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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looks like my Master cylinder is leaking... is this something that's covered under warranty?



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That would definitely be covered under the bumper to bumper warranty, it arguably may/should be cover under the drivetrain warranty.

I would also think it should a subtly be covered by any extended warranty.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That would definitely be covered under the bumper to bumper warranty, it arguably may/should be cover under the drivetrain warranty.

I would also think it should a subtly be covered by any extended warranty.

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I'll see what I can do. I just hit 61k which is very sad.

I'm gonna call my local dealers to see what they say and if I can't then well I guess I'll get a quote. The assembly is only 70 bucks from Edge Autosport.
 

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glad you have those floor mats! Brake fluid will wreck your carpet, and even those rubber floor mats.
 
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glad you have those floor mats! Brake fluid will wreck your carpet, and even those rubber floor mats.
hahah right! it honestly took me a few days to notice it, i thought I had tracked some nasty stuff in the car
 

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Got a quote from ford. Around 400 with parts.
 

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grave digging for some info... whatever happened with this? I have exact same **** happening to my 2014 with 90k miles. Looks like the fluid is coming through around the metal piston/plunger on the piece that goes through the firewall. Anybody have pics or info on replaceing this? any tips/tricks on installing new one? how to fill? I'm assuming there's a bleeding or burping procedure?...

20201209_092751.jpg 20201209_093207.jpg
 

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grave digging for some info... whatever happened with this? I have exact same **** happening to my 2014 with 90k miles. Looks like the fluid is coming through around the metal piston/plunger on the piece that goes through the firewall. Anybody have pics or info on replaceing this? any tips/tricks on installing new one? how to fill? I'm assuming there's a bleeding or burping procedure?...
Well, the clutch master pulls fluid from the Brake resi. It pulls right ABOVE the SEAM of the resi. This is important to note for the bleeding procedure.

The clutch master is sold as a "one pedal assembly" literally a whole new pedal and master. There is a difference between 13/14, and 15 plus. You can install a 15 plus on a 13/14, but you can't do it the other way. You will need brake fluid, because you will be bleeding the clutch system. One or two bottles. I'd rather be looking at it, then for it. Especially if you dont seat a connector right and spray fluid everywhere. Buy the fluid from the local auto parts store, and get an extra bottle, you can always just return it when you are done if you dont use it.

So, theres a couple ways to go about this.

First thing you do, is if you have a power seat, move it all the way to the rear, you need this clearance. You can't move it once you pull the battery, so just do it now and don't argue with me.

Pop the hood, pull the airbox. Pull your intake. Pull your battery out. Remove the 3 sides of the battery box.

You are going to bleed out the fluid in the clutch line. There is a plastic bleeder nipple to the left of the shifter tower. It's on a black plastic kinda "T" fitting right above where the slave cylinder is. Alltach some tuning to this and some sort of catch can, bottle, something. Loosen the bleeder nipple, it takes like 3 full turns out before it starts to flow. It's kinda annoying. Now hop in the car and manipulate the clutch pedal to push out all the fluid. A few pumps will do, you may have to pick up the pedal off the floor at the end. Now you can close the bleeder. Next move is to disconnect the clutch master feed line from the nipple on the brake reservoir. Dont break this nipple off, lol. Then you need to disconnect the clutch line off the master cylinder. I forget what style of fitting this is. It may be a push to connect, with a metal wire keeper. DO NOT LOSE THIS KEEPER!!! IT"S TINY AND WILL GO FLYING! Also pay attention to the clutch line ends, there are O-ring seals, and a whole rubber tip type seal. Keep track of these as you disconnect. The rubber tips like to remain in the female side of the connection.

Now you need to stretch, because you are going to do the pedal side of things. The pedal is secured by 4 nuts iirc that are on studs that protrude from the firewall, and has two sensors on it. Unplug each sensor, and remove any wire supports that attach to the pedal assembly. Now get the three nuts you can get to. One of the nuts, you can get to with like 2 or 3 extensions if you go on the left side of the steering column (PRO TIP!!). Ratcheting wrenches work well for the other three.

BE CAREFUL WITH THE PEDAL! It has helper springs in it, and will pinch the **** out of you with quite a bit of force. You can opt to pull the clutch helper spring out now, which can save you from some pain, you compress it and it pops out. You want to get the assembly off the studs, depress the pedal, and rotate it counterclockwise so the pedal is trying to hit your footwell light on the left. If the pedal switches get in the way, you can remove them, they are kinda weird though, dont break them. If you got the assembly out with the switches on it, now you can transfer them over to your new pedal assembly. On a workbench, like a human being.

Now slide in the new assembly, just reverse the process. Tighten it all down. Connect the switches and wiring. Hop into the engine bay, hook up the two lines to the master. MAKE SURE THE SEALING TIP is there! Also be careful with the little wire retainer clip. Really press those fittings in. They will click. Hook up your bleeder bottle, fill the brake resi to the top. Pump the pedal a few times to build pressure. Refill the resi. It's real easy to not keep enough fluid in the resi, and suck air. So just keep topping it off, and be patient. Having someone else there to work the clutch pedal is a big help, or even better is a Motive power bleeder. Build pressure, crack bleeder, close bleeder, top off fluid, build pressure, crack bleeder, top off fluid, keep going until there is no more air bubbles and it fills super firm with the bleeder closed.

Put the battery box back together. Wouldnt be a bad move to clean up the two ground wires that are under it. I highly suggest following this thread, I linked to a post with easy to see pics though, lol


Ok, put the battery stuff back in. Intake, Airbox, hook up the intake sensor. Start the car, try to drive it, lol


Heres the FSM if you want some ford parts diagrams and such.
 

