NEEDED FOR SYNC 3 UPGRADE

  • Sync 3 Mounting Brackets (both the metal ones that attach to the screen, and plastic Sync 2 (MFT) or 3/ACM Bracket)
  • Wire Coathanger, unfolded and straightened (for taping and pushing new wires to various parts of the car)
TOOLS NEEDED FOR UPGRADE
Not all of the tools listed below are 100% required -- you could get away with doing the projects another way that may or may not increase the install time.

  • Wire Coathanger, unfolded and straightened (for taping and pushing new wires to various parts of the car)
  • Electrical Tape -- Get good 3M stuff from Home Depot
  • A Windows Laptop
Now for the fun part, tearing the car apart.

Installation Instrucations
PLEASE NOTE:These steps can be dangerous if not done correctly. I am not responsible for any damages you may cause to your car due to incorrect wiring or user error duing the installation process.

Step 1: Thoroughly go through my guide... note that at the bottom of the spreadsheet there are multiple tabs -- this is where you will find Wiring Diagrams and Programming Tips & Tricks: Ford Focus 2016+ Sync (ST1) to Sync 3 Guide

Step 2: Once you have all of the necessary parts ready, be sure to set aside the time to do this project. Plan for it to take a solid day, possibly longer including programming. Once you're ready, tear apart your dash and remove your Sync 1 system. There are lots of good YouTube videos on this just from guys who are re-doing their stereos.

Step 3: To remove your dash, pop off the trim around the center console shift area (starts on the side near the hvac panel and wraps around behind the shifter). You will find a T25 hex screw under the trim, near the shift knob. Remove this.

Step 4: Remove your shift knob by forcefully turning it counter clockwise. The knob and spring will pop out. Set the spring on your magnet tray and your shift knob in your cupholder for safe keeping.

Step 5: Next, use your trim tool to pry off the Passenger Airbag On/Off warning lamp (between the HVAC panel & the Media Panel). Do not pry from the bottom, pry from the top, left to right, to avoid breaking anything.

Step 6: Remove the four T25 Torx screws that are under the Passenger Airbag On/Off warning trim/light. These screws hold both the lower trim and upper trim in place. Some of these screws are directly visible, some are pointed up towards the Media Console faceplate. Place the screws in your magnet tray for safe keeping.

Step 7: Remove the T25 Torx screw that attaches the center console trim right behind the shift knob. Set this aside for safe keeping in your magnet tray. Next, use your trim removal tool to pry up on the entire shift trim area... this trim needs to be removed first. Once all clips are up, pull out the trim and unplug all connectors that are attached to it (HVAC, Traction Control, USB, 12V Power, etc). Set this trim aside.

Step 8: Pull up and out from the bottom of your current media console face plate in order to remove it. It will feel really difficult... but that's normal. Keep tugging and it will come off. Just double check to make sure you have ALL FOUR screws removed if you really can't get it to budge.

Step 9: Remove the Sync 1 APIM, ACM, & Screen screws. Save the screws in your magnet tray, you'll use them to put in the Sync 3 mounting hardware. These should all be held in by T25 screws... but the APIM may be mounted with hex, I can't recall.

Step 10: Move your 54 Pin APIM connector up to the top of the console area. You'll need to cut a few small zip ties back where the cable runs from. I recommend a small pair of long handled dykes to get the job done. This is a super important step so your APIM harness can reach the Sync 3 system.

Step 11: Once the APIM wiring harness is repositioned, start going to town on following my wiring diagram. ONLY DO ONE WIRE AT A TIME TO AVOID CONFUSION. There are multiple wires that have the same color and striping, so please please please do it this way. Soldering is the #1 recommended method, but I suppose you could use crimp connectors if you really wanted to. Skip placing in pins 8 & 38 during this process. We'll wire this up separately outside of the car to make our lives easier. Top tip: It's probably easier to do the repinning portion first, that way you know what spaces are empty that you need to fill with new pins and wiring. Print out the wiring diagram spreadsheet and cross things off as you go, or you'll get super confused. Also, when running the cables for the hazard switch, make them EXTRA long. these will need to go up behind the ACM and on top of it (between the APIM & ACM to reach the proper location on the trim.

