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2013 ST2, AGP BWS turbo, SP63 block
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Discussion Starter #61
How many miles on the motor?

It's all probably fine to be reused.
I mean the top end and short block have less than 35,000 on them for certain. The question is if the timing belt was done by either the shop that did the SP63 install or if it was done by Ford during top end, OR not at all lol. I guess i’ll just wait to take it apart.
 

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I mean the top end and short block have less than 35,000 on them for certain. The question is if the timing belt was done by either the shop that did the SP63 install or if it was done by Ford during top end, OR not at all lol. I guess i’ll just wait to take it apart.
The timing belt was not done at all; eco-boost engines have a chain.
 
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2013 ST2, AGP BWS turbo, SP63 block
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Discussion Starter #63

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Discussion Starter #64
Hey I'm skimming through the FSM for cylinder head rebuild before I do it this weekend.
I've got all of the tools and friction washers and stuff that I think I need except for this bit of info.

Does the motor come stock with head bolts? I see that the SP63 short block rebuild has ARP head studs yes.
But in the FSM, they are pointing to head bolts (and saying to discard them upon rebuild)

If my cylinder head was replaced by a dealership, Did they throw out my desired ARP studs?
 

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2013 ST2, AGP BWS turbo, SP63 block
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Discussion Starter #65
Went ahead and ordered 10 new OEM head bolts. Just to have on hand. Will return if the ARP studs didnt get wasted 😪
 

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Make sure to follow ARPs torque specs and its CRUCIAL that you use their torque compound on the threads! This will vary from the TTY bolts that either get threaded dry or with a thin film of oil.
 

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2013 ST2, AGP BWS turbo, SP63 block
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Discussion Starter #67
Make sure to follow ARPs torque specs and its CRUCIAL that you use their torque compound on the threads! This will vary from the TTY bolts that either get threaded dry or with a thin film of oil.
I have the torque specs printed and the ARP lube on the way.
really hoping the studs are still in there.
 
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Discussion Starter #68
Taking it apart tonight. I can already see that ford replaced the ARP studs with OEM bolts.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I'm gonna return the OEM bolts and keep the car up on jacks until I can get ARP studs. If I lifted the OEM bolts It seems dumb to replace them with OEM bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Also there is a TON of water and crap in my catch cans (emptied them only like 200 miles ago). Thinking this is pretty typical of a blown headgasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Taking it apart tonight. I can already see that ford replaced the ARP studs with OEM bolts.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I'm gonna return the OEM bolts and keep the car up on jacks until I can get ARP studs. If I lifted the OEM bolts It seems dumb to replace them with OEM bolts.
This was actually incorrect. I mistook ARP main studs (included in stage 2 SP63 short block) for head bolts. It never had upgraded head bolts. The main studs are indeed there along with Mahle pistons and Manley rods.

Also found that the last bolt on the corner of cylinder 4 was improperly torqued to only 50 ft lb on release. the other 9 bolts were at like +80 on release. So maybe the ford dealership forgot to tighten one... which would definitely lead to a blown headgasket

ARP2000 series head studs on order. not lifting a head gasket ever again.
 

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Oh wow, this is similar to what I am going through. This past Thursday coming back from work, right before the freeway off ramp to go home, car started stumbling and check engine light came on. I pulled over, and right away I could smell coolant, but the dash gauge didn't show overheating. So I shut it off, opened the hood, and saw that the Coolant Cap was off and coolant had been boiling out of it. 😫 But there was still some in the reservoir. So I put the cap back on, let the car sit for 15 minutes, then started it up. It was running fine and I drive the last 30 seconds home.

Friday, I bought orange coolant and filled up the reservoir. I started the car and after 5 minutes of idling the engine started running a little rough and I looked to the back of the car and white smoke started billowing out of the exhaust. :cry: So fearing a head gasket failure, Saturday I started tearing the head off. Once I started taking the turbo off, coolant started to drip out of the exhaust manifold...now I'm getting worried.

Today I got the head off and I did not see any signs of a leaking head gasket. So my fear is that the head developed a crack in the exhaust port....ugh. I dropped the head off at a local place in Sylmar called Cylinder Head Exchange and they are going to pressure test the head and let me know if there are any cracks.

I might need a head if anyone has one for sale....
 

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Oh wow, this is similar to what I am going through. This past Thursday coming back from work, right before the freeway off ramp to go home, car started stumbling and check engine light came on. I pulled over, and right away I could smell coolant, but the dash gauge didn't show overheating. So I shut it off, opened the hood, and saw that the Coolant Cap was off and coolant had been boiling out of it. 😫 But there was still some in the reservoir. So I put the cap back on, let the car sit for 15 minutes, then started it up. It was running fine and I drive the last 30 seconds home.

Friday, I bought orange coolant and filled up the reservoir. I started the car and after 5 minutes of idling the engine started running a little rough and I looked to the back of the car and white smoke started billowing out of the exhaust. :cry: So fearing a head gasket failure, Saturday I started tearing the head off. Once I started taking the turbo off, coolant started to drip out of the exhaust manifold...now I'm getting worried.

