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Finalized version is being designed, bear with us.
@VelossaTech

Any news and/or data on this setup? I know you had a lot of info on the brake ducts recently and I assume you had the shrouds in place for that track day as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
@VelossaTech

Any news and/or data on this setup? I know you had a lot of info on the brake ducts recently and I assume you had the shrouds in place for that track day as well.
Hi.

I have lots of track data on cooling/oil performance with the shrouds. I have to go back and dig through to get it. @Kevin has more information on it since he and Alex did the data logging this time.

There are going to be other big product launches in the very near future. The shrouds were on a temporary hold but will be next on the list as well as other supporting modifications :)
 

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The graphs that were already posted is all the data I have. I know @danmad32 is a devil in the details kind of guy but the shrouding testing was much more simple from our point view for testing, did it over heat or not in a 20 min sessions. Temps were down significantly and I could finish all my sessions. Without I went to limp mode and my sessions were done. The last version tested in November performed to our satisfaction and I used the same setup in December. One track was short and technical the next track had a mix of long straights with sustained boost and technical section.

If we could we'd do a side by side like we did with the brake set up but it's impractical, I'm not going to purposely over heat an engine to establish a baseline. It's dangerous to be on q track with no power and just a tad more expensive to replace than rotors and pads if things go bad.
 

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The graphs that were already posted is all the data I have. I know @danmad32 is a devil in the details kind of guy but the shrouding testing was much more simple from our point view for testing, did it over heat or not in a 20 min sessions. Temps were down significantly and I could finish all my sessions. Without I went to limp mode and my sessions were done. The last version tested in November performed to our satisfaction and I used the same setup in December. One track was short and technical the next track had a mix of long straights with sustained boost and technical section.

If we could we'd do a side by side like we did with the brake set up but it's impractical, I'm not going to purposely over heat an engine to establish a baseline. It's dangerous to be on q track with no power and just a tad more expensive to replace than rotors and pads if things go bad.
Thanks, I wasn't expecting back to back as it would be a pain to remove, but I don't think I saw coolant temps from the December track day that the new Stage 1 brake cooling data was from. If you had issues before and are now in the 220-ish temp range like on your November track day, that is great. I have plenty of the before data myself, even at lower ambient temps and stock power levels and got up to very high coolant and oil temps ;) If you have csv's from the December track day, I'm of course interested in looking at them.

I did get bored today and started working on my own sheet metal design to work with my shaved grill. The angle is greater than ~7 degrees Dan at Velossa Tech had mentioned but I still expect the extra air flow to be helpful. Hopefully I can get the actual sheet metal cut and mocked up on this weekend.

1231151624_HDR.jpg 1231151522.jpg
 
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I am looking forward to these as I had to remove the factory piece to fit my new grill. Right now the car isn't being driven so I'm not worried. However the auto x season will be here in a few months and I want to be ready then. Send from another galaxy.
Engine cooling isn't a factor in AutoX.

Only on-track with prolonged periods of boost and lots of WOT.
 

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I have no issues with coolant temps in autox, even double heating. I may get a 5-10 degree rise in coolant temp, but that's pretty negligible. My issue is mainly charge temps sitting in paddock, as my local club does a line system so i can't just turn the car off until my next run as I need to keep moving forward after each car goes.


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Of course engine cooling is a factor in auto x. Yes it's needed more for track racing. Send from another galaxy.
I've had a co-driver with my car. 5 runs each, double heats in Central Florida in July and engine temps are simply not a factor.
 

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I've had a co-driver with my car. 5 runs each, double heats in Central Florida in July and engine temps are simply not a factor.
Engine temps are always a factor. Daily driving or racing. Block off your grill and find out what happens. I never said it will get as hot.

Send from another galaxy.
 

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Another interested party here. I just got the car and the power is enough to satisfy me for now. Improving the cooling and making sure when I get the car on the track it stays there for longer is something I want to do first.
 