Step 12: Once you are done soldering and rewiring, test your Screen and APIM. Just hand hold it and plug it in, then start the car. It should start up! (don't worry about PIN 8 & 38 yet).

Top tip: If it doesn't start up, chances are you're missing CANBUS lines (VMM13 & RMM13 are vital in getting it to turn on). If it doesn't work, check your wiring again... but it should work. Give it a minute to boot, sometimes APIMs that have been off for a while take a minute to boot up. Other things to check... make sure there is a wire passing between the apim and screen. This wire should have a blue connector and a yellow connector on it.

Step 13: Now that we know your screen works, it's time to replace your USB Hub. Go sit in the back seat of your car. Remove the back part of your center console, then use your fingers to pinch and push up on the clips that keep the original USB hub latched in. It should pop up. Pop out the USB cord that is a part of the old hub. This isn't necessary anymore.

Top tip: Go sit in the back seat of your car... remove the two screws on the inside of the center console lid first (they will be covered by two silver tabs. Pop off the back of the center console by forcefully pulling up and out from the small tray area that's there (do this from the back seat).

Step 14: Solder two 6 foot wires to the WPT-1239 Pigtail. Make one black and one white so you can tell the difference between ground and signal easily. on the other end of this, solder one APIM Pin/Wire to each wire. Top tip: See the pinouts of the WPT-1239 connector to see which you should solder a white cable onto and which you should solder a black cable onto.

Step 15: It's time to pull wires. With your straightened coat hanger, fold an inch section over to make a hook. Feed this from the back of the car, up through the front on the right side of the shifter. From there, electrical tape your new 6' Mini USB to Mini USB cable, along with the two wires (with the WPT-1239 connector on the end) you're running from the apim to the USB hub to the coat hanger, and pull the wire back through to the rear console. Leave a good extra 8" so you can work on plugging in the hub afterwards. Run the extra cable up into the area where the USB hub rests and plug in the hub to both power and the mini USB cable. DO NOT SEAT THE USB HUB IN IT'S HOLE YET.

Top tip: After pulling the wires, use zip ties to securely fasten these wires to the old wires running back there. This will make sure that the wires do get caught in the shift mechanism while you are driving.

Step 16: Finish running the two wires and USB cable up the back cavity of the center console. Place the signal cable (white) in Pin 8, and the ground cable (black) in Pin 38.

Step 17: Use your Torx screws to place the black plastic mount for the Sync 2/3 system on the mounting points (there are predrilled holes there!)

Top tip: There's a portion that looks like a hook on the plastic bracket... that goes on the bottom.

Step 18: Hold your hazard switch harness and connector up, then grab your ACM (CD Player), connect it all back up, then rest it in place while you route your Hazard switch harness. The two white nubs on the back of the cd player should rest in the hooks on the bottom of the plastic mounting bracket. Run the hazard switch connector over the top of the acm, but under the black plastic bracket... there's a small half circle channel that's provided as a channel for the cable to passthrough. Utilize it!

Top tip: Double check that everything is working before screwing it back together. Hazard lights should work nomatter what... don't worry if your volume control and stuff doesn't work off the bat... usually takes programming to get it to work right.

Step 19: Plug in your APIM, Fakra GPS, & the 6' USB cord you ran from the back of the car (plug it into the BLACK USB socket). The APIM should slide into place. Before screwing anything together, turn on the car and make sure Sync 3 boots up... double check the USB connection in the back by plugging in a USB stick or Phone. If USB doesn't work at first try switching which port the USB cable is plugged INTO ON THE USB HUB IN THE CONSOLE. One port is input, one port is output as a passthrough. If neither port works, Pop out the Sync 3 screen and APIM and double check the that USB port didn't pop out when sliding the screen and APIM into place. Repeat the USB hub port trick if it still doesn't work. At this point you should have a working hub. If it works, pop the hub into place in the center console compartment, then repace the back cover/trim that's in the back seat. Don't forget to screw it back into place from the inside of the compartment.

