Ford Focus ST Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all
Please keep in mind this vehicle is brand new, now with a little over 2k miles. Fully stock.

I went to the dealer about my steering wheel not being centered, having a tremor/tremble at idle (sometimes rough, sometimes light), and my rear rotors being scored pretty heavily with not even 1k miles on the vehicle.
All these concerns were not addressed, I was told they were "normal" conditions. I was told my steering wheel was straight, when it clearly is not, and was told they didn't experience any vehicle trembles, and was also told my rotors were normal wear because I have "performance" pads, and "non performance" rotors.
I will obviously go back for these same problems and try to get them resolved with a supervisor if it has to come to that, but I figured I would come here and ask anyone for advice.

I believe there may be a known problem with my tremble at idle, and I'm pretty sure my rotors wouldn't be scoring as they are brand new.

I've noticed also that my shifter is some times hard to get into the gear I'm shifting into. Not sure how to explain it, but it kind of feels like there is a gate to each gear that needs to be met with a certain amount of pressure to actually get it into that gear. I can shift into 4th gear with one finger with no resistance ever time, but to get into 1st, 2nd and 3rd, most times I have to use majority of my hand and some force.

If someone could shed some light into that, that would be great. Because I have no idea what could cause that, and I'm not even sure if that is supposed to be "normal" to this vehicle.

I'm mainly looking for advice on whether or not these things may be normal, if I may be wrong, if the dealership is wrong... If these things are known issues, what can I tell them to get them addressed? Should I ask about TSBs? Go on a test drive with the technician?

Thank you for you're time and advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Hey there, okay lets tackle 1 thing at a time.

1. You said your steering wheel is not centered. Does this mean your car drives straight and true, but your steering wheel is not centered or if you center your steering wheel your car drifts left or right as if it is not aligned?
2. The tremble at idle...how often does it happen? A little shudder or tremble does happen in these cars. I have a 15' with 33k on it and it still does this so I would consider it a bit more normal depending on how often it is happening. Also what kind of gas are you running?
3. Would it be possible to post a picture of your rotors?

With a little more info we may be able to help. Did you take your ride to the dealer you purchased from? Perhaps take it back to where you bought it from or try a different dealer. These items should all be taken seriously though. As for the shudder though I have learned to live with it. I would describe it as an idle dip, engine shudder, stumble, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
I can help you on the engine tremble part. If its a little burp in the exhaust or if it vibrates a little that's normal for these cars especially since it's direct injection they are very noisy. But if you still feel uncomfortable about it describe it in detail to the best of your ability and I can help out as much as possible.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
All pretty much par for the course, except for the brakes. Need to see pictures, as any wear, just like what is 'centered', are subjective and may be different things to different people.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
Is a tremble the same thing as a vibration? It's normal for four cylinder engines to have some vibration at idle. My car is pretty smooth when the ac is switched off, but has a distinct idle vibe when the ac is working hard on a hot day. Same for every four cylinder I've driven, which is a lot of them.

The force required to engage a gear on a manual transmission will vary. It will be much stiffer on a cold transmission, and will smooth out as the transmission fluid warms up. You will also be blocked while the synchronizers do their job, so it depends on how much they must accelerate or decelerate the transmission input shaft. Shifting from 3-4 is easy work, but a 5-2 downshift if you are trying to engage 2nd while still rolling at 40+ mph will result in a long lag and high effort. You don't say how much experience you have with standard transmissions, so not sure if you are comparing to previous cars or. It.

The rear brake pads can capture small stones, which can mar the rotor. Usually it makes an awful sound too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey there, okay lets tackle 1 thing at a time.

1. You said your steering wheel is not centered. Does this mean your car drives straight and true, but your steering wheel is not centered or if you center your steering wheel your car drifts left or right as if it is not aligned?
2. The tremble at idle...how often does it happen? A little shudder or tremble does happen in these cars. I have a 15' with 33k on it and it still does this so I would consider it a bit more normal depending on how often it is happening. Also what kind of gas are you running?
3. Would it be possible to post a picture of your rotors?