Today I got the head off and I did not see any signs of a leaking head gasket. So my fear is that the head developed a crack in the exhaust port....ugh. I dropped the head off at a local place in Sylmar called Cylinder Head Exchange and they are going to pressure test the head and let me know if there are any cracks.

I might need a head if anyone has one for sale....
Did you take a good look at the turbo? it's water cooled and could have a leaking seal.

Edit: did you do a compression test prior to removing the head?
 

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2013 ST2, AGP BWS turbo, SP63 block
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Discussion Starter #73
Oh wow, this is similar to what I am going through. This past Thursday coming back from work, right before the freeway off ramp to go home, car started stumbling and check engine light came on. I pulled over, and right away I could smell coolant, but the dash gauge didn't show overheating. So I shut it off, opened the hood, and saw that the Coolant Cap was off and coolant had been boiling out of it. 😫 But there was still some in the reservoir. So I put the cap back on, let the car sit for 15 minutes, then started it up. It was running fine and I drive the last 30 seconds home.

Friday, I bought orange coolant and filled up the reservoir. I started the car and after 5 minutes of idling the engine started running a little rough and I looked to the back of the car and white smoke started billowing out of the exhaust. :cry: So fearing a head gasket failure, Saturday I started tearing the head off. Once I started taking the turbo off, coolant started to drip out of the exhaust manifold...now I'm getting worried.

Today I got the head off and I did not see any signs of a leaking head gasket. So my fear is that the head developed a crack in the exhaust port....ugh. I dropped the head off at a local place in Sylmar called Cylinder Head Exchange and they are going to pressure test the head and let me know if there are any cracks.

I might need a head if anyone has one for sale....
what turbo are you running?
ATP turbos are common to break headifold exhaust ports because of their oversized turbine inlet port. Really a poor design on their behalf.

It needs to match the ford headifold port otherwise you put super hot fluid stress on the corners of the port and rip it open.
 

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Did you take a good look at the turbo? it's water cooled and could have a leaking seal.

Edit: did you do a compression test prior to removing the head?
I will take a good look at it once it's out. It's possible that it's the turbo but....I don't see why coolant would be dripping directly out of the exhaust port of the head if the leak was lower down on on of the turbo seals. And no...:rolleyes: I should have done a leak down test before I began tear down. But I thought the symptoms for sure pointed to bad head gasket. Rough running, white smoke, and reservoir cap blown off....now i'm not so sure. The machine shop will let me know the results of the pressure test on the head tomorrow.

what turbo are you running?
ATP turbos are common to break headifold exhaust ports because of their oversized turbine inlet port. Really a poor design on their behalf.

It needs to match the ford headifold port otherwise you put super hot fluid stress on the corners of the port and rip it open.
Stock turbo, 96,000 miles on it. Appreciate the advice on matching the outlet port. That totally makes sense that it would cause stress points. I am considering upgrading the turbo to a gtx2867. If I go that route should I have the manifold port matched to the turbo inlet?
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Stock turbo, 96,000 miles on it. Appreciate the advice on matching the outlet port. That totally makes sense that it would cause stress points. I am considering upgrading the turbo to a gtx2867. If I go that route should I have the manifold port matched to the turbo inlet?
It'd be tough to port match the turbo inlet. And you really shouldn't since there are water cavities in it and people have routinely cracked them without even porting them. As much as I don't like to recommend mountune, this elbow does a good job at matching the inlet... If you were to find a T25 flanged turbo.
Mountune Focus St Turbo Mounting Kit Turbo Mount For Turbo Upgrade (mountuneusa.com)


Thats a lot of miles for stock turbo. thats really odd. Did you look around in the head? how does your head gasket look? if there is part of the seal missing then you're dumping coolant into your motor.

390096
390097

notice how the same portion of the gasket that is missing is black around the piston on the block
 

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My main concern with the cylinder 4 piston is those little spikes surrounding each depression are potential hot spots to cause preignition. Since you're tuning yourself, though, would you say cylinder 4 was a more active cylinder than the rest as far as negative corrections are concerned? If not, ship it.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
My main concern with the cylinder 4 piston is those little spikes surrounding each depression are potential hot spots to cause preignition. Since you're tuning yourself, though, would you say cylinder 4 was a more active cylinder than the rest as far as negative corrections are concerned? If not, ship it.
I replied in the "to bore or hone" thread bc it seemed to belong there.
 

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Well the machine shop got back with the results from the pressure test.....and the verdict is.......????

Massive crack in the exhaust port 😌 Sometimes I don't like to be correct. I wish this is one of those times where I was wrong and it was something simple.

Anyway, I was able to order a new head today from Galpin Ford, it'll be here next Tuesday....

Maybe I should make my own thread on this now instead of hijacking this one....
 

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what turbo are you running?
ATP turbos are common to break headifold exhaust ports because of their oversized turbine inlet port. Really a poor design on their behalf.

It needs to match the ford headifold port otherwise you put super hot fluid stress on the corners of the port and rip it open.
Yikes I just bought an ATP turbo kit. How common is this failure? I’ve never even heard of it until now.


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Also how did that embiggened stock downpipe do? Idk if you ever mentioned that in your other threads lol


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