Top tip: Again, double check your work and make sure that there are no abnormalities when putting the car back together. Make sure your senses are heightened and you can smell if something is burning or doesn't seem right. The chances of something happening are super slim as long as you follow this guide to a T, but always be safe, nomatter what.

Step 20: Use the Torx screws from the 4.2" screen mount to attach the APIM/Screen & ACM to the plastic mounting bracket. This should be 6 screws. Starting at step 8, go in reverse order to put the car back together.

Programming Instructions
PLEASE NOTE:These steps can be dangerous if not done correctly. Make sure you back everything up before making any changes. I am not responsible for any damages you may cause to your car through programming changes.

Please view the tab "Sync 3 Hex Settings" along with "ACM - Audio Control Module" to see hex values inside of my spreadsheet guide.

Step 1: Buy a Focus compatible OBDII reader... Here's the one I use from Amazon

Step 2: Download ForScan (pc only -- don't get it for Android) -- Get a free ForScan license: Download ForScan Here

Step 3: Connect to your car in ForScan -- Start with the switch on MS CANBUS, then when prompted, switch it to HS CANBUS... this allows ForScan to read every module in your car.

Step 4: Once connected to your car, click the thing that looks like a Computer Processor on the lefthand side... this will allow you to see and edit the hexidecimal values of every module in your car.

Step 5: We are only going to go into and adjusting the APIM and ACM settings. DO NOT GO INTO ANY OTHER MODULES. To enter the APIM Module configuration, highlight "APIM (Asbuilt)" in the list, then click the blue Play button in the bottom left hand corner of the application.

Step 6: Firstly back up your initial configuration by clicking "Save All" under all of the Hex values. Save this file in a folder marked as your car's initial config -- for mine I made a folder called "Orig Focus ST Config" and named the file "Orig Config.xml"

Step 7: Now is the part where we experiment, because it really depends on what modules you've installed in your car (Sirius Enabled ACM, Nav Enabled APIM, etc). The best thing you can do is find a vehicle that is spec'd as similarly to yours as possible and copy the AsBuilt data from its VIN. For example, if you have a Sync 3 APIM with Nav, copy the VIN of a Focus ST ST3 package. If you don't have nav, copy the VIN from an ST2 package. Go to the Ford AsBuilt data website and paste in that VIN to get the real hexidecimal data that is coded onto that car. It's important that we only change the values within the APIM and ACM. Put the ForScan window and the AsBuilt data window next to each other so you can cross reference the data. Copy over the lines from the AsBuilt data to ForScan (make sure that the programming lines are EXACTLY the same when doing this). By that I mean make sure that 7D0-01-01 on the Ford AsBuilt data is copied to 7D0-01-01 in ForScan. Once you copy each relevant line from the AsBuilt data, click "Write All." This should write without any faults.

Step 8: During writing, the APIM will restart. ForScan will tell you to shut off your vehicle. Turn off the vehicle and open the door (to make sure that the APIM module fully shuts off). Wait 5-10 seconds, then start your car and reconnect to ForScan. This will be a majority of your time spent programming.

Step 9: Test what works and what doesn't. Most likely most things will work (steering wheel controls, auto dimming, etc.). Save this setup by clicking "Save All" and putting the file in a New folder for your new programming. Name the file something like "New Programming-No Volume Working" or something that describes what is and isn't working. This will help you go back to a step that you know what works and doesn't work if you mess up and make it so that more things don't work.

Step 10: The main issue with copying the AsBuilt from an ST2 or ST3 and using it in an ST1 is the fact that there's no DSP or Amp module in the back of the car. Totally fine, just go the the "Sync 3 Hex Settings" tab in this spreadsheet. These settings are from a Ford Explorer, but APIM settings are very similar between all models. To fix the DSP/Amp issue, we need to make the APIM stop looking for it... See this part of my guide. Once you figure out how to change that, Write All. It may give you an error, it's giving you this because the HEX checksum is wrong (last two digits of the line). This is okay... clicking continue will have ForScan calculate the proper checksum. Shutdown your car, open the door, wait 10 seconds, start the car. Test and Save a Backup as necessary.

