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Is it okay to be getting AFRs wot ranging from 9.85 to 10.2
Seems rich idk.

Strat stage 3 tune
At wot...no. Boost leak maybe? Send logs to tuner


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm fine now guys the Strat tune was really making my car unbalanced. Its on stock suspension and the tune didn't have linear power, it was two modes: a rush of power at the low-mid to mid (4k) and it would just completely go flat after that. Ignition corrections wouldn't even go past +1 and would usually strike negative a little then recover to 0 or 0.50 ruining the powerband at the time. Even with the OAR at -1 the car felt really unstable an unpredictable like its running out of steam WOT. It was actually faster at half throttle and just letting the boost build. The AFRs would always go into the low 10's to 9.85 and shoot a large cloud of unburned fuel out each shift. Idk I really didn't like it or trust the tune. My cars at stage 3 BTW.

So i took a shot in the dark and switched to the Cobb OTS Stage 3 93 tune and WOW. At first its really slow but you gotta do 3 or 4 WOT pulls in 4th and then it really wakes up. The power is way more smooth and linear and absolutely no negative corrections in the 17-18 WOT runs in 4th i did tonight. Corrections went to +4 every time and the car actually felt fun, balanced, and healthy again. Its been a while like months since I had that feeling when it was stock. I can slam through the gears and corner way better, no wheel spin, and a nice smooth but heavy pull almost similar to Starts and it has the same strong pull all the way to 5600 RPM. Did some logs and found that the car liked it way better. Everything improved.. AFRs are in the late 10.8 to 11.2 range, better fuel economy, and it matches and balances with the stock suspension and motor mounts very well. I gotta hand it to Cobb, its a great tune and felt safe and more stable. It was just absolutely a blast to drive again, I really felt confident and stable taking corners even with Winter tires. Probably the most fun I ever had driving it, a night to remember for sure.

Now I don't know why the Strat tune was just so out of whack for me, I really grew to not like it. Maybe its my Suspension and motor mounts that can't handle the 3k-4.5 surge idk. I'm not trying to discredit them but I think for especially a flash tune it varies per car. I just didn't like that it wasn't linear at all, even with summer tires. I also had a considerable amount of turbo lag slamming gears WOT which made the car feel really unbalanced and sluggish. I did really like the Strat TC but I think i'm going to hang the hat on them for now, maybe a custom tune will work better. The other issue was past 75% accel position it just didn't feel right. It seemed slower and sounded like it was having a really hard time and the AFRs would continue to run really really rich, the engine seems out of steam and wouldn't advance timing enough due to it detecting knock or predicting its going to occur. Positive corrections were stale with it dipping into the negatives slightly each run and barely recovering. So not sure whats up, maybe if some corrections can be made to the tune i'd go back but for now sad to say, i'm discontinuing running that tune. Maybe my engine is a bad egg and doesn't want more power or i need more supporting suspension mods and better BOV tuning to reduce turbo lag.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
My car:

2016 Ford Focus ST w/401A package and ST1.
Mileage: 34k

Mods:
Depo Racing 5.5 "the beast" FMIC w/blocking plate for winter weather, keeps temps from dropping below freezing and more consistent.
Mountune Turbo-back exhaust system
Turbosmart Adjustable BOV - Internal (set a qtr turn to softer after following instructions tuning it using a altimeter)
NGK 6510 Spark plugs with 15k on them, gapped to .28
Green Filter w/Stock intake assembly and air filter cover removed, cleaned at 29k miles
Cobb Accessport AP3 w/Cobb OTS 93 Stage 3 Tune
Fire retardant material on hood removed
Weather stripping near wipers removed
Sound Symposer installed w/tubing removed.
Cobb Polymer Exhaust hangers

Oil change intervals: 5k miles, using 5W-30 Full Synthetic and Motorcraft FL-400S oil filter as recommended by Mountune over the FL-910S oil filter.

Oil: Castrol Edge Synthetic Motor Oil, ran Amsoil Platinum all changes before. Recommended Castrol Edge by a Amsoil rep if its not available to buy due to its similar Low-Zinc count to improve LSPI prevention and better turbo lubrication.

