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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I’m having issues with my 13 focus st. It’s got a 2867r and any common bolt ons. It’s been like that for about 2 years now. The car in the last 6 months has been getting the p2122 which is pedal sensor 1 out of range low. Also accompanied by the generic code for sensor voltage (don’t have the code in hand but it’s not important) the car drives fine but the moment it gets hot it’ll start going into limp mode. I’ve change the pedal, the throttle body and the ecu without successfully fixing the car. I gave it to ford and they had it for 3 weeks and gave it back blaming “the car is heavily modified” I have been doing a bunch of research and I haven’t found that many people have had this issue so I’m stuck. Now that it’s cold outside the car runs like a champ for a while but will fail after a bit of driving, and once it fails it’ll do it constantly. In the summer I can’t make it down the road without it failing. Also when letting off the clutch to drive I need to give extra gas, almost making it look like I don’t know how to drive the car because it bucks and doesn’t seem like it wants to go. So I’m really thinking it’s a fueling problem and I’ve just been pulling my hair out throwing parts at it and putting it around hoping it fails completely and throws a different code. ? AH and also i recently changed out the in tank fuel pump to make sure maybe the filter wasn’t clogged!
Thanks in advance if anyone has even the least bit of info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update looked behind the motor just a glance today and I see my secondary o2 sensor harness melted. So assuming I see one melted harness there’s probably more. Definitely being external wastegated it’ll have little space to not melt things so hopefully that’ll be my problem!
 

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Update looked behind the motor just a glance today and I see my secondary o2 sensor harness melted. So assuming I see one melted harness there’s probably more. Definitely being external wastegated it’ll have little space to not melt things so hopefully that’ll be my problem!
Did you ever figure out the issue? My car has the same code and i just replaced the pedal and it didn’t work. Car will not move, it idles fine but will not accelerate car just sits at idle
 

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Is the P2122 the only active code?
There's actually two separate TPS inside the AP. They are offset to determine how much to move the TB blade.

Has anything recently been done to the car before this happened?
 

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Did this immediately happen after the installation or shortly after?

Has the TB been upgraded or is it stock? You also mentioned AUX fueling. List out your full list of mods, tuner and year of your ride.

Also make sure that nothing is physically damaged from the BT installation. Like the OP experienced.

J
 

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Did this immediately happen after the installation or shortly after?

Has the TB been upgraded or is it stock? You also mentioned AUX fueling. List out your full list of mods, tuner and year of your ride.

Also make sure that nothing is physically damaged from the BT installation. Like the OP experienced.

J
What’s OP? And
CNT catless DP
AWE track exhaust
Depo racing 3.5 fmic
Cpe intake
Gtx 2971 .86 ar
4 port radium aux
Took it to a bunch of local idiots and they messed it up i had like 13 codes car smelled bad like fuel at idle. The AFR at idle was 9. When they started the car it would go WOT and would’nt rev past 2500 rpm.. Took it to JT grail in Tennessee they fixed everything. Drove it home 7 hours and car bucked at partial throttle. AFR at WOT is 10-44 which is good. I got a code for o2 sensor i thought that was it. Replaced both and still have the issue. Car was jerking on the way home but i found a sweet spot to keep the pedal at so it wouldn’t jerk. Got the other codes. I hit a few bumps an hour from home and i had to pull over it got so bad with bucking. Had to keep it in higher rpm. Pulled over, cleared codes and drove the rest of the way home. Was driving the other night and was close to my house and the pedal stopped working completely it took a few seconds of flooring to bring the rpm up. Car will start fine now just the pedal doesn’t work at all i floored it and nothing
 

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Did this immediately happen after the installation or shortly after?

Has the TB been upgraded or is it stock? You also mentioned AUX fueling. List out your full list of mods, tuner and year of your ride.

Also make sure that nothing is physically damaged from the BT installation. Like the OP experienced.

J
Stock TB 2014 focus st Bryan Tyson at JST
 

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What are you using to control the Aux fueling? How exactly is it tied into things?
 

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Wonder if it’s a faulty pedal. I mean they do stick and cause rev hang what other issues can they create. Just an idea could always just take the pedal appart and throw some white lithium grease on friction points and see if it helps. Maybe something got caught in there that’s throwing off the sensor.
 

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Was the car tuned before the BT? Can you try reflashing back to a tune before the BT? Not to go driving on, just to check the TB / APP.

But since the active codes are around the APP let's look at how it works.
380709


The APP is compromised of two different potentiometers. They are opposites of one another.

APP1 receives it's voltage reference (5 vdc VRE) from the PCM on Pin 1 and Ground RTN on Pin 3. The Actual signal back to the PCM is on Pin 2.

APP2 is VREF on Pin 6, Ground on Pin 4 and PMC return from Pin 5.

Connector C2040
380710


This runs though the BJB (battery junction box) on connector C1035C
380711

380712


So if you look at the BJB the the APP has 3 different connection points in total.

380713

380714

380715


By the sound of it your TB is locked out.

Do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)? I can walk you through what to check if you're interested?

J
 

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Scratch my dumb suggestion I’m driving just read you replaced the pedal and TB as well.
That just means that you're dedicated!
 

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Now something has crossed my mind. I had a friend years ago who had a Chevy cobalt SS. Every time his car got hot it would buck and jerk every where. Turns out his coolant temp sensor was going out and messing with the fuel trims. I doubt that’s your issue but just food for thought sense it only seems to appear when the car reaches operating temp. :/
 

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Was the car tuned before the BT? Can you try reflashing back to a tune before the BT? Not to go driving on, just to check the TB / APP.

But since the active codes are around the APP let's look at how it works.
View attachment 380709

The APP is compromised of two different potentiometers. They are opposites of one another.

APP1 receives it's voltage reference (5 vdc VRE) from the PCM on Pin 1 and Ground RTN on Pin 3. The Actual signal back to the PCM is on Pin 2.

APP2 is VREF on Pin 6, Ground on Pin 4 and PMC return from Pin 5.

Connector C2040
View attachment 380710

This runs though the BJB (battery junction box) on connector C1035C
View attachment 380711
View attachment 380712

So if you look at the BJB the the APP has 3 different connection points in total.

View attachment 380713
View attachment 380714
View attachment 380715

By the sound of it your TB is locked out.

Do you have a DMM (digital multimeter)? I can walk you through what to check if you're interested?

J
Yes i have one.
 

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Have ever attempted to recalibrate the TB? Couldn't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Did you ever figure out the issue? My car has the same code and i just replaced the pedal and it didn’t work. Car will not move, it idles fine but will not accelerate car just sits at idle
I apologize for not responding sooner, I haven’t checked the forums in a while, meant to come back and update but never did.
So anyway I found the fuel pressure sensor had some melted and shredded wires in the harness behind the motor. A steel braided hose for the big turbo rubbed through it. 🤦‍♂️ So I have it running much better without most of the codes. But I still have the accelerator pedal sensor comparison code here and there, it seems to be when it’s calling for extra fueling so for example it will be more likely to fail when I have the ac on.
 

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I apologize for not responding sooner, I haven’t checked the forums in a while, meant to come back and update but never did.
So anyway I found the fuel pressure sensor had some melted and shredded wires in the harness behind the motor. A steel braided hose for the big turbo rubbed through it. 🤦‍♂️ So I have it running much better without most of the codes. But I still have the accelerator pedal sensor comparison code here and there, it seems to be when it’s calling for extra fueling so for example it will be more likely to fail when I have the ac on.
I replaced the throttle body about 3 weeks ago and had no issues since
 
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