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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My daily driven 2013 ST1 has more than 42K miles, and the OEM shocks were getting tired. It was clearly time for new dampers.

This thread will document the installation and before/after results of installing the Mountune ClubSport suspension, which comprises pre-assembled Mountune Sport springs on Bilstein B8 front struts (new Ford strut bearing, top hat, bottom spring isolator and pinch bolt); and rear springs/struts.

We have an increasing number of suspension choices. My car is daily driven and I still work rallies, so I needed to retain as much ride height as practicable and didn't want to go too stiff. My choices settled down to FRPP springs with Bilstein B8s; Bilstein B14 coilovers, and this setup. I thought the B14s would be the best choice, but I didn't see myself realistically fussing with suspension height changes several times a year. Thanks to a Mountune Easter sale via an email invite (I've bought other stuff from them before), the ClubSport kit became less expensive than the FRPP springs and B8s, so I pulled the trigger.

Immediate Results:

Height
"Before"... Front fender lip height (on snow tires) = 25 3/4". Rear fender lip height = 26 3/4".
"After" some 15 miles of driving on a mix of smooth and bumpy roads: Front = 25 3/4" and rear 26 1/4".
"After" ~800 miles of mostly highway driving during the past week, no change in ride height.

IOW, no change at the front and 1/2" drop at the rear. To be fair, based on photos I have of the car from when it was new, it does appear that the front had settled down some over the past three years. Others with stock suspensions for example report here that they can drive right up on Rhino ramps, and I always needed to put a 1/2" board in front of the ramp to avoid scraping the underside of the bumper cover slightly.

The visual decrease in rake angle is noticeable.

I also expect this new suspension will settle down some over the coming weeks. I plan on taking off the snow tires next weekend so I'll take fresh measurements then and update the thread.

Driving Impressions - Updated!
I used to race rally cars so I knew that the stock dampers were tired. Road imperfections like pot hole repairs were causing some minor wheel hop and the nose was lifting quite a bit under acceleration for example. After the install, these imperfections were damped much better (shock absorbers BTW overseas are called "dampers" as the spring takes the shock of forced suspension movements and the damper damps the action of the spring...); the car didn't hop a little sideways in a curve over these and the nose no longer lifts on acceleration. Having said that, the car for a daily driver is quite comfortable on this kit.

Those of you looking to track your car will be happier with linear springs like those from Swift, but for a daily driver this combination is a nice incremental improvement over how I remembered the car driving when brand new -- and a big improvement over what it was before I changed things out.

Now having driven the car for more than month over smooth and broken pavement roads I can say that this setup is very much to my personal liking. Yes, the car is noticeably stiffer (the B8s have higher rates than the stock dampers and the Mountune springs are ~15% stiffer than stock according to Mountune) but even over broken pavement, the remains of frost heaves, and road construction, the car just feels much more planted than stock. Does it ride like a truck? No. Does it absorb road bumps like my wife's Fusion? No. If you live on really bad roads and bumps with the stock suspension bother you, probably the ST is not for you, regardless of the suspension you might fit to it.

UPDATE: Alignment
It's been a week since the install and I got the car aligned. Everything was in spec, except toe, which was -0.15 degrees. To be fair, I had suspected the car was toed out slightly even before this install, based on how the car was turning in. We set toe to +0.10 degrees and the car is much less darty now when getting on the brakes and doing initial turn ins.

Executive Summary
The install took about seven hours on my own. It would have taken closer to four if I wasn't taking pictures, if I didn't have a fitment issue with the Bilstein front dampers and if I had been able to find documentation for the rear spring orientation (see below for details). A second person is not required to do this job, but there is one point when installing the new front struts that a second person would have been handy. If your arms are not strong enough that you can't hold the new front strut assembly with one arm extended out in front of you for about two minutes, you'll want a second person.

