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Discussion Starter #1
I installed an Earl's 19 row oil cooler in front of my crash bar before my track day at Putnam Park last week with Greddy thermostatic sandwich plate. It worked like a charm. My last track day, I was seeing 260 about every 4-5 laps before I'd take a cool down lap to let them drop again. This time, I pushed the car very hard at times, and they stayed in the 240's almost all day. The last session of the day, I did hit 258 when I got an open track and was able to get on it for several laps in a row, but it quickly went down. Ambient temps were about 82 in the morning to 90 degrees in the afternoon during the last session, so its not Arizona weather, but it was pretty warm.

Since my car is also my DD, I can also say that my oil temps actually heat up the same speed if not a bit faster than they used to.
 

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a 20 degree drop isn't bad. Add some shrouds to stop the air from going around the cooler and radiator and you'll be all set. A radiator will help too. What oil and power level?
 

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Are these actual measured oil temps or factory gauge readings? The factory oil temp that the PCM reports is a calculated value, not actual.
 

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Why would you do that? heat transfers from the hotter oil to the cooler water.
because the watr temp will always be between 190 and 230. so even with your cooler you would never go below that number. so put a 1000CFM or higher fan on the cooler and bypass the water and it will get lower than what you(everyone) are currently getting.
 

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Why would you do that? heat transfers from the hotter oil to the cooler water.
because the watr temp will always be between 190 and 230. so even with your cooler you would never go below that number. so put a 1000CFM or higher fan on the cooler and bypass the water and it will get lower than what you(everyone) are currently getting.
 

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So just how low do you expect oil temps to be on a turbo charged car running on the track? Without the oil to water heat transfer you'll see higher oil temps not lower. If you added a 19 row oil cooler plus increased oil capacity you increased the ability to transfer oil heat. Obviously with the water having heat transferred to it you'll see increased water temp. If you increase the capatiy of water and add a larger radiated with more surface area to dissipate heat. The lower you can make the water temp the more efficiently heat can transfer from the oil to the water.

I think if you can keep your oil 240 and under and your water under 220 you're doing fine for the track you drive in the climate you drive it in. At 240 you in no danger of sheering or oil break down. If you're a track guy your probably changing your oil more frequently anyway
 

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Also make sure your cooler is plumbed so the hot oil hits the factory water cooler first. Then your external cooler doesn't need to drop it as much. You don't want to cool the oil low then heat it back up.
 

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So just how low do you expect oil temps to be on a turbo charged car running on the track? Without the oil to water heat transfer you'll see higher oil temps not lower. If you added a 19 row oil cooler plus increased oil capacity you increased the ability to transfer oil heat. Obviously with the water having heat transferred to it you'll see increased water temp. If you increase the capatiy of water and add a larger radiated with more surface area to dissipate heat. The lower you can make the water temp the more efficiently heat can transfer from the oil to the water.

I think if you can keep your oil 240 and under and your water under 220 you're doing fine for the track you drive in the climate you drive it in. At 240 you in no danger of sheering or oil break down. If you're a track guy your probably changing your oil more frequently anyway
do what ever you want. I had a setup like this on my last DSM. 18pass derale an-10 fittings and tube size. 10" fan came supplied with the cooler. I was also running a 180 temp thermostat. car took an extra 1 qt of oil with cooler and lines. oil cooler fan was always at 100% using a relay and switch. radiator fans were set to 50% at 190 and 100% at 200. my oil temps stayed in the high 190s and low 200s. but people who have done this stuff already must just be stupid. so yes you are right upgrading the cooling on your can will only net you 5 degrees colder. wow
 

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Discussion Starter #16
that doesnt really sound like a success going from 260 to 240. is there a fan on the cooler?
I consider it a success when I 260 wasn't the max I COULD have gotten it to. I wasn't going over 260 for fear of oil breakdown. I had to watch carefully and drive like a grandma to keep it there. What would it have been? Who knows, but I didn't really care to find limp mode. Now with the oil cooler, I wasn't doing that at all. I was going 8-9 tenths all day and it stayed in the 240's.

A fan wouldn't really be feasible or necessary for the current mounting location. When do I need cooler oil? When I'm flogging it at the track at 50-110 mph. I don't have a degree in physics, but I doubt a fan is pushing more air at those speeds than good old Mother Nature. For me, it may not be THE MOST optimal setup you could have, but it's darn good.

image.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
How about some info and a link to earls oil cooler for us.


Posted in part by WAMC
I bought it from a forum member, but I'm about 99%sure it's this one. What other info would You like? It takes -10 AN fittings and steel braided hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
X2 on removing the thermostatic sandwich plate with coolant. Ditch that and run your new sandwich plate only. You should hopefully see lower temps, and run a shroud on it.
Run a shroud on the oil cooler? Why? I think you guys missed the part where I said it was successful as is.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
a 20 degree drop isn't bad. Add some shrouds to stop the air from going around the cooler and radiator and you'll be all set. A radiator will help too. What oil and power level?
I'm just not that invested. It is a DD and I don't know that shrouds are really worth it TO ME.

Oil is Mobil 1 5w-30. It took about 6.1-6.4 quarts (not absolutely positive) total.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Are these actual measured oil temps or factory gauge readings? The factory oil temp that the PCM reports is a calculated value, not actual.
Fake readings, but from my APv3, so they were "precise", but likely not completely "reliable."
 
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