Step 11: If you kept your ST1 ACM (cd player) you don't have Sirius, so make sure that it doesn't display in the APIM sources. See this line of my guide for more information. Once you figure out how to change that, Write All. It may give you an error, it's giving you this because the HEX checksum is wrong (last two digits of the line). This is okay... clicking continue will have ForScan calculate the proper checksup. Shutdown your car, open the door, wait 10 seconds, start the car. Test and Save a Backup as necessary.

Step 12: If you put a Sony ST2 or ST3 ACM in your car, you'll need to program your ACM to output right right signals. To do this, just go to the ACM Configuration and follow the programming changes from the ACM tab of this spreadsheet. You'll want to do the following... change the Sound Output Options to "00 - Regular Speakers" ... also while you're in here, it's a good opportunity to change your Audio Equalizer to give you more bass response. Change this hex value to "0" for better bass response. Write the changes, shutdown your car, open the door, wait 10 seconds, and start the car again.

Step 13: I can't tell you exactly how to program your APIM because there are so many different ways that you could have your car configured. I suggest reading through the "Sync 3 Hex Settings" tab in this spreadsheet and comparing what your car has and doesn't have and program your car according to that.

In the near future I will be updating this thread with photos & a video of the upgrade process. Hopefully what I have now has been helpful for you!

If you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to reach out!
 

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I am eager to see how this comes out, can you please take pictures throughout the process to show what you did, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am eager to see how this comes out, can you please take pictures throughout the process to show what you did, thanks!
So I ran into a couple of speedbumps with my wiring diagram. The wiring diagrams and pinouts of the connectors did not necessarily specify whether or not pins needed to be moved, rearranged, or added. This caused me to snip some important CANBUS lines rather than moving them to the proper pin location and soldering in other new wires that went in their old location. What I ended up finding was that I could cut and splice, but still need to move the wires that I had cut to another location... I've updated my spreadsheet to reflect these realizations so that whoever does this in the future doesn't need to do more soldering than necessary.

Unfortunately, the fun isn't over. Right now I've hit a couple more speedbumps, but I think I have it ironed out what I need to do to get the system in order. The next real issues are programming, along with three wiring changes. I need to add a pair of wires (SDL, + and -) from the APIM (pin 51 & 52) to the ACM, (pin 6 & 19), and figure out how to send 5V power to the ACM to be routed to the USB ports. I'm hoping this sorts out my issues with Android Auto & Apple Carplay.

What's working:

-- Bluetooth Audio
-- Bluetooth Calling
-- AM/FM Radio
-- Faceplate Buttons & Volume Control
-- Sweet Focus ST bootup and screen
-- Audio EQ, Fade & Balance

What's not working:
-- Steering wheel controls
-- Android Auto
-- Apple Carplay
-- Any sort of charging coming from the USB ports at all -- all data and power is dead ( I think I need to add in a 5V + line to the APIM in order to make this work)
-- HVAC (most likely because I still have the analog control panel, not the fancy digital one)
-- Auto Screen Dimming (fortunately there's a manual option for the intermediary period)
-- Clock will set and hold time within the settings, but not show up on the screen.
-- Rear view camera (wired in but not engaging when put into reverse... probably a programming issue).

I'm positive I can get this to work, it's just going to take a while to really iron out all of the kinks.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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Wow, this is the kind of guide into uncharted waters I have been looking for. Can't wait to read your final analysis to decide if I should do this for my ST1. Those Tesla style headunits from China just look to sketchy for my OCD taste.
 

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Hey nice work Delorean, I have been gathering parts to do the same conversion.
I have been looking at wiring diagrams for the last couple of days and started making a list on the changes needed.