Warranty Work:
Head replaced at 13k miles from a misdiagnosis, ECU updated to version 50S prevent a bug that would signal a false misfire on cold start.
Valve cover seals replaced at 28k due to a leak from improper use of Ford Sealant by the tech that replaced the head.
Cam Pulley cover seal replaced at 28k, same reason.

Maintenance:
All standard as recommended by Ford minus a more soon oil change interval due to aggressive driving on my behalf.
Brake fluid replaced with Motul fluid at 33k.
Oil flushed with 5 qtz of Motorcraft 5w-30 Synthetic Blend each time the oil is emptied from the pan and filter inlet.
Transmission fluid replaced at 33k.

Future Maintenance:
Intake valve cleaning by Ford tomorrow to remove excess carbon caking on valves.
Warranty work done to due the HPFP and RR Fear pump gasket leak causing engine oil to mix with fuel and splatter on parts of the engine and transmission front diff/passenger driveshaft and turbo.
 

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My car:

2016 Ford Focus ST w/401A package and ST1.
Mileage: 34k

Mods:
Depo Racing 5.5 "the beast" FMIC w/blocking plate for winter weather, keeps temps from dropping below freezing and more consistent.
Mountune Turbo-back exhaust system
Turbosmart Adjustable BOV - Internal (set a qtr turn to softer after following instructions tuning it using a altimeter)
NGK 6510 Spark plugs with 15k on them, gapped to .28
Green Filter w/Stock intake assembly and air filter cover removed, cleaned at 29k miles
Cobb Accessport AP3 w/Cobb OTS 93 Stage 3 Tune
Fire retardant material on hood removed
Weather stripping near wipers removed
Sound Symposer installed w/tubing removed.
Cobb Polymer Exhaust hangers

Oil change intervals: 5k miles, using 5W-30 Full Synthetic and Motorcraft FL-400S oil filter as recommended by Mountune over the FL-910S oil filter.

Oil: Castrol Edge Synthetic Motor Oil, ran Amsoil Platinum all changes before. Recommended Castrol Edge by a Amsoil rep if its not available to buy due to its similar Low-Zinc count to improve LSPI prevention and better turbo lubrication.

Warranty Work:
Head replaced at 13k miles from a misdiagnosis, ECU updated to version 50S prevent a bug that would signal a false misfire on cold start.
Valve cover seals replaced at 28k due to a leak from improper use of Ford Sealant by the tech that replaced the head.
Cam Pulley cover seal replaced at 28k, same reason.

Maintenance:
All standard as recommended by Ford minus a more soon oil change interval due to aggressive driving on my behalf.
Brake fluid replaced with Motul fluid at 33k.
Oil flushed with 5 qtz of Motorcraft 5w-30 Synthetic Blend each time the oil is emptied from the pan and filter inlet.
Transmission fluid replaced at 33k.

Future Maintenance:
Intake valve cleaning by Ford tomorrow to remove excess carbon caking on valves.
Warranty work done to due the HPFP and RR Fear pump gasket leak causing engine oil to mix with fuel and splatter on parts of the engine and transmission front diff/passenger driveshaft and turbo.
Was that the initial flash tune/base map? Have you sent data logs to Stratified for map revisions?


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I'm fine now guys the Strat tune was really making my car unbalanced. Its on stock suspension and the tune didn't have linear power, it was two modes: a rush of power at the low-mid to mid (4k) and it would just completely go flat after that. Ignition corrections wouldn't even go past +1 and would usually strike negative a little then recover to 0 or 0.50 ruining the powerband at the time. Even with the OAR at -1 the car felt really unstable an unpredictable like its running out of steam WOT. It was actually faster at half throttle and just letting the boost build. The AFRs would always go into the low 10's to 9.85 and shoot a large cloud of unburned fuel out each shift. Idk I really didn't like it or trust the tune. My cars at stage 3 BTW.

So i took a shot in the dark and switched to the Cobb OTS Stage 3 93 tune and WOW. At first its really slow but you gotta do 3 or 4 WOT pulls in 4th and then it really wakes up. The power is way more smooth and linear and absolutely no negative corrections in the 17-18 WOT runs in 4th i did tonight. Corrections went to +4 every time and the car actually felt fun, balanced, and healthy again. Its been a while like months since I had that feeling when it was stock. I can slam through the gears and corner way better, no wheel spin, and a nice smooth but heavy pull almost similar to Starts and it has the same strong pull all the way to 5600 RPM. Did some logs and found that the car liked it way better. Everything improved.. AFRs are in the late 10.8 to 11.2 range, better fuel economy, and it matches and balances with the stock suspension and motor mounts very well. I gotta hand it to Cobb, its a great tune and felt safe and more stable. It was just absolutely a blast to drive again, I really felt confident and stable taking corners even with Winter tires. Probably the most fun I ever had driving it, a night to remember for sure.

