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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all,

So I have had my ST3 a week and some change now and I'm loving it. I thought the sound system would grow on me, but I guess I expected more out of what was offered, like so many of you already know Needless to say, I think it's upgrade time already. I'm going tp start with just the speakers and see where that gets me, but I might just go all in.

Here is my anticipated upgrade list, let me know how it looks.

• Front doors: Kicker 40CSS654, 6-1/2" component speaker system, power range: 2-100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power)
• Rear door: Kicker 40CSS654, 6-1/2" component speaker system, power range: 2-100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power)
• Sub: Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81 power handling: 300 watts RMS/600 watts PEAK
• Amplifier: JL Audio RD900/5 5-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
• Rockford Fosgate DSR1 (Waiting for release date)
• Center Channel: Delete
• Amp Kit: Lightning Audio by Rockford Fosgate 4 Gauge Ga Awg Amplifier Installation Wiring Amp Install Kit

Thanks
 

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This is pretty close to what I did for mine. Definitely a significant improvement over stock. I went with Sony component speakers, the same sub you mention here, JVC amp (output similar to the JL you mention), and the same amp wiring kit. The main difference is that I had an LC7i and sold it. I decided to use the LCQ-1 instead. The LCQ-1 does line level conversion and is smaller than the LC7i. Size was important for me, since I hid my LCQ1, amplifier, and crossovers in the foam under the carpet. The LCQ-1 also has an equalizer built in. I recommend you either get the LCQ-1 or the LC7i with an equalizer (like the optional one you mention). The other upgrades help get the sound there, but the factory equalizer is severely lacking (at least it was in 2013... not sure if that has improved in 2017).
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Great, thanks for the info. The LCQ 1 looks like a definite option :) Like you, I want everything to remain hidden, so smaller size is a plus for me.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@TS13FST, Quick question, Have you had an issue with a hissing running the LCQ 1. From some searching I did I read this seems to be a problem, whereas the Clean Sweep doesn't seem to have a hissing issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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@TS13FST, Quick question, Have you had an issue with a hissing running the LCQ 1. From some searching I did I read this seems to be a problem, whereas the Clean Sweep doesn't seem to have a hissing issue.
I did at first. Ran a better ground wire from the LCQ1 and cleaned up the ground point a little better and the hissing is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did at first. Ran a better ground wire from the LCQ1 and cleaned up the ground point a little better and the hissing is gone.
Sweet thanks !!
 

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Id hold off for some of the options that replace the factory amp and give you a dsp. Rockford and a few others have some good options
this...

I would hold off on the LQ7i and definitely the clean sweep until rockford releases the DSR1 with T-harness (which I'm being told by a supplier should be any day) since this will give you the direct signal output from the head unit and read the digital fade/level signals, you will get even clearer sound than you would with the LQ7i (which is a good piece) and best of all, will be before all of sony's terrible EQ changes and bass roll off. so there will be a lot less work needed to correct the sound. in addition, it will have the 3sixty DSP processing so that you will have amazing control over the sound. other than that, all the stuff you are looking at should yield great results. this also should allow you to completely remove the factory amp so you dont have to worry about load resistors, their added heat, and free up a little more space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
this...

I would hold off on the LQ7i and definitely the clean sweep until rockford releases the DSR1 with T-harness (which I'm being told by a supplier should be any day) since this will give you the direct signal output from the head unit and read the digital fade/level signals, you will get even clearer sound than you would with the LQ7i (which is a good piece) and best of all, will be before all of sony's terrible EQ changes and bass roll off. so there will be a lot less work needed to correct the sound. in addition, it will have the 3sixty DSP processing so that you will have amazing control over the sound. other than that, all the stuff you are looking at should yield great results. this also should allow you to completely remove the factory amp so you dont have to worry about load resistors, their added heat, and free up a little more space.
Great to hear, thank you for the information. Only question is, don't I need to retain the factory amp to keep all of my controls and Nav?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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No, the newer units are supposed to be able to clone the data
Bingo! from what their marketing team and video's from SEMA have been saying is that you program it to read your cars data signals and pull the direct audio signal right out of the radio as pure as you can get it. its reads the data control for all the important stuff like volume, fade, balance... its even supposed to change the "bass" setting in the radio's audio settings over to a sub level. they will also going to be selling a direct plug in harness to replace our amp with so you don't have it wasting space, creating heat and don't have to deal with load resistors and their heat!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Bingo! from what their marketing team and video's from SEMA have been saying is that you program it to read your cars data signals and pull the direct audio signal right out of the radio as pure as you can get it. its reads the data control for all the important stuff like volume, fade, balance... its even supposed to change the "bass" setting in the radio's audio settings over to a sub level. they will also going to be selling a direct plug in harness to replace our amp with so you don't have it wasting space, creating heat and don't have to deal with load resistors and their heat!
Pulling a clean signal from the head unit sounds great. My concern is if I get rid of the amp, are controls lost like steering wheel buttons, voice activated nav, phone and so on? I've read the cars amp is what controls these things, or have I looked up bad info?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
as long as it works as advertised, the OEM radio and controls will work exactly the same as it does now, just it will be using your own amp instead of the Sony.
Man that's a beautiful thing. Guess I'll just replace my speakers for now and try and wait patiently for release. From what I have seen, release could be the end of April :)
 
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So with a DSR1 and new speakers and a sub we can get a decent upgrade over stock sound? I like how the stock can be maxed out and still it does not distort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So with a DSR1 and new speakers and a sub we can get a decent upgrade over stock sound? I like how the stock can be maxed out and still it does not distort.
You will need an amp also. The DSR1 replaces your factory amp. Plus by not using the factory amp, you get rid of the bass roll off when you have the volume up.
 
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You will need an amp also. The DSR1 replaces your factory amp. Plus by not using the factory amp, you get rid of the bass roll off when you have the volume up.
Thank you for the reply, I am new and still reading very post and trying to see how it all works. So for a decent stereo upgrade, we are looking at about $1k. Speakers, Amp, sub, and DSR1.
 
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