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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone!

Looking to get back into an ST after being away from the platform for 5 years!

There are three ST3 cars that I am currently debating between:

2014 ST3 w/ 48k miles. Oxford White. Asking $17k obo. Original owner selling because he had a baby and bought a SUV. Has these mods:

"Up for sale is my clean title 2014 Ford Focus ST 6 speed manual with low miles. I am the original owner with pink slip on hand. It's fully loaded. 2 key fobs. Have original window sticker and some documents. I have changed the oil every 5,000 miles with full synthetic. Interior is a 9.5/10 and exterior is a 9/10."

-Ford Racing snorkel (plasti-dip white)
-Cobb intake (plasti-dip white)
-Depo racing "Beast" intercooler and intercooler pipe kit
-Turbosmart Kompact dual port blow off valve
-PLM 3" catless downpipe with CEL light fix
-Mandrel bend 2.5" exhaust with custom tips
-Cobb Accessport V3 with custom tunes from Cobb and stratified. Stratified tune has the snap, crackel and pop (very cool and loud) can also run the tune version without it.
-Ngk LTR7IX-11 spark plugs @25,608 miles
-Hid yellow fog lights -Ceramic 5% tint all around (Windshield untouched) with lifetime warranty, have paperwork.
-OEM Ford window visors
-New interstate battery @47,356 miles
-New Goodyear tires with alignment done @45,426 miles


2014 ST3 w/ 43k miles. Ingot Silver. Asking $15k, which is what he still owes on the car. Second owner since 2018. Selling because he wants to get into something cheaper:

"This manual turbo 4 cylinder car is amazing and extremely quick! It shifts super smooth and is fun to drive. Recently changed oil and CLUTCH, I have receipts.I don't want to sell this car but I think I need something cheaper. This is the ST3 package(the best one) comes with heated seats, Ricaro bucket seats, sun roof, etc. great room in the back. Come take it for a spin! For any other questions feel free to ask. NO LOW BALLERS. Willing to negotiate."

Totally stock - but had his clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder replaced recently.


2016 ST3 w/ 65k miles. Magnetic Grey. Asking $15k, which is what he still owes on the car. Selling because he's "young and doesnt need something this quick":


"65k miles, clean title Great car, has the factory st3 package. Coming with the bigger and better wheels, heated and cooling steering wheel, sound system, navigation, sunroof, and best of all, the leather recaro seats. The car is amazing overall and has never let me down. Mods done: - Cobb carb legal intake The rest of the car is stock, it is quick and does not need to be any faster for the streets. I’m financed through schools first and owe 15,085. There are st1 model cars posted for much more. So we can figure out a transfer. Either you get a loan and we transfer it, or pays in cash straight up and takes ownership. Like I said the car is great. Lmk"

Stock besides intake.
____

I am leaning towards the first one I listed because:

Its the closest to me so I can easily go and check it out
Its being sold by the original owner
It comes with ALL stock parts
Has service records and has taken care of all TSBs
It is Oxford White, which is my preference

What is everyone's thoughts?? Good deals, bad deals?

Thanks in advance for your time!
 

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As long as the clutch feels good, of take the $15k '14. Lowest miles and not modified.

Do you have experience with modified cars? If everything is sorted, you get a good discount on parts and time saved from modifying yourself. General rule is a modified car is not worth a premium and the added parts should take away from the value on reliability or potential harm they could have caused. It could be a responsible owner (sounds like it from the oil change schedule) but never know.

Also as an fyi, the tune is non transferable. As in you can run it as is but if you need any changes or add more parts that require an update, the tuner will want to charge you as a new customer.
 

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From what I see I'd agree with you and say the 1st car listed would be the best bet. I don't know about the 'crackles and pops' tune (there are some threads on here about that), but it seems the best maintained and already has most of the mods you'll eventually want to get anyways ;)

The last one seems a bit sketchy to me, lol.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As long as the clutch feels good, of take the $15k '14. Lowest miles and not modified.

Do you have experience with modified cars? If everything is sorted, you get a good discount on parts and time saved from modifying yourself. General rule is a modified car is not worth a premium and the added parts should take away from the value on reliability or potential harm they could have caused. It could be a responsible owner (sounds like it from the oil change schedule) but never know.

Also as an fyi, the tune is non transferable. As in you can run it as is but if you need any changes or add more parts that require an update, the tuner will want to charge you as a new customer.
Good to know about the tune!

I used to have a 13 ST with full bolts on and the rest of my cars are also heavily modified. I am no stranger to modifications, I just usually try to buy stock in fear of the previous owner being neglectful.

Only reason I am shying away from the one with the new clutch is because the seller doesn't seem knowledgeable about cars whatsoever. Makes me wonder if he took care of the car properly, if he let it warm up before going into boost, and lastly, why did the clutch go out in less than 43k miles? Was he dropping the clutch all the time??

Was the slave cylinder issue common on the earlier ST's as well? (I seem to notice that problem on the newer ones?)

