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you're thinking its the plastic housing instead of the head gasket?
It could very well travel down the lower edge of the head and run off the back. Every auto parts store sells those small telescoping round inspection mirrors. Grab one and a bright flashlight and inspect the bottom side of the housing From above the engine to verify if it is or isn't that.
 

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Yeah that looks like coolant. And it looks like coming higher up than banjo fitting. Clean it up good first so you can try and see where it's actually coming from before running more.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Yeah that looks like coolant. And it looks like coming higher up than banjo fitting. Clean it up good first so you can try and see where it's actually coming from before running more.
really though to get a rag in that area. Easier with the intake tube off.

It could very well travel down the lower edge of the head and run off the back. Every auto parts store sells those small telescoping round inspection mirrors. Grab one and a bright flashlight and inspect the bottom side of the housing From above the engine to verify if it is or isn't that.
good idea to have one.

I'm slow speed scrubbing through these videos and the more I look at them the more I feel like its a bad head gasket. I mean if the gasket in the plastic heater valve housing was bad, I'd think it would fail a pressure test. If the head gasket were bad, I could see it passing but failing at 25 psi of boost.

would you recommend the supertech gasket or the OEM gasket
 

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It's just one last thing to check off before diving in.

As far as headgaskets are concerned, i typically trust oem. I've Used Felpro MLS and Cometic MLS gaskets in the past, though.
 
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I got good at using brake cleaner spray when I had EJ251 subarus, but most of the head seams were a little easier to get to.

I think all the Ford options are MLS?
And the better ones are viton coated too.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
well if the tradition of the leak coming from the highest point on the engine is true, then maybe it really is just that heater valve housing
388693


what does MLS mean?
 

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Yep!! See the coolant welling below that bolt head??

Replace that housing. Its probably cracked.
 
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Any updates? Get that housing replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I got a better look in there when I replaced the housing. I'm calling it a head gasket leak.
Which is odd because the car will push 25 psi still (not doing it again, but It did get up there).
Also the coolant smells free of gas and it doesn't loose coolant when driving like a normal person. but it definitely looses coolant when you put a lot of pressure through the cylinder.
It seems fine until it gets up to 210°F and then as soon as I breach this, it skyrockets (water state changing).

Housing was completely fine. probably should have just returned the one I bought but its in there now.
Still overheating.

One time before really caught on to what was happening, I got it really hot,I parked the car and popped the hood. Faint coolant vapor was coming out from the back side of the engine all along the intake tube. agreeing with a leaking head gasket.

I also found more leaking marks over towards the passenger side by the turbo inlet area.


To me, this is a sign that I need to buy a new head gasket. and get some stage 1 cams to make the best of a disappointing situation.
 
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Well, ****.

At least the weather is getting nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Sorry to bump this thread back up,

But what are the chances that I warped my cylinder head?
Is it best to just go get a new head in this case?

Found out the top end and bottom end only have about 30k miles on them. top end rebuild done by Ford dealer. ARP head studs, Ford OEM gasket.

Stretched head studs (unlikely), blown head gasket, warped head or any combination of the 3? Does anyone have a symptoms list for these 3? Or is it only really possible to tell once you have it apart.

edit: I should add that at its worst (before I noticed what was happenging), the engine coolant never exceeded 240°F (redline on gauge). It was completely fine on temp, until one day I WOTed through several gears and the temp gauge went up near the red line but never tapped it. since then I've been very careful about engine temp as I knew something was wrong.
 

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Sorry to bump this thread back up,

But what are the chances that I warped my cylinder head?
Is it best to just go get a new head in this case?

Found out the top end and bottom end only have about 30k miles on them. top end rebuild done by Ford dealer. ARP head studs, Ford OEM gasket.