Now I don't know why the Strat tune was just so out of whack for me, I really grew to not like it. Maybe its my Suspension and motor mounts that can't handle the 3k-4.5 surge idk. I'm not trying to discredit them but I think for especially a flash tune it varies per car. I just didn't like that it wasn't linear at all, even with summer tires. I also had a considerable amount of turbo lag slamming gears WOT which made the car feel really unbalanced and sluggish. I did really like the Strat TC but I think i'm going to hang the hat on them for now, maybe a custom tune will work better. The other issue was past 75% accel position it just didn't feel right. It seemed slower and sounded like it was having a really hard time and the AFRs would continue to run really really rich, the engine seems out of steam and wouldn't advance timing enough due to it detecting knock or predicting its going to occur. Positive corrections were stale with it dipping into the negatives slightly each run and barely recovering. So not sure whats up, maybe if some corrections can be made to the tune i'd go back but for now sad to say, i'm discontinuing running that tune. Maybe my engine is a bad egg and doesn't want more power or i need more supporting suspension mods and better BOV tuning to reduce turbo lag.

Have you contacted us and sent a datalog? We're always more than willing to take a look and see what's going on.

Thanks, [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I've been with Strat since the beginning of tuning. I really enjoyed the tune before the downpipe/new exhaust install. I think it gave it a little too much power for the rest of the car to handle. I prefer balance over pure speed, so i'll consider going back and getting a log review when I upgrade the motor mounts, coilovers, and a rear-sway bar. Now I think that my Strat tune probably wasn't configured correctly when I repurchased a Stage 3 type tune. Maybe this is all happening because the motor mounts are stock and it just urks the car the wrong way and it isn't able to properly get the power down.

So i'm not going to say the reading i'm getting are bad, I don't know how Strat does their tunes so Negative/Positive corrections didn't really concern me as it stay within the safety measurements recommended by my tuner. So yeah i'll submit a log review but at that point, i'm just going to have a pro-tune done. Flash tunes are just rubbing me the wrong way, i'm not going big turbo and if I do, its only going to be something a little bigger, so I don't mind paying $500 for a dyno tune that way the tech and e-tuner can work through each issue and have a perfectly balanced and safe tune. I see flash tunes as too safe so they aren't able to produce smooth consistent power, the Cobb one does, but they tune conservatively IMO and not as powerful but for some reason are able to maintain better and slightly leaner AFRs.
 

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I've been with Strat since the beginning of tuning. I really enjoyed the tune before the downpipe/new exhaust install. I think it gave it a little too much power for the rest of the car to handle. I prefer balance over pure speed, so i'll consider going back and getting a log review when I upgrade the motor mounts, coilovers, and a rear-sway bar. Now I think that my Strat tune probably wasn't configured correctly when I repurchased a Stage 3 type tune. Maybe this is all happening because the motor mounts are stock and it just urks the car the wrong way and it isn't able to properly get the power down.

So i'm not going to say the reading i'm getting are bad, I don't know how Strat does their tunes so Negative/Positive corrections didn't really concern me as it stay within the safety measurements recommended by my tuner. So yeah i'll submit a log review but at that point, i'm just going to have a pro-tune done. Flash tunes are just rubbing me the wrong way, i'm not going big turbo and if I do, its only going to be something a little bigger, so I don't mind paying $500 for a dyno tune that way the tech and e-tuner can work through each issue and have a perfectly balanced and safe tune. I see flash tunes as too safe so they aren't able to produce smooth consistent power, the Cobb one does, but they tune conservatively IMO and not as powerful but for some reason are able to maintain better and slightly leaner AFRs.
I understand, I will say as just a quick bit of advice I'd go back through and recheck your installation.

I'd be willing to bet something is not quite right, whether it be an exhaust leak or the O2 sensor being unhappy for some reason.