MS-CAN Grey+Orange + Violet+Orange
IS-CAN Blue+Gray + Violet+Grey

C2402
Add Pins 7 + 4 for IS-CAN

C240B
Add 2 Wires on Pins 6 + 19 to join onto C2383 Pins 51 + 20

(same as C2383 swap)
[Swap Pins 13 to 12]
[Swap Pins 26 to 25]
[Swap Pins 25 to 14]
[Swap Pins 26 to 15]


C2383
Add 2 Wires on Pins 51 + 20 to join onto C240B Pins 6 + 19

Swap Pins 25 to 23 (sound from ACIM to ACM)
Swap Pins 26 to 24 (channels reversed)
Swap Pins 23 to 25
Swap Pins 24 to 26 (possible to swap pins on C240B)

Swap Pins 45 to 8 (usb 5v pwr to usb hub)
Swap Pins 47 to 38 (usb ground for usb hub)
Note Pin 38 Extra GROUND (not needed)

Swap Pins 5 to 12 (microphone input)
Swap Pins 6 to 13

Change Pins 16 + 17 to MS-CAN (add wires ?)
(previous IS-CAN) possible move existing wires to Pins 19 + 20

Add Pins 14 + 15 from C2123 Pins 6 + 12 (reverse camera)

Add Pins 47 + 48 from C2123 Pins 10 + 7 (audio remote)
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Wow, this is the kind of guide into uncharted waters I have been looking for. Can't wait to read your final analysis to decide if I should do this for my ST1. Those Tesla style headunits from China just look to sketchy for my OCD taste.
No worries man! I couldn't believe it when I saw that there was nothing about upgrading in the forums. There are literally no guides or wiring diagrams. Most people who ask about it are told it's impossible or not worth it. I want to document what I've done so that others can decide whether it's worth the time and effort to do the conversion.

I filmed a little video of the Sync 3 system installed in my car to show what's working and what's not working:


Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 

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Nice Work doing this mate, before this thread I was already in the planning stage for the same conversion.
Below is what I had figured out after going through some wiring diagrams.

MS-CAN Grey+Orange + Violet+Orange
IS-CAN Blue+Gray + Violet+Grey

C2402
Add Pins 7 + 4 for IS-CAN

C240B
Add 2 Wires on Pins 6 + 19 to join onto C2383 Pins 51 + 20

(same as C2383 swap)
[Swap Pins 13 to 12]
[Swap Pins 26 to 25]
[Swap Pins 25 to 14]
[Swap Pins 26 to 15]


C2383
Add 2 Wires on Pins 51 + 20 to join onto C240B Pins 6 + 19

Swap Pins 25 to 23 (sound from ACIM to ACM)
Swap Pins 26 to 24 (channels reversed)
Swap Pins 23 to 25
Swap Pins 24 to 26 (possible to swap pins on C240B)

Swap Pins 45 to 8 (usb 5v pwr to usb hub)
Swap Pins 47 to 38 (usb ground for usb hub)
Note Pin 38 Extra GROUND (not needed)

Swap Pins 5 to 12 (microphone input)
Swap Pins 6 to 13

Change Pins 16 + 17 to MS-CAN (add wires ?)
(previous IS-CAN) possible move existing wires to Pins 19 + 20

Add Pins 14 + 15 from C2123 Pins 6 + 12 (reverse camera)

Add Pins 47 + 48 from C2123 Pins 10 + 7 (audio remote)
 

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I have successfully moved the APIM connector up to the correct location so no extended needed :)
Also you know the camera signal comes from the cream colour connector (highlighted in green)
I just tested this and if its disconnected from the Sync1 FCDIM camera does not work, so I'm not sure about
Add Pins 14 + 15 from C2123 Pins 6 + 12 (reverse camera)
Before.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have successfully moved the APIM connector up to the correct location so no extended needed :)
Also you know the camera signal comes from the cream colour connector (highlighted in green)
I just tested this and if its disconnected from the Sync1 FCDIM camera does not work, so I'm not sure about
Add Pins 14 + 15 from C2123 Pins 6 + 12 (reverse camera)
View attachment 348871
Dude! Killer! So the things I'm noticing different about yours are ...
C2383
Add 2 Wires on Pins 51 + 20 to join onto C240B Pins 6 + 19
I don't know what year car you're doing this to, but mine is a 2017. I have it so that Pins 51 & 52 go to Pins 6 & 19 respectively.

