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I still say you'd be kicking yourself if you didnt do the synchros while you had the trans out. Its a lot of labor and time getting that trans back out. Since you have the time, do it up. We are here to keep you from pulling a @junits15 (too soon? lol, nothing like some good ol' fashioned ball busting)

You need to inspect the synchros, gears, shifting hubs, shift forks, gear synchro interface, and the case for broken mounts/cracks.








Yeah, Mfactory normally plays ball if you PM them. I have had nothing but positive experiences both chatting, and purchasing from them. Awesome vendor.
Hey now mistakes are how we learn


But OP I hope you never have to spend as much cash as I did lol
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I was browsing around Mountunes website and they offer a full transmission service with optional diff install. Turnaround time is about a week, they only offer Quaife, but it's about $2500 for the service with shipping, Quaife, and synchros. I'm going that route. I have off the week of the 4th so I'll be pulling the trans at that time. That isn't much more than I was going to spend on the salvage yard trans, diff, and other parts, and this was it gets done by a pro.
 

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I was browsing around Mountunes website and they offer a full transmission service with optional diff install. Turnaround time is about a week, they only offer Quaife, but it's about $2500 for the service with shipping, Quaife, and synchros. I'm going that route. I have off the week of the 4th so I'll be pulling the trans at that time. That isn't much more than I was going to spend on the salvage yard trans, diff, and other parts, and this was it gets done by a pro.
Lol! Well there yah go.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I'm still conflicted. I feel ashamed outsourcing the work, since I've always wanted to dig into a transmission. Guess removing and reinstalling the transmission will have to suffice.

Since it's a lot of work to pull the transmission, I reckon it's a good idea to put in a new clutch even though I don't need it at 75k miles and I've had it since 13k. Any recommendations? OEM seems fine tbh but not sure if there are comparable kits out there.
 

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Yeah, I'm in the same boat as you - but like Duece - I'd pay me over someone else to do the work... Pays for the tools, and better parts. So I'm going with the stage one XClutch Kit, flywheel combo (while I'm in there - not that anything is slippin yet)... SS braided clutch lines (while I'm in there), Shifter cable bushings (while I'm in there); Also a pass side CV Joint (while I'm in there); and a MFactory LSD (again, while I'm in there) all just to deal with a very occasional 2nd gear synchro that finally showed up after 85k (going with the Mountune Synchro kit). Just waiting on a few more shims, and bolts to come in...
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Understood. I think I'll go with OEM since mine is fine and I don't plan on adding any power.

I'm looking through the write-up on how to remove the transmission. It points out removing the axle nuts from the hubs, in preperation for completely removing the halfshafts. I'm curious though, is that necessary? In previous vehicles, when pulling the transmission to do the clutch, I've just unbolted the lower control arm and lower strut bolts, which allowed enough slack to pull the halfshaft out of the transmission. Is that strategy possible with the FoST?
 

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@livelyjay, FWIW if I lived in the US I'd likely let Mountune do the work as well. After looking at other people's experiences I'd still do the synchros, maybe a Stage 1 clutch , and MFactory LSD. Everything I've seen points to the OEM synchros being a weak point in an otherwise good transmission and after 30 years of fixing stuff (Guitars, cars, F-18s, Diesel generators, Stereos. etc) I hate pulling **** apart twice if I don't have to. You have to do you, though and it's your budget not mine and I fully respect that.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I'm going to have Mountune do the work. They will only install a Quaife, so I'm stuck with it, not really disappointing though since they make great stuff. I have an insurance vehicle inspection next Friday since I switched agencies. After that I'll start tearing it down and make the Mountune purchase and they'll send me the shipping container.
 

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I'm going to have Mountune do the work. They will only install a Quaife, so I'm stuck with it, not really disappointing though since they make great stuff. I have an insurance vehicle inspection next Friday since I switched agencies. After that I'll start tearing it down and make the Mountune purchase and they'll send me the shipping container.
Good Fortune!
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Anyone got a suggestion for OEM clutch replacement? ... Buy from Ford? ... Go with something from AutoZone or Advance? RockAuto is my usual go to but they are sold out.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
3 hours and about 3/4 of the way done with removal. The starter bracket was a pain in the dick. I bought the wrong puller from Harbor Freight, so got a loaner from Advance. Taking a break for the day. I'll have the transmission off tomorrow.
380300

380301
 

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3 hours and about 3/4 of the way done with removal. The starter bracket was a pain in the dick. I bought the wrong puller from Harbor Freight, so got a loaner from Advance. Taking a break for the day. I'll have the transmission off tomorrow.
Lol, i freakin hate that starter bracket!!! Nuts and studs in a tight spot, ugh

Puller for what?
 

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Discussion Starter #76
A puller to push the axle out of the hub, so I guess it's a pusher and not a puller ... Lol

Any tips for the starter? I'm going to watch that part of the how to video later or tomorrow morning.

I'm also kind of frustrated at the body shop. They obviously lost fender liners screws and didn't bother replacing them, and they didn't bother refastening the lower splash to the bumper. Made the uninstall go faster, but it still really bugs me.
 

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A puller to push the axle out of the hub, so I guess it's a pusher and not a puller ... Lol

Any tips for the starter? I'm going to watch that part of the how to video later or tomorrow morning.

I'm also kind of frustrated at the body shop. They obviously lost fender liners screws and didn't bother replacing them, and they didn't bother refastening the lower splash to the bumper. Made the uninstall go faster, but it still really bugs me.
Ohh, I'm the guy who threads the axel nut back on flush with the axle, then takes a lump or deadblow hammer and get the axle to move. Then unthread the nut and remove the axle. I also antiseize those CV axle splines for future removal, when I reinstall of course.

The starter is just a PITA. You have those little nuts, and the bracket, then the studs that hold the starter on. I think i use either a ratcheting box wrench, or a stubby wrench, or maybe a stubby ratchet for it. You'd think I'd remember, I've removed it 5 times already, lmfao. Sorry.

Popping the starter out kinda sucks to, as well as getting it back in it's slot when you reinstall. Sometimes it goes in easy, sometimes its a ***** to get it to engage the flywheel teeth properly, and get it to seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Gotcha. I def anti seize axles when I reinstall too, it's good practice in parts like that. I didn't pull the ball joint like in the how to. I pulled the front bolt off the control arms, and it seems to have enough wiggle room. I'll see tomorrow when I try to pull the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
There's not enough give with just the front control arm bolt removed. I'm going to try to pop the axle out of the trans and wiggle it upward to see if I can get more wiggle room to get it out of the hub. Next step is one bolt off the rear section of the control arm. I really really don't want to mess with the ball joint if I don't have to. I'm not in a rush since I still don't know if Mountune shipped the crate.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Removing the first bolt from the rear control arm bracket leaves enough give to remove the axle from the hub.

I think the transmission jack might make this more difficult to remove from the actual car, but it does help with holding it and rolling it out from the car. Getting that trans out and clearing the frame and subframe was a pain. But it's out now. Roughly 5 hours of labor, but I took my time labeling all the rear passenger side bolts since they aren't uniform.
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