2 posts above this. Im trying to make a table to show how easy this is if anyone wants to try it. We could easily add 20-30 ST Specific PIDs right from the start. The obd2 link has the same table so used that to which PID is compatible.

 

Is the OAR value A = 192 (while no other equation but just A) the "0" or "-1"?
Some say the KAM reset does set that value to "0" and I done reset by Forscan (PCM adaptive values reset). I had A value 192 and I still have 192 and after all what I tried how to make OAR adjust, it just is 192. Is the 192 decimal 0xc000 or not and if so then does the 0xc000 be equal to the -1 or 0 (as value from -1 to +1)?
I'm a little confused.
I also had just switched about 20 litres ago from Shell V-power (here at Finland I think it's just 98E5) to half of tank 95E10, so octane rating should not be full -1 while 95 RON is minimum told by Ford. The 0 could be more accurate.
I have Ford Focus ST 2013 ecoboost 2.0L with stock calibration updated by Ford (CM5A-14C204-AMM software calibration at HW: CM5A-12A650-AMK) and that has been dyno proved to give around 280 PS power and torque "curve" is almost flat.
There is just no sense while it should not give full -1 OAR with the gasoline in tank right now. Anyone?

 

Im not sure if OAR is a derived number or if it comes from a single sensor. Ive read the ST manual several times and i never found a sensor that flat out says its OAR. I could be wrong though.

 

It's not sensor. It's just number which tell PCM how motor has been working and gives advice how to deal with maps. Just like some knocking -> drop the value, or couple of misfires -> drop the value. Got high boost, no problems -> rise the value.

While I have equation which did represent value 192 as "100%" then while I got some misfires in tiny time window (by running something like seafoam to intake and lost some fires, just like virtually having bad gasoline) then that value drop to 0%.

Looks like there's values like:
0 (00) which is like Cobb AP or similar's value +1, meaning that motor is running bad and need all the tricks PCM can do to survive (like running 87 gasoline in USA). Kind of safe mode.

The 192 (C0) is like Cobb AP value 0 (zero point), meaning there is normal situation and full power available by stock map, SAE horses can be reached like while running with premium gasoline in USA.

From 192 to the 255 (FF) (which is like value -1 at AP) there's a little more power available while more positive adjustment is possible and some tricks can be done IF motor is running good enough by high boost and high load for long enough time -> give just a little more boost, more spark, etc...if something go wrong then it will just drop value and that will give PCM the base.

 

How OAR is used is as a calculated value.

This value is then used in several maps to adjust various things. For some tables, it's a lookup. For others, it's a multiplier.

I did post the correct DID before, it's DID 0x03E8. I've gotten a lot further on my ECU Reverse Engineering, but not as far as I had originally hoped. (I did say a December release of my software, but real life got in the way ).
I do have some maps reversed that I know are OAR referenced. I'll check tonight to see if I can find exactly what the equation is for the DID.

 

Just found out it's not a single value either. Sorry about some misinformation I post earlier.

Now I have "128,7%" with equation (((A*256)+B)/49152)*100. That does not rely much on value input from B, the A dominates and B is just 1/256 of sum or something like that.

The hex reply is 6203E8F71F so PID/DID 0x03E8 and value F71F which is A=247 and B=31.
That jump just from 0 to this value after motor warm up and one long hill with partial acceleration (actually not accelerating much but long with high gear).

So that is 278 out of 512 (or F71F out of FFFF, or whatever is the real used maximum).

The A byte seems to be from 0 to 255. Better working motor is higher value I suppose.
B byte seems to be lower, maybe these two bytes do actually different adjustments. Maybe A is just general timing adv and such and B is that multiplier? Not easy to find out that.

But what is the right one way to represent these as single value which does correlate to anything? How should we read these?
Or is there any matter, while just higher sum of values is the better anyway? Is it? Are both of these just 00 to FF while 0 is worse and FF is better, or does another switch from F to 0?

 

Hi.

At the moment I've got next values (all ofcourse starting 6203E8 because of same PID response):
C000 - while running for a while just normal way (95 RON)
???? - after couple of random misfires detected (I think it was 00?? but not sure, didn't take screenshot/log, equation below gave value "0" so byte 1 low...)
F71F - after that while reset ECU PCM learned (KAM reset) and running normal for couple of seconds (seems like this is 0 point of learning OAR?)
EF24 - after that while normal low speed (30-80 kph) use for couple of weeks and first time giving more load while 6th gear in (98 RON)
DA82 - after that while while running around 80-100% load with 6th gear in and almost full throttle for a while at motorway

Edit:
C646 - after that, about 100 km more driving and couple of 0,3 to 0,6 bar boost over 5 second perioids...

I'm puzzled.
I'm still not sure if that's correct and if F1F1 (247+247) is the "0" (or 100% if 0-200%). Or what is zero point and why A may rise while B decrease or vice versa...

 

so close! thanks for the hard work!

 

Maybe (1-((A+B)/247))*100 does give some rational values... It's based to -100 to +100% (like -1 and +1) and presumption that best value (-1 or -100%) is F1F1 and worst (+1 or +100%) is 0000. My best quess until now.

 

The equation wasn't what expected. Some new information. I was wrong.

I just figured out, that by every Finnish gasoline grade it will drop until value is C000 or misfires or knock. Just like before got misfires (by injecting too much petrol to intake) and reset after DTC (random misfire stuff).
So after recovering I got value F71F and then it start to decrease. Now it's back to C000.

I think that it will use both of values.
So for hex -> dec conversion we do (A+(B/256)). Then we have 0000 - FFFF value converted to real decimal value and divided by 256. (If you do calculate value*256 you get the full decimal value, for example C000 = 49152.)

I'm not sure of range. What is the most high and low hex you've got?

 

I know it's been a while, but I was just working on this last night again!

