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How's it going everyone I have 500 miles was wondering when you guys did your first oil change and break in period thank you ?
 

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(another oil thread.. how many hundreds of comments will fill the pages?)
Anyway, I changed my first oil change at 1,000 miles. Switched to Mobil 1
and used the Motorcraft F400s (which is the same diameter as stock, but a bit taller.
Doing your own? Remember that FIRST oil filter is stuck on TIGHT!!
I had to go buy a friction wrap around filter tool. I did NOT want to puncture of destroy the filter.
(if you cannot get it off, and it is damaged, punctured,, you are screwed)
The filter is 'up' in a fairly tight area, so it is near impossible to get a extended tool around it up where the filter is.
The wrap strap type filter removal tool bar extends down, so I could get a wrench with leverage to apply.
Anyway, have fun.
 

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(another oil thread.. how many hundreds of comments will fill the pages?)
Anyway, I changed my first oil change at 1,000 miles. Switched to Mobil 1
and used the Motorcraft F400s (which is the same diameter as stock, but a bit taller.
Doing your own? Remember that FIRST oil filter is stuck on TIGHT!!
I had to go buy a friction wrap around filter tool. I did NOT want to puncture of destroy the filter.
(if you cannot get it off, and it is damaged, punctured,, you are screwed)
The filter is 'up' in a fairly tight area, so it is near impossible to get a extended tool around it up where the filter is.
The wrap strap type filter removal tool bar extends down, so I could get a wrench with leverage to apply.
Anyway, have fun.
I got what I call the "Oil Filter Socket"; it is a cap that fits over the end of the filter and grips the dimples on the filter canister. A 1/2 drive extension fits into it and you just ratchet the filter off.
 
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I did my first at just over 1,500 and went to Mobil 1. I will do the second shortly at 5k and after that it's easy for to remember to change at every multiple of 5 k. I plan on going to the longer filter when mine is out of warranty as I don't want to give them the slightest excuse to deny me in case I have a problem with the car. It has, however, been just perfect through 4,600 miles.
 

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Did my first at 2500k. Used Motorcraft 5w30 and the FL400s filter. Going to do it again at 5k and will be using ENOS 5w30. DI Turbocharged engines are hard on oil. I will do mine every 3k as I like do drive it kind of rough.
 

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I switched up to Redline at 2000miles per their recommendation.

2000mi is long enough to break in the rings with the factory oil. Any sooner and you can potentially risk not having the rings seal properly right away if the new oil is super slick. Broken-in rings means better ring seal, less blowby, and more power.

Both the FL-910 and FL-400 fit the engine. FL-910 is the spec'ed size and the FL-400 is a little bigger and allows for 6qts to fit nicely.

My Best advice: use a synthetic 5w-30 of your choice and keep an eye on level. Use the oil change computer if you want, and consider changes sooner if you race/track day the car.

The only truth about change intervals is what you get out of oil analysis...
 
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First oil change at 1,000. Subsequent oil changes will be at 10,000 because my Blackstone analysis supports that easily.

What is a "break in" period??
 

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What is a "break in" period??
Short answer: the amount of time the engine needs to run under certain circumstances to rub down some rough edges in the engine.

Long Answer:

The piston in a cylinder does not do all the sealing, it is up to the piston rings and a film of oil to complete the seal.

When newly assembled an engine's piston rings are "rough" at a microscopic level. The peaks and valleys at the edges of the rings that ride against the cylinder wall are small, but big enough that the oil film is not enough to seal the gaps.

Over time, (normally a few thousand miles) the new rings rub against the cylinder wall and hone themselves down to a smoother consistency. This means that over the 'break in' gaps are made smaller, and hopefully become just the right size for the oil to finish the seal job.

Some older engines may also 'break in' other components like cams, lifters, or bearings, but for our Ecoboost engines the biggest break in item is the rings.
 

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And where does that metal go?

Depends on if you have a magnet on your filter:

(Oil Change at 2075 miles with Filtermag on filter since ~1700 miles)
 

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Short answer: the amount of time the engine needs to run under certain circumstances to rub down some rough edges in the engine.

Long Answer:

The piston in a cylinder does not do all the sealing, it is up to the piston rings and a film of oil to complete the seal.

When newly assembled an engine's piston rings are "rough" at a microscopic level. The peaks and valleys at the edges of the rings that ride against the cylinder wall are small, but big enough that the oil film is not enough to seal the gaps.

Over time, (normally a few thousand miles) the new rings rub against the cylinder wall and hone themselves down to a smoother consistency. This means that over the 'break in' gaps are made smaller, and hopefully become just the right size for the oil to finish the seal job.

Some older engines may also 'break in' other components like cams, lifters, or bearings, but for our Ecoboost engines the biggest break in item is the rings.
Sorry dude...that was a total joke and complete sarcasm...totally didn't mean to reel ya in like that!
 

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I got what I call the "Oil Filter Socket"; it is a cap that fits over the end of the filter and grips the dimples on the filter canister. A 1/2 drive extension fits into it and you just ratchet the filter off.
Who makes it?
 

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My metal and plastic versions of the tool which fits on the bottom of a filter.. when they get old, fail to work anymore.
They just slide around the bumps on the filter.
And are unable to get off a stuck filter.
So... Yeah, mine (2 different ones) worked for a few years...
But now they are worthless crap.
I tried and returned one of the three prongs and a twist to tighten type. As being total POS.
It did not hold, or would cut into the cartridge and still fail to unscrew the oil filter.

The best removal tool I have found to be the friction belt with a vertical wrench fitting.
Oddly the damn opening on the fitting has no relation to ANY standard socket or ratchet size.
So I used an small standard ratchet extension HAMMERED in with shims!
LOL
 

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i went almost 10K. car never told me to change the oil. did it myself at like 9.8. it was a piece of cake. i used mobile 1 extended performance.
 

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I use the cap type filter removal tool on motorcycle filters and they work fine IF the filter isn’t on too tight. Unfortunately they are often on very tight from the factory. Once the filter tool slips on the filter it won’t work on that filter as the edges of the filter are rounded off very quickly. Then you are back to square one. If you use one make sure it is new, clean the filter, put the cap on and tap it with a rubber mallet to seat it, then use a 3/8 or 1/2 drive to rotate it off. Hopefully it will work, then when you install the new filter coat the rubber gasket and don’t screw it down too tight, it only needs about a 1/2 turn once the gasket makes contact, you can almost do it with your hand.
 

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I you can almost do it with your hand.
I Do do it with my hand. (My girlie weak hands.) But I do place a thin rubber 'cup' over the filter to improve
my weak grip.
When I take OFF the filter I tightened this way....
it is too tight for me to remove without a tool and a good twist with a long wrench.
So I hand tight is certainly all that is needed.
 

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Who makes it?
Lots of different ones out there; should be able to get one at any parts store. I think I have seen them at Walmart too.
 
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