[used2befast]

Hopefully I am putting this in the right spot. My 2013 ST is due for emissions testing and has been rejected 4 times now for the O2 sensors not showing "ready". The first time I had a 3 inch catted downpipe, tune, CAI, exhaust, intake spacer, catch can and intercooler. After getting rejected I assumes it must have been the tune, so I pulled that. Drove for 14 days same problem. So I took the downpipe off and replaced it with a Magnaflow OEM flow downpipe and 2 new O2 sensors just to be on the safe side. Drove for 14 days, rejected again. So now my car has nothing but the intercooler and the Magnaflow downpipe on it, every other part mentioned above and the tune have all been removed. I have driven the car for 14 days and every sensor is ready except for the 2 O2 sensors AGAIN. Is anyone having these types of issues passing emissions? I am at a loss for what to do. My only option now is to buy the stock DP, intercooler, and AGS system and put the car completely back to stock and take it to Ford. Unless someone has any insights as to something I am missing? Thanks for any help or advice.

 

[kshatt06]

Hopefully I am putting this in the right spot. My 2013 ST is due for emissions testing and has been rejected 4 times now for the O2 sensors not showing "ready". The first time I had a 3 inch catted downpipe, tune, CAI, exhaust, intake spacer, catch can and intercooler. After getting rejected I assumes it must have been the tune, so I pulled that. Drove for 14 days same problem. So I took the downpipe off and replaced it with a Magnaflow OEM flow downpipe and 2 new O2 sensors just to be on the safe side. Drove for 14 days, rejected again. So now my car has nothing but the intercooler and the Magnaflow downpipe on it, every other part mentioned above and the tune have all been removed. I have driven the car for 14 days and every sensor is ready except for the 2 O2 sensors AGAIN. Is anyone having these types of issues passing emissions? I am at a loss for what to do. My only option now is to buy the stock DP, intercooler, and AGS system and put the car completely back to stock and take it to Ford. Unless someone has any insights as to something I am missing? Thanks for any help or advice.

First off let me say that I have a stock downpipe for sale . Now that that is out of the way I would get in touch with your tuner and ask them to take a look at it they should be able to help out with that. I have also herd of tuners being able to create a file that has helped people pass their emissions test and they did not have to remove or change any parts. Just something to look into. Good luck

 

[used2befast]

Thanks you have a PM about some parts. I have heard the same thing. But every tuner I talk to says I either need to install the stock DP, or I need to install the J-Tube and then buy the tuner/tune from them and they are sure they can get me hooked up. But no one I have talked to yet is 100% sure they can get me to pass. Once I pass I have 2 years before I need to test again and I have a tuner now that will tell me if my readiness monitors are good. So with me only having 30 days to get it good I figure my best bet is to turn it back to stock and pass, then I can get the tune/tuner and work it from there. Probably not the best plan money wise, but no one can tell me why my sensors will not show ready. Even Magnaflow doesn't get it since they said their pipe flows 100% like stock.

 

[Soden82]

I was able to pass with a catless downpipe here in MA with a tune from Justin and a fabbed up O2 spacer that I made for $6. It can be done but it's not guaranteed


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[XRJoe]

I'd recommend going back to the OEM downpipe and stock calibration if you haven't already. So many issues with getting o2 sensors ready, even on "OEM replacement" cats.

 

[used2befast]

It already has the stock cal, and has for more than 1100 miles, once I get the OEM pipe installed we will see what happens. If they still won't go to ready I guess I will have to take to get looked at. But at this point changing back to the OEM downpipe is my only option. I am definitely pissed off though that the "OEM flow" Magnaflow pipe did absolutely nothing. But if the OEM pipe fixes the car I guess I will take the issue up with Magnaflow.

 

[XRJoe]

I'd try a J-Tube or defouler first before going back to the stock cat. Cheaper and easier.

 

[Soden82]

I'd try a J-Tube or defouler first before going back to the stock cat. Cheaper and easier.

To go on what Joe said, you could buy a J tube and use a medium insert or create your own spacer with a spark plug non fouler


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[used2befast]

I appreciate the inputs. My plan at this point is to get the whole car back to stock in case there is another issue. Which may sound dumb but I have seen others who already have the stock downpipe on their car and still cannot get the O2 sensors to show ready. So in case that happens to me I want to be able to take it Ford and allow them to troubleshoot the car and find out what is going. But I have 2 years after it checks good, so then I will get the J-Tube and tune to make it all work. Because I have to invest in the accessport anyway. So for me it would be more expensive to invest in the J-Tube and tune/tuner.

 

[Burnboy]

If it's tuned, remove the tune. If you don't have a cat or have a high flow cat, get a vibrant j anti fouler from panda. It's $30. Drive on stock tune for a day. You'll pass

 

[Burnboy]

Put the middle size restrictor in the j pipe

 

[used2befast]

So I just want to see if anyone else who has had my issues was able to fix their car? MY car is now completely stock. I drove it for 500-700 miles that way before I finally took it to Ford again. Ford said hey don't know why but the car will not run the O2 sensor tests. So they reflashed my computer and told me to do the drive cycles (they gave me the list on paper). According to the listing once the car is warm just drive 5 minutes between 45-60mph and the first O2 sensor should set. There are of course a bunch more stuff to do for the rest, but since my concern is the O2 sensors I drove it for about 20 minutes today. Once the car cooled down I check it with my scanner and the sensor still is not showing ready. I have 10 more days to get it fixed or I am without a car. So if anyone has any hints, tips, etc, they are appreciated. Ford told me since it is under warranty bring it back and they will look at it, but they are already telling me that they see wrench marks on the rear O2 sensor and that they can tell I did something so they will make me pay for any work they do. Ironically the wrenching is because it is a brand new O2 sensor I installed in my other downpipe when this all started that was then transferred back to the stock pipe when I installed it, it has like 2200 miles on it.