Would someone be able to try this equations out for size?
OAR:
ID: 2203E8
Formula: ((signed(A)*256)+B) / 16384
Min: -1
Max: 1

I believe it should match OAR that you receive from an AP. If anyone can test it that would be great as I don't have access to right now.
@jdub1981 @terae

 

Well, at least it seems to give legit value (-1 for me at the moment).
I personally like it more way 0-(((signed(A)*256)+B)/16384)*100 to give values (reversed) in -100% to 100% scale (so 100% will be full boost and -100% most cut power).

I'm sorry I can't verify other values atm because now I have had it permanently back there and gasoline grade which doesn't make any knock or misfires. So there's just the one value and no torque reduce...

Thanx Bugasu@Stratified - let's keep that if no other information will show up

 

@Bugasu@Stratified Big news according the Forscan Forums. Android Beta of Forscan coming in 1-2 weeks. Also, they DO NOT recommend the OBDLink MX WiFI for their software. Apparently there is some bug that in the hardware that makes it play nice with iphones but also messes with the connection profile that Forscan uses. I assume this is similiar to the SPP profile that bluetooth uses.

Basically, once Forscan is fully up and running on android I will most likely never use Torque again.

 

You weren't kidding @jdub1981, just installed the forscan android app and it has EVERYTHING! Can't see myself going back to Torque once i get comfortable using the new forscan app.

 

Has anybody figured out Cylinder Ign Correction ?

 

Is there a PID for shutter position? Would be nice to see if they ever close at all in the summer.

 

Sure is!
I looked for this for you.

Grill Shutter Commanded Position:
ID: 220707
Equation: A/255

Result is in percent commanded. This value is translated (and clipped by some minimums) and sent over a LIN bus directly to the grill shutters.

 

I've been trying to get boost to show up in torque but it's not working. I even added the Ford specific ones but it can't read the pid. I get a message stating that it can't read read or no response.

I'm driving a late model 2014. Does anyone have the pid and formula for a custom one?

 

Works just fine

 

You clearly have not browsed into every nook and cranny of this app. Everything you are looking for is in the settings.

Having said that, here is the adjustment area.

My settings may not be the same as yours. You may need to adjust the number a bit up or down.

 

I don't give up that easily and have explored the app and Googled for answers. I've edited my profile settings and even tried the three different values it hinted about. I'll try your value next.

 

The only other thing that might be a problem is a crappy elm. Most of the amazon ones are cheap chinese knockoffs. The company that makes the elm is based out of Canada and they typically sell the chips at higher prices than what the whole unit sells for on amazon. Im not saying you cant get good versions on there but not all elm327 are created equal.

 

That was my next thought. The obd settings in torque ***** about the cheap Chinese knockoff after I connect.

I would be open to finding a better quality one. Low profile too since my obd door is not removable.

 

I just bought this one that was recommended by torque and it was low profile. https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/smart-phone/obdlink-lx.html

$69.95 with free ship. Hopefully it works with FORScan too. It's not the MX though...

 

Mx is THE most recommended. I personally vouch for the MX. Works with Focccus and FORScan as well.

 

I thought the LX and MX were the same. LX doesn't support *Ford Medium-Speed CAN (MS-CAN). Does that matter too much for torque?

 

Not in the slightest for Torque. But once you start using Forscan you may MAY hit yourself for not speending a bit more on the MX.

Forscan is currently beta and can be downloaded only from the Forscan website. Very soon it will be in the play store though. Ive read mixxed reports about it not being free when it hits.

I cant temember if you said whether or not you were using the Pro version of Torque.

 

I may cancel the order and buy the MX. I misread something saying the LX was smaller. They are identical size.

I'm using Torque Pro. The current adapter I have is working with last week's beta of Forscan.

 

I dont know if there is something different between the 13 and 14 ST but if not then you can use the MX and do the clip release to get the door closed. Youll want to do this as well because the mx has a power save function so you can leave it plugged in indefinitely. I left mine plugged in for 6 months.

 

I dont know if there is something different between the 13 and 14 ST but if not then you can use the MX and do the clip release to get the door closed. Youll want to do this as well because the mx has a power save function so you can leave it plugged in indefinitely. I left mine plugged in for 6 months.

I tried to release the OBD II port with the MX attached so I can shut the door but I didn't have enough room.

I also tried the Boost with the MX but still no luck. Now I'm wondering if it's something with the car?

 

K good. If you have a laptop forscan for pc has way more function with the that version.
Supposedly some of those function will roll out to android soon

 

Got that too. I used FoCCCus and Forscan before. Want a mobile solution since I don't have an AP3 tune.

 

I also downloaded forscan. It has everything I need but ign corrections. Or is it called something else?

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

 

I believe ignition correction is also called timing or spark advance, and i saw both of those in the options.

 

is forscan the "new" way to go on this? I downloaded the lite version to make sure it reads my ELM device, if so i'll buy the full version. Cant try it out until lunch. Im hating I switched back to iOS now. I have an android tablet and and "extra" phone im using to do my pairing with my adapter at the moment.

 

I've played around with ForScan and it doesn't give you the customizing options like Torque to see multiple things at once. In ForScan you have to go in to each module to see what they offer, so you can't mix and match like you can with Torque. That's the biggest bummer to it, in my opinion. You can't customize options until it's connected, so that makes playing around with it even tougher.

Unless there is an option I'm not seeing somewhere?

 

Looking for the charge air temp. Went through the thread must have missed it. Can some post it up for me??

 

looking for the charge air temp. Went through the thread must have missed it. Can some post it up for me??

PID: 220461

Formula: ((((signed(A)*256)+B)/64)*1.8)+32

@xxx I updated the formula as per Stratified.

 

how accurate is this thing? the reviews dont sound very good.