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Discussion Starter #1
I recently installed Steeda's FMIC. I switched the tune from Cobb's OTS Stage 1 to Stage 2 and took it for a test drive. Immediately after stepping on the pedal I could feel a severe loss of power. I only hit around 7 psi of boost at WOT and I cannot figure out where the leak is.

When I swapped the map sensor over to the hole in the Steeda, I really had to jam it in there because the o ring was a little too big apparently. That was the only issue that occurred during the install. So, after tightening the clamps on the pipes on the intercooler and seeing no difference in boost, I pulled the MAP sensor and saw that I had cut off one of the edges on the rim of the o ring. I popped on a new one that I had that was nearly identical in size, but a very small amount smaller. I greased it up with Super Lube and when I put it back into the hole it still had slight resistance but not nearly as bad as before. Test drove it again, and still 7 psi was all that I would get max. Then, I took the Steeda out and put the stock intercooler back on, and I'm still having the same issue. The only thing I can figure is that this has to do with the o ring because that's the only part different about the car now, but the size difference is so insignificant and to me it still feels like the ring is providing a seal. I've also considered that maybe I shook one of the other ends of a pipe loose during the install, but I've tugged on them and felt the clamps and everything else still feels snug.

Any advice?
 

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Make sure you aren't in the eco slot. Hit the cruise control paddle without hitting ON first like you normally would and press up/down to cycle through the slots.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The shift light on the instrument cluster and your tach will display a number and change.
I know, sorry I should have worded the question better. I meant like how do I know what is placed in a certain slot
 

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If you aren't on the Eco map, which I'd say is the cause around 80% of the time, then basic troubleshooting techniques apply: if you just changed something, and now the system doesn't work right, look at what you just changed first. Triple check all the band clamps.

You can check for leaks under vacuum (idle) by spraying starter fluid at the various joints and possible leak points in the IC assembly. If the engine RPM surges suddenly, you have found a leak. Since there is a bit more piping between the IC and the cylinder in this [turbo] car than most NA cars, wait about a second after each spray to give the starter fluid (if any) time to make it to the combustion chamber.
 

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I did not know about the fact I could change my tune like that.

This is awesome! Is my cobb stage 1 ots supposed to have just 2 selections?
 

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STacy, any luck with figuring out what was going on? I installed depo's SOB with their IC piping yesterday and got the same result. 5 to 6 PSI of boost at WOT. I have AP3 and Cobb's OTS stage 1. I wanted to step up to their OTS stage 2 anyway so may try flashing that and see if it helps.

Back under the car this morning and found one of the hose clamps from the IC to the throttle body was loose. The tube had backed off a bit but not completely separated. I'm using the factory clamps because the T bolts from Depo simply are not big enough. I can insert the bolt in the barrel of the clamp but get no threads no matter how hard I squeeze. Reseated the tube and tightened up the clamp. Checked all the clamps again then went for a drive. I'm back on boost again. Went ahead with the Cobb stage 2 93. Hmm...what down pipe to choose?
 
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