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Thanks, I wasn't expecting back to back as it would be a pain to remove, but I don't think I saw coolant temps from the December track day that the new Stage 1 brake cooling data was from. If you had issues before and are now in the 220-ish temp range like on your November track day, that is great. I have plenty of the before data myself, even at lower ambient temps and stock power levels and got up to very high coolant and oil temps ;) If you have csv's from the December track day, I'm of course interested in looking at them.

I did get bored today and started working on my own sheet metal design to work with my shaved grill. The angle is greater than ~7 degrees Dan at Velossa Tech had mentioned but I still expect the extra air flow to be helpful. Hopefully I can get the actual sheet metal cut and mocked up on this weekend.

View attachment 119531 View attachment 119532
Here is how the metal version turned out, at least the top portion. I still need to make something for the FMIC. I used 0.025" Aluminum (only option in the size I needed at Lowes), but if I was doing it again, I would use something a little thicker. Everything is bolted together with stainless hardware and the only permanent modifications to the car itself are 2 holes on each side in the composite/plastic structure.

I would assume the biggest challenge for making a "universal" 3D printed kit will be allowing it to be easily modified to accommodate as many of the different oil cooler and FMIC options as possible. Also, if you shave the grill or have a Beeks there is some additional customization needed.

0102161847a.jpg 0102161828a.jpg 0102161728a.jpg
 

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Here is how the metal version turned out, at least the top portion. I still need to make something for the FMIC. I used 0.025" Aluminum (only option in the size I needed at Lowes), but if I was doing it again, I would use something a little thicker. Everything is bolted together with stainless hardware and the only permanent modifications to the car itself are 2 holes on each side in the composite/plastic structure. I would assume the biggest challenge for making a "universal" 3D printed kit will be allowing it to be easily modified to accommodate as many of the different oil cooler and FMIC options as possible. Also, if you shave the grill or have a Beeks there is some additional customization needed. <img src="http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=119625"/><img src="http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=119626"/><img src="http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=119627"/>

Nice work! Are those welded at all? I am having trouble getting accurate measurements lol
 

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that turned out surprisingly well
Thanks. It took me awhile both to mock it up and then to actually make the parts. It really helped having all the right tools though, Tech Shop is awesome!

It looks pretty good in the raw finish behind the grill, but I will probably eventually powdercoat it a similar grey/silver color or flat black.
 

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Nice work! Are those welded at all? I am having trouble getting accurate measurements lol
Not welded anywhere, everything is bolted together and I used folded tabs to attach the top piece and the middle splitter to the side pieces. Getting the side pieces right took a long time and 3-4 tries with cardboard, plus lots of trimming but then I had a good start before going to metal. I still ended up tweaking the metal ones a little. The top piece could be welded as I tried removing/installing the 2 sides and top as one piece and it was fine, I haven't tried removing the entire thing as one unit, but it may work. They have a couple nice TIG machines at Tech Shop and I took the safety class to use them, but I only have about 15 minutes of TIG welding experience and that was steel and results were not pretty.
 

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Not welded anywhere, everything is bolted together and I used folded tabs to attach the top piece and the middle splitter to the side pieces. Getting the side pieces right took a long time and 3-4 tries with cardboard, plus lots of trimming but then I had a good start before going to metal. I still ended up tweaking the metal ones a little. The top piece could be welded as I tried removing/installing the 2 sides and top as one piece and it was fine, I haven't tried removing the entire thing as one unit, but it may work. They have a couple nice TIG machines at Tech Shop and I took the safety class to use them, but I only have about 15 minutes of TIG welding experience and that was steel and results were not pretty.
Yeah a tech shop is handy no doubt. I have been SUPER busy at work and haven't had the typical "tinker" time I usually do; however it is the middle of winter and I don't feel too rushed. I'll get around to it and might do it with kydex. And I can't weld, I would be better off with a hot glue gun...
 
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