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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know if you are able to tweak your stock waste gate to increase PSI?
 

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Does anyone know if you are able to tweak your stock waste gate to increase PSI?
Yes, but you need to get it tuned afterwards, it gets really wild and not smooth power delivery until the WDC is corrected.

The main reason to do it is for a little bump in psi, but a longer hold at max psi. I will have to find my data logs, but iirc you get like 500 rpms more peak psi hold, and at redline its a 2-3 psi difference iirc.

If you have not come to this conclusion yet, I will just say it aloud. Yes my stock wastegate is fully adjusted for max tiny turbo performance.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, but you need to get it tuned afterwards, it gets really wild and not smooth power delivery until the WDC is corrected.

The main reason to do it is for a little bump in psi, but a longer hold at max psi. I will have to find my data logs, but iirc you get like 500 rpms more peak psi hold, and at redline its a 2-3 psi difference iirc.

If you have not come to this conclusion yet, I will just say it aloud. Yes my stock wastegate is fully adjusted for max tiny turbo performance.
Hell yes, that's what I wanted to hear. How did you do it to yours?
 

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Hell yes, that's what I wanted to hear. How did you do it to yours?
lol, you remove the heatshield from the turbo, then adjust the actuating rod. Theres some guides on here if you search around.

Its like a T30 for the heatshield bolts, then one 10mm wrench, iirc, to adjust the two nuts.

It was nuts without my tune being adjusted for it, super touchy with a crazy powerband.

Once it was adjusted, it was smooth power. Really nothing that crazy, theres other mods to be done. Big turbo is the way to go. Our turbos suck, unless you plan on towing...
 
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lol, you remove the heatshield from the turbo, then adjust the actuating rod. Theres some guides on here if you search around.

Its like a T30 for the heatshield bolts, then one 10mm wrench, iirc, to adjust the two nuts.

It was nuts without my tune being adjusted for it, super touchy with a crazy powerband.

Once it was adjusted, it was smooth power. Really nothing that crazy, theres other mods to be done. Big turbo is the way to go. Our turbos suck, unless you plan on towing...
I'm extremely happy with how it is stock (and don't quite have a budget for any mods, atm) and being that this is my 1st turbo'd vehicle, I cant imagine it getting old any time soon. Having said that, I appreciate your feed back and knowledge on the matter, it will be well used. Now, what would you suggest I do to the factory exhaust to get a little more REAL sound from it?
 

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I'm extremely happy with how it is stock (and don't quite have a budget for any mods, atm) and being that this is my 1st turbo'd vehicle, I cant imagine it getting old any time soon. Having said that, I appreciate your feed back and knowledge on the matter, it will be well used. Now, what would you suggest I do to the factory exhaust to get a little more REAL sound from it?
resonator delete and symposer delete. 60 bucks (80 if you actually delete they symposer.. you can simply just unplug the symposer under the hood so it's all connected but doesn't let the sound make it to the cabin.. best and cheapest route IMO for exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
resonator delete and symposer delete. 60 bucks (80 if you actually delete they symposer.. you can simply just unplug the symposer under the hood so it's all connected but doesn't let the sound make it to the cabin.. best and cheapest route IMO for exhaust.
gonna look up the "how to" this weekend... thanks guys
 

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gonna look up the "how to" this weekend... thanks guys
This is what I did before my magnaflow. Had a shop straight pipe the resonator's spot for $70. I ran with the symposer on as the res delete doesn't do anything too crazy. About a month before my magnaflow I unplugged the symposer to get used to driving with out it. If you're having a shop do the res delete, the symposer is literally just unplugging it.

ETA: I didn't mean to make the resonator delete sound not worth it. It totally made the car sound like a performance car, from the outside at least.
 

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I don't have a problem with the symposer.

Ways to make extra money -

Donate Plasma: I did this for nearly four years, it's easy, painless and if you drinks lots of water takes only 25-30 mins; I made $325-$370 a month.

Drive for Uber: You don't have to do this forever just set a goal and then stop driving unless you want to continue. I drive for Uber 3 evening a week (Thur, Fri, Sat): I make $1,500-1,600 a month regularly but have made $2,000 in a month a couple of times, I use about $50 in fuel a week.

If you did both, set a six month goal but also make one of your goals to have $1000 in your savings account, not checking. This is your emergency fund...

Plasma $350 x 6 = #2,100

Uber (give up your night life for six months) = $9,000

Total = $10,000 for mods, $1,100 in savings.

Don't bother with bolt-on parts -

Turbo upgrade, tuning device, down pipe and water meth injection = 400+ hp

Do all the work yourself and you'll have enough left over for suspension mods, brake upgrades, cooling system upgrades or even a nice vacation somewhere.
 

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I've got a turbo smart waste gate actuator and am getting a check engine light for overboost. Don't want to derail the thread so I'll be very brief. Bought the car used, don't want to mess with adjusting the actuator. Does anyone want to sell their stock takeoff?
 

