[Magnasynn]

I believe you should turn off the Cobb FFS as this does cut fuel and not spark. I was researching a wot box and was in contact with another group member while he was installing his. The wot box cuts spark and you have to get the cut time dialed in or you get a good backfire getting back into it. My main concern as well as the guy that installed it was a lean out when the Cobb cut fuel FFS but the PI kept fueling. This will lean out but maybe beyond cause for alarm and not hot enough burn pistons.

Alright.. so I was able to adjust the WOTBox and the FFS in the AP simultaneously and get a very nice result. I set the FFS setting low, and then adjusted the WOTBox to my liking for shifting fast, and lo and behold, no lean out conditions.

I can’t figure out how to turn the Cobb launch control and FFS completely off so I didn’t try to mess with the launch control feature tonight but I was 100% able to complete shifts much faster after some dialing in since I’m familiar with the WOTBox, and with 0 lean condition. Held boost pretty good between the gears also.

Going to try to figure out how to disable the APs control over launch control and FFS. Once that’s done I can 100% fine tune the process and I think I’ll get a better result on both street and track.

If you use softer engine mounts, they won’t last too long unless you add an engine damper, it will soften the vibration a little bit.

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Im not sure I want to throw stock back in it, especially not the lower motor mount, but I wouldn’t mind something a tad softer.

If I did so, is that 546-501 part number the same one you have ran or seen ran?

 

[STallion18]

Alright.. so I was able to adjust the WOTBox and the FFS in the AP simultaneously and get a very nice result. I set the FFS setting low, and then adjusted the WOTBox to my liking for shifting fast, and lo and behold, no lean out conditions.

I can’t figure out how to turn the Cobb launch control and FFS completely off so I didn’t try to mess with the launch control feature tonight but I was 100% able to complete shifts much faster after some dialing in since I’m familiar with the WOTBox, and with 0 lean condition. Held boost pretty good between the gears also.

Going to try to figure out how to disable the APs control over launch control and FFS. Once that’s done I can 100% fine tune the process and I think I’ll get a better result on both street and track.


Im not sure I want to throw stock back in it, especially not the lower motor mount, but I wouldn’t mind something a tad softer.

If I did so, is that 546-501 part number the same one you have ran or seen ran?

There are all similar, what change are the mounting brackets. I think that bracket could be the proper one but it may require a custom one. I think maybe a softer mount not an OEM will be more appropriate.

 

[thadarkjinja]

Alright.. so I was able to adjust the WOTBox and the FFS in the AP simultaneously and get a very nice result. I set the FFS setting low, and then adjusted the WOTBox to my liking for shifting fast, and lo and behold, no lean out conditions.

I can’t figure out how to turn the Cobb launch control and FFS completely off so I didn’t try to mess with the launch control feature tonight but I was 100% able to complete shifts much faster after some dialing in since I’m familiar with the WOTBox, and with 0 lean condition. Held boost pretty good between the gears also.

Going to try to figure out how to disable the APs control over launch control and FFS. Once that’s done I can 100% fine tune the process and I think I’ll get a better result on both street and track.


Im not sure I want to throw stock back in it, especially not the lower motor mount, but I wouldn’t mind something a tad softer.

If I did so, is that 546-501 part number the same one you have ran or seen ran?

i’m kind of a noob still and run a sct x4 instead of the cobb AP, but on the x4 i can adjust the rev limiter for moving and stopped. maybe you can just up the rev limiter while not moving? i’m sure anyone with an AP has better advice though.

sweet car, man! i look forward to seeing more progress!

 

[Magnasynn]

It’s been some time. Sideways picture my bad but this is how she’s been! I’ve been waiting on parts and space to yank the motor and determine and amend the issues with it.
Unfortunately I’ve been lost like Atlantis with this thing, lost a ton of interest but hopefully I gain it back and get it apart over the next month so I can figure out what in the heck happened.

 

[Magnasynn]

Little progress is better then none! Hopefully I can yank the trans out tomorrow to make the hot side stuff a little easier to take off.

 

[Skykri]

What exactly are you looking for now?

 

[Magnasynn]

What exactly are you looking for now?

So, the top end has to come off the car. The valve lash on the exhaust valves on #4 are way outta spec and talking with the tuner and some info from a TunedByNishan video indicates 2Step abuse, which correlates to how the car was treated previously.
So I’m gonna refresh the bottom end, rings, bearings if it needs, and because these appear to be the first gen pistons for this 2.3 stroker setup I gotta make sure I don’t have any damage.
Also, I wasn’t expecting to but I got the motor out just in time to head across the country for work for two days so it’ll be ready to pull apart by the time I get back!

I have brand new exhaust valves, Piper UK ultimate road cams and the 72(I believe) LB valvesprings in hopes I can try to get some more of the exhaust out of the head with the additional lift. We are also gonna do some bowl work just to try to cut that rough edge out.

Absolutely was not expecting to have everything out today. I took the difficult route and pulled it out of the top of the bay just because I didn’t want to pull any connections I didn’t have to.

My one regret is that I won’t have a G30/990 to put in place of this 25/660 to make more steam.

Also, [email protected]&# that AC compressor stud. If I can put a bolt in there it’s getting a bolt lol

 

[Magnasynn]

What exactly are you looking for now?

So, the top end has to come off the car. The valve lash on the exhaust valves on #4 are way outta spec and talking with the tuner and some info from a TunedByNishan video indicates 2Step abuse, which correlates to how the car was treated previously.
So I’m gonna refresh the bottom end, rings, bearings if it needs, and because these appear to be the first gen pistons for this 2.3 stroker setup I gotta make sure I don’t have any damage.
Also, I wasn’t expecting to but I got the motor out just in time to head across the country for work for two days so it’ll be ready to pull apart by the time I get back!

Absolutely was not expecting to have everything out today. I took the difficult route and pulled it out of the top of the bay just because I didn’t want to pull any connections I didn’t have to.
Also, [email protected]&# that AC compressor stud. If I can put a bolt in there it’s getting a bolt lol

View attachment 405720

 

[Duece McCracken]

Dude, yes.

**** that AC stud!!

 

[Duece McCracken]

I didnt have a 4mm iirc for it, took the leatherman to it like a savage, lmao

 

[Magnasynn]

I didn’t pull it, I should have. I’m like “oh it’s just a stud I’ll just slide it down and off when the motor comes out”

LIES if it’s off axis even a little it binds up. I had the full weight of the engine hanging over my head on a forklift shaking the crap outta the motor trying to pop it down and loose. Was not a good time but I’m still just amazed at how easy everything came out. I can’t wait to crack it open. Hopefully it’s easy and just some parts replacing will do the trick but I have a hunch it’s gonna be a little more upset then that.

 

[Magnasynn]

It blows me away that this little baby turbo can make over 500 to the tires. If I had the option right now I’d replace it with a G30-900 or a G30-770.

 

[TurboGT]

CPE atmosphere turbo kit??