Process Summary
Having lost an acquaintance to a car-fell-off-the-jacks incident many years ago, I am skittish about getting underneath cars and elected to do this install by doing the fronts first with the rear wheels still on the ground and the parking brake set, and then lowering the front and jacking up the rear to do that end. The rear lower control arm bolt and the front strut pinch bolt to loosen require you to push the breaker bar across the car laterally and have large break-free torque requirements; if you have bargain jack stands or the jack stands are not properly placed it's easier than you think to knock a car off the jack stands. Please be careful and if you have any hesitation get a good shop to do this work for you.

Preparation Work
Two weeks before you plan to do the work, remove the wheels and spray WD-40 on both ends of the front strut pinch bolts and the rear lower control arm outer bolts. Also spray the top of the front uprights where the bottom of the front strut is inserted and the two rear shock upper mounting nuts. Be careful in all cases not to get WD-40 on your brake discs.

Be sure you have all the tools you will need:

IMG_1460.jpg

  • Genric oil and anti-sieze compound.
  • Ball peen hammer; chisel optional but may be needed.
  • Three flat blade screw drivers of increasing size and length.
  • 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" ratchet drives and the extensions shown.
  • 1/4" Torx T-30 and 10mm sockets; 3/8" 13mm socket; 1/2" 15mm socket.
  • Breaker bar.
  • 8mm, 13mm and 15mm combination wrenches (15mm not shown).
  • Brass drift and magnetic cups.
  • "Pass through" 15mm socket, 5mm allen wrench and medium cresent wrench.
  • At least two sacrificial quarters (the results can be seen just below the ball peen hammer to the left of the old pinch bolt).
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (not shown).
  • BraKleen (not shown) in case you get schmutz on the rotors.
Torque Specs

The front strut pinch bolts get torqued to 80Nm and then turned 180 degrees more. Scary. The front strut top hat bolts get torqued to 35Nm and the stabilizer nut on the strut tang gets torqued to 2Nm.

The rear lower shock bolt and the outer lower trailing arm bolt both get torqued to 115Nm. The rear upper shock nuts get torqued to 25Nm. The rear lower trailing arm inner bolt gets torqued to 48Nm. I did not loosen this bolt but if you choose to do the same you must be careful not to over-rotate the lower arm when removing/replacing the rear spring, else you risk tearing the bushing. The manual says to loosen it BTW.

***Big Cautionary Note***
The printed directions from Mountune were... incomplete at best. Less than obvious was a note that the bolt at the top of the front strut holding the whole assembly together needs to be torqued to the Mountune-provided spec. Huh? I thought these were preassembled? As it turned out, the nuts were not loose, but they weren't torqued to spec either. From the comments below, others have found Mountune did not torque these nuts properly either. I have some cutout sockets specifically for cases like this where I need to use a standard torque wrench and need to retain the shaft. The nuts wound up getting turned ~3/4 of a turn to get to spec. If you don't have these sockets you'll need to get a shop to do this for you, else you risk the assembly coming loose over time. To tighten that nut you can remove the strut assembly from the car or you can remove/relocate the top strut-to-strut lateral brace to get access to the strut top bolt while the strut is still in the car (thanks @Focus McJokus for the tip!). It's a pain either way so best to torque the strut top nut before you install the strut assembly in the car. I do not include directions for this here because it requires special sockets; you might need to take the Mountune strut to the store to ensure whatever socket you are going to use clears the top hat and allows you access to keep the shaft from turning. The other issue with Mountune's directions involved the rear spring orientation, but I'll get to that later.


Removing The Front Struts:
Open the hood and pop off the interior vent covers by pulling up on the rear lip and pushing the cover to the front of the car.