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I've got a turbo smart waste gate actuator and am getting a check engine light for overboost. Don't want to derail the thread so I'll be very brief. Bought the car used, don't want to mess with adjusting the actuator. Does anyone want to sell their stock takeoff?
Once you reach the required post count, please make a WTB thread. There's gotta be some people with stock ones available.

And yeah, you need to set the TS WGA properly, it's not just a bolt in swap. One of the reasons I didnt buy one, its not worth it on the stock turbo.
 
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I am curious as to what you hit max? I have never hit overboost 21 PSI on my 2016 yet. Only get 18ish all the time after 3rd gear. Would love to see it actually overboost.
 

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I've got a turbo smart waste gate actuator and am getting a check engine light for overboost. Don't want to derail the thread so I'll be very brief. Bought the car used, don't want to mess with adjusting the actuator. Does anyone want to sell their stock takeoff?
Leave it on... You need 4mm of pre-load, it might be more. If you are on the stock tune, this is another reason why your getting a overboost code, that is eliminated with a tune since they typically set boost higher than the stock timed overboost.

An upgrade of the WG is worth it but it's highly recommended to upgrade the inter-cooler with a E tune or water injection + gas tune

I am curious as to what you hit max? I have never hit overboost 21 PSI on my 2016 yet. Only get 18ish all the time after 3rd gear. Would love to see it actually overboost.
I have no idea what it is stock. Mine is 22.84 psi spike and 15 psi at red line.
 

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Once you reach the required post count, please make a WTB thread. There's gotta be some people with stock ones available.

And yeah, you need to set the TS WGA properly, it's not just a bolt in swap. One of the reasons I didnt buy one, its not worth it on the stock turbo.

Researching my issue it seems that with the stock turbo and no tune the Turbosmart WG actuator isn't really beneficial. The car does have a larger intercooler but I don't plan on doing a tune. I don't want to deal with potential reliability or warranty issues. That's why I'd rather just put the stock controller back on. Unfortunately that parts come with the turbo and can't be ordered separately.

Leave it on... You need 4mm of pre-load, it might be more. If you are on the stock tune, this is another reason why your getting a overboost code, that is eliminated with a tune since they typically set boost higher than the stock timed overboost.

An upgrade of the WG is worth it but it's highly recommended to upgrade the inter-cooler with a E tune or water injection + gas tune



I have no idea what it is stock. Mine is 22.84 psi spike and 15 psi at red line.
So with the Turbosmart WG actuator even adjusted to the base setting I will still get an overboost code without a tune?

I searched ebay and craigslist for a stock actuator but nothing was listed. I'm assuming the bulk of people that take them off either keep them or throw them out.
 

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My car is stock 2015 st3 aside from the AP and tune from stratified and the highest I seen peak was 23.28 psi boost when I hit 4th gear. Don't know if I have a factory freak or stratified is that good :eek:)
 

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This is what I did before my magnaflow. Had a shop straight pipe the resonator's spot for $70. I ran with the symposer on as the res delete doesn't do anything too crazy. About a month before my magnaflow I unplugged the symposer to get used to driving with out it. If you're having a shop do the res delete, the symposer is literally just unplugging it.

ETA: I didn't mean to make the resonator delete sound not worth it. It totally made the car sound like a performance car, from the outside at least.
I agree... I think it sounds great from the inside, but subtle on the inside so there is no issue of droning or anything... Its really IMO the perfect fix b/c it's not a whole lot diff on the outside when WOT compared to magnaflow or anything.. Plus its stupid cheap..
 

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Researching my issue it seems that with the stock turbo and no tune the Turbosmart WG actuator isn't really beneficial. The car does have a larger intercooler but I don't plan on doing a tune. I don't want to deal with potential reliability or warranty issues. That's why I'd rather just put the stock controller back on. Unfortunately that parts come with the turbo and can't be ordered separately.



So with the Turbosmart WG actuator even adjusted to the base setting I will still get an overboost code without a tune?

I searched ebay and craigslist for a stock actuator but nothing was listed. I'm assuming the bulk of people that take them off either keep them or throw them out.
All you need to do is keep loosing the pre-load until the over-boost codes away.
 

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My car is stock 2015 st3 aside from the AP and tune from stratified and the highest I seen peak was 23.28 psi boost when I hit 4th gear. Don't know if I have a factory freak or stratified is that good :eek:)
Nothing freaky about it. I saw 22.84 peak or a .44 difference.
 

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lol, you remove the heatshield from the turbo, then adjust the actuating rod. Theres some guides on here if you search around.

Its like a T30 for the heatshield bolts, then one 10mm wrench, iirc, to adjust the two nuts.

It was nuts without my tune being adjusted for it, super touchy with a crazy powerband.

Once it was adjusted, it was smooth power. Really nothing that crazy, theres other mods to be done. Big turbo is the way to go. Our turbos suck, unless you plan on towing...
So you said the tune adjustment smooth out the power band I understand it’s recommended but let’s say someone wanted to run they are pre-loaded wastegate the stock one of course for a few months or so until they go big turbo will it have any negative affects as far as like hurting the motor or causing damage to it without a tune or will it just be crazy like you described all the time with no adverse effects as far as damaging anything?
 
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