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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I ordered a Mountune Rear Motor Mount upgrade and installed the product this afternoon. The install was very straight forward, and the hardest part was some of the maneuvering to get everything to line up properly

My main concern is the direction of which the mount is installed. The installation video can be found here.

https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-Rear-Motor-Mount-Focus-ST-and-RS-p/2363-rr-aa.htm


The video explicitly states that the mount should be attached to the bracket first and then installed the the Mountune logo facing down towards the ground. When I attempted to bolt the mount up in this fashion the holes for the bracket would not line up correctly. I was finding it difficult to bolt things back up, and the engine required me to torque it one direction far too much for the bracket to fit.

Ultimately I flipped the mount with the logo facing up and everything lined up perfectly with no problems at all. The Mountune installation video was performed on a MKII FoST and although the installations are similar, they have big differences. I'm not sure if something changed from the MKII to the MKIII, but the mount DID NOT fit with the logo facing down without serious tweaking.

Am I crazy... or is this thing okay the way it is? Any input is much appreciated.

Thank you all in advance!

--Bradley--
 

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Logo up is incorrect. I did this as well, but rest assured, it will fit. I had to wiggle the engine a bit to run the bolt though.

EDIT: Make sure you don't tighten anything until every bolt has a home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Logo up is incorrect. I did this as well, but rest assured, it will fit. I had to wiggle the engine a bit to run the bolt though.

EDIT: Make sure you don't tighten anything until every bolt has a home.

Peregriner,

Thanks for sharing and also for the confidence boost! I went back out to the garage and unbolted, flipped, and re-bolted up the RMM. This time around I just left the mount pushed into the recess and left it alone until the bracket bolts were in place. Then I threaded and tightened both bolts on the RMM itself. This time around I didn't need to move the engine as much, and the final bolt threaded right through.

Do you know of any added benefits with having the mount one way or the other. The only difference I notice is some of hardware is easier with the logo facing down.

Thanks again for the input,

--Bradley--
 

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Peregriner,

Thanks for sharing and also for the confidence boost! I went back out to the garage and unbolted, flipped, and re-bolted up the RMM. This time around I just left the mount pushed into the recess and left it alone until the bracket bolts were in place. Then I threaded and tightened both bolts on the RMM itself. This time around I didn't need to move the engine as much, and the final bolt threaded right through.

Do you know of any added benefits with having the mount one way or the other. The only difference I notice is some of hardware is easier with the logo facing down.

Thanks again for the input,

--Bradley--
I will say NVH was significantly reduced being oriented properly, so I guess take that for what it is...
 

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I installed my Mountune RMM a couple of months ago. I didn't have any issues with fitment, just had to move the engine a tad. Despite what some may say, after a little over 500 miles, the NVH did soften a bit. I didn't notice it nearly as much as the Mrs. did. She said "Wow, your car doesn't rumble as much as last time?"
 

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Just went for a drive and noticed NVH was definitely reduced. It was the first thing I noticed.

Thanks again
That is why we are here! NVH really isn't bad with this mount, but if it gets to you, you could pair it with a traction bar/stress bar like this: Lower Front Stress Bar (There are others as well). Adds some cornering feel, and really smooths out any NVH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I installed my Mountune RMM a couple of months ago. I didn't have any issues with fitment, just had to move the engine a tad. Despite what some may say, after a little over 500 miles, the NVH did soften a bit. I didn't notice it nearly as much as the Mrs. did. She said "Wow, your car doesn't rumble as much as last time?"
Just in a couple of days I have noticed a difference in the vibrations. Hopefully they get better still!
 

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Just in a couple of days I have noticed a difference in the vibrations. Hopefully they get better still!
Yeah, I hardly notice it anymore. The only time I do is when the AC is on ... which is hardly ever, I'm a windows down kinda guy... But it appears you live on the surface of the sun so ...
 

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Gonna get a mountune rmm, stock one is really worn out and massive tq steer that I never exp before! hardly noticed any tq steer before actually. But for mountune rmm install, torque spec is it the same as in the video, 80nm and 40nm? (actually is it a focus st in the video? my 2014 ST got bracket to remove too, different than in the video)

EDIT: just ordered it, and coupon "winning" still works, 10% off so 143 bucks not bad!
 

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I just put one on Thursday. NVH is there only when taking off in first, my idle is at 950 right now. It has gotten better since putting it on and it has only been like 150 miles. I don't remember there being a logo on the top like that though, I do remember one on the side that I made so the M was facing the correct way when looking at it from the side. Now I am wondering because I also thought it looked the same either way and the bolt holes in the center of the sides. Mounted easily though once I got that stupid exhaust bracket out and back in.
 

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I just put one on Thursday. NVH is there only when taking off in first, my idle is at 950 right now. It has gotten better since putting it on and it has only been like 150 miles. I don't remember there being a logo on the top like that though, I do remember one on the side that I made so the M was facing the correct way when looking at it from the side. Now I am wondering because I also thought it looked the same either way and the bolt holes in the center of the sides. Mounted easily though once I got that stupid exhaust bracket out and back in.
What torque specs did you tighten the bolts.