Use the 1/4" 10mm socket and the 1/4" T-30 Torx to remove the bottom windshield facia retaining bolts and set aside in a magnetic cup or elsewhere safe:

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Now you can peel up the facia enough to get the 13mm combination wrench on the front two top hat mounting bolts; use the 3/8" 13mm socket to access the rear top hat mounting bolt through the vent hole. Don't remove the bolts, just break them free and loosen them ~ 2 full turns so that we have a little more free play to move the strut later:

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Now you can put the front of the car up on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Here's where I like to place the front jack stands under the front subframe:

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Unplug the wheel speed sensor on the hub (no pic): Use your fingernail to press in the release tang and then you can pull the connector free. Use the 8mm combination wrench to remove the brake line retaining bolt and then use the 15mm pass-through socket wrench and the 5mm allen wrench (anchored by the combination wrench) to remove the sway bar upper end link mount:

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Put some fresh WD-40 on the upright where the strut is inserted, and get the bad-boy 1/2" breaker bar with the 15mm socket out and loosen the pinch bolt; once loose you can use a 1/2" ratchet wrench to remove the bolt entirely:

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Use a wire brush to clean up the threads on the old pinch bolts, blow out the pinch bolt hole and feel free to take a bio break to let the WD-40 have some extra time to do its magic. I'll see you when you get back on the next post...
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Front Struts Continued

Take the cleaned up old strut pinch bolt and thread it in from the other side of the upright. Take one of your quarters and, while holding the quarter in the slot continue to tighten the pinch bolt until snug. Tighten two full turns more and then stop; that should be enough to spread the upright enough that the shock is now actually loose (a little; just enough to get it out with some help.) Note that the quarter will deform, and if you over-tighten it you can punch a hole in the quarter!

This photo shows the new shock getting installed, but is the best shot I have showing the quarter-pinch bolt trick:

IMG_1456.jpg

The other thing to note in the photo above is that there is a tang on the backside of the strut that locates in the slot in the upright. When you are installing the new strut be sure to rotate it to make sure this aligns properly, else the strut won't go all the way in.

If you rock the upright inwards, you'll hear a soft, but satisfying clunk and you'll see the old strut move a little. At this point you can start to pry out the strut using ever-increasing-thicknesses of flat-blade screwdrivers (not the vodka/orange juice kind; those come later!):

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Once you have the strut most of the way out, you'll be a little stuck because at this point the lower control arm bushings are actually pressing up. You'll need to use the BFI Method (Brute Force and Ignorance) to press the upright down enough that you can wedge a screwdriver in the opening. Note that if you get too brutish and go down too far, you can tear the brake line and/or over-extend a half shaft, effectively disassembling it. So, be careful!

Once you get the screwdriver in you can just maneuver it to pop the strut laterally out of the upright. That you loosened the upper mounting bolts earlier makes this part easier:

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Yeah baby!:

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Now all that needs to be done is to remove the outermost and rearmost strut upper mounting bolts from above. Then, either on a stool or on your knees, support the strut with one arm and remove the remaining strut upper mounting bolt with the other (this requires some arm strength) and then remove the old strut being careful not to damage the brake line, wheel speed sensor wire, etc.

Leave the old pinch bolt screwed in the wrong way against the quarter, put the old strut assembly aside, and clean out the inside of the upright where it binds on the strut. After it's clean, apply a thin coat of anti-seize, and then go get a fresh set of clean gloves and go fetch the shiny new pre-assemble Mountune front strut.

The top hats have two flat sides and one curved side. The curved side faces inward on the car. After you torque the top nut, rotate the top hat appropriately. You can rotate the strut on the car too if you wish.

IMG_1443.jpg

Place the new strut in position and thread at least one of the strut upper bolts into the top hat. Like the final removal step, this part requires some arm strength and coordination and will be a lot easier with two people. Once you've got the strut hanging, thread the other two strut upper mounting bolts in place. Double confirm you put the curved side oriented inwards then tighten the strut upper bolts not quite finger tight so we have a little fore-aft play to make it easier to get the strut into the upright.

Big Problem Of The Day
Try as I might, I couldn't get the new front strut to seat all the way into the upright. I had it aligned properly, and it was well-lubed too, but it just wouldn't go in that last 1/2" or so.

