[used2befast]

So I just had the Mountune RS-R pads, stainless steel lines and Stop-Tech Slotted rotors installed. The car stops on a dime, however I have what I would call a soft squeal from the brakes. If I am going slow enough and just cruising or if I am slowing down to stop I get a squeal, even if I am not hitting the brakes. Is this normal with this setup, or do I have something dragging? I expected a little extra noise with performance brakes but this seems abnormal to me. Anyone have any inputs/insights?

 

[Peregriner]

So I just had the Mountune RS-R pads, stainless steel lines and Stop-Tech Slotted rotors installed. The car stops on a dime, however I have what I would call a soft squeal from the brakes. If I am going slow enough and just cruising or if I am slowing down to stop I get a squeal, even if I am not hitting the brakes. Is this normal with this setup, or do I have something dragging? I expected a little extra noise with performance brakes but this seems abnormal to me. Anyone have any inputs/insights?

I guess the first question is what was your bedding process like?

 

[used2befast]

Well, I guess that is a trick question in a way. The install was not done by me. But when the install was complete I saw them drive my car out, I asked what they were doing I was told they were taking it to do the bedding procedures that were outlined in the brake pad box that came from Mountune. So while I cannot say 100% for sure it was done properly, since they referenced it the way they did I have to assume at this point it was done properly. However, they did not give me the bedding procedure form either so I did not try to go through the process myself when I got the car. Before you say it.....I know I should have asked for the form and went through it myself, but again since they referenced it I just went with it.

Moving on to what I know now. After I posted the original post I decided to put it up and take a look. So I put all 4 wheels off the ground and spun the tires. to see what happened. The rears had no issues. I could spend them easily and they had a nice what I would call "normal" brake/rotating wheel sound. The right front sounded essentially the same and moved rather easily. However, the left front stopped twice as fast as the right front and as it rotated it sounded different, almost like the rotor is slightly warped. Then I looked at the pads and noticed there is a divot taken out of the pad where it is closest to the rotor. It does not have a completely flat appearance to it like the right front. So my assumption is that the left front rotor came slightly warped or something because again the rest of the rotors and brakes all looked and sounded much smoother compared to the left front.

 

[Peregriner]

Well, I guess that is a trick question in a way. The install was not done by me. But when the install was complete I saw them drive my car out, I asked what they were doing I was told they were taking it to do the bedding procedures that were outlined in the brake pad box that came from Mountune. So while I cannot say 100% for sure it was done properly, since they referenced it the way they did I have to assume at this point it was done properly. However, they did not give me the bedding procedure form either so I did not try to go through the process myself when I got the car. Before you say it.....I know I should have asked for the form and went through it myself, but again since they referenced it I just went with it.

Moving on to what I know now. After I posted the original post I decided to put it up and take a look. So I put all 4 wheels off the ground and spun the tires. to see what happened. The rears had no issues. I could spend them easily and they had a nice what I would call "normal" brake/rotating wheel sound. The right front sounded essentially the same and moved rather easily. However, the left front stopped twice as fast as the right front and as it rotated it sounded different, almost like the rotor is slightly warped. Then I looked at the pads and noticed there is a divot taken out of the pad where it is closest to the rotor. It does not have a completely flat appearance to it like the right front. So my assumption is that the left front rotor came slightly warped or something because again the rest of the rotors and brakes all looked and sounded much smoother compared to the left front.

Well, I'd say you're doing a good job at diagnosing here and I would bet they bedded properly. If you take the wheel off and take a flat edge to the rotor you should be able to see for sure if it is warped at all. Having said that, and I could be wrong, I don't necessarily think squealing is a symptom of a warped rotor .... though that could explain the squeal when you aren't on the brakes. It could also have been something like a rock caught in the rotor. You said there is a nick in the pad, is there a grove in the rotor that matches?

 

[used2befast]

Thinking about it you are probably right about it probably not being a warped rotor. It was just my first thought because of the drag and uneven wear on the pad. But it could something like the system needs to be rebled because the caliper is not fully going back in. I imagine there are several I am missing. There is no obvious mark in the rotor that matches the odd wear on the pad. Although I am not 100% sure I really think it is the left side dragging, the reason why alludes me though. When you spin the front right side it spins 1 1/2-2 1/2 rotations before it stops, when I do the same thing on the left side the wheel spins maybe 3/4-1 rotation and stops. So to me that is a huge sign of something dragging without the brakes being applied.