I read after few hundred miles it will settle in and NVH will be less.
 

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What torque specs did you tighten the bolts.

I read after few hundred miles it will settle in and NVH will be less.
I did the 75 on the bolt between the mount and the trans bracket and 70 on the Mount bolt to the crossmember. I did not use a torque wrench on the trans mount bolts since they did not need much umph to break lose so I just cranked em down, but the call for 40 from what I read.
 

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So i installed this nightmare today thinking it would be a 45 min job tops.....hahahahaha x 10000....after realizing i couldnt get away with sneaking around having to make a bloody sacrafice of scraped knuckles and cursing to Krom the god of steel & iron i set the more realistic goal of getting it done before the sun went down. First of all, the video is worthless from mountune if you have a 15+ ST so just go ahead and try and find somewhere else that shows what all needs to be taken off not to mention the rmm in the video is different and the main rmm to bracket bolt they give you needs to be installed in reversed direction from what the video shows or you will not get the side bracket bolt back in which sits perpendicular to it since the mountune bolt sticks out too far when installed as shown, especially if you pre-tightened it prior to installation as they advise. I would not recommend tightening anything past hand tight until everything is mounted and in place. Also the packet of "grease" is for the polyurethane bushing to stop squeeks, i initially thought it was some type of ky-jelly grease for the bolt that comes with the rmm and smeared it all over and then realized it proly wasnt for that since it was pretty sticky so i called and found out it wasnt anal lube after all. The real pain in the arse is the brackets and the lack of space/angle to apply force and get a good range of motion, the one pesky bolt requires very small 1/8th increment turns because thats all the room there is.its a slow drawn out process, i even initially tried to see if i could just squeeze the rmm out without removing the bracket by swinging the engine forward and for a brief moment i thought it would work before my hopes and dreams were crushed by the god of DIY mechanics as he laughed at my attempt to thwart the ritual protocols. I torqued the Mountune bolt to 75 ft/lb and the center hole bolt to 70 ft/lbs, everything else got a good yank but im wondering if i shouldve used some blue loctite on the two main rmm bolts. Anyway, definitely noticed an immediate vibration upon starting up and at idle and when rolling out in 1st and 2nd gear. I havent used the a/c yet and probably wont until next Spring so the rmm should be broken in good by then. Next week all the rest of my parts get installed including the tune so ill have a better idea of how it feels under much more torque.
 

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So i installed this nightmare today thinking it would be a 45 min job tops.....hahahahaha x 10000....after realizing i couldnt get away with sneaking around having to make a bloody sacrafice of scraped knuckles and cursing to Krom the god of steel & iron i set the more realistic goal of getting it done before the sun went down. First of all, the video is worthless from mountune if you have a 15+ ST so just go ahead and try and find somewhere else that shows what all needs to be taken off not to mention the rmm in the video is different and the main rmm to bracket bolt they give you needs to be installed in reversed direction from what the video shows or you will not get the side bracket bolt back in which sits perpendicular to it since the mountune bolt sticks out too far when installed as shown, especially if you pre-tightened it prior to installation as they advise. I would not recommend tightening anything past hand tight until everything is mounted and in place. Also the packet of "grease" is for the polyurethane bushing to stop squeeks, i initially thought it was some type of ky-jelly grease for the bolt that comes with the rmm and smeared it all over and then realized it proly wasnt for that since it was pretty sticky so i called and found out it wasnt anal lube after all. The real pain in the arse is the brackets and the lack of space/angle to apply force and get a good range of motion, the one pesky bolt requires very small 1/8th increment turns because thats all the room there is.its a slow drawn out process, i even initially tried to see if i could just squeeze the rmm out without removing the bracket by swinging the engine forward and for a brief moment i thought it would work before my hopes and dreams were crushed by the god of DIY mechanics as he laughed at my attempt to thwart the ritual protocols. I torqued the Mountune bolt to 75 ft/lb and the center hole bolt to 70 ft/lbs, everything else got a good yank but im wondering if i shouldve used some blue loctite on the two main rmm bolts. Anyway, definitely noticed an immediate vibration upon starting up and at idle and when rolling out in 1st and 2nd gear. I havent used the a/c yet and probably wont until next Spring so the rmm should be broken in good by then. Next week all the rest of my parts get installed including the tune so ill have a better idea of how it feels under much more torque.
Sounds about like my install. Except I did not assemble it outside the car so that bolt did not bother me. I did the reverse of how I took it out and since I did that bolt first thinking like you it would slide out nice and quick that is the way I put it back together. Hand tightened all the bracket bolts then did the mount bolts then tightened the bracket then the mount ones last. But yeah no room for that one nut and bolt. It has settled down vibration wise now that I have a few hundred miles on it though. Still get a good one on takeoff first thing in the morning but I hope that will lessen a little. Seeing as it is about 30-40 degrees in the morning it is hard to say if the cold is not helping the stiffness. That and since I do not know if I put it on upside down or not since I do not recall what way the logo was facing that may be off a bit too. Oh well. When I change to my winters I will see if I can see the logo. I really would have liked a piece of paper that said the torque specs and maybe a this side up picture. :)
 

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Exactly, i kept rewinding the video to make sure the correct side was facing down by the design of the arm and then verified with the engraved M facing down and the side mountune sticker being able to be read normally when installed which made sense, i dont know why they dont put a simple sticker or engraving that says "up" or "top" like the stock one. Those bolts that mount the bracket to the case had to be tightened close to or over100 ft/lbs from the factory because it took either a breaker bar or using two wrenches together for leverage to get them loose initially. I cant see them being only 25 or 60 ft/lbs as most write ups show....
 