I took out a micrometer and measured the diameters of the old and new struts, and found the new strut was about a spark plug gap greater in diameter. I also noticed some of the paint had started chipping as part of the insert operation. So I popped the strut out of the upright, cleaned the upright inner and applied fresh anti-seize, then scraped the paint off the part of the strut that would be inside the upright, and sure enough it went right in. I did NOT want to use a chisel to spread the upright more than that which was done by the quarter, because from others' posts this can cause the new pinch bolt not to line up and become cross threaded, requiring a new upright. It's not pretty, but it works and with all the anti-seize I was not concerned about rust.

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The final 1/8" insertion needed a little help, so I jacked up the suspension with a floor jack, and using the brass drift and the ball peen hammer, I tapped the side of the upright and the strut slid into position with the removal pry tang firmly up against the top of the upright.

IMG_1457.jpg

After that, then all that needs to be done is to remove the old pinch bolt and the quarter, insert and torque the new pinch bolt, reattach the sway bar upper mount, the wheel speed sensor wire and the brake line.

Check that there is no anti-seize or WD-40 on the brake disc and you can put the wheels back on and lower the car. Reassemble the fascia up top, put the vent covers back on and get ready to tackle the rears!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Rear Springs and Shocks

The rears are much, much easier than the fronts. No components are really heavy and there are only two bolts and three nuts to deal with.

The second issue I had with the Mountune documentation was that there was no guidance as to which way up the rear springs should be fitted. In the event I choose to put the tighter winds up at the top, because that end fit better in the upper spring rubber than the more open end.

So here's what's what:

After jacking up the rear and placing it on jack stands, remove the wheels.

Use a breaker bar and a 15mm socket to loosen the lower lateral link outer bolt (the link that has a cup to hold the bottom of the spring).

Place the floor jack underneath the lower lateral link, and support the bottom of the lateral link. Do not compress the suspension; just support it.

Note that you should do one side at a time, so that the blades and sway bar will keep the suspension from drooping unnecessarily.

Use a ratchet wrench and the 15mm socket to remove the lower lateral link outer bolt, then lower the jack an inch. The link should follow. If the link gets hung up, just tap the upright with the brass drift using the ball peen hammer and it will pop down. You can now fully lower and remove the floor jack. Then press the link downward just enough to remove the spring (move the top of the spring out first) and it should look like this:

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With the spring out of the way, you have enough room to get a breaker bar and 15mm socket on the lower shock bolt. Break it free and then using a ratchet wrench remove the lower shock bolt.

Clean up the threads on both bolts; we will be reusing them.

Next, pry out the upper spring rubber from the subframe and clean the lower spring rubber in the lower lateral link. I was surprised that there was so much dirt inside the lower lateral link's spring rubber. You can use a shop rag to loosen all the caked in dirt and move it around so it falls out the drain holes.

Next, using the 1/2" 13mm deep-well socket remove the two bolts holding the top of the shock in place and remove the shock.

We need to remove the dust boot and bump stop from the old shock and reuse them on the new shock. To do so, use a 13mm combo wrench and the crescent wrench like so:

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When it's all apart it will look the photo below. Leave the white plastic cage on the old shock, and be sure to use the new Bilstein top nut when reassembling; it's a Nylock nut (nice) while the Ford nut is plain.

IMG_1466.jpg

Take the new now-reassembled damper back to the car, and install it first on the upper mount by threading the two nuts on a few threads, but no further -- we want the damper to be able to move up and down a bunch for the moment. Next, take the lower damper mounting bolt, feed it through the bottom damper hole and then thread it into the upright. Note! It is very easy to cross thread this bolt if you are not careful. So hold/jiggle the damper and thread the lower shock bolt in a few threads by hand until you have convinced yourself that it's not cross threaded. Then you can use a ratchet wrench to tighten the upper mount nuts, and then torque the lower shock bolt to spec.

With the shock in place we now need to deal with the new spring...

Note the end of the spring which will bind first (more tightly wound coils), and fit the upper spring perch rubber onto the spring:

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You'll note the rubber is notched; this should up against the spring coil end.

Now, when you put the new spring into place, ensure that the lower coil end is similarly located against the cutout in the bottom spring rubber.

At this point now that you've put the new spring in place, you are ready to reattach the lower lateral link.

