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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went to my first track day last weekend. I had a great time but srewed up my brakes. The pads are jacked up and rotors are all grooved up. My car is a 2017 ST with 4000 miles. I have motul 600 fluid. I was driving pretty hard and aggressive and had a lot of brake fade. I would like to go the track a few times a year and my car is a daily driver.
Will some hawk pads, new rotors and a air duct work? Or do In need something like a wilwood set up which is pretty expensive. Will my stock wheels fit over wilwood calipers?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks
 

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Good tires stop the car. Good pads will not break down under high heat and maintain consistent performance. Ducting can help maintain consistency.

Moving to a larger brake setup will add more mass and thermal capabilities, and again consistent performance. Sometimes too more clamping force due to the larger diameter.
More pistons however often smaller in diameter will counteract the larger rotor.
The pistons give you even clamping force across the pads, and not necessarily more clamping force.

That said, id start with actual track pads, track rotors you'll throw away every few sessions and ducting. Bigger brakes are needed when you start to out drive the already upgraded brakes. You'll find on the track there are other issues you need to address before bigger brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The brakes are going to be my first issue. After finding solution for brakes I do plan on some other upgrades. Are there pads that will work on street and track? There were a lot of other stock cars that did'nt have brake issues who were going pretty fast. There were also people on the track that looked like they were on a drive through the park. Brembos may not be an option because I'm running two sets of stock rims. I do have a set of new firehawk indy 500s. They seemed pretty good. There was a modded ST there with race pads who also had a lot of fade. I don't want to make a change and have more issues?
 

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I hear you. I have my first track day at the end of July at Laguna, and while I have never tracked a car, I have raced motorcycles, and was pretty hard on the brakes.
I am concerned that if I cook the brakes that my day might be cut short, or even worse, damaged car. I would rather take the preventative route since it seems that the brakes are the weak link due to the torque vectoring (not sure if that is the right term) that engages your brakes when trying to accelerate hard out of slow corners.
I could live with heat soak, as that will not put me in a wall. But brakes failing is another story.
I am likely going the path of hate RS kit mentioned earlier. Though I am not sure how to get a kit at $550.

Mike
 

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I hear you. I have my first track day at the end of July at Laguna, and while I have never tracked a car, I have raced motorcycles, and was pretty hard on the brakes.
I am concerned that if I cook the brakes that my day might be cut short, or even worse, damaged car. I would rather take the preventative route since it seems that the brakes are the weak link due to the torque vectoring (not sure if that is the right term) that engages your brakes when trying to accelerate hard out of slow corners.
I could live with heat soak, as that will not put me in a wall. But brakes failing is another story.
I am likely going the path of hate RS kit mentioned earlier. Though I am not sure how to get a kit at $550.

Mike
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-brakes/97233-rs-brakes-install-tips-review-comparison.html
 

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This is what I plan on doing for my brakes. The G-Loc R6 pads are designed for autocross, R8 is for open track events. G-Loc has many of other pads as well. This brake set up with some RE-11s or equivalent will be nice. I am getting the Brembo's in the natural silver color and powdercoating them gloss black along with the rear calipers. So basically my set up will be RS Brembos up front and Frankenbrake rear. If you select to go with RS pads in the front and rear the price could be cheaper as well. I plan on not using the RS brake ducts and doing the DIY Krydex, Velossa Tech ducts, or a DIY brake duct set up. I am still undecided.

brakes.JPG
 

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The brakes are going to be my first issue. After finding solution for brakes I do plan on some other upgrades. Are there pads that will work on street and track? There were a lot of other stock cars that did'nt have brake issues who were going pretty fast. There were also people on the track that looked like they were on a drive through the park. Brembos may not be an option because I'm running two sets of stock rims. I do have a set of new firehawk indy 500s. They seemed pretty good. There was a modded ST there with race pads who also had a lot of fade. I don't want to make a change and have more issues?

Look at the Hawk DTC line of pads for the track. Do not pass go if you thought hawk HPS/HP+/5.0 were track pads.
Carbotech XP series pads
Ferodo 2500 (more of a street/track pad)

Don't be fooled about someone running "Race pads," You have no idea what they were, and could have been just agressive street pads.

Track pads and rotors are consumables. You will toss them after less than a handful of events. Just like how you'll be replacing your brake fluid most likely after an event. Ideally you have a dedicated set of rotors and pads you swap before/after each event. I'm serious. They have to be bed-in properly to work, and just swapping pads alone before/after will not be enough. It's a very small amount of money to pay for some extra rotors, and you should be doing a car inspection and general maintenance before a track day, so this only adds maybe an hour to that task.
 

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Swapping pads at the track is going to be so much easier with the RS brakes or any brakes with the same style. You only have to Remove two pins and the bridge bolt and you don't have to deal with stupid anti-rattle spring on the ST. Although compressing the pistons will be slightly harder if you don't have a dual spreader (https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/lil-29100/overview/). You also have to accept the fact that rotors will be damaged from hard use; luckily RS rotors are cheap.
 

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Swapping pads at the track is going to be so much easier with the RS brakes or any brakes with the same style. You only have to Remove two pins and the bridge bolt and you don't have to deal with stupid anti-rattle spring on the ST. Although compressing the pistons will be slightly harder if you don't have a dual spreader (https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/lil-29100/overview/). You also have to accept the fact that rotors will be damaged from hard use; luckily RS rotors are cheap.
That tool looks awesome.

Sent from another garage.
 

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You can push pistons back with the old pads. You don't need a special tool :p

Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.
-Archimedes

Pad changes even on two pots, are just two bolts... millennials. I'm getting old.
 

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Or 5mm spacers.

Sent from another garage.
5mm spacers work just fine to clear RS brakes.
Oh great. I somehow missed that on all the RS brake upgrade threads? thanks for the info.

The wheels I really want are 17s but I might have to rethink everything now,.. I just really dont want 19s. I do know most aftermarket wheels with more spacing will work tho
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It sounds like changing out pads and rotors for events will probably be the best way handle this. I do have two sets of stock wheels, so I can experiment with tires. It's a bit of a bummer the stock brakes won't work. There were lots of cars and heavy ass challengers out there that didn't have any problems.
Any suggestions for a new everyday set up to replace the burned up ones?
Something like dtc-60 for track days?
 
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