 

[used2befast]

So I took the car back and they claim everything is installed correctly. No bleed issues, etc. They said my brakes must just be one of those sets that have some low speed noise inherent to them. I didn't know what else to say so I took the car and of course the noise is still there. Then when I got back to the house I noticed that the wear on the left side rotor is different than the rest. First, I need to ask what I can only imagine is a stupid question. On each rotor there is a small ring/wear pattern being formed closest to the hub, I am assuming this is normal with this type of brake setup but honestly I am not 100% sure. If it is normal than okay if not what would cause it? Second, even if the wear/ring pattern is normal the left front wear pattern form the pad is 1 1/2 times the size of the rest. Which to me means that too much of that pad is barely resting on the rotor as it spins. I would imagine this is causing abnormal wear and would be the cause of my noise. Any inputs would be appreciated?

 

[used2befast]

So I have never done this before we will see if it works... .....this is the right side rotor....

And this is the left side rotor.

See the difference in the band running closest to the hub. Is this a concern or am I just paranoid because of the low squeal I am getting?

 

[used2befast]

After some major questioning and arguing I finally got the shop to admit that they did not do the bed in procedures that HAWK/Mountune say to do. They just drove it to check for any issues and brought it back.... So I am pretty ticked off right now. The question is now that I have had to put about 110 miles on the car can I still do the bed in procedures and have any success or is it too late for the bed in procedures to be affective?

 

[DanM]

After some major questioning and arguing I finally got the shop to admit that they did not do the bed in procedures that HAWK/Mountune say to do. They just drove it to check for any issues and brought it back.... So I am pretty ticked off right now. The question is now that I have had to put about 110 miles on the car can I still do the bed in procedures and have any success or is it too late for the bed in procedures to be affective?

You should be fine doing the bed in procedure at this point. Hopefully they didnt attempt to put that desqueal liquid on your brake pads.

 

[used2befast]

So I did the bed in procedures, twice in fact just to be safe.....no change. As soon as the brakes get warm and I get to low speeds the squealing starts. Whether I hit the brakes or not most of the time and every time I barely hit the brakes (coming to a normal stop) and then as soon as I pull my foot off the brake and the car starts to roll I get it again. I am pretty pissed off right now. I spent good money on this brake setup and now I went from a car I loved to drive to a car I am embarrassed to drive around in town. And of course everyone I talk to says it is not them, not the fault of the rotors, pads, lines or install of the parts, and since all of the reviews seem to say that these brakes are quiet I do not know what to do now. I do not exactly have money to just throw around to replace everything again.

 

[Peregriner]

So I have never done this before we will see if it works... View attachment 242066 .....this is the right side rotor....

View attachment 242074 And this is the left side rotor.

See the difference in the band running closest to the hub. Is this a concern or am I just paranoid because of the low squeal I am getting?

I think there is more to it than just noise. Looking at the pictures and your thoughts on the wheel rotation getting caught up, there certainly could be something up with your caliper. My hawk pads squeal like crazy all the time (I didn't bed properly at all), but I have no unusual wear or pulling. Is there anything else that happens other than a tug to the left and noise? If your piston and therefore your pad is not retracting all the way, that would certainly explain all the symptoms.

 

[FittyFrank]

To chime in, I've had RS-R pads installed at my dealer on new stock rotors since the spring. In the last couple weeks they started squealing a lot, and it seems to just be under light to medium braking. The front brakes also throw off way more dust than OEM pads when it used to be the opposite. It's a bit confusing) concerning since I barely drive my car hard (2 mile commute through a park to work each day).

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[FittyFrank]

To chime in, I've had RS-R pads installed at my dealer on new stock rotors since the spring. In the last couple weeks they started squealing a lot, and it seems to just be under light to medium braking. The front brakes also throw off way more dust than OEM pads when it used to be the opposite. It's a bit confusing) concerning since I barely drive my car hard (2 mile commute through a park to work each day).

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Update, it was at the dealership for service and I asked them look at the brakes. They said they all looked good and the tech "cleaned them up" best he could. But that even so, they are aftermarket brakes so there's nothing the dealership could have done. That's just some of the dumbest bs I've ever heard so I didn't bother to make a comment to such ignorance. At least my brake pads stopped throwing off stupid amounts of dust. Whatever it was, it only did that for a few weeks.

Do you notice more pad wear with the slotted rotors? I was going to buy them, but my dealership once again is full of incompetent tards.

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[mitch808]

The RS-R pad is somewhere between the Hawk 5.0 and HP +pad. Hard to tell, but their temp chart, plots them right in that range. I don't believe mountune has a custom formula from Hawk at all, it's just a rebranded pad of one of those two compounds. Most likely the HP +, due to it's max stated 800 deg temp.

I can tell you the Hawk HP+ pad is amazing. It's the minimum performance pad to use for any aggresive or track driving. Don't bother with HPS, those are junk IMO. The 5.0 has no history nor pedigree, other than being their newest pad compound.