From what I see I'd agree with you and say the 1st car listed would be the best bet. I don't know about the 'crackles and pops' tune (there are some threads on here about that), but it seems the best maintained and already has most of the mods you'll eventually want to get anyways ;)

The last one seems a bit sketchy to me, lol.
Agreed on the crackles and pops tune... Not my cup of tea, but at least he isn't running it through the stock cat! But it also makes me wonder what kind of driver he is/was to want that feature in the first place.
 

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Good to know about the tune!

I used to have a 13 ST with full bolts on and the rest of my cars are also heavily modified. I am no stranger to modifications, I just usually try to buy stock in fear of the previous owner being neglectful.

Only reason I am shying away from the one with the new clutch is because the seller doesn't seem knowledgeable about cars whatsoever. Makes me wonder if he took care of the car properly, if he let it warm up before going into boost, and lastly, why did the clutch go out in less than 43k miles? Was he dropping the clutch all the time??

Was the slave cylinder issue common on the earlier ST's as well? (I seem to notice that problem on the newer ones?)



Agreed on the crackles and pops tune... Not my cup of tea, but at least he isn't running it through the stock cat! But it also makes me wonder what kind of driver he is/was to want that feature in the first place.
The mods done to the first car are largely ones many will want to make anyway, and the fact that the seller is the original owner is a plus. The "crackles and pops" tune freaks me out, though. The tune is not designed for performance or efficiency, but for a more superficial reason- and it makes me wonder what potential damage is being caused by this tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That was my biggest initial turn off about the car. However, from doing some quick research, it doesn't sound like it is all that damaging if using a catless DP, which the owner is running.

Here is a quote by @ddotffoeg from 2016:

"...the basic concept is to dump a little fuel in with 0 percent pedal input (during decel) so that it ignites in the exhaust system. Typically, you cut fuel in deceleration, known as DFSO (decel fuel shut off). The issue with doing this is you are burning extra gas (if that concerns you) and that you can eventually damage the cat. You are igniting the gas in the downpipe, which creates the pops and burbles. If you are running a catless dp, this will not be an issue.

You (the tuner) can calibrate how much fuel to dump in and for how long, which will change the sounds of the pops and the length of the pops. It is also possible to change the RPM at which this happens; i.e. only happens after 4000RPM or it happens from 6500-1500RPM, depending on what you like."
 

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I think the second one is best. Bone stock, lowest miles. Personally, I would prefer a bone stock car to mod myself than a pre-modded car. That way I can get exactly what I want and I can turn the wrenches myself, but others may disagree with me.

I agree with the others on the crackle tune. I also personally think crackle tunes are dumb, but that's a preference thing.

That said, the '16 will have Sync3, and the other handful of Facelift changes.
 
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I think the second one is also the smart buy, but I would personally prefer the first one, as I like the pre-facelift exterior better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I agree that the second car with lower miles and totally stock would be the safer and possibly even smarter buy, but the sellers communication is spotty and he has had the car listed for sale for almost a year. I hit him up without realizing that it was an old post, but he got back to me saying it was still available.. Not sure what to make of that...

I think I will see if I can check out the first car this week and hopefully he will let me run a compression check on the engine. Anything else I should be on the look out when I check it out? He has an Accessport, is there anything worthwhile checking through that since it can monitor a bunch of different things?
 

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Anything else I should be on the look out when I check it out? He has an Accessport, is there anything worthwhile checking through that since it can monitor a bunch of different things?
Rust can start on corners of the fenders/doors/hatch, where ever there is a tight bend on the metal.

The purge valve recall caused issues for some, stalling or miles to empty being way off ( means had tank is probably getting deformed.)

If you have the AP fired up, you can check oar (should be pinned on -1,) check misfires during pulls, bad corrections ect.
 

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I think the second one is also the smart buy, but I would personally prefer the first one, as I like the pre-facelift exterior better.
Both the first and second are PFL. ;)

I agree that the second car with lower miles and totally stock would be the safer and possibly even smarter buy, but the sellers communication is spotty and he has had the car listed for sale for almost a year. I hit him up without realizing that it was an old post, but he got back to me saying it was still available.. Not sure what to make of that...

I think I will see if I can check out the first car this week and hopefully he will let me run a compression check on the engine. Anything else I should be on the look out when I check it out? He has an Accessport, is there anything worthwhile checking through that since it can monitor a bunch of different things?
Compression test is important. See if he'll let you guys meet at a mechanic shop and let a mechanic do a once-over. Around me, it costs about $40, but getting a trained eye on the car is your best bet. When I sold my Camry, we had it done at Firestone.

I'd still push for the second. His price is just a little bit high, which might be why he hasn't sold yet.

No matter which car you check out, do the mechanic thing. That $40 could save you a $4500 repair bill two weeks after. Ask me how I know.
 

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Both the first and second are PFL. ;)


Compression test is important. See if he'll let you guys meet at a mechanic shop and let a mechanic do a once-over. Around me, it costs about $40, but getting a trained eye on the car is your best bet. When I sold my Camry, we had it done at Firestone.

I'd still push for the second. His price is just a little bit high, which might be why he hasn't sold yet.