To do so, position the floor jack underneath the lower lateral link and jack up SLOWLY. As you get closer, you'll need to move the lateral link either fore or aft to align it with the upright. This can be a little tricky; others on the forums have posted that the lower lateral link rotates, get cocked and it can't be inserted into the upright. My experience was that if the jack is placed properly, and the lateral link guided by hand, it just slides right in.

The real tricky bit is lining up the bolt holes in the upright with the hole in the lower lateral link. My solution is to use a drift or a screwdriver to move the lateral link to line up the holes. Once done so, the bolt should thread readily.

Torque this bolt after jacking up the suspension to ride height. If you don't so so, the bushing will have a twist in it at ride height, which can cause a tear in the bushing as the suspension is compressed further over bumps. Check that there is no junk on the rotors (clean them with BraKleen if needed) and bolt up the wheels.

Lower the car, and go for a careful drive to confirm you didn't miss anything. If there are no clunks, rattles or other suspect noises, have fun and enjoy!

Hope that helps,
Mark

P.S. Here are both front and rears fully installed:

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And here's a side shot showing the ride height and reduced rake angle:

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P.S.S. If you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to quote but try to edit out all the photos except the one or two necessary. Thanks!
 

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Seriously awesome write up! Really appreciate you taking the time to document things so thoroughly! I will be bookmarking this for when I decide to pull the trigger on the Clubsport kit.
 

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I also appreciate you taking the time to do this mark. I had been contemplating what suspension to do was in the final stages of choosing the mountune. This pushed me over the edge I pulled the trigger. Glad to have this as a resource as I go about installing them.

If anyone plans to pick these up, you can get them for 855$ until the middle of the month with the discount code gomountune. Pretty sweet deal
 

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Great write up; a couple of things that make this a bit easier (really one thing that solves one of your problems and makes getting the struts out easier). Using your quarter trick to spread the lower front pinch mount open a bit more will make inserting the new strut easy. Care needs to be taken though as some have spread it open too far and then have a hard time getting the pinch bolt back in. Also, if the pinch mount is open a bit more to begin with there is no need to pry to strut up and out of the seat; just push the control arm down using your foot on the hub and the strut pops right out. I have the Eibach Pro Kit and B8's and my ride height was a little higher than I liked at first; after several hundred miles of driving I got the advertised ride height.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Right on Mark. Thanks for taking the time to document this!

I had similar with Koni struts up front. The paint they use is quite thick!
Thanks!

The Ford paint on the struts is super thin and didn't chip at all. I was surprised not only how thick the Bilstein paint was but how easily it chipped right off. I wonder if Bilstein paints the tubes by dipping them, or spraying them vertically so the paint collects on the bottom. Dunno, but there is a thorough coating of anti-sieze there so I'm not worried about rust.

FWIW I've had that bottle of anti-sieze for more than 15 years, and I've taken apart exhaust system slip joints that had been together for five or more years with that stuff applied no problem.

All the best,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@LMStone510

how was the alignment afterwards? or are you waiting a bit to check it?
I'm waiting a bit to check it, and honestly looking for an alignment shop I can trust as the good guy I knew at a local VIP has moved on.

All the best,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@LMStone510

how was the alignment afterwards? or are you waiting a bit to check it?
Got an alignment yesterday. Only the toe was off (slight toe out), but based on how the car was handling I believe it was toed out before this install.

I updated the first post accordingly. I'll be putting a few hundred miles on the car before the weekend is done, so I'll take fresh ride height measurements and update the first post again with that info too.

All the best,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Great write up; a couple of things that make this a bit easier (really one thing that solves one of your problems and makes getting the struts out easier). Using your quarter trick to spread the lower front pinch mount open a bit more will make inserting the new strut easy. Care needs to be taken though as some have spread it open too far and then have a hard time getting the pinch bolt back in. Also, if the pinch mount is open a bit more to begin with there is no need to pry to strut up and out of the seat; just push the control arm down using your foot on the hub and the strut pops right out. I have the Eibach Pro Kit and B8's and my ride height was a little higher than I liked at first; after several hundred miles of driving I got the advertised ride height.
FWIW I holed a quarter trying to spread the upright "just a little bit more" to accomplish what you suggested. I could have used some scrap steel instead of the quarter, but elected to scrape the paint off the B8s instead once I measured them.