Also, my car doesn't have that little yellow connector you highlighted!

I wonder if it's because you have an Australian model?
 

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Mine is Dec 2012 German Built.
Did your original display have a green fakra connector? If so that would be your camera output.

With Pins 51 & 52 go to Pins 6 & 19 are for I think SDL or Satellite Digital radio Link, I don't know if its needed.
What I posted was my first draft after going over the differences in the diagrams from 2012-2013 service manuals.

BTW I think carplay is not working because we need the upgraded usb hub

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HU5Z19A387A-SINGLE-PORT-CARPLAY-MODULE-FOR-MUSTANG-AND-FOCUS-/372019834073
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Ah, okay. So something is definitely different between the two vehicles, especially since mine is US Built & August 2016 Built.

My rear view cam doesn't have a Fakra connector... everything that goes into the Sync 1 display is via a 12 pin connector (pin 6 & 12, Blue, Green for the reverse cam).

I don't think that SDL stands for Satellite Digital Radio Link... Ford has its own protocol called "smart device link." I'm guessing that it's probably that... more here: https://developer.ford.com/pages/sdl

My guess is that this helps Carplay/Android Auto work and communicate with the ACM, but hey I could be way wrong.

Thoughts?
 

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I've been putting together bits and pieces of information from different sites, so to be honest i'm not 100% sure.

My car has the 5inch display so yeah more differences, I just noticed too that my 12pin connector does not have wires in pin 6 + 12.
So going by what I've read if you haven't tried forscan yet is to change the first 2 lines only in the APIM to your factory asbuilt settings and your camera might work.

I'm only learning as I go, still waiting for my parts to arrive.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My car has the 5inch display so yeah more differences, I just noticed too that my 12pin connector does not have wires in pin 6 + 12.
Is it a 5" screen or a 4.2" screen? This is what the front/back of mine looks like along with the front face plate.

I ordered a wired OBD2 connector so I can try to program it myself without going to my friend's place. I personally haven't even dipped into Forscan, but it couldn't be that difficult I would presume... I just don't want to fck anything up.

As of right now I need to...

1. Add the SDL lines between the ACM & APIM
2. Double check my face plate wiring (unsure if I took VDB14 and connected it up... this could potentially be why I don't have any illumination on the front panel).
3. Supply 5V power to the center console hub... I ordered the proper hub and hub connector on eBay... They'll be here next week.
4. Double check all pins on the ACM side to ensure I have everything I need.

I'm going on vacation for a week starting today so this thread might die off a bit in the mean time. Do you know when your parts are coming in, Superb?

As a final question... Does anybody know where I can get the type of pins that go into the 24 & 26 pin connectors that go into the ACM? I'll need these types of pins to run the SDL lines.

Let's get this **** working, y'all.


Sent from my OnePlus 6 using Tapatalk

• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alright, I'm back from my vacation...

How's it going @Superb?

I noticed something when I was driving the car today that was promising... the Speed Adjusted Volume is WORKING, which means the APIM is successfully communicating with the dash/ecu to get speed readouts... also, the car/sync 3 APIM is reading CD's too (with just the stock ST1 ACM, no Sat Radio)

Why I don't have Android Auto/Apple Carplay is still a mystery... along with why steering controls and illumination/dimming don't work...

I guess I'm going to have to start flashing different lines of code to the APIM/ACM soon. Will update.
 

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Hey sorry had been a little occupied trying to get Sync installed and all working in my free time.

I forgot to show you my original system, pic's are below.

IMG_3419.JPG
IMG_3420.JPG

So far with Sync 3 I've got all features working but a have a few bugs that i'm not sure about yet.
Initially on install the rear camera, voice control and bluetooth speaker (I couldn't hear the other person talking) from mobile phone wasn't working.
Bluetooth audio was ok.

