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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I have finally gotten around to getting a leakdown test done, was stone cold when I did the test.
So as follows, here are the compression and leakdown results.


Compression
1-178
2-192
3-194
4-194

Leakdown
1-10%
2-11%
3-11%
4-11%

I’m seriously confused as to why it’s giving me this much trouble. Zero valve noise, all crankcase. I’m lost at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I also found P0340/P0344 Cam sensor codes again. I don’t think it could be cam/crank physical timing, but I’m not sure.
 

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I also found P0340/P0344 Cam sensor codes again. I don’t think it could be cam/crank physical timing, but I’m not sure.
Thats interesting... do these codes come back right away? Do they come back right when the misfire occurs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thats interesting... do these codes come back right away? Do they come back right when the misfire occurs?
No. Oddly this is only the first time these two have come up and I had one other cam code when this all started.

It’s always random misfire codes or specific cylinder misfire codes
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
To add to the diagnostic I have been doing, the tone rings on both cams are fine and in place.

However, I have recently (as of the 10th this morning) discovered a puddle of coolant on the ground and discovered I have a leak coming from somewhere. I can only imagine its a headgasket, as I've looked from stem to stern in and under the bay and can find no hard evidence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Update. Coolant leak has not been located, I’m skeptical that it even came out of my car and not my late fathers built 4.6 2V Tbird that’s due for a complete overhaul.


Both me and Alan put our heads together and determined that the WOTBOX being tied into the cam sensor is what gave me the cam sensor circuit codes.

The proper routing for the RPM signal is the middle wire on the crank sensor. I will be fixing that and the WOTBox will work again.

Also, he suggested for me to check valve lash, it’s acting like the exhaust isn’t fully getting out of the cylinders so when I try to cram boost on top of it it’s not happy. So I’ll check the lash out, and I’ll be able to verify if it’s out of spec. The 2 step is really hard on the exhaust side and the previous owner was on it frequently. (EDIT-I got this last line of info directly from Alan and a video Nishan put up about WOTBox. SOURCE- Direct from a TunedByNishan video - Cutting off the ignition source for 2 Step and No Lift Shifting puts a lot of energy and heat into the exhaust side of the cylinder head and turbocharger in order to help keep boost up between shifts by driving the turbo with energy not consumed during normal combustion (due to unburnt fuel that was not ignited inside the cylinder). If you abuse this feature and use it aimlessly, expect to see significant wear with OEM exhaust valves and exhaust valve lash. It’s not uncommon for the exhaust valve lash to tighten up causing misfires and see bent exhaust valves when you abuse this feature.)
Time will tell! If the valve lash is in spec, the head is coming off the car and it’s inspection time. It might also be top end build time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Found out the NGK Ruthenium HX plugs he’s been running are wrong. Still a step too hot. Have some ITV24s coming in this evening and we are re-borescoping the car with a fixed camera to see if we can see anything. It also has a mirror attachment so I might can see the combustion chamber surfaces.
Then we measure valve lash.
I have confirmed also that this car has 55LB springs, and headstuds but an otherwise stone stock head. They were originally thought to be 85LBs but at this point I imagine I’m looking at ripping the top end off and building a cylinder head anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The following was found when I checked lash.
Valve lash(measured from the front
Intake
1-.009
2-.009
3-.008
4-.008
5-.009
6-.009
7-.008
8-.008
Exhaust
1-.015
2-.015
3-.014
4-.015
5-.014
6-.014
7-.007
8-.009

As you can see, cyl. 4 is quite the anomaly. While it’s not the worst to spark plugs it is the cylinder that the engine is tossing codes for. Cyl. 3 destroyed my latest plug and for what cause I can’t really determine. The top of the piston appeared to be extremely dark compared to the rest of them. Attached is a plug with the strap burned completely off.
Lash is for sure the cause of the main misfire, but I suspect other causes for this. The lash doesn’t point that way.
Cylinder Gas Engineering Household hardware Auto part
 

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The following was found when I checked lash.
Valve lash(measured from the front
Intake
1-.009
2-.009
3-.008
4-.008
5-.009
6-.009
7-.008
8-.008
Exhaust
1-.015
2-.015
3-.014
4-.015
5-.014
6-.014
7-.007
8-.009

As you can see, cyl. 4 is quite the anomaly. While it’s not the worst to spark plugs it is the cylinder that the engine is tossing codes for. Cyl. 3 destroyed my latest plug and for what cause I can’t really determine. The top of the piston appeared to be extremely dark compared to the rest of them. Attached is a plug with the strap burned completely off.
Lash is for sure the cause of the main misfire, but I suspect other causes for this. The lash doesn’t point that way. View attachment 400047
That there is a melted plug, most likely from running too lean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
That there is a melted plug, most likely from running too lean.
I am quite aware of that lol. To my own fault, I have no idea how it’s melted. AFRs have been great, these plugs have like 200 miles on them and I didn’t beat on it broken even once. The same cylinder also shattered a plugs insulator, with no other indication of issues other then a dark colored piston top.
 
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