Ford Focus ST Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've got an ST1 and want to toss in an amp and a sub. I'm keeping the stock head unit for the time being and was curious if I could just jack into the rear speaker wire with a line out converter? I've been out of car audio for probably 15 years now, so a lot has changed since I use to mess with it. If there is a better option then the line out converter, please advise. I'm not trying to drop big cash nor have competition sound. Just want some added "bump in the trunk". I've got an amp and speaker laying around needing a home...if they still work...lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
yes, you can just get the signal for the sub amp from tapping into either the rear or front speakers. this can be done with an amps high level inputs (most have this option) or you can use a standard LOC, or for the best sound, you can use a high end LOC with bass reforestation like an AudioControl LC2i
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
So I've got an ST1 and want to toss in an amp and a sub. I'm keeping the stock head unit for the time being and was curious if I could just jack into the rear speaker wire with a line out converter? I've been out of car audio for probably 15 years now, so a lot has changed since I use to mess with it. If there is a better option then the line out converter, please advise. I'm not trying to drop big cash nor have competition sound. Just want some added "bump in the trunk". I've got an amp and speaker laying around needing a home...if they still work...lol.
Hey man, did you get this figured out? If so, curious to see what you ended up doing. I'm working on this right now and plan to do a write-up when I get it finished.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey man, did you get this figured out? If so, curious to see what you ended up doing. I'm working on this right now and plan to do a write-up when I get it finished.
So I ended up getting an LC7i. I decided I wanted to upgrade my door speakers as well. I've got the LC7i installed and the door speakers with amp. Let me tell you, it was a "fun" job to say the least. It took me all total about 12 hours to install all of it. I cut the speaker wires from the back of the plug that goes into the stock head unit. I ran new wires to the LC7i per the instructions from the plug side and then with the wires coming from the door speakers I ran new wire to the amp off them. Then just run RCA' from the LC7i to the amp. This allowed me to use the stock speaker wire as I don't have the skill or the patience to figure out how the F to run wire to/through these doors. Running the power cord to the amp was a PIA as well, however now that I've done it once, it shouldn't be to bad when I install my sub amp. I spliced my remote wire into a wire on the harness that's on the bottom of the driver seat, amp is installed under my driver seat. I have some static that comes out of my passenger front speaker when I hit the brake or use my left blinker. Cant hear it if the volume is above 3. I think it has to do with my remote wire, however haven't tracked it down as it doesn't bother me to much. The tuning was quiet a process and took me a few days to get it sounding good. It needs some fine tweaking, however it sounds much better then the stock stuff. I'm just running a SSL EV 4.400 and some low buck Rockford Fosgate 6.5" in the door. When you do yours if you have any questions let me know, Ill try to help out if I can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
So I ended up getting an LC7i. I decided I wanted to upgrade my door speakers as well. I've got the LC7i installed and the door speakers with amp. Let me tell you, it was a "fun" job to say the least. It took me all total about 12 hours to install all of it. I cut the speaker wires from the back of the plug that goes into the stock head unit. I ran new wires to the LC7i per the instructions from the plug side and then with the wires coming from the door speakers I ran new wire to the amp off them. Then just run RCA' from the LC7i to the amp. This allowed me to use the stock speaker wire as I don't have the skill or the patience to figure out how the F to run wire to/through these doors. Running the power cord to the amp was a PIA as well, however now that I've done it once, it shouldn't be to bad when I install my sub amp. I spliced my remote wire into a wire on the harness that's on the bottom of the driver seat, amp is installed under my driver seat. I have some static that comes out of my passenger front speaker when I hit the brake or use my left blinker. Cant hear it if the volume is above 3. I think it has to do with my remote wire, however haven't tracked it down as it doesn't bother me to much. The tuning was quiet a process and took me a few days to get it sounding good. It needs some fine tweaking, however it sounds much better then the stock stuff. I'm just running a SSL EV 4.400 and some low buck Rockford Fosgate 6.5" in the door. When you do yours if you have any questions let me know, Ill try to help out if I can.
Thanks man. I'm having a crazy work week and probably won't be able to finish mine up until next week at the earliest. I have an LC2i, a 4-C amp for my speakers, and a 2-C amp for a JL audio 12" w3. Not sure if I should have gotten an LC7i, though I may be able to just get some RCA splitters and an extra set of RCA cables and make it work. We will have to see. I've wired all but the 4-C amp at this point, though I will need to go back in and split into the back speakers to get them powered by my 4-C amp. This has been a serious undertaking for sure. Definitely didn't know what I got myself into when I started haha. Hopefully it works out.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,028 Posts
i have like 8-15 videos on integrating stock stereo stuff.
www.youtube.com/jasongeorgievski