With a little more info we may be able to help. Did you take your ride to the dealer you purchased from? Perhaps take it back to where you bought it from or try a different dealer. These items should all be taken seriously though. As for the shudder though I have learned to live with it. I would describe it as an idle dip, engine shudder, stumble, etc.
---
The vehicle drives straight, the steering wheel is just not centered.
It happens all the time, there is not a time when the vehicle isn't trembling at idle. I run 93. It's hard to explain I guess, it feels like a jump some times, and a vibration most times. Like an RPM dip as someone else mentioned.
I can get a picture tomorrow to post as I am busy ATM.

Thanks for the reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I can help you on the engine tremble part. If its a little burp in the exhaust or if it vibrates a little that's normal for these cars especially since it's direct injection they are very noisy. But if you still feel uncomfortable about it describe it in detail to the best of your ability and I can help out as much as possible.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
---
It feels like a vibration at times like a small RPM dip as someone else mentioned, but it gets rougher randomly, almost as if it's unsure whether to tremble hard or soft. Some times it feels like a misfire when its rough, or like a weird jump, but for the most post it is a pretty tame tremble.
I have read that the vibrations were normal, but to me this doesn't feel normal I guess. At work I drive automatic, new and old, Fords all day and haven't experienced this type of vibration/tremble unless it was a misfire or distributor problem.

Thanks for the reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
All pretty much par for the course, except for the brakes. Need to see pictures, as any wear, just like what is 'centered', are subjective and may be different things to different people.
I understand it is subjective, I will post pictures tomorrow of the brakes. It just worries me because I don't drive with the radio on, and with the A/C usually low speed, so I can hear every sound the vehicle makes. I failed to mention earlier, but I can also hear my brake pads rubbing against my rotors with the windows open if that helps advise the situation.

Thanks for the reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is a tremble the same thing as a vibration? It's normal for four cylinder engines to have some vibration at idle. My car is pretty smooth when the ac is switched off, but has a distinct idle vibe when the ac is working hard on a hot day. Same for every four cylinder I've driven, which is a lot of them.

The force required to engage a gear on a manual transmission will vary. It will be much stiffer on a cold transmission, and will smooth out as the transmission fluid warms up. You will also be blocked while the synchronizers do their job, so it depends on how much they must accelerate or decelerate the transmission input shaft. Shifting from 3-4 is easy work, but a 5-2 downshift if you are trying to engage 2nd while still rolling at 40+ mph will result in a long lag and high effort. You don't say how much experience you have with standard transmissions, so not sure if you are comparing to previous cars or. It.

The rear brake pads can capture small stones, which can mar the rotor. Usually it makes an awful sound too.
---
Tremble as in a person trembling when they are cold, but it consistently goes away and comes back within a matter of seconds. A/C on or off, weather hot or cold, its the same trembling.
This is my first manual car, but I have manual experience from work, friend's vehicles and 3+ years of motorcycles. I'm not trying to compare it to other vehicles, but it just seems odd to me that the shifter kind of gets stuck. I always shift in order and haven't skipped gears. It's just mainly 2nd and 3rd that give me that problem.
I don't drive with music for the most part, and I have experienced a stone in the rotor before, and that hasn't happened to me in this vehicle for sure. It's multiple scores too, all the way across the rotors.

Thanks for the reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
---
It feels like a vibration at times like a small RPM dip as someone else mentioned, but it gets rougher randomly, almost as if it's unsure whether to tremble hard or soft. Some times it feels like a misfire when its rough, or like a weird jump, but for the most post it is a pretty tame tremble.
I have read that the vibrations were normal, but to me this doesn't feel normal I guess. At work I drive automatic, new and old, Fords all day and haven't experienced this type of vibration/tremble unless it was a misfire or distributor problem.

