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Discussion Starter #1
Are there some unwritten rules or key items that should be replaced or upgraded when replacing/upgrading springs and coil-overs? Wanting to go with the Bilstein B14 setup. Have no specific target on how low, but I have no interest in slamming it. Are there things that are required or 'highly recommended' to have a great set-up, get a proper alignment, and other things of that nature?

I'm probably looking more for recommendations and items that are needed to have a quality setup vice just upgrading to the best of everything, if you know what I mean.

Thanks guys.
 

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I have a Coilover setup on the way soon as well, and was going to start a thread like this. Thanks for going ahead and getting it out there.
 

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Other than the factory one-time use stuff like various bolts and things, there isn't much you would need to swap, unless you're looking to upgrade something else while you're in there. Like swaybars, or adding toe/camber arms.

On one hand, do it once while you're in there. On the other, do it piece meal to get a better understanding of what parts change what characteristic...

Just being lower, on stiffer springs will reduce dive and roll. That's a win. The factory alignment, while camber limited, is fine after lowering, just fix your toe; and drive.
 

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Rear adjustable CA's will help you out once lowered. Your camber will naturally suffer anytime you go lower so making this adjustable will help you salvage some tire life (and could improve handling.)

I quickly found an Eibach kit, but I'm sure there's other manufacturers like it.

Eibach 5.67420K Focus ST Camber Arm Pro-Alignment Kit 13-16
 

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Rear adjustable CA's will help you out once lowered. Your camber will naturally suffer anytime you go lower so making this adjustable will help you salvage some tire life (and could improve handling.)

I quickly found an Eibach kit, but I'm sure there's other manufacturers like it.

Eibach 5.67420K Focus ST Camber Arm Pro-Alignment Kit 13-16
Massivespeedsystem.com has them also. I have theirs and love them.

Sent from another garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
JBR has some as well. Does it depend on how low you go as to how extreme the condition is? Is there no adjustment capability in the rear? I'm assuming a front end alignment will correct any issues in the front?

Is toe a problem in the rear as well? JBR also has adjustable toe bars.

Guess you could also lower it and see how extreme it is. I assume most reputable places will check all four wheel conditions during an alignment anyways?
 

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Like these guys said, adjustable rear camber arms for sure. Add a rear sway bar as well. Make sure when you find the perfect drop to go get an alignment.
 

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Massivespeedsystem.com has them also. I have theirs and love them.

Sent from another garage.
JBR has some as well. Does it depend on how low you go as to how extreme the condition is? Is there no adjustment capability in the rear? I'm assuming a front end alignment will correct any issues in the front?

Is toe a problem in the rear as well? JBR also has adjustable toe bars.

Guess you could also lower it and see how extreme it is. I assume most reputable places will check all four wheel conditions during an alignment anyways?
+1 for Massive Speed. I have their rear camber and toe arms. The factory has some adjustments, mostly for toe, but it affects camber as well. With separate camber and toe arms you can dial in exactly what you want. I thought it was worth it since I track the car and want to align it to certain specs to maximize tire performance. I haven't tried, but would expect that with camber arms and the stock toe adjustment, you would still be able to dial everything in just fine, and really even without camber arms you may have a little more negative camber in the rear than is ideal, but as long as the toe is adjusted correctly, tire wear won't suffer too much. I wouldn't recommend the JBR camber arms as they can't be adjusted while on the vehicle. They are technically superior since they have spherical rod ends on both sides (versus a poly bushing on one end for the massive speed), but to me not worth the hassle.
 

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JBR has some as well. Does it depend on how low you go as to how extreme the condition is? Is there no adjustment capability in the rear? I'm assuming a front end alignment will correct any issues in the front?

Is toe a problem in the rear as well? JBR also has adjustable toe bars.

Guess you could also lower it and see how extreme it is. I assume most reputable places will check all four wheel conditions during an alignment anyways?
I'd say 99% of alignment shops in any area will do a 4 wheel alignment. Like most vehicles, rear camber isn't adjustable which is why the rear camber arms are suggested. Front camber is generally adjusted by either strut bolts or top adjustments with coil overs.

Rear toe is adjustable and will need to be adjusted once the car is lowered. I don't know the exact +\- adjustments but it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to go with aftermarket there too while you're at it.

We've got a few places around my area that specialize in frame/alignments. Most people with aftermarket suspension swear by those types of shops like myself. I'd definitely search out for that.


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Discussion Starter #10
That doesn't seem right that the JBR ones can't be adjusted on vehicle?? Stupid. Those massive speed ones are pretty but didn't see s price on their website. How do you get prices? Also found some basic, no frills ones from Grargeline at a good price. Are these descent?
 

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That doesn't seem right that the JBR ones can't be adjusted on vehicle?? Stupid. Those massive speed ones are pretty but didn't see s price on their website. How do you get prices? Also found some basic, no frills ones from Grargeline at a good price. Are these descent?
You select which ones you want. So black, purple, ect then it gives you the price. Also other vendors like EdgeAutosport.com here sell them.

Sent from another garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What about sway bar end links? Should they be swapped out once lowered? I'd ask this with stock or aftermarket bars.
 

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Depending on how low you are going and your intended use you'll need a solution for correcting your roll center.

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Discussion Starter #15
Depending on how low you are going and your intended use you'll need a solution for correcting your roll center.

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Looking at my car the way it sits now and the way the tires fit, it looks like I'll drop more in the rear than in the front. May be 1/2 - 3/4" drop in the front will suit me just fine. A bit more for the rear to level out the appearance. Adjustable sway bar end links keep the bar flat, which restores/maintains appropriate geometry after lowering...I get that right? I'm guessing even if retaining stock sway bars for the time being, the adjustable end links are still of significant benefit? Or does it "just depend"? Does having beefier ones (even on stock bars) not offer an improvement even beyond that of restoring proper geometry?? (I hope I'm asking the right questions in this area).
 

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Looking at my car the way it sits now and the way the tires fit, it looks like I'll drop more in the rear than in the front. May be 1/2 - 3/4" drop in the front will suit me just fine. A bit more for the rear to level out the appearance. Adjustable sway bar end links keep the bar flat, which restores/maintains appropriate geometry after lowering...I get that right? I'm guessing even if retaining stock sway bars for the time being, the adjustable end links are still of significant benefit? Or does it "just depend"? Does having beefier ones (even on stock bars) not offer an improvement even beyond that of restoring proper geometry?? (I hope I'm asking the right questions in this area).
Roll center actually refers to an aspect of the suspension of your vehicle having to do with geometric roll stiffness. It has a to do with the angles of your control arms and the effect on how force is transmitted.
http://www.meganracing.com/tech/faqs.asp?id=106&subject=Suspension


I wouldn't expect much of an issue if only lowering 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch.

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