So I've got an ST1 and want to toss in an amp and a sub. I'm keeping the stock head unit for the time being and was curious if I could just jack into the rear speaker wire with a line out converter? I've been out of car audio for probably 15 years now, so a lot has changed since I use to mess with it. If there is a better option then the line out converter, please advise. I'm not trying to drop big cash nor have competition sound. Just want some added "bump in the trunk". I've got an amp and speaker laying around needing a home...if they still work...lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks man. I'm having a crazy work week and probably won't be able to finish mine up until next week at the earliest. I have an LC2i, a 4-C amp for my speakers, and a 2-C amp for a JL audio 12" w3. Not sure if I should have gotten an LC7i, though I may be able to just get some RCA splitters and an extra set of RCA cables and make it work. We will have to see. I've wired all but the 4-C amp at this point, though I will need to go back in and split into the back speakers to get them powered by my 4-C amp. This has been a serious undertaking for sure. Definitely didn't know what I got myself into when I started haha. Hopefully it works out.
I believe the only thing you will lose with the LC2i is the fade function. I believe with that one since it only has one set for right and left, is all your speakers will be tied to whatever factory speaker wire you run to the LC2i. I.E., you run the front speaker wires to the LC2i, if you fade to the back you will lose all sound. This is if your going to use it to run the door speakers with an amp. Otherwise it wont matter and the speaker wire you run to the LC2i just serves as a trigger to sound to the sub...I think. This **** still confuses me...lol.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,028 Posts
My advice though, spend the couple extra dollars on the LC7i or the LCQ-1. watch my f150 amp install video. LCQ-1 is awesome.

Yes, and they were/are super helpful!!!! I just stumbled onto them when I was doing research for my install. Greatly appreciated!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Since we are on the topic, any mounting location ideas? My 4-C amp will fit under the floor in the top left section above the spare tire. My 2-C is too big to fit under the floor however, and I would prefer not to drill into the back seats. This guy was innovative: http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-electronics/19361-finished-up-sub-install-my-st3.html
but I have an st1 and I am pretty sure my car doesn't have that bolt, and it certainly doesn't have the cutout in the floor for the stock Sony sub. There is what looks like a knob to hold down the molding near where the bolt in the ST3 is, but it doesn't twist off. Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
just get an aftermarket headunit. save yourself a bunch of work.
As someone who just spent about 8 hours on a Saturday doing this..... It is not that much less of a headache at all. I told myself after doing this one im paying someone to do it next time lol. I went with the whole 9 yards though. AFtermarket Alpine INE-W960hdmi headunit, KTP-445A Alpine head unit power pack (basically an inline 4channel amp, which honestly is pretty frigging cool and works awesome), and then I did a RockFord Fosgate p300 loaded 12" enclosure with built in 300watt amp.

The biggest pain was actually wiring in the radio and axxess converter thing to retain SWC (which I still didnt get right but it works well enough for me) And then getting everything crammed in to the dash. Routing all the power wires and RCA's for the sub wasn't too bad. Getting the power wire pushed through the grommet in the firewall was though. Sucks having big gorilla hands for work like this. But I got it all done and love the end result. Another cool thing about that loaded enclosure is it has a quick disconnect for the power, remote and ground wires so if I ever want to take the box out because I need room it takes all of 30 seconds to remove. All in all very pleased with how everything turned out I just wouldn't do it again lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
@skizzo81 or anyone else with thoughts - I'm having an issue with my sub/amp and I've read mixed things. For context, I ended up getting an LC6i and I ran the signal from my front speakers to channel two and I have it summed (took the cover off and moved the jumpers). I have a 4 channel amp powering all doors and a mono for my sub. Chief complaint - I cannot get my sub to work. I'm running a set of RCAs from channel 3 to my mono amp. When I plug in the RCAs, the sub makes zero sound. When I unplug just the left one, it makes a little bit of sound, but not as much as it should. I've replaced the RCAs to no avail, same exact problem. I even tried another mono amp. Still nothing. I'm wondering, do I need to run an additional signal from my rear speakers to one of the speaker-level inputs to my LC6, is something out of phase (I confess, I'm not even sure if I fully understand what being "out of phase" means entirely, something about having pos inputs connected to neg by accident maybe), something else? Help would be much appreciated as I am way too deep now to pay anyone to fix it for me haha.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,635 Posts
@skizzo81 or anyone else with thoughts - I'm having an issue with my sub/amp and I've read mixed things. For context, I ended up getting an LC6i and I ran the signal from my front speakers to channel two and I have it summed (took the cover off and moved the jumpers). I have a 4 channel amp powering all doors and a mono for my sub. Chief complaint - I cannot get my sub to work. I'm running a set of RCAs from channel 3 to my mono amp. When I plug in the RCAs, the sub makes zero sound. When I unplug just the left one, it makes a little bit of sound, but not as much as it should. I've replaced the RCAs to no avail, same exact problem. I even tried another mono amp. Still nothing. I'm wondering, do I need to run an additional signal from my rear speakers to one of the speaker-level inputs to my LC6, is something out of phase (I confess, I'm not even sure if I fully understand what being "out of phase" means entirely, something about having pos inputs connected to neg by accident maybe), something else? Help would be much appreciated as I am way too deep now to pay anyone to fix it for me haha.
Typically in this case you would need to change the summing jumpers to "summed," Default is separate. Meaning, your single ch2 input, only goes to ch2 output. But you said you did that?
How about the automode jumper? Enabled or disabled? It should be enabled in your case. With it enabled, a ch2 input will also be sent to ch3 output.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Typically in this case you would need to change the summing jumpers to "summed," Default is separate. Meaning, your single ch2 input, only goes to ch2 output. But you said you did that?
How about the automode jumper? Enabled or disabled? It should be enabled in your case. With it enabled, a ch2 input will also be sent to ch3 output.
I did move the jumpers so it would be in summed mode. I believe I enabled automode as well, as the channel 2 and channel 3 light comes on. I did just read this in the AutoControl manual however: "Sometimes in life (and car audio) we need more outputs than inputs. Therefore we have equipped your LC6i with AutoMode inputs that take the Channel 2 signal and automatically feeds it to the Channel 3 outputs, provided there is no signal present on the Channel 3 inputs. This means your LC6i will accept two input channels and give you four output channels. Or it can accept four input channels and give you six output channels." Meaning I need to splice into my back speakers as well because I am attempting to use all six channels (if I understand correctly).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
is something out of phase (I confess, I'm not even sure if I fully understand what being "out of phase" means entirely, something about having pos inputs connected to neg by accident maybe), something else?
the quick and dirty answer is that often people (incorrectly) use phase and polarity as synonyms.