Thanks for the reply.
From what I seem to gather it sounds like it has a cam? That is normal for this car. Every car is different and it happens that the st will sound like a slight cam or a misfire at times. Don't worry man. Mine does it, every st I have seen does it. It's just the way the engine was built and designed. I've seen some do it more than mine and some less but direct injection is new to most people especially in a performance vehicle and the way it runs scares them. It did me at first until I heard others and researched about it. But I assure you it's completely normal and you have nothing to worry about so long as you keep up on maintenance.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
---
The vehicle drives straight, the steering wheel is just not centered.
It happens all the time, there is not a time when the vehicle isn't trembling at idle. I run 93. It's hard to explain I guess, it feels like a jump some times, and a vibration most times. Like an RPM dip as someone else mentioned.
I can get a picture tomorrow to post as I am busy ATM.

Thanks for the reply.
this is weird because I have the exact same issue you are describing. 2017 ST1 with 2k miles on it and I've noticed the shake at idle, its not a consistent shake but it comes and goes almost like the car is revving itself. The steering wheel has always seen a little off center to me when, the car drives straight its but the steering wheel is off. I haven't had the issue of having difficulty of 2nd or 3rd gear but being put into reserve does take some effort almost like it gets stuck mid way and I have to pull it back and try again. This isn't my first manual car, I'm trying not to be hyper sensitive with things but I did just say 20k for a brand new car and these little things are starting to become concerning. Hopefully Ford takes care of them under warranty, dont mind being without the car seeing as how they are giving me a loaner from the dealership
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
I have a new 2017 ST with just over 2K miles and I have also noticed that reverse requires more force when shifting (but only reverse) and my rear rotors (passenger rear more-so than driver rear) both have uneven wear.
I won't worry about the tough shifting until it gets worse, but if you think it's bad enough to cause a problem in the future, then its a good idea that you have taken it to the dealer so there's documentation early on that it had an issue from the get go. Just save the documentation.

I'm with you on the rear rotors: I have "grooves" with rounded, smooth edges which is definitely not from a rock or anything hard rubbing against the rotors. More likely it's a bad rotor - pad combo. I hear a faint rubbing when I'm reversing out of the driveway with the windows down. Did you figure out the issue with the rotors yet?
 

·
Super Moderator
2017 Ford Fusion Sport
Joined
·
8,198 Posts
I have a new 2017 ST with just over 2K miles and I have also noticed that reverse requires more force when shifting (but only reverse) and my rear rotors (passenger rear more-so than driver rear) both have uneven wear.
I won't worry about the tough shifting until it gets worse, but if you think it's bad enough to cause a problem in the future, then its a good idea that you have taken it to the dealer so there's documentation early on that it had an issue from the get go. Just save the documentation.

I'm with you on the rear rotors: I have "grooves" with rounded, smooth edges which is definitely not from a rock or anything hard rubbing against the rotors. More likely it's a bad rotor - pad combo. I hear a faint rubbing when I'm reversing out of the driveway with the windows down. Did you figure out the issue with the rotors yet?
The reverse part of this...is that when on a slight incline or decline? And if you have a hard time getting it into reverse, put it into 2nd first then try again. It resets the position of the syncro and it works for me every time when I park on a hill and can't get into reverse
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
I can only answer your rotor questions. A service advisor that I have (mods cars himself) helped me out when I bought my car CPO. He gave me the low down on the rotors and pads issue on our cars.

The factory pads are ****. Made near some quarry mine as the advisor said (joke). Every new set of rotors that get put on a car using the same pads from before cause the same scoring. I was advised to go to an autozone or napa or whoever else provides aftermarket pads and purchased those because the stock pads would cause scoring. So my advice, try to get the rotors replaced and then replace the pads yourself once you leave the dealer. I guarantee you you won't have issues. I can take picture of my rear rotors in my current state (10,000+ miles), rotors are flawless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I haven’t exp any of the OP’s issues, only have 300 miles on the car though as of today. Mos are Dual OCC’s, DP, and AP V3 Strat tune.

I have exp idle misses and such in previous GDI-T cars I have owned though, modded and in modded.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top