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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone! After over a year of surfing this forum (it helped inspire me to purchase my 2016 Focus ST2 - thanks for that!), I've finally become a member. I just wish it was under better circumstances...

My Kona Blue ST is a daily driver so I've *tried* to take it easy on the modifications (not easy enough according to my wife), e.g., rear sway, MP275, Damond catch cans, etc. My most recent mods (this week...) were an upgraded rear motor mount and Quaife diff, which I had installed at a popular shop in the LA area. When I picked up the car, the shop staff said that the clutch had started acting up after the install during the shake-down drive. Specifically, when the clutch pedal is depressed while the tranny is in neutral, it hangs near the floor for a second or so before slowly returning. The problem is less pronounced when driving so long as shifting is undertaken slowly and smoothly. That said, as soon as you start shifting quickly - like, for instance when trying to merge onto the 5 highway in heavy traffic... -the pedal will begin hanging again.

I chatted with the guys at the shop and they said there was NO sign of any leaking when they dropped my tranny and all the parts, at least from the outside, looked in excellent condition which I would expect considering the car has less that 7000 miles on it.

I've looked on this and other forums but have yet to find a definitive answer as to what the problem could be. There is no leakage or shifting issues, so I doubt it is the Master or Slave cylinder. There is no noise or vibration, so I doubt it is the throw-out bearing. Based on my chats with the shop tech, I think air most likely got in the line during the diff install; however, they said they bled the hydraulics several times when trying to troubleshoot the problem!! Sigh... I'm at a loss. What do y'all think?
 

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Your clutch worked perfectly fine before the LSD install?

If so, Occam's razor states that they messed up your transmission during the install. You need to go back to the shop that installed your LSD and have them check everything from start to finish.
 

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Hi! And let me be the first to welcome you to the community!

Big thing, don't panic. Our cars' pedals are all drive by wire, including the clutch, and to my knowledge, there isn't any feedback built into the pedal, its just a spring and lever with a sensor attached. I would get in that footwell and make sure there are no obstructions to the pedal, make sure the pedal has enough grease on the moving parts, no wires or anything hanging low catching on it, etc.

Hopefully that will solve your problem, if not I would take it to a mechanic who knows these cars better than I do, I don't have a degree or anything, I just love my st and I looked the car over inside and out top to bottom when I bought it to know how most of it works. Also the wonderful people on here have a wealth of knowledge and that always helps too :)

Here is a direct link to a pedal assembly listing on eBay, you can see in the pictures how it bolts up and where the wires connect for the drive by wire system.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/192241300120

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Hi! And let me be the first to welcome you to the community!

Big thing, don't panic. Our cars' pedals are all drive by wire, including the clutch, and to my knowledge, there isn't any feedback built into the pedal, its just a spring and lever with a sensor attached. I would get in that footwell and make sure there are no obstructions to the pedal, make sure the pedal has enough grease on the moving parts, no wires or anything hanging low catching on it, etc.

Hopefully that will solve your problem, if not I would take it to a mechanic who knows these cars better than I do, I don't have a degree or anything, I just love my st and I looked the car over inside and out top to bottom when I bought it to know how most of it works. Also the wonderful people on here have a wealth of knowledge and that always helps too :)

Here is a direct link to a pedal assembly listing on eBay, you can see in the pictures how it bolts up and where the wires connect for the drive by wire system.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/192241300120

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Ok. The gas is drive by wire and that’s it. The clutch and he braking system are not. The connector on the clutch assembly is for the neutral safety switch. I do believe it would have to have air in the system for it to be hanging low under spirited driving. I agree to the above to where he said to take it back. They worked on it and it does not work the way it was dropped if to them.


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100% the place that worked on it SCREWED IT UP.

Big total guess: possible is the new diff is not shimmed correctly inside the case
and is not at the correct height sticking out of the transmission,
so it is pressing on the clutch the wrong way/amount?
 