 

[Soden82]

So I just want to see if anyone else who has had my issues was able to fix their car? MY car is now completely stock. I drove it for 500-700 miles that way before I finally took it to Ford again. Ford said hey don't know why but the car will not run the O2 sensor tests. So they reflashed my computer and told me to do the drive cycles (they gave me the list on paper). According to the listing once the car is warm just drive 5 minutes between 45-60mph and the first O2 sensor should set. There are of course a bunch more stuff to do for the rest, but since my concern is the O2 sensors I drove it for about 20 minutes today. Once the car cooled down I check it with my scanner and the sensor still is not showing ready. I have 10 more days to get it fixed or I am without a car. So if anyone has any hints, tips, etc, they are appreciated. Ford told me since it is under warranty bring it back and they will look at it, but they are already telling me that they see wrench marks on the rear O2 sensor and that they can tell I did something so they will make me pay for any work they do. Ironically the wrenching is because it is a brand new O2 sensor I installed in my other downpipe when this all started that was then transferred back to the stock pipe when I installed it, it has like 2200 miles on it.

This is why I hate dealerships and do not want to get my recall done. If you only have 10 days I'd run down to an auto parts store, get a spark plug antifouler like I did for $6, and drill a 1/2" hole through one. Screw your O2 into that and with the second anti fouler that comes in the pack you screw that into the downpipe itself. At this point you might want to run a spacer.

I was told by a Ford tech that you want to drive 40mph for 15-20minutes and then drive for 15-20 minutes with varying speed and it should go through a drive cycle


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[UnSToppable]

switch to stage 2 cobb tune and use a defouler on ur o2 sensor that worked for me with a cp-e high flow catted dp

 

[used2befast]

Thanks for the advice. First problem is that I don't have a Cobb Tuner, so I cannot do that. Second, I just cannot figure out why I would need a defouler. The vehicle drivetrain/emissions (including a stock tune) is 100% stock. All it has on it now is motor mounts, a cat-back and short throw shifter. There is absolutely no reason why the system should not be checking the O2 sensors and showing them as ready. And the O2 sensors that are in the car now only have roughly 2200 miles on them. It just makes no sense.

 

[screzzy]

Thanks for the advice. First problem is that I don't have a Cobb Tuner, so I cannot do that. Second, I just cannot figure out why I would need a defouler. The vehicle drivetrain/emissions (including a stock tune) is 100% stock. All it has on it now is motor mounts, a cat-back and short throw shifter. There is absolutely no reason why the system should not be checking the O2 sensors and showing them as ready. And the O2 sensors that are in the car now only have roughly 2200 miles on them. It just makes no sense.

Maybe bad wiring. Have you checked the connectors on the O2 harnesses?

 

[used2befast]

Well I checked them when I moved them from one pipe to the other and they were good. Ford even told me that when they checked them they are reading good but that for some reason the car won't run the check and call them good, so based off of that I would have to say the wiring is good. Ford seems just as stumped as I am since the car is stock. They figured I had a tune or downpipe in it, when they looked and saw that I didn't they just said they would reflash the ECU and have me drive it again and see what happens. But I am running into the same problem, they still won't show ready. If this keeps up I guess Ford is either buying back a car or giving me a rental while they troubleshoot my car for 2 months because if it won't pass I can never drive it.

 

[used2befast]

So Ford could not find anything wrong, so they essentially took a shot in the dark and replaced the rear O2 sensor, did the drive cycle and everything checks good now. So I guess that is good, but even Ford said that the one that was in there was reading good, but just seemed slow to react to inputs. So since the one they took out was new I have to assume that maybe I got a bad one when I purchased it or Ford is not telling me the whole story. In either respect now I want to put my parts back on, but I am really worried about tuning it again, since that seems to be when all this started. I plan to purchase a Mountune Tune/Tuner this time, hopefully that will be a better tune and I won't have any of these issues again.

 

[screzzy]

So Ford could not find anything wrong, so they essentially took a shot in the dark and replaced the rear O2 sensor, did the drive cycle and everything checks good now. So I guess that is good, but even Ford said that the one that was in there was reading good, but just seemed slow to react to inputs. So since the one they took out was new I have to assume that maybe I got a bad one when I purchased it or Ford is not telling me the whole story. In either respect now I want to put my parts back on, but I am really worried about tuning it again, since that seems to be when all this started. I plan to purchase a Mountune Tune/Tuner this time, hopefully that will be a better tune and I won't have any of these issues again.

Glad you're up and running! I recommend not getting the M-tune device, since it can only run two calibrations (mp275 and mr300). You can instead get the regular Accessport through Mountune then get custom calibrations, I'd recommend that route.

 

[used2befast]

Thanks for the advice Screzzy. I will probably go that route then. Is anyone running basic mods, not including a downpipe, and a tune and still able to pass emissions without removing the tune? I was looking at possibly getting a Freektune, I have heard good things about his tunes. Granted I want to run the catted downpipe as well, but with all the issues I just had I am not sure it is worth the hassle. I appreciate the advice.