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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Standard Ignition 2 Terminal Canister Purge Solenoid CP940 | O'Reilly (oreillyauto.com)

There are videos on youtube of how to swap it out, but it's not bad... maybe 30 minutes.

ETA: you still should do a compression test, though...
ok thanks, I will do a compression test when I get the new spark plugs in, ordered the 1 step colder rutheniums from the sticky thread

Do a compression test as rob said. You may have created another issue separate from the original now.


Have you tried any other gas stations or tanks of fuel since this issue popped up?

Regardless, I recommend adding 1 gallon of e85 to a full tank of 93 from another station to see if it was bad or misadvertised gasoline.
I've tried a few in the city, mostly sunocos, I'd have to search for e85 but I may try that out too
 

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I've tried a few in the city, mostly sunocos, I'd have to search for e85 but I may try that out too
I'm referring to since this problem started. Has it been all on the same tank of gas? If not, has it been all from the same station?
 

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I honestly don't recall 100%.. I think I last filled up at the sonoco on broad street. I'm pretty sure I filled up 93 octane there before and nothing went horribly wrong that time
When you reset your KAM what exactly does the OAR start at? And how long does it take to get back to -1?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
When you reset your KAM what exactly does the OAR start at? And how long does it take to get back to -1?
With this current ECU run its starting at -.75. I went to pick my wife across the city and it did not budge at all... granted it was only 3 miles to and back but still found it a bit odd.

before this reset it was heading towards -.02 before I reset again (to test moving the coils over to see if the misfires follow the coil). I would say there was about ~15 miles of driving on that particular ECU run of the OAR reading -.02.
 

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2018 Ford Focus ST1 with a 2867 gen 2
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The oar won't move much except under certain conditions, but since yours was going towards positive from starting at -.75, there's an issue... Whether it's fuel quality or something else is yet to be determined, though.

Since this is with the 1 step colder plugs back in, it's likely not a plug issue at this point...
 

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With this current ECU run its starting at -.75. I went to pick my wife across the city and it did not budge at all... granted it was only 3 miles to and back but still found it a bit odd.

before this reset it was heading towards -.02 before I reset again (to test moving the coils over to see if the misfires follow the coil). I would say there was about ~15 miles of driving on that particular ECU run of the OAR reading -.02.
Flash to stage 0 and test from there. I'm afraid that your tuner has the OAR starting closer to -1. You need to take it a little easy until to get a compression test and get a handle of this. Or you're going to Crack something expensive.
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Flash to stage 0 and test from there. I'm afraid that your tuner has the OAR starting closer to -1. You need to take it a little easy until to get a compression test and get a handle of this. Or you're going to Crack something expensive.
Brian from JST was nice enough to send me a tune for 91 octane, I'll swap to that tomorrow. I don't know if I mentioned before in the thread by I have a 2867 turbo on with all the supporting mods, had it set up that way for 2 years then the cylinder head cracked.
 

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Brian from JST was nice enough to send me a tune for 91 octane, I'll swap to that tomorrow. I don't know if I mentioned before in the thread by I have a 2867 turbo on with all the supporting mods, had it set up that way for 2 years then the cylinder head cracked.
Interesting... Didn't know you were running a 2867. Were you using the factory ATP elbow when the head cracked?

Several of us are using the @michael_ST /junits elbow for our ATP turbos which flows much better and is less prone to cracking the head.
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Interesting... Didn't know you were running a 2867. Were you using the factory ATP elbow when the head cracked?

Several of us are using the @michael_ST /junits elbow for our ATP turbos which flows much better and is less prone to cracking the head.
Not sure, probably. I had my mechanic put it all together. I don't see anything on the initial invoice about an aftermarket elbow, just the turbo

  • ATP turbocharger upgrade GTX2867R with .64 exhaust
 

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Hey guys, I am going to be swapping my plugs and checking compression today, just want to make 100% sure these are compatible plugs

Ruthenium HX LTR7BHX 95605
I have that as 1 step colder, what most tuned cars should be using with .026" gap.
 

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Hey guys, I am going to be swapping my plugs and checking compression today, just want to make 100% sure these are compatible plugs

Ruthenium HX LTR7BHX 95605
I was running these for a while until I went to a 2 step colder plug. Should work just fine for you. Good luck with the compression test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I was running these for a while until I went to a 2 step colder plug. Should work just fine for you. Good luck with the compression test.
Just got done with the compression, came out to 60/150/150/150... so yea

also smelled coolant out of the exhaust as I was getting the car up to operating temperature. I think cyl1 is the one that cracked and was replaced by the shop but not sure, will have to call them later. I think I'm done with this car though.
 

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Yeah, that cylinder is done for.. sorry man

Where are you? If you truly want to sell it instead of swapping the entire motor, you may want to put the car on for sale board.
 
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