installed the JBR shift arm with all counter weights and JBR shift knob installed. Tried 40% and 20% reduction. 40% reduction is ridiculously short..going to take a little time to get used to. Effort to engage gears is not too bad, probably similar effort to having the steeda bracket installed....but again it's ridiculously short...almost too short. Giving 40% reduction a try for a while...may end up switching to 20% later (easy to switch).
forgot to mention a couple things on the install. Very easy..only parts that were a bit of a pain were getting the roll pin out of the stock shift arm (wacked my fingers a couple times) and which hardware to use. I'm not very mechanically included/not a lot of experience installing car parts (being honest here) so identifying which hardware to use was a bit of a guessing game. It all worked out so no real complaints.
Just finished installing last night and everything went great. Is there a special way to put the shift cable end back on? When I pushed it back on the stud it didn't seem to "snap" in and I can remove it by hand just by pulling it up with not a lot of force, which others describe they need to use a flathead to get it off like when originally removed. I'm a little worried about it popping off the stud.
Just finished installing last night and everything went great. Is there a special way to put the shift cable end back on? When I pushed it back on the stud it didn't seem to "snap" in and I can remove it by hand just by pulling it up with not a lot of force, which others describe they need to use a flathead to get it off like when originally removed. I'm a little worried about it popping off the stud.
There are little ears in the underside of then cable head. You can carefully, squeeze them together a bit and it should click on better. Don't keep pulling it off and putting it back on if you can help it. The cables are not designed for that.
There are little ears in the underside of then cable head. You can carefully, squeeze them together a bit and it should click on better. Don't keep pulling it off and putting it back on if you can help it. The cables are not designed for that.
I moved the stud down to 20% and I had to remove it with the method on your instructions so I guess it was secured on there properly in the first place. When I first put it on the stud to "test fit it", I must have not put it on right and was able to pull it off by hand and then properly put it on. I went for a little test drive and I'm absolutely loving it on the 20% reduction.
I've been running the Boomba plate but I've been wanting to try out one of the arms to see what the difference is. Just ordered this one, can't wait to try it out.
Finally got around to installing this last night and couldn't be happier. Set it to 40% with my weighted knob and shifting is smooth and precise. Install only took about an hour from start to finish.
We anticipated this question and below is our response.
The cable height of our shift arm is only 3/16" (see pictures below) higher than the OEM. This is well within the safe articulation range of the cable. We have no personal experience with the Breedt arm so, I cannot comment on the difference with it. We do know several people with the Breedt arm that have never had any issues.
It's our opinion that there is no real issue with the Breedt arm. We do however believe many of the issues people are experiencing with it and other adapters are two fold. First, the method used to remove the cable from the OEM arm is one. Prying it off with a screw driver often leads to damaging the tabs that secure it to the mounting stud. Also, the use of the needless replacement bushing is a major contributor to the problems people are having with the Breedt arm or any arm or adapter. Removing the factory cable end and replacing it with a replacement bushing should NEVER be done. The cushion and subsequent play in the OEM cable end is there for a reason.
There is some validity to the issues people are having with adapters that mount on top of the OEM arm that significantly raise the cable height. This is one of the main reasons we went with a complete arm.
The OEM cable should be removed properly by depressing the center with a tool such as a philps head screw driver while lifting the cable off, either by hand or with a flat head screw driver. This procedure properly spreads the tabs inside the cup and releases the cable without force.
We have thoroughly test our arm and have never had any issues. Typical test setup consisted of the arm with varying counter weight configurations, solid shifter base bushings, solid cable mounting bracket bushings and a heavy shift knob.
Cable height differences...
OEM is at 1-5/16"
JBR is at 1.5"
The cable should only be removed using this method...
Just curious in this reply Jamie clearly states the factory end bushings should NEVER be replaced or changed because the factory bushings have some play and squishiness to them for a reason...yet later they starting to produce their own solid end bushings...so I guess my question is why? Why at first were you so against it only to go back on something you seemed so sincere on saying should never be done. Seems fishy.
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In order to enter a corner at high speed under hard braking and without upsetting the car, you must be able to perform a heel-toe maneuver while downshifting. The...
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Geez, talk about keeping the aftermarket going!
Of course I get the email after I buy the Boomba, lol.
Hats off to you guys/gals. Really churning out stuff we want, just fantastic!
New Product Release!!
The JBR 2013+ Focus ST/RS Stage 2 Rear Torque Mount!!
ONLY $149.00 Shipped Domestic! At this price why buy ANY other mount!?!
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The JBR Stage 2 Rear Torque Mount is a full replacement for the OEM mount and the transmission bracket.
The JBR STage 2 Rear Torque...
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Duece McCracken · updated 
