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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Focus ST

I'm a newbie with a 2015 Focus ST with about 30K. I purchased it second hand. I brought it to the dealer to get a couple of Factory recalls taken care of. At the time (a month or so ago) I didn't know enough to know how little I knew about direct injected turbo engines and to quash my angst about dirty intake valves I had them do a ~ $187.50 squirt through the intake manifold. Since then I figured out it's probably a bad idea to do such a thing where the squirt can wash oil from the turbo turbine bearings and light a pretty big fire around the same area (causing erosion of the turbine) and according to some Ford folks can trash your turbo either right away, in short order or in long order.

My philosophy in life is if you're not voiding a warranty on something you own, you're probably not having as much fun as you can! Think about it for a second. Many folks dread the thought of having to shell out some money and not do what can just be plain be fun, but won't hesitate to gamble their life that their skills are in tune enough to postpone the inevitable when at minimum breaking the legal speed limits and probably more often than should be: breaking the laws of physics!

Anyway I'm in the process of installing a Mountune breather and recirculate. The intake manifold needed to come off. Less than about 1,000 miles since my ~ $187.50 squirt I had a look at my intake valves. I can tell you the $187.50 was a waste of money. I just hope mounting biking with my Fat Bike (BTW fits in the back of my ST with seats down) helps my arteries look somewhat better than those intake valves did.

I fabricated a pretty slick Walnut shell blaster from Harbor Freight, Lowes and McMaster stuff. It even looks pretty kool. Mind you it isn't severely optimized, and takes probably 10 minutes per valve to clean, but it's good enough for me. I used a piece of 1/4" Lexan (even the scratch resistant variety) for the manifold adaptor. Pretty kool, I marked things being able to see through the Lexan! Thus far only did 2 cylinders, but they look great. Tomorrow will finish up. Second cylinder took about 10 minutes.
Is anyone interested in me documenting and sharing this great information?

BTW I actually purchased smoked the 1/4" scratch resistant Lexan from McMaster for a window on the top of my Airbox to allow viewing on my Mountune air filter. I'm using McMaster trilobal special stainless hardware that mushes it's way into the plastic and stays "stuck".
Is anyone interested in me documenting this as well?

I'm going to remove the nose of the car and install Mountune intercooler and new "much more better" flow plumbing, look better and probably has a better service life. When I do so, being the idiot I am, will try to shoehorn in a pair of Hella Supertone and Sharp tones (this is in addition to the factory horns). Bending, mutilating and melting a little metal doesn't scare me much. Idea is if you hit the horn for a second, only the factory horns come on. For more than a second, the twin pair adds their nonsense! I already selected the delay and tested it on the bench and it sounds "GREAT"! Did I say something? I can't hear what I just said! You can adjust delay from 1/10 of a second in 1/10 second increments till probably more than 5 seconds.
Anyone interested in me documenting and sharing all bits and pieces?

One pet peeve I had with this Focus (and my wife's SE) is that the fool harness tape and associated electrical tape from the factory is unraveling in many an area. Being anal I purchased some High Temp Silicone tape with tapered edges from McMaster and attacked the poor car. I cut away all loose and re-taped all that was needed. Now with any tape ends, the ends tend to unravel. Yes you could use zip ties (if you must, use Thomas and Betts with Stainless locks), but they are not ideal. Far better to use lacing cord and tie as used in aerospace. EZ PZ, cheap, works better than zip ties and looks great.
Anyone interested in me documenting this?

I'm going with a Cobb V3 Access Port with Mountune B2 tune.
Quick explanation about turbo boost in case someone out there doesn't know:
Ford takes manifold pressure and plumbs it to the wastegate actuator. Build boost and the actuator opens the wastegate. Now enters the Turbo Boost Solenoid (sorry if I didn't get the name quite right). What it does is opens a hole in the line and leaks pressure when it's actuated. That increases boost.
Got it? Blow into a straw with your finger over the end and pressure will be pushing against your finger. Polk a hole in the side of the straw and less pressure will be pushing on your finger. Now problems that can occur is if the solenoid leaks, you get more boost. If it clogs or the hoses clogs you get less boost. Turbo seals are not rubber objects that make perfect seals, they are a labyrinthine type seal and they just plain leak and coat the intake with goopey goo, same goes for PCV exhalations (one reason for me installing a Mountune breather plate to hopefully slow this evil a little). Anyway some of this crap makes it's way into the solenoid. Solenoid can fail either way: leak or clog. I purchased a genuine OEM @ Ford and will replace it tomorrow (with discount under $21). It's such an important component I think I will waste ~$21 every 30K and replace it. EZ PZ to replace it. Don't forget to make sure the leak tube is clear when replacing (low tech test: give it a nice blow job).
Anyway anyone interested in me documenting Solenoid replacement with all details?

I use OneDrive and can easily set up a folder with pictures and documents.


Signing off now.


Thank You FOCUS ST.org, you gave me great insight about my ST. Because of lurking on your site, I feel I can say confidently that I now have elevated my knowledge of Focus ST's where I now know enough to know how little I know!