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Big thing, don't panic. Our cars' pedals are all drive by wire, including the clutch, and to my knowledge, there isn't any feedback built into the pedal, its just a spring and lever with a sensor attached. I would get in that footwell and make sure there are no obstructions to the pedal, make sure the pedal has enough grease on the moving parts, no wires or anything hanging low catching on it, etc.
whoa whoa whoa, where the heck did you hear that? before giving people wrong and bad advice, you might want to learn a few things about your own car or at least take a look under the hood... shoot, even if you have read a single one of the hundred threads or so about just simple clutch springs IF it was a simple drive by wire pedal, then all of those people that take their springs completely out would never get their clutches to ever pop back out with out a spring of some sorts. but actually when you let go of the clutch pedal, the pressure plate pushed back the throw out bearing back which then pushes the pedal back out

Here is a direct link to a pedal assembly listing on eBay, you can see in the pictures how it bolts up and where the wires connect for the drive by wire system.
and you are porobably better off showing a listing for the whole assembly, not just half of it...

take a look at this assembly and you can clearly see the hydraulic cylinder that the pedal operates that is still attached to this parts listing...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2014-...ash=item3f8723a056:g:ZeEAAOSwKcdZvXzw&vxp=mtr




or better yet, here is a blown apart parts diagram and you can easily see the clutch cylinder...
RenderIllustration.jpg


as far as the OP: it sounds to me like something is not aligned right inside the trans and the throwout bearing is not moving freely. I would have them take a look at this immediately before it causes other problems.
 

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whoa whoa whoa, where the heck did you hear that? before giving people wrong and bad advice, you might want to learn a few things about your own car or at least take a look under the hood... shoot, even if you have read a single one of the hundred threads or so about just simple clutch springs IF it was a simple drive by wire pedal, then all of those people that take their springs completely out would never get their clutches to ever pop back out with out a spring of some sorts. but actually when you let go of the clutch pedal, the pressure plate pushed back the throw out bearing back which then pushes the pedal back out


and you are porobably better off showing a listing for the whole assembly, not just half of it...

take a look at this assembly and you can clearly see the hydraulic cylinder that the pedal operates that is still attached to this parts listing...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2014-...ash=item3f8723a056:g:ZeEAAOSwKcdZvXzw&vxp=mtr




or better yet, here is a blown apart parts diagram and you can easily see the clutch cylinder...
View attachment 303554


as far as the OP: it sounds to me like something is not aligned right inside the trans and the throwout bearing is not moving freely. I would have them take a look at this immediately before it causes other problems.
.... *is extremely embarrassed* well.....that's what I get for believing everything I hear... The guy who told me that was talking out his arse then.. *sigh* sorry to OP and to the rest of you. Ill make sure not to speak up in the future if I only think I know the answer to something as opposed to having an encyclopedia in front of me. Gonna quote myself on this "I don't have a degree" so gonna leave it to the people who do from now on. Best of luck with the clutch problem.

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100% the place that worked on it SCREWED IT UP.

Big total guess: possible is the new diff is not shimmed correctly inside the case
and is not at the correct height sticking out of the transmission,
so it is pressing on the clutch the wrong way/amount?
.... *is extremely embarrassed* well.....that's what I get for believing everything I hear... The guy who told me that was talking out his arse then.. *sigh* sorry to OP and to the rest of you. Ill make sure not to speak up in the future if I only think I know the answer to something as opposed to having an encyclopedia in front of me. Gonna quote myself on this "I don't have a degree" so gonna leave it to the people who do from now on. Best of luck with the clutch problem.

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Dude, you are good. We appreciate all input, just try to make sure it's correct otherwise it can really make someone have a bad day. With that said, you clearly stated you weren't sure in your original post. It's all good!

I agree with @E.E. . It needs to go back to that shop until they get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey everyone! Thanks for your input :)

I'm REALLY hoping the issue is nothing more than a little more air in the line. I would love to take it back to the shop that did the work; however, with an impending move out-of-state on the horizon (two weeks to go), I don't have time to take the car back to LA. I've booked an appointment for tomorrow at a highly rated Bay Area dealership to diagnose/fix the problem. My expectation is that the LA shop will reimburse me for any work that has to be done based on the work THEY did last week. Here's hoping, eh? I'll keep y'all updated.
 

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Hey everyone! Thanks for your input :)

I'm REALLY hoping the issue is nothing more than a little more air in the line. I would love to take it back to the shop that did the work; however, with an impending move out-of-state on the horizon (two weeks to go), I don't have time to take the car back to LA. I've booked an appointment for tomorrow at a highly rated Bay Area dealership to diagnose/fix the problem. My expectation is that the LA shop will reimburse me for any work that has to be done based on the work THEY did last week. Here's hoping, eh? I'll keep y'all updated.
I understand how life circumstances can get in the way. But honestly I think your setting yourself up for a very uphill battle if you figure you can get a different shop to do the diagnosis, fix & bill their usual rates expecting the original shop to simply pay up. If I were the original shop I would only offer half the bill you present (if any at all frankly) for a # reasons but mainly because reality is if my shop had done the work the actual cost of the work is probably half what the bill says, or to some degree, hopefully you get the point I am trying to make.