I also didn't want to extend the upright downward any more that was absolutely necessary as I had a bad experience once with popping a driveshaft apart doing that. And I didn't want to risk twist-tearing the lower control arm bushings either.

I'm just super (overly) careful the first few times I do something!

Thanks for the tips!

All the best,
Mark
 

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FWIW I holed a quarter trying to spread the upright "just a little bit more" to accomplish what you suggested. I could have used some scrap steel instead of the quarter, but elected to scrape the paint off the B8s instead once I measured them.

I also didn't want to extend the upright downward any more that was absolutely necessary as I had a bad experience once with popping a driveshaft apart doing that. And I didn't want to risk twist-tearing the lower control arm bushings either.

I'm just super (overly) careful the first few times I do something!

Thanks for the tips!

All the best,
Mark
I could see how a quarter might not be the best choice; I used a small flat pry bar to run the bolt up against. Never thought about axle shaft or bushing damage...I just pretty much go head first into things and sort them out later!
 

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Big Cautionary Note
The printed directions from Mountune were... incomplete at best. Less than obvious was a note that the bolt at the top of the front strut holding the whole assembly together needs to be torqued to the Mountune-provided spec. Huh? I thought these were preassembled? As it turned out, the nuts were not loose, but they weren't torqued to spec either. I have some cutout sockets specifically for cases like this where I need to use a standard torque wrench and need to retain the shaft. The nuts wound up getting turned ~3/4 of a turn to get to spec. If you don't have these sockets you'll need to get a shop to do this for you, else you risk the assembly coming loose over time. And the only way to tighten that nut is to remove the strut assembly from the car. I do not include directions for this here because it requires special sockets; you might need to take the Mountune strut to the store to ensure whatever socket you are going to use clears the top hat and allows you access to keep the shaft from turning. The other issue with Mountune's directions involved the rear spring orientation, but I'll get to that later.
BLUF: You do not need to remove entire strut from car to tighten the top nut, it can be done by removing the strut brace under the cowling while the car is still all put together and all 4 wheels on the ground.


I just did this install 3 weeks ago as well. Truly smart move using a quarter to help spread the lower mount for the front struts... I used a piece of scrap metal I had laying around and it twisted after the old strut was out and before the new one went in and managed to block the new one from dropping, only a 10 min issue, but frustrating nonetheless... anyway, great idea with the quarter.

On to the more important issue of tightening the strut piston bolt that holds the entire assembly together. I called Mountune and they told me that the bolt was torqued to spec at mountune so I just went ahead and installed it... BIG MISAKE! turns out that the pax side was close but the driver side was a full 1.5 rotations loose. I didn't notice this until I drove it for the first time and it made a lot of noise! very frustrating, thinking I would have to remove the entire strut as you state in your writeup but I found that you CAN tighten this bolt without removing the entire strut!!!

I got home early from work yesterday to tackle the project once I narrowed the sound down to the top hat being loose. I began by removing the cowling as you state in your writeup and then realized that if I took the three bolts out of the top of the strut and the one bolt attaching the windshield wiper motor to the front strut brace along with two bolts in the middle of the brace, the entire brace can be removed and you now have access to top of the strut piston. I have a wrench similar to yours (open thru the drive) so I was able to tighten it still on the car (Thank goodness because my wife was not a happy camper that I was going to be out there for the better part of the evening taking my car back apart!) Anyway, the driver side was 1.5 rotations too loose and the pax side was a good 1/3 to 1/2 loose. got it all tightened up, brace and cowling back on, entire correction only took 30 minutes rather than 3+ hours and I never had to life my car off the ground!
 

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Im really surprised and somewhat disappointed that Mountune would ship these kits out without the top nut being properly torqued.
 
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