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Discussion Starter #1
I am pulling the engine/trans from my 2017 FoST very soon (cylinder #4 ringland), and I have limited room in my garage. I haven't been able to find a clear answer- can I lower the car (engine pulled) onto the wheels without the cv axles and nut installed into the hub? I need to move the car out into the driveway while I work on the engine in the garage. Sorry if this is answered elsewhere, it wasn't showing up in searches of the site.
 

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That’s a good question and don’t use me as an expert source; however, I think you could.

The axles aren’t structural items. They apply power from the engine, as translated by the transmission, to the wheels.

If I’m correct with the above, I’d think you could roll the car around, assuming the steering is hooked up properly, without the axles being in.

Great question!!
 

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i would think if the rest of the knuckle/suspension is installed it should be fine to roll and park in your driveway. The only issue I can think of is there would be no pressure on the wheel bearings laterally, which the axels/nut would normally do. Again, i dont think that would be an issue as those are a real PITA to press out of the knuckle/hub and with out the engine/trans there isnt that much weight on the front of the car.

But i havent tried it so guess i am not really much help in giving you an answer
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That’s a good question and don’t use me as an expert source; however, I think you could.

The axles aren’t structural items. They apply power from the engine, as translated by the transmission, to the wheels.

If I’m correct with the above, I’d think you could roll the car around, assuming the steering is hooked up properly, without the axles being in.

Great question!!
i would think if the rest of the knuckle/suspension is installed it should be fine to roll and park in your driveway. The only issue I can think of is there would be no pressure on the wheel bearings laterally, which the axels/nut would normally do. Again, i dont think that would be an issue as those are a real PITA to press out of the knuckle/hub and with out the engine/trans there isnt that much weight on the front of the car.

But i havent tried it so guess i am not really much help in giving you an answer
Thanks guys, that's what I was thinking. I was also considering using M22x1.5 bolts in place of the cv axles or put the cvs back in and strap them to the subframe. But I won't go through any of the trouble if it's not really necessary. I was curious if anyone had experience with this particular thing.
 

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That’s a good question and don’t use me as an expert source; however, I think you could....
LOL!! I re-read my above post and just saw I didn't convey my thoughts very well in the first sentence. I meant to convey that although you shouldn't consider my advise as though it's coming from an expert, I think you could move your car w/o the axles installed for the reasons I outlined later in my post!!
 

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I can't comment with direct experience with the ST, but most times the axle end is responsible for preload on the wheel bearing (despite being a unitized bearing it does have an inner and outer race). This is why axle nut torque is so crucial. What will happen is as soon as you roll the car 1 or 2 feet, the bearing will begin to separate.

What you can do is toss the axles back in and spin the axle nuts back on tight, and then use something like a ratchet strap to cradle the axles from flopping around as you push the car around.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can't comment with direct experience with the ST, but most times the axle end is responsible for preload on the wheel bearing (despite being a unitized bearing it does have an inner and outer race). This is why axle nut torque is so crucial. What will happen is as soon as you roll the car 1 or 2 feet, the bearing will begin to separate.

What you can do is toss the axles back in and spin the axle nuts back on tight, and then use something like a ratchet strap to cradle the axles from flopping around as you push the car around.
That was my fear. I guess to be safe, rather than sorry, I'll just put the axles back and tie them up like I originally planned.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update:
Pulled the engine out this weekend. Put the axles back in and tied them to the control arms. Pushed the car about 10 feet back into the driveway. Doesn't seem to have any issues at the moment.
Here are pics of the damage I found though.
20200328_105202.jpg
377794
 

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Update:
Pulled the engine out this weekend. Put the axles back in and tied them to the control arms. Pushed the car about 10 feet back into the driveway. Doesn't seem to have any issues at the moment.
Here are pics of the damage I found though.
View attachment 377793 View attachment 377794
OK so I'm curious - how did this this catastrophic damage happen - under heavy load I assume ? Is the car tuned ? I have just passed 110k on my 2013 and I certainly don't want to invite this into my life! :)
 

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OK so I'm curious - how did this this catastrophic damage happen - under heavy load I assume ? Is the car tuned ? I have just passed 110k on my 2013 and I certainly don't want to invite this into my life! :)
Obviously the OP will hopefully chime in with his account, but here's my take on these matters.

Just seems to happen under varying circumstances. Most people like to contribute it to LSPi, which is a major factor.

I find a great maintenance plan tends to keep these events down, as well as being aware of LSPi.

Personally, I'm just over 100k at this point. Big turbo, aux fuel, all the mods, somewhere near 400whp and she's been holding up great. So theres a lot of variables at play, lol
 

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OK so I'm curious - how did this this catastrophic damage happen - under heavy load I assume ? Is the car tuned ? I have just passed 110k on my 2013 and I certainly don't want to invite this into my life! :)
I posted in the Blown Engines thread, but here is another summary:

Car is about 2.5 years old, with just under 31,000 original miles. Slight misfire noticed at highway speeds. 6th gear driving, about 75mph. No WOT pulls, or 5/6 pulls. Noticed lack of response, and shake in the front of the car. Got off the highway and drove approximately 10 miles on city streets, at about 45 mph with limited red lights and stop signs. At a stop sign car was shuttering, seemed like it wanted to stall. Revved it up to keep it alive. Thought is was the common issue I was having with moisture build up in the intercooler (upgraded 3.5” depo racing intercooler in Houston, Tx....). Revving up seemed to help clear the moisture in the past.
Pulled into HEB parking lot, and the car did not want to idle. No check engine light at this time. Cobb accessport read a P0304. No smoke out the exhaust, cranked and started right away. Same shutter at idle. Codes read P0304 and P0316 after this start up. Limped it about 2.5 miles to home. Compression tests showed 30 psi on cylinder #4.

2017 Focus ST, Borla Touring Cat-Back, Depo Racing 3.5" Intercooler, Steeda Sound Symposer Delete, Focus RS Air Box w/ Green Filter, Boomba Racing Stage 2 PCV Catch Can, NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs, Stratified Flash Tune
 
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