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This is completely normal apparently, don’t think there’s any way of getting rid of it unfortunately. I haven’t done the cable bushings yet, was going they would get rid of that last bit of wiggle, but looks like no.


The cable bushings do get rid of a lot of play.
 

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Sure, but watch video OP posted. The shifter still moves like crazy, in gear and in neutral. The point of my post is that I asked a local ST group (with video, just like OP's) if its possible to get rid of the play in the shifter. Everyone said it isn't, but I'd love to be proven wrong. @Duece McCracken ?
 

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Sure, but watch video OP posted. The shifter still moves like crazy, in gear and in neutral. The point of my post is that I asked a local ST group (with video, just like OP's) if its possible to get rid of the play in the shifter. Everyone said it isn't, but I'd love to be proven wrong. @Duece McCracken ?
I'll try and get a video of my slop. I have probably the shortest, and stiffest shifter setup out there, with mint trans internals. So its a great canidate for comparison.
 

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I'll try and get a video of my slop. I have probably the shortest, and stiffest shifter setup out there, with mint trans internals. So its a great canidate for comparison.
That would be sweet. I know this isn't exactly the right place but is there anything you know of to alleviate the JBR arm notchiness in R/1/2?
 

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OP if you could take your intake box out so we can see the functions alot better of the shift arm it would help. Secondly when you do that I'd pop both the shift linkages off the different mount points so your seeing and feeling if the play is from the shift arm.allowing it or the cables ends moving freely making you think it's the shift arm. If you could have a second person also when you pull the linkage ends off I'd have one of you holding the ends solid and still and have the other person go into the car and wiggle the shifter if it doesnt move much at all then you've totally eliminated the cables. Make sure your cable bracket bushings are absolutely tight not breaking them, but tight. Also make sure your cable end bushings are good and tightly installed and while off the shifter arm put your finger on that green ball inside the new bushings and make sure the bushings and that ball dont have alot of play inside those ebay cable end bushings, and that the actual bushing doesnt have play in the cable end. Lastly make another video up close on the shifter arm and the pin or bolt used to hold onto the end of the shifter rail, get top and side views if you can well lit, we should be able to see the play and if it's from the shift arm or if the shift arm isnt moving but the shifter rail is inside the transmission. I call the shifter rail, the long shaft that the shift arm bolts to that has the shift forks on it. If your able to do that I think we can really really narrow it down.
 

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That would be sweet. I know this isn't exactly the right place but is there anything you know of to alleviate the JBR arm notchiness in R/1/2?


I hope one of these links works, lmao.
 

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@Duece McCracken your slop up/down looks about the same as I have. I have all the solid bushings, and there's 12,000 miles on the car (and about 50 miles on the solid bushings). Looking at the shift arm, I'm pretty sure that this slop is in the transmission itself - wiggling the shift arm directly causes it to rotate slightly on its mount (i.e. the same rotation when you actually engage a gear). I suppose there's some very limited play in the shift forks that gets amplified by the shift lever (the 1/8" movement of the lever is probably 1/32" or less in the shift forks - the shift arm wiggle is barely noticeable).
 

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@Duece McCracken your slop up/down looks about the same as I have. I have all the solid bushings, and there's 12,000 miles on the car (and about 50 miles on the solid bushings). Looking at the shift arm, I'm pretty sure that this slop is in the transmission itself - wiggling the shift arm directly causes it to rotate slightly on its mount (i.e. the same rotation when you actually engage a gear). I suppose there's some very limited play in the shift forks that gets amplified by the shift lever (the 1/8" movement of the lever is probably 1/32" or less in the shift forks - the shift arm wiggle is barely noticeable).
You need some slop, or else you wont build any inertia, making shifts very difficult.

Sounds like you are good to go, no worries.
 

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^ that’s essentially what local group members told me. Yours looks significantly tighter than video OP posted. I bet it has to do with the boomba shifter. I’ll update when I do the weighted cable bushings.
 

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^ that’s essentially what local group members told me. Yours looks significantly tighter than video OP posted. I bet it has to do with the boomba shifter. I’ll update when I do the weighted cable bushings.
I'm on the stock shift lever, and the JBR short shift arm, so I don't think the shift lever affects this.
 
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