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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to decide if it is worth it or not...

Local guy who has a LOT of people recommending him is offering a fully wash, wax (paste), and detail (interior included) for $100. Didn't say anything about a sealant and I forgot to ask. Worth it?

I do NOT have time to do it myself and winter is fast approaching. As soon as I get my fender replaced (aunt hit me) on Dec 12th I'm going to wait a week for paint curing and have it done if I decide it's worth the $$

Edit: If he isn't adding a sealant would it be worth my while to take it home, mist the car down with detail spray to make sure it's still clean and then seal it myself if it doesn't take long?
 

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You may need to wait longer than a week. You may need to wait 60 or more days, talk to the painter to see what he recommends.
Now onto your question. As a detailer that is hard for me to answer. On one hand yes it is a great deal, I wouldn't do it that inexpensively. On the other hand, you can do it yourself with little time. If he detailer says paste wax, there is no sealant, it is a wax. I don't use wax anymore, tossed all of mine this spring. The wax isn't going to last, it isn't even going to last till winter.
If I was in your situation I would order some Adams H2O Guard and gloss or Carpro Hydro 2. Take a bucket with a bit of carwash soap to your local spray and wash carwash. Fill your bucket with water, pour in your soap. Use the sprayer to rinse off the car, wash the car with your bucket, and spray it back off with the carwash wand. While the car is still wet one panel at a time spray a bit of Hydro 2 or H2O and dry as normal. That will give you a sealant with protection that will last a few months. Come end of December or early January if there is a day in the 40's do it again. That will give you protection that will last the winter for 20 or 30 minutes a time. Megs quick interior detailer will clean and protect every surface inside. I did the interior of my car today including leather and glass in 25 minutes. It doesn't have to be done at the same time so you don't need an hour. I buy it by the gallon and use it on every car I do.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You may need to wait longer than a week. You may need to wait 60 or more days, talk to the painter to see what he recommends.
Now onto your question. As a detailer that is hard for me to answer. On one hand yes it is a great deal, I wouldn't do it that inexpensively. On the other hand, you can do it yourself with little time. If he detailer says paste wax, there is no sealant, it is a wax. I don't use wax anymore, tossed all of mine this spring. The wax isn't going to last, it isn't even going to last till winter.
If I was in your situation I would order some Adams H2O Guard and gloss or Carpro Hydro 2. Take a bucket with a bit of carwash soap to your local spray and wash carwash. Fill your bucket with water, pour in your soap. Use the sprayer to rinse off the car, wash the car with your bucket, and spray it back off with the carwash wand. While the car is still wet one panel at a time spray a bit of Hydro 2 or H2O and dry as normal. That will give you a sealant with protection that will last a few months. Come end of December or early January if there is a day in the 40's do it again. That will give you protection that will last the winter for 20 or 30 minutes a time. Megs quick interior detailer will clean and protect every surface inside. I did the interior of my car today including leather and glass in 25 minutes. It doesn't have to be done at the same time so you don't need an hour. I buy it by the gallon and use it on every car I do.
I don't know if it's just that I naturally suck at washing cars...but I can't even wash my car in under an hour let alone do these steps you're saying. Practice makes perfect I suppose...will the Hydro 2 or H2O really last that long like wax? I always thought a good clay and wax was the way to go
 

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I don't know if it's just that I naturally suck at washing cars...but I can't even wash my car in under an hour let alone do these steps you're saying. Practice makes perfect I suppose...will the Hydro 2 or H2O really last that long like wax? I always thought a good clay and wax was the way to go
No, not a wax a sealant. A wax may last 30 days, not likely in the winter. A sealant will last 6-9 months, again not likely in winter probably close to 4-6 months. The water activated sealants 4-6 months, again winter 2ish months. A good clay and sealant is the way to go, you didn't mention the detailer using clay, and at $100 I doubt he is. I only clay once a year in the spring, I do a good polish and glaze and sealant then. Every other wash I spray a spray sealant as a drying aid, then in fall I HD Speed it, and top that with a sealant. I did that a week or so ago (I made a post the day I did it). I have spray sealed it twice since then.
Even if it takes you an hour to do it, are you comfortable paying someone $100 an hour to wash your car? I will still H2O it in January then in April do my clay regime.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No, not a wax a sealant. A wax may last 30 days, not likely in the winter. A sealant will last 6-9 months, again not likely in winter probably close to 4-6 months. The water activated sealants 4-6 months, again winter 2ish months. A good clay and sealant is the way to go, you didn't mention the detailer using clay, and at $100 I doubt he is. I only clay once a year in the spring, I do a good polish and glaze and sealant then. Every other wash I spray a spray sealant as a drying aid, then in fall I HD Speed it, and top that with a sealant. I did that a week or so ago (I made a post the day I did it). I have spray sealed it twice since then.
Even if it takes you an hour to do it, are you comfortable paying someone $100 an hour to wash your car? I will still H2O it in January then in April do my clay regime.
Well certainly not $100 an hour to wash my car, but the guy also claimed this wax will last at least 3 months (which is why he recommends waiting until halfway through December to get it done) and that it takes him 3-3.5 hours to fully do it all. You're probably correct in that he isn't using clay, but if the 3 months of protection is true then it begins to make me consider the price on top of a full detail (which I can DEFINITELY do myself...just suck at washing lol) There's just so much knowledge associated with detailing and so many ways to go about it I have yet to find what is best for myself.