polarity (or reverse polarity) is what you are talking about... if you have the positive wire going into the negative input of a processor or speaker and the negative wire going to the positive input, then that speaker is wired in reverse polarity to how it should be wired and that speaker will put out a perfect reversed copy of what it should be putting out.

phase is time alignment, if sound waves coming from two different sources arrive at your ears at the exact same time, then it is in phase and sounds like it should. if those sound waves arrive at slightly different times, then it is out of phase and may sound funny. if the phase is off by exactly 180*, then the sound waves will cancel each other out and it will be very quiet (think of noise canceling headphones)


now, if you wire every speaker in the car in reverse polarity, then all of the sound is still in phase (for simplicity sake, we will leave time alignment because of differences in different distances each speaker is from your ear) because even though all of the speakers are playing the exact reverse of what they should, they are all playing it together and you will never know. but if only one speaker is out of polarity, then you will have a phase issue and it will sound a little off, biggest difference is less bass than there should be. but if half of the speakers are out of polarity, then again you will have a perfect 180* out of phase issue and sound from one side of the car will work to cancel out the sound coming from the other side of the car.



to make matters even more confusing, different frequency's of sound travels at (slightly)different speeds (longer sound waves of low bass, travel slower than shorter sound waves of high frequencys) and sound takes time to get from the source to your ears, so it is possible that if you are not perfectly in in the middle of two speakers that are correctly wired in polarity, that some of the freqs might arrive at different times and be slightly out of phase and cancel each other out. this is where a good processor with time alignment/time delay is important. you can delay the sound from the speaker/s closest to you so that all the sound arrives at your ears at the exact same time making sure you don't get any phase problems due to those small differences.

here is a more in depth explanation.
Total Pro Audio | Phase or Polarity?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,028 Posts
@skizzo81 or anyone else with thoughts - I'm having an issue with my sub/amp and I've read mixed things. For context, I ended up getting an LC6i and I ran the signal from my front speakers to channel two and I have it summed (took the cover off and moved the jumpers). I have a 4 channel amp powering all doors and a mono for my sub. Chief complaint - I cannot get my sub to work. I'm running a set of RCAs from channel 3 to my mono amp. When I plug in the RCAs, the sub makes zero sound. When I unplug just the left one, it makes a little bit of sound, but not as much as it should. I've replaced the RCAs to no avail, same exact problem. I even tried another mono amp. Still nothing. I'm wondering, do I need to run an additional signal from my rear speakers to one of the speaker-level inputs to my LC6, is something out of phase (I confess, I'm not even sure if I fully understand what being "out of phase" means entirely, something about having pos inputs connected to neg by accident maybe), something else? Help would be much appreciated as I am way too deep now to pay anyone to fix it for me haha.
no point to summing the signals front and rear doors are both full range. the rear door output levels are a tad lower than the front though. you should be sending the front and rear doors both to the LC6i and take off summing.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top