I was able to fix the voice ctrl and bluetooth speaker by changing in Forscan via Central Config the touch screen option from MFD5 to DM8
Though for some reason it creates an issue with the IPC on door opening were I lose my ST logo and it is replaced with a bright solid blue screen with odometer.
If i press the ignition/start button it goes black and the animation graphic starts (No ST). Another side effect is the theme in the IPC has changed too, but it actually looks better :)

IMG_3422.JPG

The rear camera I found changing in APIM 7D0-01-01 to *3** **** ** got me display and proximity sensors on screen but no visual lines. Still haven't had time to find any fix.

Also sometimes I get a Nav fault after re-entering the car though a Master reset fixes it, I need to find a better solution.

Oh and still yet to modify the usb connector so I haven't tested that yet.

Have you got your OBD link yet, any progress?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey sorry had been a little occupied trying to get Sync installed and all working in my free time.

I forgot to show you my original system, pic's are below.

View attachment 349443
View attachment 349441

So far with Sync 3 I've got all features working but a have a few bugs that i'm not sure about yet.
Initially on install the rear camera, voice control and bluetooth speaker (I couldn't hear the other person talking) from mobile phone wasn't working.
Bluetooth audio was ok.

I was able to fix the voice ctrl and bluetooth speaker by changing in Forscan via Central Config the touch screen option from MFD5 to DM8
Though for some reason it creates an issue with the IPC on door opening were I lose my ST logo and it is replaced with a bright solid blue screen with odometer.
If i press the ignition/start button it goes black and the animation graphic starts (No ST). Another side effect is the theme in the IPC has changed too, but it actually looks better :)

View attachment 349445

The rear camera I found changing in APIM 7D0-01-01 to *3** **** ** got me display and proximity sensors on screen but no visual lines. Still haven't had time to find any fix.

Also sometimes I get a Nav fault after re-entering the car though a Master reset fixes it, I need to find a better solution.

Oh and still yet to modify the usb connector so I haven't tested that yet.

Have you got your OBD link yet, any progress?
Dude! I literally just changed the second line of the APIM code to ASBUILT from a 2017 ST2 and 90% of my problems are gone. I have steering controls and reverse cam back. I'm still having issues with USB stuff/Android Auto... Thinking of running new USB lines. Last really annoying issue I have is the dumb auto dimming won't work. Any recommendations for which line of code for that?

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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade
 

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I'm not 100% it worked fine for me after I changed the Integrated Control Panel in CC to Branded ICP/Mini EFP.

For yourself you could possibly find a car with the same options plus Sync 3 and upload the whole asbuild to the car.
Unfortunately I don't have the same luxury since my car is so old, I did take the risk and upload a 2013 US build but there were no noticeable changes to my issues

This program is good for comparing asbuilds CompulsiveCode - AsBuilt Explorer
 

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Discussion Starter #18
@Superb, I spent two hours in my car programming stuff last night and it seems that everything except Android Auto works! I need to add in the new hub and do some tests but it's looking promising. I got auto dimming to work by flashing the APIM line 1 to that of a Focus Titanium of the same year. I read someone in a fiesta st forum who did it that way and it worked, so I figured I'd give it a shot. Pretty cool.

Honestly I'm not sure what you're talking about in the first part of your last post. I'm guessing those are some different changes than my car due to the model year. Let me know if there's anything I can do to help you!

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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade
 

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Discussion Starter #19
After tearing things apart again today and adding in the SDL lines between the APIM & ACM, I STILL can't get Android Auto to work. I can plug in my phone to the front port and it will charge my phone, but absolutely nothing will pop up for android auto, even though it's enable in the settings. Any help with this would be much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well... I don't think it was the SDL lines. Turned out my APIM was still on v2 vs v2.3 or v3. It technically had Android Auto but it was such an old version my new phone wouldn't talk to it. I updated to Sync 3 v3 Build 18095 and I now have WORKING Android Auto. Safe to say that this build is done and I can move on to more fun stuff like adding a nicer speakers and amplifiers, dynamat, and maybe even a custom exhaust (I'm thinking Borla Catback ;)

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• 2017 Focus ST • ST1 • Kona Blue • Sync 3 Upgrade
 
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