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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all! New to the forum and semi-new to the ST. I have a 17 ST1 with the 3 inch Injen intake and NGK step colder plugs plus a 93 tune.

I noticed with the new tune, the engine likes to cut out at 1k RPM on a hill under load when pulling out. Is this normal with the tune? I had the tune revised and it slightly made the engine pull better down low, but still when the RPM's hit 1k under load the engine just bogs to a stall until unloaded with clutch in. Stock tune will pull engine out of this.

I had the event data logged and the person who helped me tunes v8 Mustangs and said it looked like the throttle was closing when gas pedal was being pressed in during this event. I have data logs for stock and 93 tune I can include where this did not occur/occurred with both tunes respectively. If anyone has any input it would be greatly appreciated as I do not know if I can safely drive with the tune.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/kb1ist5t6f2kg82/2015focusWill Bowen stock tune log.csv?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/22f50obpcxeg7y0/2015focus Will Bowen unleashed 93 tune.csv?dl=0
 

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Why would you be laboring the engine by putting it under load under 1000rpm? you are asking for LSPI.

My advice is driver mod where you don't drive a turbo car like a V8. You should never be putting this car under load under 2000 rpm, let alone under 1000rpm.
 

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Better question... if your car is tuned, WHY HAVEN'T YOU CONTACTED YOUR TUNER?
 

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if I accendentally let the clutch out too fast with out enough throttle, that is the only time I've even been moving and doing near 1k, and in first gear there is absolutely no power until the rpm's get up a little bit and the boost starts rolling in, I dont think any tune is going to be able to fix that coming from a small displacement engine with a relatively low compression ratio and a turbo. this isn't a 426 stroker that will just rip at any RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the warm welcome! lol I have contacted them and they sent a revised tune that helped a little. The stock tune will pull the car differently I have a friend verify who owns a stock '14. I was wondering if it's just the way the tune operates and if I should give it more gas :) seems like the consensus
 

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Look at it this way. If this minor issue were a catastrophic failure instead, aka hole in the block, rod hanging out like strangled Jabba's tongue, you would go straight to your tuner to blame, right? Why wouldn't you talk to him/her about small nags before they have the chance to become a huge failure? The tuner should be the first contact (and they'll tell you only) if ANYTHING weird or unexpected happens with how your car is running after being tuned.

Failure to communicate is the #1 reason for engine failures. You feel a weird power drop, a miss, a cut out, get out of it, if you have to drive, drive easy, get your tuner on the phone asap. They'll probably ask for a log to check health.

Forums are great for stock issues, part and service advice, or STOCK tune wonkiness reports and feedback, but once you're tuned, you, your car, and your tuner should be like the Three Amigos working to make sure everything is tip top to ensure a long healthy relationship. Don't be scared to talk to the tuner!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have reached out to the tuner and while he is very quick to respond, he is very short winded. I sent him my concerns and he had me data log the incident. The only response back was, "File is attached", with a new tune. I assume he is busy and do not want to bug him. I brought this issue here to see if any other tuners or those with tuning knowledge had any input.
 

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Guessing it's Torrie from Unleashed, he sends very quick non detailed responses but knows his ****
lol read my mind. Torrie is good people though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You guys are spot on with your assumption hahaha. Why won't the car run at 1k Rpm is bugging the crap out of me. It doesn't even have to be on a hill. I was on flat ground and you can't even hit the gas from idle on flat ground at 1k without the car diying until you depress the clutch and unload the engine completely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Post was worded badly. You can't coast at 1k rpm and hit the gas without the car cutting out until you unload by depressing the clutch. You should be able to do that in pretty sure lmao. Driven sticks my whole life. Maybe not boosted but it seems weird to me.
 

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That is called lugging the engine and is common, especially on high(er) performance cars with big cams, not that ours are.

Idling without load is one thing, trying to put a load on a slow moving ICE will result in bucking the severity of which directly relates to load level, throttle position, and rpm.
 

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lol this thread is still going...

Don't try driving an ST around the 1k rpm mark, if that's your thing I suggest the diesel variant.
 

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Post was worded badly. You can't coast at 1k rpm and hit the gas without the car cutting out until you unload by depressing the clutch. You should be able to do that in pretty sure lmao. Driven sticks my whole life. Maybe not boosted but it seems weird to me.
Here let me offer input. This is my second stick car, first was 2004 Acura TSX. I had no idea what lugging was. Nobody ever told me, nobody with more experience than me ever rode with me to correct me, so lugged the crap out of that car. I only learned about it when researching to buy my ST If you don't know what that is, it is putting the car under heavy load at low RPM's. So like, going WOT at 1k RPM. This is bad for all engines but especially turbo engines. You are opening the throttle body and so much air is flodding the cylinder and cylinder pressures increase drastically. With N/A engines, it's not as big of a deal, but with turbos, cylinder pressures are already higher, adding the extra pressure, but low engine speed so that pressure keeps building and can't escape via exhaust valves because the exhaust cycle hasn't happened yet, and you get super knock and your engine grenades pretty quickly. Look up LSPI and lugging. It's been a thing for a while and was majorly present on the MazdaSpeed 3. There's some safeguards in place now, and as I'm typing this, your engine bogging may easily be those safe guards telling you to knock that **** off. When driving, even coasting, I don't let my revs get below 1750. Now if you're idling in complete neutral and you floor it and the engine bogs, then you have a problem, but if you are under load and at 1k rpm and floor it, say goodbye to your rods and rings and start calling for a tow, especially with a tune because your pressures are much higher than stock. If you keep driving it like that, it probably won't make it to the end of the year.

Your tuner is right, there's probably nothing wrong with your car right now, it's just how you drive it. I'm pretty surprised he didn't tell you to knock it off though unless you didn't mention the 1k
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for all the responses. I guess it's a driver mod needed and that's all. I was just involved in an accident in the poor thing with only 7k miles on it. I wasn't at fault and the other guy didn't have insurance. So far $10.6k worth of damage but they haven't even torn it down yet... who knows how long they will take and I have to pay for rental as it wasn't on policy and he doesn't have insurance since he was at fault.
 

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Thanks for all the responses. I guess it's a driver mod needed and that's all. I was just involved in an accident in the poor thing with only 7k miles on it. I wasn't at fault and the other guy didn't have insurance. So far $10.6k worth of damage but they haven't even torn it down yet... who knows how long they will take and I have to pay for rental as it wasn't on policy and he doesn't have insurance since he was at fault.
That's a dog crap deal there, man. Sucks doesn't begin to describe it. Might be better off if they total it so you can move on?
 
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