I want to gauge interest in this new product. The point of the shrouds is to direct air THROUGH the radiator at speed, and not around it. There is a huge gap between the radiator and the front bumper and support, air can leak through here into the lower pressure zones near the wheel well, I plan on sealing this gap off and having true ducting for those who want to run cooler water and oil temps.
If you live in a hot climate or track your car, this will be a a great addition.
The top shrouds are all the same since the intercooler sits below the radiator. The bottom shrouds might have extra material to cut-to-fit but they will bolt up or snap in place somehow.
First problem I talked with kevin about was intercoolers. Before we even got into the radiator shrouds I wanted to make a modular shroud that would fit all brand intercoolers. Thats the intention.
We've tracked two versions of this and the second version (better sealing of the gaps) fluid temps were down. A review of the data logs showed that at no time was the cooling system under stress for any of the 20min sessions with ambient temps in the 80s.
The top portion above the crash bar should be the same on everyone's cars regardless of what radiator may be run now or in the future. The lower half that will box in the intercooler below the crash bar is where Dan is going to work his magic. Boxing in the intercooler will help air to flow to the lower half of the radiator.
I'm interested but not sure an upper shroud is necessary?
Even with an aftermarket FMIC (most common brands/sizes, e.g. Steeda, cp-e, Depo...) one can cut off the bottom of the AGS frame, remove the blades from the top half and use that to retain the upper radiator shroud.
The trick (I know you know this) with the bottom half will be to collect air from the entirety of the bottom grill opening and neck it down to whatever size the FMIC frame is.
Additionally, there needs to be no (edge) gap between the back of the FMIC and the front of the radiator else air which has passed through the FMIC will then just leak out around the sides of the radiator. For the Steedas, cp-e's, and Depos, all the installs I have seen this won't be a problem. But for the poster on page 1 with the FMIC mounted in front of the crash bar, you can see there is a huge gap between the back of the FMIC and the front of the radiator that would need to be addressed.
But for the poster on page 1 with the FMIC mounted in front of the crash bar, you can see there is a huge gap between the back of the FMIC and the front of the radiator that would need to be addressed.
I think doing that doesn't allow room for the oil cooler. The guides should also allow a larger volume of air to to make contact with more surface area of the radiator.
If the snorkle is installed correct the factory shroud is still in n place. Just has to be modified. However I want the ugly rubber thing gone which opens up more of the radiator. With the shrouds that VelossaTech is perusing this will be a great solution.
Most of you have been following me or have been apart of several discussions on the cooling topic but I'll give some history for those just joining us. October, about three seconds into the this video while testing Velossa Techs brake duct system the car goes into limp mode. This happened twice with coolant temps as high as 241*F.
November, Some improved guides were installed. Data logs were sent off to Alex at Stratified for review. The conclusion is that the guides made a significant difference and provided adiquite cooling for a car putting out over 350whp for five 20 minute sessions.
It's a lot of clutter, but the line you should be interested in is the orange one on the top of the graph.
December. What I've learned is, "how much power do you want to make and how long do you need to make it for." Start your bullet proofing with this in mind.
Thanks to Alex@Stratified and Hemicouple@Stratified Reading a single pull data log can be tedious, I can't imaging going through several 20 minute sessions.
Most of you have been following me or have been apart of several discussions on the cooling topic but I'll give some history for those just joining us. October, about three seconds into the this video while testing Velossa Techs brake duct system the car goes into limp mode. This happened twice with coolant temps as high as 241*F.
November, Some improved guides were installed. Data logs were sent off to Alex at Stratified for review. The conclusion is that the guides made a significant difference and provided adiquite cooling for a car putting out over 350whp for five 20 minute sessions.
It's a lot of clutter, but the line you should be interested in is the orange one on the top of the graph.
December. What I've learned is, "how much power do you want to make and how long do you need to make it for." Start your bullet proofing with this in mind.
Thanks to Alex@Stratified. Reading a single pull data log can be tedious, I can't imaging going through several 20 minute sessions.
I wish I could provide a with/without back to back comparison, but that's a lot to do at the track. Between Velossa Tech and PHAST I think were doing a pretty good job of getting out info. Dan and I are on the same page that if it doesn't work it doesn't get sold! We have a session next week and once a month through March.
nice, yea don't just sell something to sell something, it needs to be beneficial. I want to start tracking my car, just want more of it paid off, and a second car as currently it's my only.
I want to gauge interest in this new product. The point of the shrouds is to direct air THROUGH the radiator at speed, and not around it. There is a huge gap between the radiator and the front bumper and support, air can leak through here into the lower pressure zones near the wheel well, I plan on sealing this gap off and having true ducting for those who want to run cooler water and oil temps. If you live in a hot climate or track your car, this will be a a great addition. Thoughts?
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