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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I started on my simple rear pad swap last week and it has escalated to being much more of a headache then I thought it would be. The first night consisted of me trying to compress the piston with a set of needle nose pliers... No bueno. I gave it everything I had while rotating the pliers counter clock wise. The next night, I go out and rent the brake caliper tool from O Reilly's auto parts... come to find out that the adapters that come with the kit do not fit (same with the kit from my local autozone). So I stop being a cheap ass and head to harbor freight and purchase their brake caliper kit (seen below)

Auto part Vehicle Automotive tire Engine Machine

Well at last! After a little finagling to get the tool in between the piston and caliper, i crank down on it and the piston compresses. I slap the new pads on, put everything back together and fire her up so I could re-arrange the car so that I could get the other rear pad job started. Well.... the pedal goes to the floor... I pump and pump and pump and at times it would tighten up then go right on back to the floor. I decide to bleed the brake line going to that wheel and it definitely got a lot firmer. I was still baffled how air could have gotten into the line so I decide to go ahead and take the caliper off again and inspect everything just in case and I notice the piston appears to be leaking.

Auto part Suspension Brake Suspension part

Not sure if I messed it up while trying to compress it with the needle noise (I did nick the boot once on accident) or if I winded the piston back in too far with the harbor freight tool but I guess I did something wrong. I am assuming this is why I lost brake pressure after the initial install? Anyways does anyone have a good write up on removing the rear calipers with the e brake assembly? I searched for the helms manual but couldn't find a good download.

Thanks
 

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Happened to me one time on a previous car. I ended up having to take it to a shop to get it bled properly as it is not an easy task to do by yourself. Now mine didn't have any leakage so I don't know if that's the problem in your case.
 

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Well, the good news is that the caliper is cheaper than the pads you put in there! Old gear heads will tell you to replace both sides.

Just in case you were going to pay retail, order them from Bear Lake Autonation. My local Ford store told me that they must be aftermarket parts to be that cheap. HA!
 

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It's hard to say if you caused the leak but nicking the dust boot isnt the source, the real seal is down in the cylinder bore. Either way, it's a PITA to rebuild the rear calipers, save some aggravation and buy a reman'd one like grindMARC says. It shouldn't be too hard to replace, just remove the 2 slide bolts, brake line and finesse the ebrake cable off. If you can't find someone to help you bleed the brakes, a Mityvac vacuum pump ($40) works great!

Check out this thread if you want to rebuild it �� It's a Stang caliper but same nightmare!
Brakes - Complete Disassembly/Reassembly Of Rear Calipers (w/ Integrated Parking Brake)... | Mustang Forums at StangNet
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's hard to say if you caused the leak but nicking the dust boot isnt the source, the real seal is down in the cylinder bore. Either way, it's a PITA to rebuild the rear calipers, save some aggravation and buy a reman'd one like grindMARC says. It shouldn't be too hard to replace, just remove the 2 slide bolts, brake line and finesse the ebrake cable off. If you can't find someone to help you bleed the brakes, a Mityvac vacuum pump ($40) works great!

Check out this thread if you want to rebuild it ? It's a Stang caliper but same nightmare!
Brakes - Complete Disassembly/Reassembly Of Rear Calipers (w/ Integrated Parking Brake)... | Mustang Forums at StangNet
I think the leak may have happened by screwing the piston in to much...? Honestly it is so small of a "leak" that I thought it was just grease from the backplates of the new pads I installed. I called the local autozone and they said that they have a new caliper for 77 bucks which isn't bad. I was just unsure of how to disconnect the two lines on the caliper and how to reassemble the parking break mechanism.
 

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That's a fair price for the caliper. I don't know what you mean by "the two lines on the caliper"...there is only a single hydraulic line and the e-brake cable. I think the reman caliper will come with the e-brake lever and spring on the caliper, you should just have to maneuver the cable out of the lever on the old one and re-connect it on the new one. Another tip is don't disconnect the brake line until you have the new caliper and plan on installing it. Once disconnected the fluid will leak slowly but eventually drain the master.
 
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