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To add to what duece said, on my 14 i had to remove the knee airbag to get the pedal assembly out. That was a bastard of a job to loosen those nuts. Had to get crafty with a 1/4 flex head ratchet and JUST the correct amount of extensions to reach it from the firewall side.
 

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To add to what duece said, on my 14 i had to remove the knee airbag to get the pedal assembly out. That was a bastard of a job to loosen those nuts. Had to get crafty with a 1/4 flex head ratchet and JUST the correct amount of extensions to reach it from the firewall side.
On my 14, i did not. Either time I replaced it.

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@Duece McCracken, the use of a crowbar doesn't count as "not removing" it. Lol
 

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Hello team!
Mines just went out on only 33k miles, I own a 2018 st.
I have an appointment til Jan 6th

Was it covered by warranty?
And did you ask for a rental car, I'm wondering if a rental can be covered on the house too?
 

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Hello team!
Mines just went out on only 33k miles, I own a 2018 st.
I have an appointment til Jan 6th

Was it covered by warranty?
And did you ask for a rental car, I'm wondering if a rental can be covered on the house too?
Rental is covered by extended warranty, or if your dealer wants return business otherwise.
 

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Well, the clutch master pulls fluid from the Brake resi. It pulls right ABOVE the SEAM of the resi. This is important to note for the bleeding procedure.

The clutch master is sold as a "one pedal assembly" literally a whole new pedal and master. There is a difference between 13/14, and 15 plus. You can install a 15 plus on a 13/14, but you can't do it the other way. You will need brake fluid, because you will be bleeding the clutch system. One or two bottles. I'd rather be looking at it, then for it. Especially if you dont seat a connector right and spray fluid everywhere. Buy the fluid from the local auto parts store, and get an extra bottle, you can always just return it when you are done if you dont use it.

So, theres a couple ways to go about this.

First thing you do, is if you have a power seat, move it all the way to the rear, you need this clearance. You can't move it once you pull the battery, so just do it now and don't argue with me.

Pop the hood, pull the airbox. Pull your intake. Pull your battery out. Remove the 3 sides of the battery box.

You are going to bleed out the fluid in the clutch line. There is a plastic bleeder nipple to the left of the shifter tower. It's on a black plastic kinda "T" fitting right above where the slave cylinder is. Alltach some tuning to this and some sort of catch can, bottle, something. Loosen the bleeder nipple, it takes like 3 full turns out before it starts to flow. It's kinda annoying. Now hop in the car and manipulate the clutch pedal to push out all the fluid. A few pumps will do, you may have to pick up the pedal off the floor at the end. Now you can close the bleeder. Next move is to disconnect the clutch master feed line from the nipple on the brake reservoir. Dont break this nipple off, lol. Then you need to disconnect the clutch line off the master cylinder. I forget what style of fitting this is. It may be a push to connect, with a metal wire keeper. DO NOT LOSE THIS KEEPER!!! IT"S TINY AND WILL GO FLYING! Also pay attention to the clutch line ends, there are O-ring seals, and a whole rubber tip type seal. Keep track of these as you disconnect. The rubber tips like to remain in the female side of the connection.

Now you need to stretch, because you are going to do the pedal side of things. The pedal is secured by 4 nuts iirc that are on studs that protrude from the firewall, and has two sensors on it. Unplug each sensor, and remove any wire supports that attach to the pedal assembly. Now get the three nuts you can get to. One of the nuts, you can get to with like 2 or 3 extensions if you go on the left side of the steering column (PRO TIP!!). Ratcheting wrenches work well for the other three.

BE CAREFUL WITH THE PEDAL! It has helper springs in it, and will pinch the **** out of you with quite a bit of force. You can opt to pull the clutch helper spring out now, which can save you from some pain, you compress it and it pops out. You want to get the assembly off the studs, depress the pedal, and rotate it counterclockwise so the pedal is trying to hit your footwell light on the left. If the pedal switches get in the way, you can remove them, they are kinda weird though, dont break them. If you got the assembly out with the switches on it, now you can transfer them over to your new pedal assembly. On a workbench, like a human being.

Now slide in the new assembly, just reverse the process. Tighten it all down. Connect the switches and wiring. Hop into the engine bay, hook up the two lines to the master. MAKE SURE THE SEALING TIP is there! Also be careful with the little wire retainer clip. Really press those fittings in. They will click. Hook up your bleeder bottle, fill the brake resi to the top. Pump the pedal a few times to build pressure. Refill the resi. It's real easy to not keep enough fluid in the resi, and suck air. So just keep topping it off, and be patient. Having someone else there to work the clutch pedal is a big help, or even better is a Motive power bleeder. Build pressure, crack bleeder, close bleeder, top off fluid, build pressure, crack bleeder, top off fluid, keep going until there is no more air bubbles and it fills super firm with the bleeder closed.

Put the battery box back together. Wouldnt be a bad move to clean up the two ground wires that are under it. I highly suggest following this thread, I linked to a post with easy to see pics though, lol


Ok, put the battery stuff back in. Intake, Airbox, hook up the intake sensor. Start the car, try to drive it, lol


Heres the FSM if you want some ford parts diagrams and such.
"Also pay attention to the clutch line ends, there are O-ring seals, and a whole rubber tip type seal. Keep track of these as you disconnect. The rubber tips like to remain in the female side of the connection." Do you mind clarifying this for me? Will the o-ring seals be attached to the old master once the OLD pedal is assembly is removed from the vehicle? Then you can transition it to the new pedal assembly? I'm making the swap this week and want to be aware of this when I do so.
 
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