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2017 ST3-Stroked and Cornfed
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, my name is Jon Langton. I live in the southeast Texas area and I've been a performance enthusiast for some time now. Have owned and Ecoboost Mustang, (which we blew up at 305WHP/402WTQ) a few SRT4 cars, a whipple 03 Cobra, and a whippled 2012 GT which I traded for the current car. A built, big turbo Triple Yellow 2017 ST3. This car belonged to Jordan Laughner out of PA and has done extremely well on the rollers and at the track. I have always wanted one of these, and getting ahold of one that makes 533WHP is just icing on the cake. I do have a few things to iron out on the car, like a P0236/limp mode issue that I've just about narrowed down to MAP/TIP, to the 3.5 full turbo-back exhaust that ends in the rear cavity back there that makes my brain turn to mush.

Other then those small issues, this car is stone stock suspension other then a rear sway bar change and its by far the most fun I've ever had driving anything. I've never owned a car that handles like this.

The car came with a Speed Performance 2.3 stroker and also the SP 4 port aux fuel, a Garret 25-660 turbo, a built trans with carbon synchros, a Quaife and an ACT twin disk.

Im working with Alan @ Edge Autosport to line out some of the issues and maybe recalibrate for my environment. maybe even some more power!


Looking forward to browsing the pages and seeing what I can learn.
 

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Welcome aboard! I laughed at the exhaust "turning your brain to mush". That 3.5 dump has to drone extremely badly. The price of horsepower, right?

Any vids of this car in action?
 

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2017 ST3-Stroked and Cornfed
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome aboard! I laughed at the exhaust "turning your brain to mush". That 3.5 dump has to drone extremely badly. The price of horsepower, right?

Any vids of this car in action?


This is when he had it, after corrections it made 533WHP. I have a drag strip pass but I gotta figure out how to get that up here. I’ll likely upload it to youtube and post it here too.

And yes, the drone is awful. It’s already got a vibrant resonator and I’m at the muffler shop waiting on them to open right now. I’ll be adding some sort of straight through or chambered muffler and getting it all the way out of the back of the car, maybe that fixes it.
 

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This is when he had it, after corrections it made 533WHP. I have a drag strip pass but I gotta figure out how to get that up here. I’ll likely upload it to youtube and post it here too.

And yes, the drone is awful. It’s already got a vibrant resonator and I’m at the muffler shop waiting on them to open right now. I’ll be adding some sort of straight through or chambered muffler and getting it all the way out of the back of the car, maybe that fixes it.
G25 power! Garts Brudda. I'd recommend leaving the head stock, keeps the street driveability way up and you've already got 5.0 shaming powahhhh.

Happy boosting!
 

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This is when he had it, after corrections it made 533WHP. I have a drag strip pass but I gotta figure out how to get that up here. I’ll likely upload it to youtube and post it here too.

And yes, the drone is awful. It’s already got a vibrant resonator and I’m at the muffler shop waiting on them to open right now. I’ll be adding some sort of straight through or chambered muffler and getting it all the way out of the back of the car, maybe that fixes it.
hows that clutch (lol watching the tires spin as you try to get it up on the dyno :))

Yeah im sure the exhaust is insane in person at 3.5" and that motor/turbo. Straight through mufflers/resonators will clean up the sound, will still sound great. Get some videos of the car doing some pulls, would love to see how it pulls in 5th. Ive done some roll racing events in mine (only 400whp) and 3rd and 4th gear would hang with some quick cars but once in 5th, id get pulled on by like FBO 335i's. Would love to see how an extra 100whp+ does :)
 

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2017 ST3-Stroked and Cornfed
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well guys, after driving for a full week, I have come to the conclusion of a couple different things.

First and foremost, it appears that running the SP63 aux. fuel system and a WOTBox in conjunction could be dangerous. I noticed a lean condition in the car during a test pull, and I hesitantly replicated what I thought it was and was correct. Since the fuel system controller senses the ignition pulse to spray fuel, interrupting the signal would mean that it wouldn’t pulse fuel for that period of time, and since the WOTBox seems to be global spark cut instead of individual cylinders, that’s a likely no-no. I’ll have to chat with Alan about the ups and downs of that because it’s a very useful tool being able to WOT shift and keep some amount of boost between the gears, but it’s not worth an engine in the short future. I believe the AP has functionality for flatfoot shifting or WOT shifting, but I’m uncertain.

Also, sweet JESUS this thing is like I’m in a paint can shaker. Balance shaft deleted 2.3 stroker setup, no fluid dampener, Damond upper engine and trans mounts and a Cobb RMM is making this thing rattle apart like I have two 15s in the hatch at full blast all the time. I’ve started the process of ordering some sound deadening to try to get the panels to stop resonating but I’m afraid it’s not going to be able to stop it.

Other then these two concerns, the car is everything I’ve ever wanted in one. The same power level on 93 as my S257SXE cammed SRT4 swapped neon coupe I had on E85 and with most of the good sounds, really more luxury then my 2011 Platinum F150 and it handles better then any car I’ve ever owned.

I’ve been browsing the forums for NVH solutions, but I’m pretty sure I’m just limited. The 3.5” exhaust dumped right behind the drivers rear suspension was 40% of the problem and I affixed a muffler and got it out of the rear valance and it helped a ton. I definitely don’t want to ditch the trans and lower engine mount, but I’m not 100% on the upper and I really just wanna enjoy cruising this thing.
If anyone happens across an idea or a solution on here I haven’t found for the vibration, even just to mitigate, I would be very much appreciated.

