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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone in laymens terms explain to me the the ignition corrections.. I know the basics behind it but trying to determine the difference between positive and negative values as well as what to look out for. I attached a pic of my last gauge readings.
 

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Can someone in laymens terms explain to me the the ignition corrections.. I know the basics behind it but trying to determine the difference between positive and negative values as well as what to look out for. I attached a pic of my last gauge readings.
Blog : Understanding knock and ignition corrections in your Ecoboost powered Ford : Stratified Automotive Controls

Honestly the best bet for you to get the answer ^ They explain it super well.

Edit: If you get an occasional blip and you see the negative value (in this picture the negative value is the -1 ) jump..as long as the value is low like -1 it isn't too big of a deal. Now, if you're at wide open throttle and you see it holding a steady -3 ignition correction in any of the 4 cylinders...this is bad. Let off the gas immediately.

If you have bad gas and punch it you might see all 4 cylinders show like -1.5 like I have a few times. This is "bad" but not like...anything that'll result in your car blowing up lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can someone in laymens terms explain to me the the ignition corrections.. I know the basics behind it but trying to determine the difference between positive and negative values as well as what to look out for. I attached a pic of my last gauge readings.
Blog : Understanding knock and ignition corrections in your Ecoboost powered Ford : Stratified Automotive Controls

Honestly the best bet for you to get the answer ^ They explain it super well.

Edit: If you get an occasional blip and you see the negative value (in this picture the negative value is the -1 ) jump..as long as the value is low like -1 it isn't too big of a deal. Now, if you're at wide open throttle and you see it holding a steady -3 ignition correction in any of the 4 cylinders...this is bad. Let off the gas immediately.

If you have bad gas and punch it you might see all 4 cylinders show like -1.5 like I have a few times. This is "bad" but not like...anything that'll result in your car blowing up lol
OK dope.. I've never see a negative displayed when doing a pull, just occasionally will appear in the minimum value.. I only pump 76 gas now and don't **** with any other gas besides Costco when I'm near a station. The dudes at Mountune said 76 tests the best of any gas they've run. I'm not super worried as I don't drive the car that hard anymore except today I was doing some pulls against a Roush Raptor lol. Gonna get a custom tune from freektune next month so if there is an issue it will get fixed. Thanks for the advice.
 

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i see negative correction blips (-.50, -1.00) pretty often (once or twice on a 20 mile commute) in 1st and 2nd gear. They most often occur when accelerating from a stop into a turn. I pretty consistently get a small blip when accelerating from a stop into a downhill turn. When roads are snow covered, ice covered or wet I may see more negative correction blips or larger than -1.00 blips in 1st and 2nd gear.

From my research and talking to my tuners this is normal for our ecoboost engine. As @brian60 elegently stated, it's sustained negative corrections under WOT that you have to really be concerned with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i see negative correction blips (-.50, -1.00) pretty often (once or twice on a 20 mile commute) in 1st and 2nd gear. They most often occur when accelerating from a stop into a turn. I pretty consistently get a small blip when accelerating from a stop into a downhill turn. When roads are snow covered, ice covered or wet I may see more negative correction blips or larger than -1.00 blips in 1st and 2nd gear.

From my research and talking to my tuners this is normal for our ecoboost engine. As @brian60 elegently stated, it's sustained negative corrections under WOT that you have to really be concerned with.
OK sweet thanks for the reassurement
 

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Can someone in laymens terms explain to me the the ignition corrections.. I know the basics behind it but trying to determine the difference between positive and negative values as well as what to look out for. I attached a pic of my last gauge readings.
also you should drop oil temp and comp outlet temp and monitor the other two cylinders ign correction.
 
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also you should drop oil temp and comp outlet temp and monitor the other two cylinders ign correction.
i agree with angrychair. i'd also recommend dropping charge temp and adding AFR actual so you can monitor your air/fuel ratio. Personally, i feel safer when I am able to get an idea in real time on whether the car is running either too lien or rich.
 
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i agree with angrychair. i'd also recommend dropping charge temp and adding AFR actual so you can monitor your air/fuel ratio. personally, i like being able to get an idea in real time on whether the car is running too llean or rich.
To expand on this further, at WOT you should see your AFR sitting at around 11-11.5. If it is ABOVE 12 at WOT then you're getting lean and this is very dangerous if it gets too bad for your engine. If you see below 11 then you're rich, but rich is better than lean. Running rich fouls plugs sooner and gives you worse efficiency and more carbon build-up back on your hatch coming out of your exhaust (ask me how I know) but it at least won't potentially damage your engine like running lean will. I commonly see mine dip to like 10.7 then hold at around 11.4ish on my Stratified 93 tune.

Edit: This is something you should definitely check ^ go out today and do a 3rd or 4th gear WOT pull and just make sure AFR is sitting where it should be.

Most of us monitor the following 6 gauges:
Ign. Correction Cyl 1
Ign. Correction Cyl 2
Ign. Correction Cyl 3
Ign. Correction Cyl 4
Air Fuel Ratio Actual (AFR)
Boost PSI

This way, you see your 4 cylinders and see if they detect knock and pull timing, and also see if your car cuts boost for some reason and isn't hitting where it should be..or if your car is potentially running dangerously lean. All the important things to ensure your car isn't a time bomb without you knowing.
 

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@brian60 speaks the truth. Thanks for expanding on my post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I normally run all the gages you recommended, I was just running these for fun to see how well my air was being cooled. Sometimes when I cold start I monitor oil temp because it monitors in real time rather than having to wait for the gauge that doesn't start till 120f.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I won't even drive my car till the oil is at least 100f (in the winter)
 

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Pulling a -1.0 or even higher is normal from a stop when initially pushing the throttle. This is usually due to vibrations which the knock sensor picks up as feedback... essentially a false positive. Cylinders 1 & 4 are furthest from the sensors and therefore you will see those minor corrections on those cylinders more often. Do you have an after market RMM? This has been known to cause this issue.

In general, you really should only be monitoring ignition corrections with data logs. These will help you understand what's happening throughout the power band or if you're seeing knock under heavy throttle or at high RPMs. Are you working with a tuner? These really should be questions for your tuner if you have one. Some will adjust out of boost timing to prevent LSPI while others will tell you that neg. corrections at very low RPMs (like pressing the throttle from a stop) are no big deal.

I went through ignition correction hell with my first tuner. I'm lucky I still have a working engine. Since then I've switched to Ryan Martin at PD tuning and my car has been solid. I still deal with negative corrections from time to time, but for the most part it's been pretty good. Many things can have an impact on this as well - fuel quality, weather, part changes, etc.
 

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I won't even drive my car till the oil is at least 100f (in the winter)
Holy moly man, that's crazy long cold start idle time. Probably much more excessive than necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I won't even drive my car till the oil is at least 100f (in the winter)
Holy moly man, that's crazy long cold start idle time. Probably much more excessive than necessary.
it's only like 10-15 mins, not to bad and if you turn the ac in it speeds it up quite a bit too.
 

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I would imagine Dankwise meant to say he does not drive the car hard until the oil is up to temperature. That would be a good practise. Otherwise yeah it is pointless to idle that long.
 
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