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Went to pass a guy this morning on the way to work and dropped into 3rd at 40 mph... Gave it some gas and instantly broke traction... Temps in the mid 20s and the road was dry.

On the way home, accelerated from a stop to pass a guy who'd been driving 15 under the limit and pacing the moron in the left lane, also going 15 under, and it just spun through second gear. 215 width tires and gritty, cold roads are just not conducive to holding the torque this thing creates even with a stock tune. No idea how you guys putting down 350+ torque at the wheels deal with it.
 

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Yeah, unless the road is packed with snow and ice, winter tires are ****ty to drive on. I had the "winter performance" Blizzaks and I hated driving on them for the majority of winter.
 

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Aside from what you mentioned, i notice that on mine (x ice tires, 17 inch wheels) when you accelerate in 2nd and 3rd especially, the car tends to sway left and right. Kind of like torque steer but in both directions alternating. I figured it might have something to do with the torque vectoring coupled with the soft and tall sidewalls that were never meant to be on this car.

Looking forward to summer tires!
 

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I have the Goodyear Ultragrip Performance Gen-1 (235/40 on the 18" Snowflakes), which are surprisingly good in the dry for a winter/snow tire. Yet, given the weather around here in winter nowadays, I came to think of switching to all-season tires for "winter" and keep my full on performance tires in summer. I still need something for the colder months because my summer tires suck once it's below 50°F.
 

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Went to pass a guy this morning on the way to work and dropped into 3rd at 40 mph... Gave it some gas and instantly broke traction... Temps in the mid 20s and the road was dry.

On the way home, accelerated from a stop to pass a guy who'd been driving 15 under the limit and pacing the moron in the left lane, also going 15 under, and it just spun through second gear. 215 width tires and gritty, cold roads are just not conducive to holding the torque this thing creates even with a stock tune. No idea how you guys putting down 350+ torque at the wheels deal with it.

Lol, i ran 215 blizzaks. Mistake. Then ran 235 Blizzaks, a little better. LSD helps, but now I run A/S and have a vehicle for actual snow. Gotta get a new setup for summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lol, i ran 215 blizzaks. Mistake. Then ran 235 Blizzaks, a little better. LSD helps, but now I run A/S and have a vehicle for actual snow. Gotta get a new setup for summer.
We have 3 vehicles right now, the Transit for hauling everybody (8 kids won't fit in a minivan), the Escape (which Jenny or my oldest son now drive to where they need to go if we can fit 5 or less in it), and the ST for me as my commuter car (used to be the Escape). The Escape, being AWD, is the only one I run all-season tires on year-round. The Transit and Focus I have a spare set of rims for, along with snows for each (Nokian Hak WC3's for the van, which are awesome in the snow). The Focus has a set of Discount Tire house-brand snow tires on it, which were on the rims when I got them last May (the week after I got the car). They're not great, but I can manage with them.

Regarding the right/left movement when accelerating hard, I found that just turning off traction control totally eliminates that for me. So, any time I figure I'll have to get around somebody I just reach down and punch the traction control button. It spins more, sure, but at least I can keep it in a straight line.
 

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Performance Winter tires will give you a little better performance in non-winter conditions compared to the studless ice and snow rated ones but you give up some snow and ice performance. That said, your right foot can still make short work of traction when boost kicks in. The 215 size tread isn't doing any favors. I run 225.40.18's Falken Eurowinters. They feel like an all season but with little better performance in the snow/ice. I will probably go back to 235.40's's when these wear out because i do want more dry grip but i will be staying with the Winter Performance category.

 

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Yeah I'm running studded nokian hakkapeliitta 8. Bad choice for this car. Don't get me wrong the things a tank you will not get stuck. But I can break the tires loose at 60 in forth with about 12 lb of boost. I've come to terms that rarely can I pass somebody in the winter LOL.
 

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...

Regarding the right/left movement when accelerating hard, I found that just turning off traction control totally eliminates that for me. So, any time I figure I'll have to get around somebody I just reach down and punch the traction control button. It spins more, sure, but at least I can keep it in a straight line.
I make it a habit to always have traction control turned off regardless of tires or weather.
 

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Get your self an AccessPort if you don't already have one and run an economy tune. The Cobb economy tune limits boost to 7 pounds which helps tremendously with traction.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've not yet bought a tuner for it, and I still need to purchase an intercooler to combat the heat issues. Hopefully this Spring I can get at least the IC. Only real concern with the tune is hurting the longevity of the motor. I need this car to last for several years (6-8 anyway), and I'm a bit concerned that a tune is going to severely limit its ability to go that long.
 

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I took delivery of my car on 9/20/12, so it is over 7 years old, and it has been "tuned" for over 6 of those years. Having an aftermarket tune is not going to hurt the longevity of your engine, that is completely dependent on your driving habits. If your new found power/responsiveness tempt you to drive like a hoonigan then your longevity may suffer.
 

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No problems with Pirelli Sotto2 (235/40/18) on stock rims, they grip fine in the cold weather. Blizzaks and XIce are more "snow" tires then winter performance IMHO
 

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lol - I'm the slowest person on the road during winter - just taking it easy in the right hand lane, making sure I don't wreck - I won't be going over 3000rpm until spring. Good luck trying to go fast in an st in the snow.
 
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