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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Project: Metric ST
- the Daily Driver Build

2016 Focus ST3 in Magnetic Metallic

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This car is warrantied until 2024 so I won't be tuning it. The goal is to build a clean daily driver and maintain that warranty. We'll see how far we can push it...

I hope you enjoy and I'll try not to eff it up!

WALLtech

[][][][4][][][][][5]

02/17/2017
Mountune® Symposer Delete

Notes:
Install was incredibly easy, about 20 minutes in the driveway. It was good for getting the rust off the tools though...

I think the block-off plate itself is thinner than the others I've seen. The kit included shorter replacement bolts. I realized this when the stock bolts bottomed out and plate was still dangling. Don't lose the o-ring like I almost did. It definitely frees up two decent size pockets in the engine bay. I think I might fill one of the gaps with an Oil Catch Can...

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Intake

02/21/2017
mountune® Low Restriction Intake (black), no filter
mountune® High Flow Induction Hose
Ford Performance RS Air Box
Ford Performance K&N Filter

Notes:
Install was reasonably tough and takes a bit of wrestling to rotate the tube-ends into the couplings. The filter and air box was easy enough, just takes some careful fiddling and you'll get there. All said and done it took about an hour.

The cold idle was noticeably louder than stock (Symposer Deleted). To be honest, after putting a few hundred kilometers on the Symposer Delete over the weekend I found the overall noise to be uninspiring and kind of bland. If I was staying stock I would definitely run the symposer. The revs now, with the open air box, sound incredible. A hint of turbo spool under the whoosh of air. There isn't much of a difference, if any, during regular driving, but during WOT the sound builds nicely into the higher revs.

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I'm getting antsy for spring. I just want to get under the car and get working...

I got a call from the wheel shop yesterday - wheels and tires are in. Now for re-drill and refinish... should be ready by next week (even though the weather won't be).





I'm also waiting on Steeda Jacking Rails. I will put those on first (in the cold) to get prepped for everything else once the weather turns.

Until next time!
 

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Looks awesome! I like the RS air box. I was thinking of getting one for my ST and the RS engine cover which looks cleaning IMO

Edit - I like the Ford Performance booklet cover, wonder where I can get one of those!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks awesome! I like the RS air box. I was thinking of getting one for my ST and the RS engine cover which looks cleaning IMO

Edit - I like the Ford Performance booklet cover, wonder where I can get one of those!
Thank you! The added sound from the air box is great. Do we know if the RS engine cover will fit the same as the ST? I like the Ford Performance moniker on it but I have zero room against the mountune Intake.
 

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RS Eng Cover: fits

Thank you! The added sound from the air box is great. Do we know if the RS engine cover will fit the same as the ST? I like the Ford Performance moniker on it but I have zero room against the mountune Intake.
Yes, follow link to this other thread (& image) post #15: http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/66562-rs-intake-box-post1317969.html#post1317969

I was just checking that RS airbox & engine cover thread earlier today.
Looks like we both picked up our STs recently, cool. Will be interested to watch your build, I might have to make my own thread for mine, lol. I am not planning on doing anything to kick it off warranty too, but I've already started down the rabbit-hole. BTW, I like the symposer's sounds, (I installed my JBR (top quality piece of equipment) OCC under my airbox to keep the symposer) I will be keeping the piped in tunes until (if) I put on a front strut brace. I am thinking an RS airbox may be in order for mine too.

Subscribed to this thread btw
 

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Nice nice. I'm trying to keep my warranty too. I'm guessing we both have the extended warranty? 7yrs or 100k miles right? 2016 White ST1. So far I've done shifter bushings, pedal movement, supertone horns (CA traffic), a focus delete, rockblokz, and changed my ST badge colors. I think a RMM and short shifter are probably what's going to be next for this car.
 

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Thank you! The added sound from the air box is great. Do we know if the RS engine cover will fit the same as the ST? I like the Ford Performance moniker on it but I have zero room against the mountune Intake.
Everything I've read shows it as a direct fit. It's the same size and shape as the ST cover.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, follow link to this other thread (& image) post #15: http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/66562-rs-intake-box-post1317969.html#post1317969

I was just checking that RS airbox & engine cover thread earlier today.
Looks like we both picked up our STs recently, cool. Will be interested to watch your build, I might have to make my own thread for mine, lol. I am not planning on doing anything to kick it off warranty too, but I've already started down the rabbit-hole. BTW, I like the symposer's sounds, (I installed my JBR (top quality piece of equipment) OCC under my airbox to keep the symposer) I will be keeping the piped in tunes until (if) I put on a front strut brace. I am thinking an RS airbox may be in order for mine too.

Subscribed to this thread btw
Thanks for the link. I think that looks pretty good. I'll see if I can hunt down a part No.