Not criticizing just offering an opinion as it could save you some money potentially.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey Straightline,

I agree completely. That said, the car needs to be on a trailer heading for MI in two weeks. As such, getting the problem sorted is more pressing than the potential cost of the repairs. Sigh... I'll reach out to the original shop and see what, if anything, they may be willing to do if the problem turns out to be a result of their work. They've been helpful/accommodating thus far so hopefully they will continue to be. "Wish in one hand and *&^% in the other," right?
 

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Dude, you are good. We appreciate all input, just try to make sure it's correct otherwise it can really make someone have a bad day. With that said, you clearly stated you weren't sure in your original post. It's all good!

I agree with @E.E. . It needs to go back to that shop until they get it right.
See, now if the other guy had worded it that way instead of tearing me apart in his post, I wouldn't have been so upset. Thanks for being chill about it. :) I was merely trying to think outside the box. That being said, I did sound a little bit like a know-it-all in my original post, which wasnt intended, and I guess it triggered something in the other guy. Oh well, moving on with life. Best of luck to OP, hope it gets fixed.

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I'm sorry, I didn't mean it to sound quite as bad as it came out. It's just one of my biggest pet peeves (and it's really bad on one of my other forums) is when somebody will offer a recommendation while either having no mechanical experience or doesn't know about how the system they are talking about really works. Wasn't trying to sound that mean.

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Car shipping services aren't that badly priced as long as you have some open timeframe on when it can be shipped. Truckers are always looking for a car to load and take one way or the other, given a large enough window.

If it were me, I'd leave it at the original shop to get fixed correctly, with the agreement that the car may need to be stored for a week or so so that a shipper can be utilized AFTER it's fixed 100%.
 

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Hey everyone! Thanks for your input :)

I'm REALLY hoping the issue is nothing more than a little more air in the line. I would love to take it back to the shop that did the work; however, with an impending move out-of-state on the horizon (two weeks to go), I don't have time to take the car back to LA. I've booked an appointment for tomorrow at a highly rated Bay Area dealership to diagnose/fix the problem. My expectation is that the LA shop will reimburse me for any work that has to be done based on the work THEY did last week. Here's hoping, eh? I'll keep y'all updated.
Good luck on that one.. May the stars align..
 

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I'm sorry, I didn't mean it to sound quite as bad as it came out. It's just one of my biggest pet peeves (and it's really bad on one of my other forums) is when somebody will offer a recommendation while either having no mechanical experience or doesn't know about how the system they are talking about really works. Wasn't trying to sound that mean.

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Its cool bro. Forgive and forget ;)

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The only reason I don't think it's going to be simple air in the line, is that air in the line would be very noticeable in the feeling of the clutch pedal going in. It would have a very soft and spongy feel to it.

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I have quite a bit of experience on this subject...

The clutch system is super easy to bleed. So i really doubt theres air in it if they bled it.

Master cylinder failure does not always have leaks. I've done two without any external leaks, just blown seals. One was slow intermittent failure. The other i felt blow when i slammed the clutch in. So it could be a master on its way out. A cheap part, and an easy swap.

Some more driving feeback would be nice. How does the car shift while its not running? Im on mobile, when i get home i will get a better post. Gtg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Howdy y'all! Sorry I've been away. I've been traveling for work...

Duece - The pedal certainly feels spongier than it did before I dropped it off for the work... Aside from that, the car slips into gear easily both from neutral and when progressing up and down through the gears; no noise, no vibration, no grinding. The only issue is that the pedal "hangs" on the floor for a moment when depressed in neutral before slowly releasing. It also sticks slightly when running through the gears quickly.

The dealership worked on the car while I was away and they confirmed that there are no leaks in the system, air, or ballooning hoses. After speaking to the Ford hotline, they have determined (with, and I quote, "90% certainty") that the clutch pedal assembly (pedal+spring+master-cylinder) is faulty. Seeing as they are replacing it under warranty, here's hoping that is what it is. Needless to say, I'm hoping it's just "one of those things". If not, they are going to replace the slave. I'll let everyone know either way...

Oh! I called the popular shop in SoCal that did the work and they said they will cover the cost of any repairs that have to be done that have anything to do with the work they did. Again, fingers crossed.
 
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