[Slidsnke]

Hi all

Bit of a weird one 2015 mk3 st

Took it for a blast and all of a sudden it seemed a bit flat power wise

Got the codes read and then was some about timing and other stuff cleared to then see what comes back

Only faults about lost connector to bcm, passenger door, aipm and the instruments

looked at the battery today and both terminals are corroded - as you can half see in the photos the APIM is going into saver mode when being scanned but not sure if thats normal when being read

its a DV6T-10655-AB which i think is 590CCA which not sure if this is correct for the car

However when I was testing it I was in 4th put my foot down doing 60mph and it didn't even move

My mechanic has said drive it until it throws an error and bring it back....

When I start the car it sounds fine and idles fine

Do you think this could be electrical gremlins? I'm thinking this as the car seems to run fine and alongside the connection faults with other components that are working fine Or do you think it could be something else

Thank you for your time

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

Sounds like a loss of electrical to me.

Key not recognized, vehicle won't start...

*Updated to add mention of the AGS causing a communications problem with the alternator and battery light. 11/28/2020 05/27/2021 - BMS manual reset procedure added courtesy of @ddfred 07/12/2021 Ford part number for fuse added 07/18/2021 Added full location, description, and Ford part...

www.focusst.org

 

[Slidsnke]

Sounds like a loss of electrical to me.

Key not recognized, vehicle won't start...

*Updated to add mention of the AGS causing a communications problem with the alternator and battery light. 11/28/2020 05/27/2021 - BMS manual reset procedure added courtesy of @ddfred 07/12/2021 Ford part number for fuse added 07/18/2021 Added full location, description, and Ford part...

www.focusst.org

That's what I'm thinking as mechanically it starts and turns over smooth as you like but has the issues with electrics

Thank you

 

[rob99rt]

(Snip)
However when I was testing it I was in 4th put my foot down doing 40 and it didn't even move

Please don't go wide open throttle in 4th at that low of a speed. That's deep into LSPI territory and you can damage the pistons doing that. 3rd gear at 40, that's on the edge of safe .. But 4th? That's asking to crack ringlands.

 

[Slidsnke]

Please don't go wide open throttle in 4th at that low of a speed. That's deep into LSPI territory and you can damage the pistons doing that. 3rd gear at 40, that's on the edge of safe .. But 4th? That's asking to crack ringlands.

60 not 40

 

[rob99rt]

60 not 40

60 is fine in 4th, but your original post said 40 so I was a bit concerned...

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

60 is fine in 4th, but your original post said 40 so I was a bit concerned...

40 kmph = 24 mph
60 kmph = 37 mph

@Slidsnke keep it above 3k revs mate and outa boost in higher gears.

 

[Slidsnke]

60 is fine in 4th, but your original post said 40 so I was a bit concerned...

40 kmph = 24 mph
60 kmph = 37 mph

@Slidsnke keep it above 3k revs mate and outa boost in higher gears.

I'm UK mate so MPH rather than KPH

 

[Slidsnke]

Fecking car, so this is what its currently complaining about however the timing fault has not reappeared and the car seems to drive ok

engine sound control monitor status 5 loss of monitor line input
misfire rpm 861 engine running time 1:44
evaporative emmisson canister purge fault
crankcase pressure sensor curcuit is currently unreliable
equivvalence ratio lambada bank 1 sensor 1
engine coolant temprature sensor out of read codes range p1116
exhaust temprature out of range p1127
Brake switch out of codes range p1703
Clutch Switch Out Of Read Codes Range p170A


Lost communication with body control module
lost communitcation with door control module
control module communication bus off
HVAC
intake camshaft position timing over retarded (bank1)
IPC fault
PDM fault
PCM DTC 1

 

[Sobro]

looked at the battery today and both terminals are corroded - as you can half see in the photos the APIM is going into saver mode when being scanned but not sure if thats normal when being read

its a DV6T-10655-AB which i think is 590CCA which not sure if this is correct for the car

My mechanic has said drive it until it throws an error and bring it back....