Ron P.
 

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I'd be interested to see what you rigged up for doing the walnut blasting without spraying them all over your engine bay. Did you use a shop vac to suck them up as you were blasting? How big of a compressor did you do this with (cfm)? I haven't seen anyone that makes an intake runner adapter like they do for some of the BMW cars, but sounds like you got it figured out.

My car only has 6500 miles, but I know I'll need to do this down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Hi Aaron

I'll work on putting together some pics with details and post a link.

Brief overview:
I used a gravity feed HF Blaster with a modified tip. I used a long HF blow gun tube and some Lowes fittings along with some JB KWIK weld. I'll include precise details.
Blast media was HF Fine Walnut shells, the box is 25lbs, I used about 20.
For the manifold, I used a 90 degree Lowes shop vac 90 degree with brush on one side. Then I cut off the hairs of the brush.
I used a Lowes piece of PVC where the shop vac 90 fits into. I did use a lath to slightly bore it to fit, but a Dremil could do the same thing.
I made a ring of 1/4" Lexan and glued and screwed to the PVC. Pics and details will be included.
The ring needs to have two flats, this is for two reasons, #1 is for cylinder 2 thru 4 it attaches to a rectangular piece of 1/4" Lexan and you use 1 screw to hold to the manifold, if you didn't have the flats it wouldn't fit.
#2 reason is the rectangular piece won't fit cyl 1 so you need to kinda use some duct tape and hold just the PVC and ring.
I didn't use any filter or water catcher. I used a compressor at the local garage, I estimate it at 2 HP, don't know the cfm but the tank was perhaps 40 gallons. It wasn't ideal. I waited about 3 times per valve to allow the compressor to catch up. I have a 3 phase 3 hp compressor with probably a 50 gallon capacity and I estimate I would need to wait only once per valve. I don't know the CFM of my compressor. You could use the smallest of small compressors though. Go garbage pick a tank. Like an old 7.5 gallon propane tank (actual capacity is 10 gallons of volume, they only fill it with 7.5 gallons of propane or butane) like used on a fork lift. Better to have 2 or 3. For long term use try and get aluminium tanks. Go to propane place sometimes they have dented or dinged ones hanging around. The tanks are WOG (Water, Oil, Gas rated). Just let fill up and shoot. You will just have to wait. I had a friend with about 6 of these tanks and he had two regular household refrigerator compressors doing the pumping. Quiet, he put on an intake filter. I know he used that rig for many years.
It took me with lugging stuff in, draining ~ 3 gallons of water out of the tank, 16 oz at a time, blasting, final brush cleaning and clean up and lug stuff out about 4 hours, so net about a half hour for each valve. Cyl 1 and 4 were closed and I only needed to turn motor clockwise with a 21mm openend wrench once to get cyl 2 and 3 closed. I guess the last cylinder I did (#3) took me 10 or 15 minutes per valve of actual blasting with the 3 breaks for compressor to catch up.
I made a slot in the 90 degree elbow where you need the leak and it allows you to see if media is flowing. I blasted 15 or 20 seconds with flow and 5 or 10 seconds without flow. To start and stop flow just connected or disconnected hose from handle of tool. You could add a ball valve.
Stay tuned for details.
I didn't take a video but cyl was extremely clean operation. Only once will you disconnect the media pipe without the venturi sucking because you get a couple of thimbles of media coming out and spilling. Cyl 1 was the messiest because once in a while because you are holding the ring to manifold and if you miss it sprays a bit. Cyl 2 thru 4 takes about 5 seconds with the long wand of the blaster with no media flow to clean up and make compartment clean. Cyl 1 was a different story, it took about 10 to 15 seconds of blasting to clean up! On the floor after everything I guess I had 3 or 4 pans of media.
Final cleaning I used a HF black tube brush with a little CRC Intake Valve cleaner. Only 15 seconds per valve. Then hand wipe best you can. I also sprayed just a little WD 40 in because running the compressor so long and the cooling effect on the venturi of the blaster, things get misted with water. Just a light spray. Even with a long wand you can't blow it out. I figure perhaps it may prevent a little rust.

Cyl 4 was the worst at ~ 30K (remember this is after the dealer induction cleaning), cyl 1 was not quite as bad, but still a lot more than I would have wanted. Cyl 2 and 3 were about the same, they were tolerable gunked up. The throttle body was pretty clean so the service probably helped that the most.
I did a Cobb stage 0 log before and I did notice cyl 4 a little over 2K to a little under 5K was pulling more timing, will report if cleaning the gunked up valve helps.
Ron P.
 

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Thanks for the details Ron, and taking the time to explain everything - that helps a lot. I would encourage you to post this up in the Maintenance forum with some pictures if you have time. I would think others would find the details of this procedure useful as well.
 

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Thanks for the valve cleaning info. I would love to see some pics as well. I'm about to hit 60k, need to clean mine.
 
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