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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Does anyone know the terminals that Ford uses in the rear drivers side fusebox. I'm in the process and just finished installing my Curt Hitch and will be wiring it up shortly. I typically use the mini blade add a circuit on the fusebox to get power. The rear fusebox perimeter protrudes too much so the add a circuit can't slide all the way into the stock fuse terminal so it only has about 15% contact and definitely not alright.

I figure why not actually just add a trailer fuse location in the box since the back of the fuse box already provides power to the entire box because of the internal bussbar. All I need to know is where to source a mini fuse female terminal that slides into the ford fuse box. The picture below is the fuse box and gives you a visual of what I'm thinking of doing. I'm guessing Mouser parts would probably carry the correct terminal, I just need a part number. My other idea is to pick up a used fuse box and remove the stock terminal and get the dimensions, but I'd prefer to save time and money if someone already knows the part #. The fuse box pictures are from a fuse box on ebay currently.



Edited For Part Number Information Acquired by using Official LEAR Design Drawing/Motorcraft Drawing:

I have Ford part numbers as well but I've tried various google searches and Fordparts website and the parts don't come up. The Ford part numbers might be reserved for Ford internally. The drawing also has TYCO part numbers which are the official part supplier so I provided that below with a large electronic distribution company I use frequently for parts



Tyco Electronics AMP Part #

1-1355880-1 (Good for 4 AWG Wire 25-40 amp)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...CH8kRYcI3o9DA%2bBwU6Of2NnnSMO%2bMdViasYQzXg==

1-1355877-1 (Good for 16-13 AWG Wire 22 amp)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...s0xoOuO3lI5/xRJEiuJK0QZ3DlgRZ0q7jno08Xk1XSg==

1-1355833-1 (Good for 20-17 AWG Wire 15 amp Individual Pieces)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...EpiMZZMve4/bfQkoj%2bK4s%2bw22a89HetpKw9eQkKo=

1-1355833-1 (Good for 20-17 AWG Wire 15 amp Bulk Part Number)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/1-1355833-1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1X/8R3EYQEUAAtbTwYvEW

1-1355876-1 (Good for 24-22 AWG Wire 11 amp)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...xoOuO3lI%2blxF2lDm6m1vuyFyOWT5zg1FG5lRhb6DA==
 

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I was able to get a mini-blade add-a-fuse into F43 back there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was able to get a mini-blade add-a-fuse into F43 back there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been looking into getting the correct terminal for the fuse box to add new circuits and got some awesome information regarding box design and full design schematics. I can't unfortunately share the drawing but once I get the part number it will allow us to add circuits easily. I'm waiting for someone in the European division to get back to me on the actual terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've been looking into getting the correct terminal for the fuse box to add new circuits and got some awesome information regarding box design and full design schematics. I can't unfortunately share the drawing but once I get the part number it will allow us to add circuits easily. I'm waiting for someone in the European division to get back to me on the actual terminals.
Part Numbers are now added to Top original Post....Enjoy
 

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Part Numbers are now added to Top original Post....Enjoy
Awesome thanks. Maybe more obvious when I look at things more closely but how does this come together exactly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awesome thanks. Maybe more obvious when I look at things more closely but how does this come together exactly?
It's pretty simple once you have the part in hand. Basically the fuse box is held in place by one screw on the very bottom. You remove the screw and just slide the fuse box up and it pop right out. The entire fuse box is a hot circuit with power provided by the bussbars internally in the box. All you need to do is crimp one of the connectors I provided above onto the appropriate wire and crimp it. You then just slide the wire in from the back side of the fuse box and the fuse box has these plastic retaining clips that snap into the crimped connector. When you plug a fuse into the box the power goes from the integrated copper bus bar into one leg of the mini fuse and out through the other leg of the mini fuse and into the crimped wire that you made and then powers whatever you need.

I'll provide pictures once I get my connectors in which should be later next week some time.
 

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Thanks that was actually a really good explanation. Might see myself doing this one day. I was particularly pleased to see Ford leaves a giant unused fuse box available for maximum potential.
 

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Nice thread as I am looking to get add a luggage compartment auxiliary power.
However the fuse used for this is a j-case fuse (position F25), and hence the pins are different than the standard fuses.

@JJ91284, would you happen to know where to get pins like the one below? Or maybe give me directions on who to talk with?


Many many thanks

--------- update ---------
Just an update, I need something similar to this but with dimensions 6.7x1.0 mm (this is the actual hole of the j-case fuse as seen from this scematic). In case I find anything, I will update. However I could use some help on that..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice thread as I am looking to get add a luggage compartment auxiliary power.
However the fuse used for this is a j-case fuse (position F25), and hence the pins are different than the standard fuses.


@JJ91284, would you happen to know where to get pins like the one below? Or maybe give me directions on who to talk with?


Many many thanks

--------- update ---------
Just an update, I need something similar to this but with dimensions 6.7x1.0 mm (this is the actual hole of the j-case fuse as seen from this scematic). In case I find anything, I will update. However I could use some help on that..
I emailed the senior designer again and asked him for the j-case fuse terminal in the box along with the relay terminals. Hopefully he gets back to me but it will probably take 2 days or so as that's how long my initial inquiry took from him. I'll keep you updated in the next few days if he gets back to me.

If not I have another idea on how I can probably get the correct terminal, but going through him is a lot easier.
 

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I emailed the senior designer again and asked him for the j-case fuse terminal in the box along with the relay terminals. Hopefully he gets back to me but it will probably take 2 days or so as that's how long my initial inquiry took from him. I'll keep you updated in the next few days if he gets back to me.

If not I have another idea on how I can probably get the correct terminal, but going through him is a lot easier.
Thank you very much for your help! I really appreciate it.

I also have another idea but I would like to avoid it
My idea is to get the terminal from place F24, F26 or F27 which are just sitting there. Just cut the wire below the terminal, remove the terminal, place the terminal to the other port of F25 and connect the wire to the positive of the auxiliary power.


P.S Already tested (on european version) and the single terminal on F25 brings ~14V all the time
 
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