The HP+ can dust a lot, but depends on your application. Slotted rotors only make it worse, as it's constantly shaving off a bit of the pad face each time you apply the brakes. This is a good thing! I've had them squeal on a different application, but generous application on the pad backing plate of a thick paste (anti-squeal stuff), and ensuring the caliper pins are lubed and free moving.

Then comes the proper bedding in process. You must perform 8-10, 60-10MPH high speed panic stops. Back to back, the only break your brakes see is the time it took you to accelerate from 10MPH to 60MPH, then apply the brakes again, HARD. After performing 8-10 of these panic stops, you drive around for at least 5+ min like normal, NEVER coming to a complete stop. Allowing your brake system to cool down gradually. Your pads are now bedded. You can do this anytime from 0miles, or 100 mile or 1000miles later. What ever happens after that, will be forever how your brakes will perform going forward, until you change rotors.

The pictures shown above, tell me these were not bed in hard enough. All rotor cross hatched marks would have been gone if done properly. I see pad material starting to be transferred, but not nearly enough.

 

[Blue 'n BooSTed]

I've had the Mountune RS-R pads on my ST for well over a year and they've always squealed, I hate it. I feel like the stock pads stopped better too, I just hated all the brake dust they created. I'll be going back to the stock pads when the RS-R pads are worn out... I'd rather deal with the brake dust.

 

[LMStone510]

I've had the Mountune RS-R pads on my ST for well over a year and they've always squealed, I hate it. I feel like the stock pads stopped better too, I just hated all the brake dust they created. I'll be going back to the stock pads when the RS-R pads are worn out... I'd rather deal with the brake dust.

Since you have a pre-March 2014 model (I have a 2013) with the smaller front rotors, you might want to consider the Carbotech Bobcat 1521 compound for a daily driver. It's what I did. The modulation is fantastic; less initial bite than the stock pads -- and near zero dust. No squeal.

I replaced the rotors with OEM rotors BTW.

http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp

The vendor Oakos here on the forums sells them.

Hope that helps,
Mark

 

[Blue 'n BooSTed]

Since you have a pre-March 2014 model (I have a 2013) with the smaller front rotors, you might want to consider the Carbotech Bobcat 1521 compound for a daily driver. It's what I did. The modulation is fantastic; less initial bite than the stock pads -- and near zero dust. No squeal.

I replaced the rotors with OEM rotors BTW.

http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp

The vendor Oakos here on the forums sells them.

Hope that helps,
Mark

I appreciate the suggestion but I think I'm just going to go back to the OEM pads, call me crazy but I actually liked the aggressive bite they had. I had stock wheels back when I had the OEM pads, now I have black wheels so the dust wouldn't be as noticeable anyway.

 

[mitch808]

I appreciate the suggestion but I think I'm just going to go back to the OEM pads, call me crazy but I actually liked the aggressive bite they had. I had stock wheels back when I had the OEM pads, now I have black wheels so the dust wouldn't be as noticeable anyway.

You're not crazy. Having strong initial bite is a good thing on a street car. That is something you give up, as an undesireable trait with performance pads.

I was just at a track event yesterday, 2.1 mile track with over 100' of elevation changes, and my Ferodo 2500 pads didn't get up to temp till the end of lap 2. I could put my face to the windshield at that point with my braking power. Where as the factory pads probably would have given up into crumbs at that point. On a street car, I'd rather be able to do that emergency stop NOW, and not have to worry about if the pads are up to temp or not.
*Which reminds me, I'm gonna swap to a different pad for the street, I don't like the 2500's, but they are awesome on the track.

 

[RR13ST3]

Many performance pads squeak - just nature of the game.

IF you are not going to track the car.. stock-like pads will probably serve you better. Otherwise, live with the noise.

Not as many mods to put in sig.. but such is life.

 

[Blue 'n BooSTed]

You're not crazy. Having strong initial bite is a good thing on a street car. That is something you give up, as an undesireable trait with performance pads.

I was just at a track event yesterday, 2.1 mile track with over 100' of elevation changes, and my Ferodo 2500 pads didn't get up to temp till the end of lap 2. I could put my face to the windshield at that point with my braking power. Where as the factory pads probably would have given up into crumbs at that point. On a street car, I'd rather be able to do that emergency stop NOW, and not have to worry about if the pads are up to temp or not.
*Which reminds me, I'm gonna swap to a different pad for the street, I don't like the 2500's, but they are awesome on the track.

Many performance pads squeak - just nature of the game.

IF you are not going to track the car.. stock-like pads will probably serve you better. Otherwise, live with the noise.

Not as many mods to put in sig.. but such is life.

Well look at that I learned something today lol, thanks guys. Anyway I don't want to hijack this thread, back to you OP...