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2016 ST3 Race Red
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally bought my new (old) Focus ST. It's a 2016 Focus ST ST3 in Race Red color, with 76k miles. Only three updates ever done by the old and 1st owner were the blow-off valve, green air filter and Rally Armour mud flaps.

I bought these and will install this weekend: Mountune symposer delete, Gorilla stainless steel lug nuts, DDPai Mini5 dash cam and passenger grill for fog lights. During the week I installed the new USB hub and updated Sync3 so now I have Apple CarPlay working.

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As maintenance I did spark plugs change (one step colder NKG), brake fluid flush (Motorcraft) and coolant completion (Peak Orange) last weekend. I will do transmission fluid change (Motul), engine oil change (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) with Motorcraft FL-400S filter and Ford Passenger Motor Mount this weekend as well.

Next mods/maintenance that are in my list (next month only - I already spent a lot) are Mountune RMM, change 2 tires (I'm looking at Michelin Pilot Sport 4 A/S), brake pads/rotors and some underbody rust treatment (CRC remover/converter/proof seems to be the one I'll do).
 

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2014 ST3. Garrett Powermax turbo, Thermal Turboback, CPE intercooler, JBR intake, Innovative RMM
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Welcome! Red always looks good on these cars.
 

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2013 Ford Focus ST
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Welcome! Red always looks good on these cars.
Welcome to the insanity! Knocked out a lot of the key upgrade/maintenance items real quick there! Nice!
Once the bank account recovers, a FMIC would be highly recommended!
Good luck, cars looks greeat!
 

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2016 ST3 Race Red
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome to the insanity! Knocked out a lot of the key upgrade/maintenance items real quick there! Nice!
Once the bank account recovers, a FMIC would be highly recommended!
Good luck, cars looks greeat!
The previous owner took very good care on the car (he works at Ford and knows how to keep it), it's very good mechanically, but I always like to change fluids when buying used cars as I don't know when it was done last time. The car is approaching 80k, so another maintenance I have in mind is intake/valves cleaning to remove carbon deposit, but I'm really not sure if walnut blast worth it or if I should go somewhere with a 3C Intelligent Induction Cleaner to have it cleaned chemically.
 

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The previous owner took very good care on the car (he works at Ford and knows how to keep it), it's very good mechanically, but I always like to change fluids when buying used cars as I don't know when it was done last time. The car is approaching 80k, so another maintenance I have in mind is intake/valves cleaning to remove carbon deposit, but I'm really not sure if walnut blast worth it or if I should go somewhere with a 3C Intelligent Induction Cleaner to have it cleaned chemically.
Doing the valves yourself is fairly easy; the intake manifold comes right off. I use rubbing alcohol to clean mine; add some alcohol to the closed valves and let it sit for 20 or 30 minutes and agitate with some brass brittle wire bottle brushes I got at Harbor Freight, vacuum, rotate engine, do the next set of valves, repeat.
 

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2016 ST3 Race Red
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My hobbyist tools weren't strong enough for the lug nut replacement from Ford OEM to Gorilla stainless steel on 3 wheels. I took the car to a tire shop today and the guy hammered the 19mm drive into the nuts with a heavy duty hammer to be able to attach it and remove the nuts. If I ever had to change tires on the road with OEM lug nuts I would've been on a very bad situation.

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2013 TS ST3, with some stuff done.
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After cleaning the valve, definitely fit a catch can, to reduce them getting carbon coated again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After cleaning the valve, definitely fit a catch can, to reduce them getting carbon coated again.
I was wondering. If I have to clean it at 80k and then again at 160k, wouldn't it be good enough? Isn't a catch can an overkill if I do the oil change regularly?
 

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I was wondering. If I have to clean it at 80k and then again at 160k, wouldn't it be good enough? Isn't a catch can an overkill if I do the oil change regularly?
Without a catch can you really should clean them about every 15 to 20,000 miles. They coke up pretty quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Without a catch can you really should clean them about every 15 to 20,000 miles. They coke up pretty quickly.
I might get a borescope then to check how bad it is and also double check with the previous owner, I don't believe it was ever cleaned. My handheld vacuum cleaner is underpowered for this task and I'm really afraid to let any solid particulate fall into the chamber and damage walls, turbo inlets or catalytic converter.
 

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2016 ST2, Absolute Black, Monster FMIC, Turbosmart BPV, ALEX' Shift Bushings,PCV-OCC, Innovative RMM
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I might get a borescope then to check how bad it is and also double check with the previous owner, I don't believe it was ever cleaned. My handheld vacuum cleaner is underpowered for this task and I'm really afraid to let any solid particulate fall into the chamber and damage walls, turbo inlets or catalytic converter.
Anybody have a favorite borescope for such a task? Saw a cheap one recently, but the display resolution was pretty low.

I'm currently running a PCV can, probably get a radium plate too at some point.
 

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Doing the valves yourself is fairly easy; the intake manifold comes right off. I use rubbing alcohol to clean mine; add some alcohol to the closed valves and let it sit for 20 or 30 minutes and agitate with some brass brittle wire bottle brushes I got at Harbor Freight, vacuum, rotate engine, do the next set of valves, repeat.
Is there a tutorial or a Youtube video you would suggest as a guide?
 

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This the amount of fluid captured in my catch can, after just 900m miles, which would have otherwise, flowed through the inlet and over the valves.
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2016 ST2, Absolute Black, Monster FMIC, Turbosmart BPV, ALEX' Shift Bushings,PCV-OCC, Innovative RMM
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Doing the valves yourself is fairly easy; the intake manifold comes right off. I use rubbing alcohol to clean mine; add some alcohol to the closed valves and let it sit for 20 or 30 minutes and agitate with some brass brittle wire bottle brushes I got at Harbor Freight, vacuum, rotate engine, do the next set of valves, repeat.
Do you use the tapered brushes or a set with handle, or the straight ones like this:


I noticed northern tool had a set with nice looking handle, maybe better than gun cleaning brush set?

 

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If you don't want to head down the media blasting route...
 

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Do you use the tapered brushes or a set with handle, or the straight ones like this:


I noticed northern tool had a set with nice looking handle, maybe better than gun cleaning brush set?

Just likethe top ones.
 

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Thanks for the video reference, SSgt! The presenter in the video makes a passing reference to a product (or class of products) that will work to maintain the valve cleanliness if they are not yet dirty (or have already been cleaned). My 2017 has less than 20kmi, and I would guess that the valves aren't too dirty yet. Is there any sort of maintenance that will prevent them from getting dirty to begin with (other than a catch can)?
 
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