Stretched head studs (unlikely), blown head gasket, warped head or any combination of the 3? Does anyone have a symptoms list for these 3? Or is it only really possible to tell once you have it apart.

edit: I should add that at its worst (before I noticed what was happenging), the engine coolant never exceeded 240°F (redline on gauge). It was completely fine on temp, until one day I WOTed through several gears and the temp gauge went up near the red line but never tapped it. since then I've been very careful about engine temp as I knew something was wrong.
Wait, what? You have a speed assembled lower end, then ford assembled the top end? That doesn't seem right. Also begs the question of wtf they torqued the studs to.

Do you have a parts list?

Did you buy the car with this engine in it?
 
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You wont know until you pull the head And place a straight edge across it and the block.

Also, note. After breaking the head studs loose, re-torque following ARPs instructions To make sure they will tighten back down properly and not pull threads. When aluminum blocks overheat, they tend to pull threads out of the holes. You want to find this out on disassembly, not reassembly.
 
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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Wait, what? You have a speed assembled lower end, then ford assembled the top end? That doesn't seem right. Also begs the question of wtf they torqued the studs to.

Do you have a parts list?

Did you buy the car with this engine in it?
1st owner: New England RST scene. slowly pieced it to FBO + other goodies. bought SP63 stage 2 short block. Had a shop put it in at 80,000 miles. Was working towards Big turbo decided nah... Traded it to a Ford dealer for an RS at like 82,000. Ford dealer saw fit to go back to stock downpipe, stock intercooler. And for some unknown reason, give it a new top end.

2nd owner: A car photographer from New hampshire. Drove it until 108,000 miles. some issue with the turbo, Had a nissan dealership install a new turbo. They made a few mistakes that I have corrected (stripped oil feed banjo)

3rd owner: Me. Intercooler back in, downpipe mod. AGP BWS turbo done properly. Tune set for 25 psi max +/- 1 psi.
Bonehaded move: put grill shutters in for the winter. Drive it hard on a warm day and overheat it.

Notice this pretty quickly after that fateful WOT. I have kept an eye on coolant and run the stage 0 tune ever since. Only driving short commute to work never WOT. Which honestly I need to find a new car until this is fixed I know
 
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There should be a flatness spec, like .002" per ft or something. Anyone know what is is for the ST?
 

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There should be a flatness spec, like .002" per ft or something. Anyone know what is is for the ST?
.002" to .0039 per 7.8 inches of length.

Or 0.05mm- 0.10mm per 200mm of length, for you metric folks.
 
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Discussion Starter #58
So what's the consensus on timing chain replacement?
Would be the two guides, tensioner and chain.

Should I replace it while I'm in there or do they usually outlive the other components?
(I know you'd normally just check the tensioner to see how much its stretched out, but I'm trying to get parts on order)
 

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So what's the consensus on timing chain replacement?
Would be the two guides, tensioner and chain.

Should I replace it while I'm in there or do they usually outlive the other components?
(I know you'd normally just check the tensioner to see how much its stretched out, but I'm trying to get parts on order)
How many miles on the motor?

It's all probably fine to be reused.
 

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1st owner: New England RST scene. slowly pieced it to FBO + other goodies. bought SP63 stage 2 short block. Had a shop put it in at 80,000 miles. Was working towards Big turbo decided nah... Traded it to a Ford dealer for an RS at like 82,000. Ford dealer saw fit to go back to stock downpipe, stock intercooler. And for some unknown reason, give it a new top end.

2nd owner: A car photographer from New hampshire. Drove it until 108,000 miles. some issue with the turbo, Had a nissan dealership install a new turbo. They made a few mistakes that I have corrected (stripped oil feed banjo)

3rd owner: Me. Intercooler back in, downpipe mod. AGP BWS turbo done properly. Tune set for 25 psi max +/- 1 psi.
Bonehaded move: put grill shutters in for the winter. Drive it hard on a warm day and overheat it.

Notice this pretty quickly after that fateful WOT. I have kept an eye on coolant and run the stage 0 tune ever since. Only driving short commute to work never WOT. Which honestly I need to find a new car until this is fixed I know

I’ll say that I’m unsurprised that a car from NE RST was abused, I’ve seen some admittedly not so great advice in that group.
 
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