Just a thought, that's what I'd do on my personal car first and foremost.

Hope it all works out!

Thanks [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I did have to replace the O2 sensors. The downpipe is seated correctly, i had to reseat it the other day i didnt find carbon on the inlet seal or vband. I went under the again two days ago to install the cobb hangers and rechecked and felt around the vband, it was bone dry. Im willing to bet there is a leak on my mountune catback possibly, i found a ton kf carbon buildup on the muffler to res connector and clamp so i fixed that. I dont think i can get an accurate test with my Firestone Winterforce so ill throw my Firestone Indy 500s on and do a run with the tune logged in 4th and send it to you guys. Also the HPFP is leaking fuel and mixing it with engine oil so ill have to get that fixed too.
 

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Future Maintenance:
Intake valve cleaning by Ford tomorrow to remove excess carbon caking on valves.
You have a great build, hope this gets fully resolved for you, friend. At the risk of hijacking the thread, you mention Ford is going to clean your intake valves, but to my knowledge there wasn't a Ford approved way to do that yet, has that changed? What did they do to clean your intake valves? Walnut shell blasting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, they use a chemical spray past the throttle body and break the carbon up. I'm not sure how they get it out but my dealer said there is now an approved method. Its not walnut blasting, but its enough to break up most of the carbon on the valves. Its $250 for the service to be done and it should get the Carbon down to around a light layer on the Valves instead of the caking you'd usually see on Ecoboost motors.

So not 100% effective, i'd say about 75% effective judging by the techs studies after doing the chemical steam wash procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I had to reschedule it until after the Holidays but what i'll do for you guys is take before and after photo's of the intake valves so everyone here can see its effectiveness. Its a good price for that type of cleaning so i'm not complaining.
 

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Before and after pics would be very interesting! I know a lot of the Euro cars do the walnut shell blasting, and some people use Seafoam from AutoZone or wherever. I think Subaru uses something similar to Seafoam that is easier on the turbo, since Seafoam burns so hot it tends to cook our little snails like escargot. Naturally, I find out about an approved method just 1,000 miles after my oil catch can install. :crazy:

Thanks for the info!
 

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save yourself a few bucks and pull off the manifold, grab some CRC, a tooth brush, and some rags!!!
 
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Cleaned mine when I had the manifold off for the OCC install. I used a combo pack of pipe brushes from Harbor Freight for about $5 and used gasoline as the solvent as I figured that be the safest way to go. Soaked it all up with clean rags then let the engine crank a bit before firing it up. Cheaper, but man, I do hate removing that manifold. Lol
 

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Cleaned mine when I had the manifold off for the OCC install. I used a combo pack of pipe brushes from Harbor Freight for about $5 and used gasoline as the solvent as I figured that be the safest way to go. Soaked it all up with clean rags then let the engine crank a bit before firing it up. Cheaper, but man, I do hate removing that manifold. Lol
I was able to just undo the 5 or 6 bolts to the manifold. Did not have to remove the TB. It was a pain but I was able to get in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Well, I switched my summer tires back on and the weather was a lot warmer today (60F) and the Strat tune works a lot better now. The only thing that concerns me is that Cylinder 3 will go -6 when driving casually (very light like traffic) almost everytime right after I shift into 2nd and accelerate. I'm not sure about it never worried about it since its had that problem for almost 15k miles.

But on a more serious note I will consider cleaning them with the Valve cleaning chemicals and a soft metal brush. With no OCC ever installed and the Valves having 20k them now I think its due. Be mindful that just because they have 20k doesn't mean they aren't due but because the dealer replaced the head at 13k they did not clean the rest of the intake so it still had oil in it.

It will just be another step in diagnosing knock. Compression is fine, there is a small amount of fuel in the oil from the HPFP block gasket leak. But for the intake valves to be causing knock or a reduction in power in anticipation of a condition that will allow it, those vavles have to be really, really caked with Carbon and i'm talking about cylinders 2/3. That is where I am predicting the most carbon build up being and i'm assuming that the fuel trim is going negative a lot and running rich to account for increased back pressure in the intake manifold, indicating that not enough air is getting into the combustion chamber somewhere and running rich as a safety precaution so that 1/4 don't lean out too much. Idk I'm no expert its just something I though up taking a crap.
 
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