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So i installed this nightmare today thinking it would be a 45 min job tops.....hahahahaha x 10000....after realizing i couldnt get away with sneaking around having to make a bloody sacrafice of scraped knuckles and cursing to Krom the god of steel & iron i set the more realistic goal of getting it done before the sun went down. First of all, the video is worthless from mountune if you have a 15+ ST so just go ahead and try and find somewhere else that shows what all needs to be taken off not to mention the rmm in the video is different and the main rmm to bracket bolt they give you needs to be installed in reversed direction from what the video shows or you will not get the side bracket bolt back in which sits perpendicular to it since the mountune bolt sticks out too far when installed as shown, especially if you pre-tightened it prior to installation as they advise. I would not recommend tightening anything past hand tight until everything is mounted and in place. Also the packet of "grease" is for the polyurethane bushing to stop squeeks, i initially thought it was some type of ky-jelly grease for the bolt that comes with the rmm and smeared it all over and then realized it proly wasnt for that since it was pretty sticky so i called and found out it wasnt anal lube after all. The real pain in the arse is the brackets and the lack of space/angle to apply force and get a good range of motion, the one pesky bolt requires very small 1/8th increment turns because thats all the room there is.its a slow drawn out process, i even initially tried to see if i could just squeeze the rmm out without removing the bracket by swinging the engine forward and for a brief moment i thought it would work before my hopes and dreams were crushed by the god of DIY mechanics as he laughed at my attempt to thwart the ritual protocols. I torqued the Mountune bolt to 75 ft/lb and the center hole bolt to 70 ft/lbs, everything else got a good yank but im wondering if i shouldve used some blue loctite on the two main rmm bolts. Anyway, definitely noticed an immediate vibration upon starting up and at idle and when rolling out in 1st and 2nd gear. I havent used the a/c yet and probably wont until next Spring so the rmm should be broken in good by then. Next week all the rest of my parts get installed including the tune so ill have a better idea of how it feels under much more torque.
Sounds about like my install. Except I did not assemble it outside the car so that bolt did not bother me. I did the reverse of how I took it out and since I did that bolt first thinking like you it would slide out nice and quick that is the way I put it back together. Hand tightened all the bracket bolts then did the mount bolts then tightened the bracket then the mount ones last. But yeah no room for that one nut and bolt. It has settled down vibration wise now that I have a few hundred miles on it though. Still get a good one on takeoff first thing in the morning but I hope that will lessen a little. Seeing as it is about 30-40 degrees in the morning it is hard to say if the cold is not helping the stiffness. That and since I do not know if I put it on upside down or not since I do not recall what way the logo was facing that may be off a bit too. Oh well. When I change to my winters I will see if I can see the logo. I really would have liked a piece of paper that said the torque specs and maybe a this side up picture. :)

That one nut and bolt are you talking about the ones supplied by mountune? so no room for it and just disregard it and use stock ones?

Video says 60 and 30 ft/lb for the bolts, too little huh? do 75 to 70 and 40 for the bracket bolts? Weird that mountune video is wrong, I guess different year need diff tq? Isn't torque specs important? one video I saw they never did it, one comment asked and they just said they tightened it down really good. heh that's bad!

Sounds like it's not an easy install, I did took off and put back the stock rmm, awhile ago during idle car had some vibration and found out it was the bolt between rmm and dog bone that got loose. Hope this mountune won't give me too much trouble!

So where do you use the packet of grease? inside the bushing and between rmm and car (cross member?) Video never said anything about the grease, saw few other vids and I don't recall anything about grease, I guess it's not that important if you don't apply it?

also I got a 2014 so it's a little bit easier for me? Can't wait to install it, I think the stock rmm is in bad shape, when I floor it the tq steer is really really bad, never experienced that before lol
 

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Exactly, i kept rewinding the video to make sure the correct side was facing down by the design of the arm and then verified with the engraved M facing down and the side mountune sticker being able to be read normally when installed which made sense, i dont know why they dont put a simple sticker or engraving that says "up" or "top" like the stock one. Those bolts that mount the bracket to the case had to be tightened close to or over100 ft/lbs from the factory because it took either a breaker bar or using two wrenches together for leverage to get them loose initially. I cant see them being only 25 or 60 ft/lbs as most write ups show....
My trans mount bolts just came off with a 3/8 ratchet. The main bolts with the same tool. I did not need the breaker bar to loosen any of them. The mount ones were tight but still broke lose with some tugging. I also recall the side M was so I could read it when looking at the side from underneath. So I must be good. that is the only one I looked at and thought it should face that way. Lol! But yeah would a stamped arrow or the word Up be that hard to put on.
 
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