Money saved vs ability to do it myself is my issue mainly each time I get into the idea
 

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Here is what you need.


Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: clay lubricant, optimum rinseless wash, no rinse car wash, optimum detailing products
Follow the directions for a rinseless wash. Mix a bucket in your house and carry it to the car and rinseless wash it. Dry the car, then with a regular spray bottle wet a panel at a time, then...

Reload Spray Sealant, spray paint sealant, spray wax, CQuartz Reload Yes a different product, this you don't need lots of water after use.
Dry as normal. That is it.

For the ONR use Optimum Big Red Wash Sponge to wash it.
Use a 5 gallon bucket with three gallons of water and the amount of ONR it calls for I think 1.5 oz.

get a grit guard The Grit Guard, grit guard insert, bucket grate, car wash bucket grid,

And a gamma seal lid https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...pj_60_R50O5syRHbB4WGbS_xPy5HrARaiLRoC12zw_wcB

You can get a couple washes from one solution mix, out the lid on it, keep the sponge in the bucket and you will be ready to wash anytime.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@Cooper he also has a $50 option in which he claims to Wash and then use a "spray wax." You don't by chance think he could be referring to a sealant do you? And would that be a better option if I do NOT go with the option to do it myself with H2O Guard?
 

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Could be either one. Sprays don't last long maybe a week or so. I use them as drying aids, but not much else.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Could be either one. Sprays don't last long maybe a week or so. I use them as drying aids, but not much else.
Assuming you mean "sprays" as spray wax as opposed to sealant...a week or so isn't at all worth it. Dang. Was hoping maybe it would still be tempting to have someone else do my dirty work.
 

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What exactly is his package description for this $100 and 3-3.5 hours of work? Have you asked or do you know if he's insured and does he have a DBA or business license?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What exactly is his package description for this $100 and 3-3.5 hours of work? Have you asked or do you know if he's insured and does he have a DBA or business license?
All information I could get upon further inquiry. Since I can't get it done regardless until my car repairs on December 12th, it's on hold. We have 4 detailers within 30 minutes of me so there is 3 more I could look into if I don't do it myself.
 

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Here is what you need.


Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: clay lubricant, optimum rinseless wash, no rinse car wash, optimum detailing products
Follow the directions for a rinseless wash. Mix a bucket in your house and carry it to the car and rinseless wash it. Dry the car, then with a regular spray bottle wet a panel at a time, then...

Reload Spray Sealant, spray paint sealant, spray wax, CQuartz Reload Yes a different product, this you don't need lots of water after use.
Dry as normal. That is it.

For the ONR use Optimum Big Red Wash Sponge to wash it.
Use a 5 gallon bucket with three gallons of water and the amount of ONR it calls for I think 1.5 oz.

get a grit guard The Grit Guard, grit guard insert, bucket grate, car wash bucket grid,

And a gamma seal lid https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...pj_60_R50O5syRHbB4WGbS_xPy5HrARaiLRoC12zw_wcB

You can get a couple washes from one solution mix, out the lid on it, keep the sponge in the bucket and you will be ready to wash anytime.
As a fellow detailer, I also agree with the following products. In regards to using CQuartz, either HydrO2 or Reload would suffice. I really like these products because of their ability to shed dirt easily. Only thing I would change is instead of using ONR, look up the new EchO2 by Carpro, just another variant to all the different waterless washes out there, just specifically designed for coated vehicles, but still works just as well on uncoated surfaces.
 
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