I didn't see you report any attempted fixes yet. Start with getting the battery terminals cleaned and BMS replaced. Tell your "mechanic" to just do it then run your scans. Why he'd tell you to wait for codes is ridiculous when you have obvious corrosion at the battery. These cars are very sensitive to voltage problems.

If you're still having problems replace the megafuses in the High Voltage Junction Box next to the battery and clean up ALL of your grounds.

Your car might have ground issues

A little history. I replaced all the splices in my harness a year and a half ago. I never had idle issues or any other for that matter. In the last couple months I installed a aux controller and noticed the car doing weird things. I put it on a dyno last Wednesday and couldn't get AFR's to...

www.focusst.org

 

[Slidsnke]

I didn't see you report any attempted fixes yet. Start with getting the battery terminals cleaned and BMS replaced. Tell your "mechanic" to just do it then run your scans. Why he'd tell you to wait for codes is ridiculous when you have obvious corrosion at the battery. These cars are very sensitive to voltage problems.

If you're still having problems replace the megafuses in the High Voltage Junction Box next to the battery and clean up ALL of your grounds.

Your car might have ground issues

A little history. I replaced all the splices in my harness a year and a half ago. I never had idle issues or any other for that matter. In the last couple months I installed a aux controller and noticed the car doing weird things. I put it on a dyno last Wednesday and couldn't get AFR's to...

www.focusst.org

When we plugged it in the first time we didn't check the battery tbf, the car seems to be driving fine ATM though which is really weird, it did absolutely piss it down the day before i had the codes come up

I personally think its electrical because the issue would still be there if it was mechanical but my mechanic disagrees and hes been doing this 30+ years i trust his judgment more than my own :L

he seems to think the electrical is a seperate issue and that was why he wanted it driven until it errors because at the moment the only codes are

engine sound control monitor status 5 loss of monitor line input
misfire rpm 861 engine running time 1:44
evaporative emmisson canister purge fault
crankcase pressure sensor curcuit is currently unreliable
equivvalence ratio lambada bank 1 sensor 1
engine coolant temprature sensor out of read codes range p1116
exhaust temprature out of range p1127
Brake switch out of codes range p1703
Clutch Switch Out Of Read Codes Range p170A
Lost communication with body control module
lost communitcation with door control module
control module communication bus off
HVAC
IPC fault
PDM fault

the cam pos fault hasnt come back and the car hasnt bogged down since

 

[MtnMan]

Time for new mechanic

 

[Slidsnke]

Time for new mechanic

Why? hes been nothing but spot on with all my cars for years.

 

[MtnMan]

Why? hes been nothing but spot on with all my cars for years.

Failure to fully understand and appreciate how bus communication in modern cars works, 5v control, the sensitivity of the electronics, etc.

 

[Slidsnke]

Failure to fully understand and appreciate how bus communication in modern cars works, 5v control, the sensitivity of the electronics, etc.

I get that, his boy did say he hates electrical work and he's not done any of it for me before but everything he has done previously on my money pit mondeo ST and the misses mondeo has been very good and very well priced and has done it in emergency when I have needed it as before covid I had to drive to the office for work

And the other bit is it hasn't cost me anything for him to take a look neither I haven't spoken to him since the initial code reads though as he's incredibly busy ATM with other responsibilities

I have brought some dielectric grease and stuff to clean the terminals and a multimeter to check the fuses etc though

As I have looked at the error codes and one of the reoccuring causes is electrics/wiring for pretty much everything that is displayed so gonna give it a once over there's lots of stuff on here that will help thank god

 

[Slidsnke]

I didn't see you report any attempted fixes yet. Start with getting the battery terminals cleaned and BMS replaced. Tell your "mechanic" to just do it then run your scans. Why he'd tell you to wait for codes is ridiculous when you have obvious corrosion at the battery. These cars are very sensitive to voltage problems.

