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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been feeling and hearing crackling noises while reversing and cutting the wheel hard. I was worried about my cv axels so when I had wheels changed I had them look at them and told me they are wearing.
Car is at 97000km.
Has anyone had to replace their cv axels yet? if so recommendations where to purchase them? Ford's price is rapeingly expensive.
Rockauto?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've started hearing it at hard accelerations as well. It's not all the time or bad but enough to make me worry.
 
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Interesting, this is the first case of CV joints going out that I've heard...but it's bound to potentially happen. Maybe Canadian conditions attributed to them wearing quicker? I'd lean towards @SIstomper 's response if it weren't for the fact you said you had the shop look at them. Is it a trusted shop? Rock Auto might be a good place to start. I'll ask a friend of mine if he carries them to see if I can get you a better price and let you know.
 

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I've started hearing it at hard accelerations as well. It's not all the time or bad but enough to make me worry.
Jack the car up and move the tire around as hard as you can and see if you hear it. Happened to mine and it was audible. Replaced mount and all was well. Started just like yours and could really hear when you were parking
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes I had a shop look at the car and they are a reputable shop, they've done all the past maintenance on this car for the previous owner as well. I do hear the noise more when it's cool out and I'm reversing and cranking the wheel hard. I've only just started noticing it at hard accelerations. Also from what I've heard this is a common occurrence with our cars due to the torque they put out also coupled with the fact that mine is daily driven, which means winter driven. (it's a 2013)
I've found some replacements on Rockauto $79Cad for the left and $103Cad for the right, not bad...so $235 with shipping.
Anyone have any other places they recommend to purchase these?
 

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CV axles (not axels, for the love of god) aren't too bad to replace, just make sure you have the correct size socket for the axle nut, and a torque wrench to re-torque the control arm, sway bar end link, and outer tie rod hardware. You'll also have to take the strut out of the knuckle (so if you want to upgrade your struts/springs, now is a good time to do so).

OK basically you have to completely disassemble the knuckles. You might get away with not taking out part of it (either the control arm or the strut - depends on the car), but it's easiest to take it all out in the long run. The axle nuts are usually north of 200lb/ft to torque, so make sure you have a good torque wrench, or a good impact gun that'll go to at least ten ugga duggas.
 

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I had a front boot split and the CV joint started making noise. After I realized the noise wasn't going away I looked under the car and saw grease. Uh oh. I had less than 50k miles on it and took it to the dealer and they replaced the entire axle under warranty. It's pretty unusual for the boot to split, much less a joint going bad.
 

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Most of the time a CV joint will fail at the wheel end after the boot tears and grit replaces grease. The most prominent noise will be heard when driving from a stop with some steering angle on, like a rapid succession of pops as the balls inside the joint clack with the increased play exacerbated by the stress of the angle along with overcoming the inertia of the vehicle. If it's really bad, it might be possible to actually feel a stuttering torque response from the affected wheel. It would be very unusual to hear it primarily in a straight line (I've never experienced it without it doing it from a turn, but I'll allow it may be possible). I agree with the strut mounts being more likely.
 

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Yes I had a shop look at the car and they are a reputable shop, they've done all the past maintenance on this car for the previous owner as well. I do hear the noise more when it's cool out and I'm reversing and cranking the wheel hard. I've only just started noticing it at hard accelerations. Also from what I've heard this is a common occurrence with our cars due to the torque they put out also coupled with the fact that mine is daily driven, which means winter driven. (it's a 2013)
I've found some replacements on Rockauto $79Cad for the left and $103Cad for the right, not bad...so $235 with shipping.
Anyone have any other places they recommend to purchase these?
I'll shoot you a PM if my buddy can beat that price, one sec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll shoot you a PM if my buddy can beat that price, one sec.
Hey thanks!!
I actually just order them from RockAuto and should have them by the 10th.
Thank you for your help.
I'm really wanting to get them fixed up right away as I have a road trip coming up.
 
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Hey thanks!!
I actually just order them from RockAuto and should have them by the 10th.
Thank you for your help.
I'm really wanting to get them fixed up right away as I have a road trip coming up.
No problem, not something to wait around with anyway if you have a road trip!
 

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CV axles (not axels, for the love of god) aren't too bad to replace, just make sure you have the correct size socket for the axle nut, and a torque wrench to re-torque the control arm, sway bar end link, and outer tie rod hardware. You'll also have to take the strut out of the knuckle (so if you want to upgrade your struts/springs, now is a good time to do so).

OK basically you have to completely disassemble the knuckles. You might get away with not taking out part of it (either the control arm or the strut - depends on the car), but it's easiest to take it all out in the long run. The axle nuts are usually north of 200lb/ft to torque, so make sure you have a good torque wrench, or a good impact gun that'll go to at least ten ugga duggas.

Actually you just have to pop the struts and the lower balljoints. Control arms, sways, and tie rods can stay.

I have had them out 4 or five times at this point.

If i recall correctly, the bolt and nut for each lower balljoint should be replaced, and the mounting strap and nuts for the cv axle carrier bearing should be replaced also.
 
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60k Miles or 97k km and CV going out... unlikely without a boot failure as stated.... I would like to know if this is the final problem so I am subbing in.

my guess is on the top mounts. I know mine are "going out" and have the sound everyone describes when they are... I'm at 40k miles but after I drive the car and it warms up the sounds gone, again that is the normal thing according to everyone I have spoke to
 

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I just saw this thread, as I'm replacing my axles soon

Like Deuce said, the nuts/bolts for ball joints, nuts for bearing retainer, bearing retainer strap itself, and axle nuts are to be replaced.
Shop manual says 80Nm (59 ft-lbs) and an additional 90 degree rotation for axle nuts, with the car still jacked up (no load), requiring somebody to hold the brake pedal.


Does anybody know the size of the axle nut? I need to buy a socket for it...

EDIT: Axle nut is 32mm
 

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Hi all,
Sorry to dig up this old thread, but I have 140k on my 2013 ST, and I'm pretty sure it's in need of some new axles. I'm gonna go ahead and do both sides. I plan to get them from Rock Auto. I see above that there are a few other auxiliary parts that should be replaced, but I can't seem to find those referenced anywhere. Anyone know how to get those?
Also, is it suggested to replace the seals on the transmission side at the same time? If so, what are they called? I see several parts that seem possible.
Finally, I'm going to replace the fluid of course. I was wanting to use Red Line, since I've had good success with their products in previous vehicles, but I can't find they MT-LV they suggest on their site. Anyone running Red Line, and if so, which product? If I can't find RL, I'll get the Motul stuff.
 

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Reviving this thread. I need to replace passenger side axle on a 2013 ST as it has a torn boot. Rock Auto has the Motorcraft part, but I also need the to replace the bearing cap (which Rock Auto says is the 3N324 strap), but they don't seem to carry it. Does anyone know Ford part number for this or where I can get it?

EDIT:
The part number for the strap is YS4Z-3N324-AA ($1.59 from Ford)
Motorcraft/Ford axles do not come with axle nuts. That part is CCPZ-3B477-G.
Part numbers for bolt that holds ball joint to spindle: W715491-S442 (bolt) and W520415-S442 (nut).
 
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