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So the Mountune brace is built to straddle the stock strut brace; or rather I should say the stock one straddles the Mountune. In looking at the brace and comparing it to something like the TB brace, I really don't see a reason or need why Mountune chose to retain the stock strut brace on there. The Mountune brace has a hole in the brackets that will make a nice template for drilling the tower like the TB bar does, but then the stock brace will need to be cut up to allow access to the hole if it's reinstalled. I contacted Mountune and the response was "it's designed to be installed with the stock brace". I'm not trying to outsmart anyone, but it just doesn't seem to be any different to me. Once cut for access for camber adjustments, the integrity of that stock, stamped brace is out the window anyways. Just curious if you guys had any thoughts or know anyone that left the stock brace out with a Mountune brace.
 

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Im wondering the same thing...so I know I am not much help.
I have the TB tower brace, and used it to drill the 3" holes, but I removed the TB brace because my test drives with no cowling at all introduced way too much engine noise into the cabin. So I was concerned with cutting the lower cowling and not being able to go back. So I am not thinking of the mountune unit.
The main issue that I see is that the stock tower brace has 2 mounts for 10mm screws to secure the cowling(s) in place. If you drill the stock tower brace, you would likely need to make new holes to mount the cowling to the stock tower brace in a new location. The stock screw location is almost exactly where you would want to drill, in fact, if you went 3", then it is in fact going to disappear. There does not seem to be a good compromise. I would very much like to hear what cars that did the TB brace sound like. I read that you lose the ability to draw in outside air, since the engine bay is no longer sealed off due to the cutting of the lower of the two cowls. (not sure if that makes sense).
Even with the 3" holes in the towers, there are some allen head screws that cannot be accessed for camber adjustments -at least on my car.
Again, no perfect solution that is easy.
I think I prefer the Mountune tower brace solution more...even if it means opening up an access hole in the stock brace that mounts on top of it. You get to keep the ability to pull in fresh air, maintaining the stock sealing of the cowls, and you would still be able to access the camber adjustments after modification of the stock brace.
 

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...I removed the TB brace because my test drives with no cowling at all introduced way too much engine noise into the cabin. So I was concerned with cutting the lower cowling and not being able to go back...I would very much like to hear what cars that did the TB brace sound like. I read that you lose the ability to draw in outside air, since the engine bay is no longer sealed off due to the cutting of the lower of the two cowls. (not sure if that makes sense)...I think I prefer the Mountune tower brace solution more...even if it means opening up an access hole in the stock brace that mounts on top of it. You get to keep the ability to pull in fresh air, maintaining the stock sealing of the cowls, and you would still be able to access the camber adjustments after modification of the stock brace.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=R4lpUvG8BxM
Another member made this video of altering the lower cowl to work with the TB strut bar, don't know of this is something you've looked into or not as you mentioned cutting the lower cowling. Perhaps a modding the lower cowl would help as it would seal more of the engine compartment off?
 

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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=R4lpUvG8BxM
Another member made this video of altering the lower cowl to work with the TB strut bar, don't know of this is something you've looked into or not as you mentioned cutting the lower cowling. Perhaps a modding the lower cowl would help as it would seal more of the engine compartment off?
I saw this before. He never mentions if the trimming results in more noise. He did say that it was fully functional though.
Guess I will have to look into it some more...

CrashMW
 

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It was interior noise coming directly from the engine bay. Hard to not notice. I mean, I could even hear the stock BPV going pssshh between shifts! I didn't even know the stock unit did that. I was hearing a lot of things I had never heard before.
Once the stock unit went back on, everything went back to normal...meaning relatively quite, and noises were from the outside (such as my exhaust).
Like I said, I will look into it again this week sometime...
 

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Even with the 3" holes in the towers, there are some allen head screws that cannot be accessed for camber adjustments -at least on my car.
Did you move the screws to the middle positions on the camber plates? I moved both screws to the middle on mine prior to installation and see having no trouble getting to any of the screws.
 
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