I like the symposer too but I want to enjoy the exhaust and open airbox. I'm curious to get the uprated BPV installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nice nice. I'm trying to keep my warranty too. I'm guessing we both have the extended warranty? 7yrs or 100k miles right? 2016 White ST1. So far I've done shifter bushings, pedal movement, supertone horns (CA traffic), a focus delete, rockblokz, and changed my ST badge colors. I think a RMM and short shifter are probably what's going to be next for this car.
I'm up in Canada so it may be a little different warranty but more or less extends it 3 years and covers everything. I haggled for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
03/19/2017
mountune® Quick-Shift Arm

Note:
Okay, note to self... should have done this when I had the intake track apart the first time - putting it all back together is such a PITA.

The shift arm kit comes with a punch to remove the draft pin but I think it's too small a diameter (coupled with a chamfered end) to effectively push the pin out without flaring the end. I found an old drill chuck that had a pin that was closer to stock diameter, it seemed to work a little better at both knocking the pin out and relocating the hole for installation of the mountune® part. If you love your car, consider not doing this upgrade - you'll have to do things... bad things... After about 15 minutes of pounding the pin out... another 15 minutes of getting the pin back in and 30 minutes of reinstalling the intake elbows, etc. My hands are bleeding in several locations and I needed a shower to get the shame off. About 2.5 hours total if you care about your car...

With that being said, after all is said an done, the throw is definitely shorter. It doesn't feel any more difficult than stock during the gear change but I'm a little hesitant to really toss it around having changed all the geometry there. I'm sure I'll get used to it. I have a replacement solid shifter bracket bushing kit from Steeda but I'm not sure I want to install this anymore. I think a little bit of play in the system is going to be beneficial for longevity and lets be honest - the fractions of milliseconds that might be saved aren't going to affect my commute (or my 1/4 mile). All-said-and-done, the shorter throw is really nice and over time this will save my arm and wrist from the commute. I'm pretty happy with it so far.

Until next time:

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03/19/2017
mountune® Quick-Shift Arm

Note:
Okay, note to self... should have done this when I had the intake track apart the first time - putting it all back together is such a PITA.

The shift arm kit comes with a punch to remove the draft pin but I think it's too small a diameter (coupled with a chamfered end) to effectively push the pin out without flaring the end. I found an old drill chuck that had a pin that was closer to stock diameter, it seemed to work a little better at both knocking the pin out and relocating the hole for installation of the mountune® part. If you love your car, consider not doing this upgrade - you'll have to do things... bad things... After about 15 minutes of pounding the pin out... another 15 minutes of getting the pin back in and 30 minutes of reinstalling the intake elbows, etc. My hands are bleeding in several locations and I needed a shower to get the shame off. About 2.5 hours total if you care about your car...

With that being said, after all is said an done, the throw is definitely shorter. It doesn't feel any more difficult than stock during the gear change but I'm a little hesitant to really toss it around having changed all the geometry there. I'm sure I'll get used to it. I have a replacement solid shifter bracket bushing kit from Steeda but I'm not sure I want to install this anymore. I think a little bit of play in the system is going to be beneficial for longevity and lets be honest - the fractions of milliseconds that might be saved aren't going to affect my commute (or my 1/4 mile). All-said-and-done, the shorter throw is really nice and over time this will save my arm and wrist from the commute. I'm pretty happy with it so far.

Until next time:

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The only reason I did the bushings for the tranny was to give it a better feel. I am very glad I did! It feels 10x better than with the sloppy rubber bushings that were there before. I haven't done the ones underneath the shifter however as I don't want it tooo notchy so I compromised. I would try it out :)
 

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I would HIGHLY suggest you replace the shifter bushings. Both the trans bracket and the shifter base. At first I installed the trans bracket bushings and a steeda short throw plate on my car. Felt better than stock, but I wasnt entirely happy, and I also wanted to shorten the shifter. I just installed my boomba shifter as well as the shifter base bushings and removed the steeda plate. What a difference is all I can say. The shifts are SUPER crisp and precise. It feels so solid and connected. It sure was a pain in the arse to do, but the end result is well worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Everything I've read shows it as a direct fit. It's the same size and shape as the ST cover.


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I was able to get one for about $80CAD from an online Ford Parts store in Ontario. The part number is: G1FZ-6A949-B
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'll have to take it all apart again to install the oil separator. If I do, I'll probably give the bushings a shot...

After driving with the Shift Arm for a week or so now, I'm quite used to it and it feels really nice... there are times where it sticks, but that happened with the stock shift arm too and it's avoidable, only happens under really light shifting.
 

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I'll have to take it all apart again to install the oil separator. If I do, I'll probably give the bushings a shot...

After driving with the Shift Arm for a week or so now, I'm quite used to it and it feels really nice... there are times where it sticks, but that happened with the stock shift arm too and it's avoidable, only happens under really light shifting.
Sticks? Like left and right in neutral? If so add grease to the sockets on the cable ends where they push onto the tranny
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sticks? Like left and right in neutral? If so add grease to the sockets on the cable ends where they push onto the tranny
Nah, I didn't do a great job of explaining. The shift arm is weighted but if you don't throw it 'hard' enough the weights don't help. There are times when it takes a bit more to get the weights moving. I don't want to exaggerate what's happening though, a non-issue really. Just a quick clutch depression to realign everything and off you go. It happened a handful of times on the stock arm too, just a little amplified on the shorter arm.
 
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