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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My ST just passed over the 50k mark, but I have a ESP plan to 100k and I got to wondering if there's anything in the 50 to 100k window that should be replaced, so I can just have it done (belts, fluid changes besides oil, etc..)?

The dealer never really recommends anything when I go in there, but I only come in for recalls and broken stuff. I do my own oil changes. I also haven't really found any good info online. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.
 

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Transmission fluid is good to do every 30,000-40,000 miles. Also keep an eye on the plugs, the ST has an appetite for them.
 
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Agree on the spark plus as a good idea.
One HUGE item so many miss is brake fluid flush.
To stop corrosion the brake fluid should be flushed about every three years.
Brake fluid is a time thing, and not much of a mileage thing.
Once the old brake fluid is in for about five years, the antilock, and caliper piston bores can start getting messed up.
So safe is three years, still OK is every four years..
So many dealers neglect this maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Agree on the spark plus as a good idea.
One HUGE item so many miss is brake fluid flush.
To stop corrosion the brake fluid should be flushed about every three years.
Brake fluid is a time thing, and not much of a mileage thing.
Once the old brake fluid is in for about five years, the antilock, and caliper piston bores can start getting messed up.
So safe is three years, still OK is every four years..
So many dealers neglect this maintenance.
I was wondering about that!! Is it hard to do on the ST? I assume a power bleeder would be needed?
 

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Also don't forget to flush the coolant system. Unless you run Evans Waterless the factory coolant degrades and causes corrosion in the radiator and water pump. Usually every two years is good rule of thumb.
 
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I was wondering about that!! Is it hard to do on the ST? I assume a power bleeder would be needed?
Easy to do on any car. And no a power bleeder is not required.
Gravity will do the job. Plus pumping up the brake prior to each wheel being done..
THe pressure from the 'hard' brake pedal (after pumping it to being hard)
is enough pressure to start the fluid moving out when one opens the bleeder valve.
Gavity causes the fluid to continue to flow down the tubing used..
At the end. The final bleed, doing the pump the brake til hard,
and just cracking the bleed to allow half the fluid under pressure to exit.

I used a thin tube and a glass bottle to collect the fluid exiting.
A trick is get the wrench on the bleed valve then put on the tubing. using a closed six point wrench. Do not use the two side 'flat'
to try and loosen and tighten the bleed valve!
One other point is NEVER LET THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR GO EMPTY!

I have not dome my ST.. but I did my Contour SVT, using just the OEM trunk jack.

Also, the clutch line is bleedable. but works best with two people. (and IMO it is not nearly as important to flush as the brakes)
 

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Also don't forget to flush the coolant system. Unless you run Evans Waterless the factory coolant degrades and causes corrosion in the radiator and water pump. Usually every two years is good rule of thumb.
The Ford owners manual (I checked 2014) specifies initial coolant change at 6 years of age or 100K miles, whichever comes first. After that every 3 years/50K miles. Do we know there is an issue with the Ford red coolant losing anti-corrosion properties earlier? It's generally not a good thing to mix different coolant chemistries, so I tend to favor leaving the factory coolant alone for as long as practical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The Ford owners manual (I checked 2014) specifies initial coolant change at 6 years of age or 100K miles, whichever comes first. After that every 3 years/50K miles. Do we know there is an issue with the Ford red coolant losing anti-corrosion properties earlier? It's generally not a good thing to mix different coolant chemistries, so I tend to favor leaving the factory coolant alone for as long as practical.
My ST has either seeped or burned a tiny amount of coolant since it was brand new! It will go from MAX to MIN every 15,000 miles or so in the reservoir and I just top it back off with pre-mix red Ford coolant. It's like an auto coolant refresh! :crazy:
 

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It may be rated for 150k, but my experience with it is that there have been huge issues and class actions involving Dexcool (gm engines). I would still flush it. The coolant works but I wouldn't push it. You can wait, or change. It's like plugs, some folks say that our plugs are Iridium tough #$&+ stuff. They say they will go 150k too. Maybe yes, maybe no. But one thing is true, they will be ugly by then. Imo better to have fresh than crap at 100 or 150k protect your pump. It doesn't cost that much.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It may be rated for 150k, but my experience with it is that there have been huge issues and class actions involving Dexcool (gm engines). I would still flush it. The coolant works but I wouldn't push it. You can wait, or change. It's like plugs, some folks say that our plugs are Iridium tough #$&+ stuff. They say they will go 150k too. Maybe yes, maybe no. But one thing is true, they will be ugly by then. Imo better to have fresh than crap at 100 or 150k protect your pump. It doesn't cost that much.
For sure. I think for ANY fluids, changing&flushing them on the safe side of things is always a worthy venture vs. holding out.
 

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Interesting thread here. Just rolled 30k miles. Is there any major 30k thing I should be doing? Or any recommendations?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Interesting thread here. Just rolled 30k miles. Is there any major 30k thing I should be doing? Or any recommendations?
Seems like plugs probably wouldn't be a bad idea from what people are saying. And if you're up for it, tranny fluid.


Just to recap on my car, which just hit 56k.. This weekend I performed:
-Transmission fluid change (fluid was medium/dark brown/red color. Didn't look as bad as I would have though. But the new stuff is much clearer!)
-Brake Fluid flush/change. SO glad I still have my Motive Powerbleeder. Best tool for the job IMO.
-Spark Plugs (they looked pretty bad! Electrode was worn away a lot. Also, does Ford not do anti seize on those threads? Some of the threads felt HORRIBLE removing the old plugs).
 

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Just the fact of using anti-seize on new plugs is a very good reason to change the sparkplugs before 100k
Once the plug get stuck after years on being in there...
Big PITA if you break it off....
(Even pulling the plugs, using anti-seize, andresetting the gap.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just the fact of using anti-seize on new plugs is a very good reason to change the sparkplugs before 100k
Once the plug get stuck after years on being in there...
Big PITA if you break it off....
(Even pulling the plugs, using anti-seize, andresetting the gap.)
Absolutely. The idea of one breaking or stripping while removing was terrifying me the whole time. I just took it really slow and easy. New ones went in like buttuh though with my anti seize.
 
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