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Discussion Starter #1
Hey FST Community:

Popped a code(Turbo wastegate A high)literally 2 minutes after the install and first start. I believe it may be the Boost control solenoid's vacuum lines. I was kind of confused when I was following this step in edge's write up.

So here's so quick question that will help me fix this in like 30 seconds.

If you run the BCS as shown in Go46's/Edge's write up do you delete one or both hard lines that run to the top of the valve cover? If so which ones?

I currently have one capped off but though the other had to be connected using the same "T" as on the stock turbo.

Thanks in advanced for any help!


Anthony


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Discussion Starter #2
I can't imagine no1 else has ever come across this.... I'm going to get under the car today and make sure the lines for BCS are routed correctly to the intake/IWG/Turbo. If they are I'll try capping both lines from the upper solenoid on the valve cover and see if that does anything.


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Discussion Starter #3
Just double checked and all the lines are good in there correct spot as per the plumbing diagram.


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Any chance you have the boost solenoid backwards? I don't have big turbo experience yet but if you are getting at code that fast it has to be something hooked up wrong. I'm taking that 2 minutes means just idling?
 

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Popped a code(Turbo wastegate A high)literally 2 minutes after the install and first start. I believe it may be the Boost control solenoid's vacuum lines.
That's an electrical code. Either your wastegate solenoid is unplugged or you have a bad one. Or less likely unless you're a hamfist, you damaged some wiring during install.



If you run the BCS as shown in Go46's/Edge's write up do you delete one or both hard lines that run to the top of the valve cover? If so which ones?

I currently have one capped off but though the other had to be connected using the same "T" as on the stock turbo.
Depends on how you're running your BOV...
One hard line goes from compressor reference to the factory BPV solenoid. The other hard line is a return from same solenoid to run the factory BPV. If you didn't label them at disassembly, the line that freely hangs lower went to the BPV.

If you're using the solenoid to run your BOV, you'll delete the lower hard line because you need to run a new hose to the BOV spot. At that point it's just a spare hose hanging out in the engine compartment. I'd cap it off so nothing gets inside.

If you're using intake manifold (symposer delete) to run your BOV, you can delete both hard lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am running off of SS delete and currently have the BOV hardline capped and the other hardline hooked up to the Hotside with the "T" vacuum just like the stock K03 did. I'm really just interested in if the car is safe to drive. It's my DD, I'm not letting it get into boost because of what might happen since the BCS isn't regulating the pressure according to that code. I know the BCS is plugged in and I can't see how I damaged the wiring when everything is so close the the BCS location so I didn't really have to move it much. I'll try capping the other line and see if that does anything. Maybe the tuner disabled both ports in my tune and since I have the one hooked up its throwing a code.


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Assuming the BCS is plumbed correctly, you should be safe to drive. The BCS non-energized state will run wastegate spring pressure only. Note, that's not the case if you remove a vac line from the wastegate!!!

Did you install a new/different BCS when you did the turbo install? If so, try putting the stock BCS back in. Also check to be sure the plug is fully seated. Start simple.

Since you're using SS delete, you can safely delete both hard lines. I've seen several people physically remove the lines from the car for a cleaner install. You must cap the open ports on the BPV solenoid so you don't incur a vacuum leak.

Your tuner can't disable one or both ports of your BPV solenoid, they can only disable solenoid control from the ECU. I know you're focused on vacuum lines right now, and it's good to verify, but the DTC you're receiving is not complaining about vacuum lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Stock BCS, I'll double check the sensor/ harness connection when I cap the other line later tonight. I'll keep everybody posted


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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Capped both hardlines. Still pops the code. BCS is routed correctly and wiring looks fine. Pretty lost at this point.
 

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Capped both hardlines. Still pops the code.
Not surprised. As I said, that code is an electrical fault, and no amount of vacuum line rerouting is going to fix it. It sounds like you're not comfortable with electrical stuff, since you seem to be avoiding it.

Here are a handful of possibilities:
1. Driver circuit inside ECU is damaged. Require ECU repair/replace. Highly unlikely.
2. Wiring between ECU and BCS damaged. Verify voltage on signal wire and solid ground on the other. Also unlikely.
3. Electrical connector damaged. Sometimes pins can get bent or back out. Highly likely.
4. BCS solenoid damaged. Will need to remove from car and bench test. Highly likely.

If you don't already own a decent multimeter, now's a good time to buy/borrow one. You're going to need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not at all uncomfortable with electrical, just wanted to make sure everything was good on my installation end before I put it back on a lift(Mind you all my lifts are tied up right now, hence why I've avoided doing any electrical stuff). I'll get in on the lift once this Mitsubishi is finished and I can get it back on the lift.


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Discussion Starter #12
Finally cleared up some stuff in the shop and was able to get the car on the lift. Pulled the BCS and tested it, I could audibly hear the switch flipping when tapping the connectors with a 12v lead from the battery. I also blew in the Wastegate port and made sure the valves were opening correctly. I used a voltmeter on the + port of the connector for the BCS on the wiring harness and picked up 12v when using the vehicle chassis as ground, but when I use the connectors - port, I get 0v which I would assume is how it should be when the car is not in boosted region as I tested(Ignition on no start). Only thing I can limit it down to now is a short on the negative connector port in the wiring harness. Doe anyone have the service manual to tell me what the corresponding voltages should be and or troubleshooting procedures for the BCS.


Thanks,

Anthony


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Discussion Starter #13
Anyone have any ideas? I checked the resistance at the BCS, 24.3ohms which seems within an acceptable range. I'm going to bypass the wiring harness connected and use quick connects to hard wire the BCS to the harness instead of plugging into the connection. I'll update once the boost goes up or the engine light comes on again.


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