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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Make sense, thats why I wonder if this idea would work. i'll have to test the car out and monitor the different radiator fan speed at higher speed to test this one out.

I'll try to source a good radiator, but i wonder if it will work as good as we thought it will. Thicker radiator tends to limit the air flow even more isnt it? With our limited air flow in front, wonder how much will that help with the car.
I have given this a bit of test.. at higher speed 150-160kmh with the A/C on the fan will still ramp up to almost max speed nonetheless.. with A/C off, it will still hovers around 40% duty cycle around 90 deg Celsius coolant temp.

So my suspicion might be correct after all. Air is drawn in with the fans as needed depending on the coolant temp. So theoretically as long as the added fans are controlled with the same controller as the radiator fan, it should draw in a bit more air in?
 

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Do you still have the active grill shutters in place or have you removed them?
 

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I’ve removed the fins for the shutter. Just the outer shroud left
Exactly my thoughts, if you ripped out the lower half of the shutters, then your top shutters were most likely just closed. Im trying to remember the ags system setup as far as the motor and controls. If the motor was no longer intact, then youd be suffocating the car with closed shutters.
 
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Exactly my thoughts, if you ripped out the lower half of the shutters, then your top shutters were most likely just closed. Im trying to remember the ags system setup as far as the motor and controls. If the motor was no longer intact, then youd be suffocating the car with closed shutters.
When i took my lower half off, i did have to anchor the upper half open because they did close on their own naturally when you let go of the control rod. This may very well be whats happening to the OPs car.
 

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You might just have a bubble in the coolant hoses. Try burping the sytem before throwing parts at the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Exactly my thoughts, if you ripped out the lower half of the shutters, then your top shutters were most likely just closed. Im trying to remember the ags system setup as far as the motor and controls. If the motor was no longer intact, then youd be suffocating the car with closed shutters.
Top shutters had the fins ripped off as well. Just the outer shroud left
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
You might just have a bubble in the coolant hoses. Try burping the sytem before throwing parts at the problem.
I will flush the coolant again and this time running plain water with redline water wetter only.
Lets see if that solves the problem.
Any idea how to burp the system? I did let the car run with the reservoir tank cap open for sometime when i first flushed the system.
 

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I will flush the coolant again and this time running plain water with redline water wetter only.
Lets see if that solves the problem.
Any idea how to burp the system? I did let the car run with the reservoir tank cap open for sometime when i first flushed the system.
I'd probably run 10% radiator fluid plus the water wetter if it were me, but you may be able to get away with just water wetter and straight water because the redline stuff has anti corrosion properties. I'd definitely monitor the water color, though, and if it gets tinted brown at all, I'd flush it all out and go with a 10% minimum radiator fluid ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I'd probably run 10% radiator fluid plus the water wetter if it were me, but you may be able to get away with just water wetter and straight water because the redline stuff has anti corrosion properties. I'd definitely monitor the water color, though, and if it gets tinted brown at all, I'd flush it all out and go with a 10% minimum radiator fluid ratio.
Where im at, radiator fluid that works as antifreeze wasnt really needed.
I've checked the label on the redline water wetter, seems okay to use with water only. My only concern was the lubrication the radiator fluid provide for the pumps other parts(irrc), i do wonder if the lack of it will cause some premature failure on these parts.
 

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Right, I'm with you on the antifreeze concerns since it's so hot where you live. I'm more concerned about the lubrication and corrosion issues you might have running just straight water and water wetter. The water pump needs some fluid in there that acts as a bit of a lubricant, and straight water definitely won't do that.

I don't know anybody who's run the combo you'll be running since I've always lived in climates where freezing is an issue 5-6 months of the year, so unfortunately I don't have any first or second-hand experience to tell you if that will cause corrosion or not. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 

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I will flush the coolant again and this time running plain water with redline water wetter only.
Lets see if that solves the problem.
Any idea how to burp the system? I did let the car run with the reservoir tank cap open for sometime when i first flushed the system.

Duece McCracken can verify if the instructions are correct. From a quick site search I found this:

Burp the system by leaving the cap off the reservoir and turn the heater on high and let it idle till the thermostat opens.
 

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The AGS even with fins off still blocks airflow. What FMIC are you running, some are pretty thick and cause cooling issues under track conditions.

I would also not run straight water it might kill the water pump. I did use water wetter with coolant in my fox body mustang and it dropped the temp 10-15 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
The AGS even with fins off still blocks airflow. What FMIC are you running, some are pretty thick and cause cooling issues under track conditions.

I would also not run straight water it might kill the water pump. I did use water wetter with coolant in my fox body mustang and it dropped the temp 10-15 degrees.
Im running one those generic mishimoto j line intercooler with some custom piping. And I suspect it will have something to do with the overheating problem as well.

i have just flushed the coolant and added water wetter yesterday. On the way back from the mechanic, I saw 103 deg c ?? well doesn’t help when the ambient temp was around 40 yesterday. But I have a slight suspicion that the water wetter helped the heat transfer from the engine to the coolant, but the radiator still can’t get rid of the heat fast enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Right, I'm with you on the antifreeze concerns since it's so hot where you live. I'm more concerned about the lubrication and corrosion issues you might have running just straight water and water wetter. The water pump needs some fluid in there that acts as a bit of a lubricant, and straight water definitely won't do that.

I don't know anybody who's run the combo you'll be running since I've always lived in climates where freezing is an issue 5-6 months of the year, so unfortunately I don't have any first or second-hand experience to tell you if that will cause corrosion or not. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Probably had enough coolant left in the engine as I was told by the mechanic he only pour in roughly 2L of water with the water wetter.
I didn’t bother to drain the system completely before adding in water and water wetter
 

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Im running one those generic mishimoto j line intercooler with some custom piping. And I suspect it will have something to do with the overheating problem as well.

i have just flushed the coolant and added water wetter yesterday. On the way back from the mechanic, I saw 103 deg c ?? well doesn’t help when the ambient temp was around 40 yesterday. But I have a slight suspicion that the water wetter helped the heat transfer from the engine to the coolant, but the radiator still can’t get rid of the heat fast enough.
I've seen mine go to around 220 in the heat of summer (36-39 C), which is around 104 C, so that's close to what you were seeing. I'm using the stock intercooler, too, so there's nothing blocking my radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Upgrade the Radiator and add an aftermarket oil cooler. When you add an aftermarket cooler delete the factory one. You can swap in a 2.0L duratec oil filter housing to replace the oem cooler unit.

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Hey man, it's been a while. I was wondering if I can just bypass the coolant line to the oil cooler instead?
Or you have any reference for the oil filter housing parts number that will fit this use?
I'm quite interested to get an oil cooler to solve the overheating problem.
I'm currently working on getting the diy radiator shroud to replace the stock ones and also the grill shutter shroud and a tiny 6" push radiator fan just behind the crash bar. I guess it's some cheap mods to see if it helps with the cooling..
 
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