As far as current goals go, I primarily want to enjoy taking this anywhere and stomping a mud-hole in the tin can 10R80 cars, and I want to try to get it into the 10s. I’m more of a “play on the street” kinda guy but I do wanna hit the track every so often.
I also wanna try to get it as tame in the cabin as I possibly can. It’s starting to affect almost every panel in the car and it’s too nice to have it fall apart from hotrodding it. I’m gonna have my cake and eat it too if I can!

Here she is at the post office. The Triple Yellow makes me grin and I’ve never been that guy before.

Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle
 

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You could definitely install all 3 softer mounts, but you'll need to account for increased engine movement when under load. I'd personally put new stock upper mounts in, then return to a single stage RMM and see how that holds up. But im sure I'll get some heat for that recommendation.

My main concern is the custom exhaust. How long / how flexible is the flex joint in the downpipe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You guys are lucky to get triple yellow over there, we got stealth grey instead, which would be more accurate if they called it wet weekend, it’s bloody awful. 😆
I really wanted a silver or a blue car but this is seriously growing on me hard. I’ve never been a bright colors guy but I’m finally coming around!
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You could definitely install all 3 softer mounts, but you'll need to account for increased engine movement when under load. I'd personally put new stock upper mounts in, then return to a single stage RMM and see how that holds up. But im sure I'll get some heat for that recommendation.

My main concern is the custom exhaust. How long / how flexible is the flex joint in the downpipe?
The flexible joint I think is about 6 inches long. I’m unsure how long it is but he put a billet down pipe mount in, with what looks like poly bushings down there also. I’ve been looking to find a stock one, cause I don’t see that benefitting much.
 
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Not a fan of silver either tbh.
I have a friend that hates silver and grey because he worked in an auto plant and he thinks they look unfinished because it's so similar to the grey primer 😁
 

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Stealth grey looks exactly like clear coated primer, very dull and drab, if you got a nice car, why not shout about it, with an outstanding colour? 😁
 

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Well guys, after driving for a full week, I have come to the conclusion of a couple different things.

First and foremost, it appears that running the SP63 aux. fuel system and a WOTBox in conjunction could be dangerous. I noticed a lean condition in the car during a test pull, and I hesitantly replicated what I thought it was and was correct. Since the fuel system controller senses the ignition pulse to spray fuel, interrupting the signal would mean that it wouldn’t pulse fuel for that period of time, and since the WOTBox seems to be global spark cut instead of individual cylinders, that’s a likely no-no. I’ll have to chat with Alan about the ups and downs of that because it’s a very useful tool being able to WOT shift and keep some amount of boost between the gears, but it’s not worth an engine in the short future. I believe the AP has functionality for flatfoot shifting or WOT shifting, but I’m uncertain.

Also, sweet JESUS this thing is like I’m in a paint can shaker. Balance shaft deleted 2.3 stroker setup, no fluid dampener, Damond upper engine and trans mounts and a Cobb RMM is making this thing rattle apart like I have two 15s in the hatch at full blast all the time. I’ve started the process of ordering some sound deadening to try to get the panels to stop resonating but I’m afraid it’s not going to be able to stop it.

Other then these two concerns, the car is everything I’ve ever wanted in one. The same power level on 93 as my S257SXE cammed SRT4 swapped neon coupe I had on E85 and with most of the good sounds, really more luxury then my 2011 Platinum F150 and it handles better then any car I’ve ever owned.

I’ve been browsing the forums for NVH solutions, but I’m pretty sure I’m just limited. The 3.5” exhaust dumped right behind the drivers rear suspension was 40% of the problem and I affixed a muffler and got it out of the rear valance and it helped a ton. I definitely don’t want to ditch the trans and lower engine mount, but I’m not 100% on the upper and I really just wanna enjoy cruising this thing.
If anyone happens across an idea or a solution on here I haven’t found for the vibration, even just to mitigate, I would be very much appreciated.

As far as current goals go, I primarily want to enjoy taking this anywhere and stomping a mud-hole in the tin can 10R80 cars, and I want to try to get it into the 10s. I’m more of a “play on the street” kinda guy but I do wanna hit the track every so often.
I also wanna try to get it as tame in the cabin as I possibly can. It’s starting to affect almost every panel in the car and it’s too nice to have it fall apart from hotrodding it. I’m gonna have my cake and eat it too if I can!

Here she is at the post office. The Triple Yellow makes me grin and I’ve never been that guy before.

View attachment 399021
I believe you should turn off the Cobb FFS as this does cut fuel and not spark. I was researching a wot box and was in contact with another group member while he was installing his. The wot box cuts spark and you have to get the cut time dialed in or you get a good backfire getting back into it. My main concern as well as the guy that installed it was a lean out when the Cobb cut fuel FFS but the PI kept fueling. This will lean out but maybe beyond cause for alarm and not hot enough burn pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I believe you should turn off the Cobb FFS as this does cut fuel and not spark. I was researching a wot box and was in contact with another group member while he was installing his. The wot box cuts spark and you have to get the cut time dialed in or you get a good backfire getting back into it. My main concern as well as the guy that installed it was a lean out when the Cobb cut fuel FFS but the PI kept fueling. This will lean out but maybe beyond cause for alarm and not hot enough burn pistons.
I will absolutely look into it! I only noticed the lean condition based on the break-up I experienced and for a an extremely brief period of time the car was WOT at nearly 14.0 AFR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I believe you should turn off the Cobb FFS as this does cut fuel and not spark. I was researching a wot box and was in contact with another group member while he was installing his. The wot box cuts spark and you have to get the cut time dialed in or you get a good backfire getting back into it. My main concern as well as the guy that installed it was a lean out when the Cobb cut fuel FFS but the PI kept fueling. This will lean out but maybe beyond cause for alarm and not hot enough burn pistons.
I will absolutely look into it! I only noticed the lean condition based on the break-up I experienced and for a an extremely brief period of time the car was WOT at nearly 14.0 AFR.
 

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