No matter which car you check out, do the mechanic thing. That $40 could save you a $4500 repair bill two weeks after. Ask me how I know.
haha so they are!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just a little update:

I reached out to the owner of the first car from above inquiring about the SMOG check that is needed here in CA to sell a car. With its current modifications, the car will not pass smog. However, the owner said he would take care of that before selling it to me if my offer was acceptable. I told him that I don't like discussing the price of a vehicle that I haven't seen in person, or test driven. BUT, if I like what I see and it passes a pre purchase inspection (that I would pay for) I would offer him $15,500. He countered at $16k as his lowest. Naturally, I said lets split the difference at $15,750 to which he replied, that's where he would end up after taking care of the SMOG. If he lets it go for 15,750, the smog check is on me. $16k and he'll take care of it..

I am debating if I should counter one last time at 15,850, accept it at $16k, or pass on it all together and go check out option #2... Decisions, decisions... I really wanted an Oxford White ST this time around... LOL
 

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I didn't want a black ST but I would have had to go 150-200 miles to find a different color. I know we are all good at spending OPM around here, but if I REALLY wanted white I'd ask myself if white was worth a measly $250 to save my shopping time and get me in the car now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I didn't want a black ST but I would have had to go 150-200 miles to find a different color. I know we are all good at spending OPM around here, but if I REALLY wanted white I'd ask myself if white was worth a measly $250 to save my shopping time and get me in the car now.
Well said Sobro. I am going to go and check out the car in person today or tomorrow after work to see if it is in as good as condition as the owner says it is. Hopefully it is! I found a nearby shop with good reviews that can do a PPI for $80 and said it would take up to 2 hours.. (seems like a long time to go over a car..)

Also, option #2 from above sent me some fresh pictures (as his original ad was a year old) and there's a large dent on the hood. Looks like something fell on it.. Not a deal breaker if the Oxford White car falls through, just an observation.

Thank you to everyone that has chimed in on the subject so far. I honestly can not wait to be back behind the wheel of an ST! (hopefully sooner than later!)
 

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Well said Sobro. I am going to go and check out the car in person today or tomorrow after work to see if it is in as good as condition as the owner says it is. Hopefully it is! I found a nearby shop with good reviews that can do a PPI for $80 and said it would take up to 2 hours.. (seems like a long time to go over a car..)

Also, option #2 from above sent me some fresh pictures (as his original ad was a year old) and there's a large dent on the hood. Looks like something fell on it.. Not a deal breaker if the Oxford White car falls through, just an observation.

Thank you to everyone that has chimed in on the subject so far. I honestly can not wait to be back behind the wheel of an ST! (hopefully sooner than later!)
If memory serves, you're in or near SoCal. From what I hear $80 is about right for PPI. 2 hours is a long time, but hopefully it means they're going over every detail.

I'm biased towards the Ingot Silver one. Not because it's my favorite. It's actually my least favorite color the car came in, but it's WAY less maintenance to keep looking good. Also, I own one.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If memory serves, you're in or near SoCal. From what I hear $80 is about right for PPI. 2 hours is a long time, but hopefully it means they're going over every detail.

I'm biased towards the Ingot Silver one. Not because it's my favorite. It's actually my least favorite color the car came in, but it's WAY less maintenance to keep looking good. Also, I own one.
Back in 2014 I was planning on buying a brand spanking new Oxford White ST3, drove down to a San Diego because they had the best price. I get there and they have a CPO black ST3 parked right next to it and tell me that its a quite few thousand dollars cheaper (I cant remember the exact number anymore, maybe $7k?) and it only had like 12k miles on it.. Black, while a beautiful color on a car is absolutely a nightmare to take care of.. I really didn't want to buy a black car that day, but I couldn't turn down the much cheaper price.. I always regretted that decision.. hahah

I don't have nearly the same aversion for Ingot Silver, but I do plan on keeping which ever ST I end up with for at least ten years and want to be happy with my decision.. Hopefully this OW deal works out, but if not, who knows what ill do!
 

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Back in 2014 I was planning on buying a brand spanking new Oxford White ST3, drove down to a San Diego because they had the best price. I get there and they have a CPO black ST3 parked right next to it and tell me that its a quite few thousand dollars cheaper (I cant remember the exact number anymore, maybe $7k?) and it only had like 12k miles on it.. Black, while a beautiful color on a car is absolutely a nightmare to take care of.. I really didn't want to buy a black car that day, but I couldn't turn down the much cheaper price.. I always regretted that decision.. hahah

I don't have nearly the same aversion for Ingot Silver, but I do plan on keeping which ever ST I end up with for at least ten years and want to be happy with my decision.. Hopefully this OW deal works out, but if not, who knows what ill do!
There's always a vinyl wrap. ;)
 

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I got silver st3 full bolt on’s tuned by edge auto stage 2 clutch kit with flywheel 2867r.64 tubo
3inch exhaust included Cobb cat down pipe 29k miles on the engine and transmission
Yours for 17k cash vehicle is paid off so I have the title
 
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