If you're still having problems replace the megafuses in the High Voltage Junction Box next to the battery and clean up ALL of your grounds.

Your car might have ground issues

A little history. I replaced all the splices in my harness a year and a half ago. I never had idle issues or any other for that matter. In the last couple months I installed a aux controller and noticed the car doing weird things. I put it on a dyno last Wednesday and couldn't get AFR's to...

www.focusst.org

I'll go through that should be able to do that myself tbf thank you bud

 

[SSgtjrobertson]

I'll go through that should be able to do that myself tbf thank you bud

The two 50 amp Midi bolt on fuses that power the BCM (body control module) have been a known culprit for electrical issues.

The post I referenced earlier will show which I'm referring to.

 

[Slidsnke]

The two 50 amp Midi bolt on fuses that power the BCM (body control module) have been a known culprit for electrical issues.

The post I referenced earlier will show which I'm referring to.

Thank you Ill have to pick some up in case they are dodgy

 

[Slidsnke]

so update on the situation, cleaned up the battery cables and the terminals, the negative monitor was not very corroded tbf the front was, the cables themselves didnt look like acid had seeped or the battery bay

the fuses in the junction box tested fine, however now the terminals have been cleaned up and the white cable relocated the APIM error code has gone

My reader is unable to check the BCM (not a feature of my reader) though so will need to have that read.

PCM is only showing P1703:00 AND P170A:00 Brake and clutch switch out of self-test range

The other point of concern for me is the evap purge canister purge fault

This is what im seeing the following in the live data whilst going for a drive after the battery maintence, from a 10 min monitoring of a spirited drive still accelerates badly but very intermittent

Commanded Evap Purge(%) this is constantly changing
Evap Emmission Canister Purge Fault "Yes Error"
Evap Emmision Cannister Vent Valve "OFF"
Evap Emmision Cannister Vent Valve "0%"

should the commanded and actual be matching? if so if this is off then this is dead by the looks of it

i have had a look to see if i can replace myself and it looks easy enough the existing one has green clips and there is yellow markings on some bolts and parts on the car including the evap purge assembly is this normal as i thought the OEM part has white clips or is that irrelevant

and how much could this part affect performance, could it cause hesitation and misfire?

or is there anything else i should be looking for in the PCM stream

Thank you

 

[ddfred]

so update on the situation, cleaned up the battery cables and the terminals, the negative monitor was not very corroded tbf the front was, the cables themselves didnt look like acid had seeped or the battery bay

the fuses in the junction box tested fine, however now the terminals have been cleaned up and the white cable relocated the APIM error code has gone

My reader is unable to check the BCM (not a feature of my reader) though so will need to have that read.

PCM is only showing P1703:00 AND P170A:00 Brake and clutch switch out of self-test range

The other point of concern for me is the evap purge canister purge fault

This is what im seeing the following in the live data whilst going for a drive after the battery maintence, from a 10 min monitoring of a spirited drive still accelerates badly but very intermittent

Commanded Evap Purge(%) this is constantly changing
Evap Emmission Canister Purge Fault "Yes Error"
Evap Emmision Cannister Vent Valve "OFF"
Evap Emmision Cannister Vent Valve "0%"

should the commanded and actual be matching? if so if this is off then this is dead by the looks of it

i have had a look to see if i can replace myself and it looks easy enough the existing one has green clips and there is yellow markings on some bolts and parts on the car including the evap purge assembly is this normal as i thought the OEM part has white clips or is that irrelevant

and how much could this part affect performance, could it cause hesitation and misfire?

or is there anything else i should be looking for in the PCM stream

Thank you

The purge valve is basically a maintenance item. I changed mine at 50,000 miles and I have a spare that I keep on hand because I know I will need it. Clip colors are irrevevant, as you stated. Yes it can cause misfire and hesitation when it's not working properly, and yours looks as if it is not.